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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Zipster on June 13, 2014, 04:25:51 PM
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This bike is doing my head in!
When I bought my K1100 LT it had an ABS fault which turned out to be a brain fault.
I sourced and fitted a new ABS2 hydro unit / brain and fitted it - problem solved.
Then I noticed that my calipers weren't as well cared for as I'd like so I stripped, cleaned and de-rusted my front calipers and that was a great improvement. My rear caliper was sticking and the pins were seized in place and my only options were to bash the pins out or (the course of action I decided to take) source another rear caliper and swap them over.
So I sourced a preloved rear caliper which came with the appropriate rear ABS sensor so I could plug and play. I fitted new pads and pins and got the sensor cable fed through and connected up.
When I started the bike up I got an ABS fault and on reading the code it was the rear sensor fault (code 4).
I tried a few resets but no joy.
I figured I would clean up the original caliper and refit it as I knew it's ABS sensor worked. So new caliper stripped off the bike, old caliper refitted, ABS sensor connected and new pads and pins installed.
I turn on the bike and again it's an ABS fault code 4 - rear ABS sensor!
I know it's ok as it was working fine yesterday. I've tried numerous resets of the ABS system to no avail.
Any suggestions on how to get it working would be greatly appreciated!
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i had a rear sensor fault... i replaced the sensor cause the wire was whack... took 6 monts to reset... on the 301st try it cleared... so... dont give up...
j o
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Thanks Johnny
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Have you measured that the clearance gap is correct? Sounds obvious, but that was one problem on mine! I made some shims out of aluminium drinks cans and that fixed my problem: just 2 slices of ali had the gap restore!
Maybe its worth checking, doesn´t cost anything to try
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Thanks Mike. The gap looks ok and it's the old caliper with the old sensor but certainly I'll give it a bash in the morning. In any case the fault is coming up before the wheels turn - it's as soon as the power goes on that the fault shows.
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Anything here (http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/)helpful?
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Thanks Mike. The gap looks ok and it's the old caliper with the old sensor but certainly I'll give it a bash in the morning. In any case the fault is coming up before the wheels turn - it's as soon as the power goes on that the fault shows.
almost sounds like you have a shorted or broken wire to the rear sensor.
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Thanks Scott. How would I test that? Would a continuity test on the sensor work?
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Through the sensor you should measure 135 ohm +/- 20 ohm, also check for short to ground.
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Thanks Inge. Will see what I come up with.
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Yeah I'm getting readings close to 135 on the sensor so I'm thinking it may be the only other aspect that was disturbed and that's the female part of the connector attached to the loom. I'm going to do a visual inspection for any obvious damage.
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Are sensor fault readings absolute or relative to the output of the other sensor? It's probably not relevant but I figure it can't hurt to point this out anyway since it relates to ABS weirdness.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5252.msg32535#msg32535 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5252.msg32535#msg32535)
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ABS vooodooooo can be annoying when it rears it's head.
My system on my '95 was working perfectly well(or so I thought) for over a year, until....
Replaced the battery. Yep that's all I did was remove/install a battery. Then I had a front abs sensor fault, wouldn't clear.
I thought WTF could I mess up changing a battery.....that would affect an ABS sensor.
Long story shorter, I checked the sensor gaps and ended up adjusting the gap to correct the fault.
So, just sayin, anything is possible. You may want to double check the cleanliness of the multi-pin plug contacts at the controller, and make sure it is seated well. That one can be a real bugger to connect completely.
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So, just sayin, anything is possible.
So true. It could be as easy as loosening the caliper bolts, readjusting, and retightening the bolts.
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Yeah just tested the gap with a feeler gauge - 0.55 mm when it should be 0.60 - 0.65 mm. Going to loosen the caliper bolts and do the gap now.
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Ok gap set, ABS reset done and still ABS fault 4 showing. Now I haven't taken the bike for a run at all - it's done a couple of low speed turns outside the house but hasn't been out of 1st gear. I'll not get a chance to take it out until tomorrow but I'll give it a good blast and see if it sorts itself out.
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when I had a bad sensor I replaced it and cleared it twice rolled forward in garage but it kept error .next time I cleared it I rode it up the block 25 mph before applying brakes and then it was good. just a thought
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I've been out and ridden about 30 miles at speeds up to about 80 mph but no joy. I'm pretty well convinced that it's the connector on the loom that's my issue. I reckon the ABS sensor has never been disconnected and by removing it then reconnecting I haven't got a good connection. Any ideas how to improve my connection without doing a soldering job on it?
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Maybe clean with deoxit?
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I've never heard of that but I've just looked it up - pretty pricey for one small job but thanks for the suggestion.
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pretty pricey for one small job.
Only one connector at your bike? Treat every connector you find/need to disconnect......
it's called preventive maintance...............you need both cleaner and shield.
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I tend to treat every connector, every screw and every bolt with some form of anti seize but I have never had to use joint cleaner on electrical connections but I do take your point Inge with thanks.
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On another K forum this product is praised to a holy Level......it got to be go(o)d.
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http://www.k100-forum.com/t3268-which-deoxit#30776 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t3268-which-deoxit#30776)
Also examine the connector to ensure the contacts haven't been pushed through by the disconnect-reconnect action you took.
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I've had a good look at the connector and can see no damage but I'm not sure how to test it for continuity. It certainly seems to be my problem. I've used contact cleaner on the male and female connectors and I've checked the gap on the sensor. I can't get Deoxit before I go touring around Scotland next week so I'll have to make do with black tape over the lights until I get back.
Any suggestions on checking the connector and any ideas for a solution would be greatly appreciated.
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Good point about the connectors! I had a faulty connection on the block that comes from the fuel tank, the block itself was going in correctly, but was pushing the individual wires out from the back of the block: I just pushed each wire back in and alls well :2thumbup:
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at your local electronics store you shod find a product called electrical contact cleaner, on my 110k bike I cleaned all connectors then used dielectric grease to keep water out of connections ,note some of the high current connections had green growing ,these I used q tips or a pic carefully as to not spread connection. my 2c