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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: noppo on June 04, 2014, 10:18:16 AM
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For the life of me i can't find the plug. i have looked everywhere under the seat, but can't locate it. i took more time looking for it than i'd like to admit in public. But, i didn't see it. Need some hints if you can provide some. Where to look? Thanks.
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Try the search function :2thumbup:
try "abs1 reset" for a good description of the set up......
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A month or so I had an ABS reset issue as well. Review this thread. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5578.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5578.0)
There should be a three pin connector under the seat. You want the middle one. I tried it with just the wire but that didn't work. Once I bought the LED lamp from Radio Shack and tried it I had the ABS reset in just a few minutes.
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Found the plug. It was quite obscure. The ABS reset was a success. Took 5 mins once the plug was found. After the reset, the plug must have vibrated off as it's not there anymore.Is there a part number for the Diagnostic plug cap?? Let me know please. It should be butt cheap!
Thanks.
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Sorry. For what it's worth, i did check the parts fiche, but did not find it there. My search skills many need work though.
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I'd just wrap it in electrical/insulation tape, its pretty safe where it lives, it just needs a bit of cover to keep the dust out :2thumbup:
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Noppo, did you lose the plug cap or the entire plug?
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i lost the cap only. It must have came off because i apparently didn't put it on there tight enough after fixing the aberrant blinking.
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Noppo, can you shed some light on WHERE you found the ABS reset plug? I have looked and looked but still can't find it. And yes, I have read the procedure and looked under the seat and both sides.
Thanks
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Will take picture and post it. I had the abs light on, done the reset and it cleared it off. Was nice to remove the black electric tape from the annoying warning light.
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OK, I found the plug. On my 1995 K75 it was on the far right side of the seat near the front. I tried the procedure about 5 times to no avail. Removed blue plug, inserted wire into center hole, attached other wire end to ground, turned on ignition, held abs button down for 10 seconds (also tried 30 seconds). First few times I used the center wire of a coax cable (used with older tvs and vcrs) grounded to my main house ground. The second few times I did the same procedure with stranded copper cable. I cleaned the copper ground with sandpaper and clipped the wire to it with a metal clip to ensure a good connection.
What am I doing wrong? Is there confirmation of success without putting the seat back on and driving it? (The manual says it doesn't reset fully until you drive it over 2.5 mph).
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Nope - you gotta move both wheels. It may be possible to keep it on the center stand and move the back and then the front, but i have never attempted that. Shout back!
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... grounded to my main house ground.
I would think that ground is the bike frame.
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... grounded to my main house ground.
I would think that ground is the bike frame.
I tried that as well by grounding the wire to the frame (common ground). Removed the fake blue plug, inserted wire in center hole of 3, grounded to bike frame, pressed and held the ABS button while turning on the ignition (key) for 30 seconds. Then I put everything back together and drove the bike. Nothing changed. Both the lights still flash.
I tried it with and without the starter switch in the center (on but not running) position in addition to the keyed ignition on and that didn't work either.
When successful, does the ABS light turn off? Is moving the bike forwards a few feet enough to show if the procedure worked? It is a hassle to put the seat back on and drive it just to see if everything worked.
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I done it some time ago so it is not fresh in my memory. I think it worked when I keep the wire plugged in and drove it in the parking lot.
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Yep, when successful, the light goes out. That's the whole reason for doing all of it, but you will have to move / ride the bike 10 to 20 feet or so. The light went out on mine when the bike was moving. The distance is not as important as the movement of the wheels in the same direction for a short spin. Maybe you can do it with everything still apart and on the center stand by moving the wheels with a good spin on each one in a forward direction. Dunno!
But, if you got on it and rode it, it sounds like you did everything right. When i did mine this spring, i held everything for 45 seconds at least. Then rode it about 10 feet and the light went out.
If it's any consolation at this point for you, my Japanese mate with a '92 K1 tried resetting his for the past 2 years without moving it and the light stayed on for the past 2 years. He had tape over his light too. i kept telling him (only because people kept telling me) that one must get on it and ride it and if it's not a faulty unit or if the reset action was properly done, it will go out. He did the same process he has done for the past 2 years once again, and then rode it on the driveway to the street. His body language was such that anyone could tell he was ecstatic at the light going out. And i verified it just in case.
For you, either the process was not followed properly, your battery is dead enough to not let allow the process to work for you, or the ABS unit is bad. There may be other reasons. Those ABS units are like tanks, and it's is only a rare one that goes bad (IMHO), so something's up with either your process or the distance you move the bike, or your connections. Something.
Check your process as documented on this site by the K gurus, hold if for 50% longer than you did last time, and repeat it all several times, increasing the % each time if you must. If it's not a faulty unit, you will have success. Worst case, you may have to research other reset methods. For what it's worth, none of the K1 boys (in the K1 Club of Japan) over here have ever experienced a faulty ABS unit on their bike. They all swear by the reset process you are grueling through now. Check the wires to make sure you're getting a good connection all over. Change your ground location if you must.
i am a flaming and screaming advocate for the process, as you can tell.
DON'T GIVE UP. You're almost there.
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I agree with mopp, took me quit a few times to do it, gotten totally frustrated but it did work in the end.
Connect your ground to the battery directly.
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Can you do the fault code search using a LED bulb with a wire into plugs 1&3, like ABS2? :dunno2:
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There is joy in Whoville!
Yesterday, I attached the wire to the battery ground and while riding, I held the ABS button down for well over a minute. Nothing. I headed off to my local mechanic to address other issues and on the way, I remembered the wire was still attached. I pulled over and unplugged the wire from the center pin. The shop was closed when I got there, so I took the seat off, got the tool kit, and loosened the bolt at the battery holding the other end of the wire.
Later, I noticed both lights were out. Tested the ABS (rear brake only) and works fine. There are still some bugs as the lights come blinking on sometimes after I restart. I am thinking the battery may be getting weak. I have no explanation as to the exact process that worked since the lights didn't go out after one particular phase. I will try to find out why the lights intermittently come on still and try to repost.
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There is joy in Whoville!
The ABS Grinch ain't got nuttin!
Good to hear.
i have heard that having the engine running has no affect on the reset activity because it's entirely an electrical issue. Just reset the ABS pod and move the bike using the engine - that's pretty much the axiom the boys go by here.