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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: frankenduck on June 04, 2011, 11:25:49 AM

Title: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 04, 2011, 11:25:49 AM
K bike handlebars come in four basic shapes/styles:

Standard (a.k.a. "C" bars)These are the "middle of the road" handlebars between the leaned forward riding position of the S/RS handlebars and the upright riding position of the RT/LT handlebars. They give the rider a moderately upright riding poistion. These came on the basic Euro K75 and Euro K100 models as well as the Euro USA K75C.
S/RSThese handlebars sweep down and back and have a forward leaning riding position.  These are good if you like to ride turns aggressively as they let you get your weight in over the tank and "kiss your mirrors." There are some minor dimensional differences between the two and four valve models but they are essentially the same shapewise. These handlebars came on the K100RS(2 valve and 4 valve), K75S and K1100RS. The K1100RS handlebars have bar end mounts welded onto the ends of them.
RT/LTThese are the touring handlebars and give the rider a very upright riding position. In terms of their shape and dimensions they are the same for the K100RT, K100LT, K75RT and K1100LT. The K1100LT handlebars have bar end mounts welded onto the ends of them.
K1Like many styling things with the K1, these handlebars are unique to the K1. Shape-wise they are in between the C bars and S/RS bars but with the seat and rear set peg ergonomics they give the rider a leaned forward riding position similar to that of the S/RS handlebars.


The following table shows the approximate dimensions of each type of handlebars in inches. The tip to tip measurements are from the tip of the "usable" part of the handlebars and do not include bar ends or bar end mounts. The setback measurements are from the center of the handlebar mounts in the upper fork tree to the center of the tip.  Given the different shapes and angles of the various styles, comparing the measurements is, to some extent, an apples to oranges comparison, especially for the setback.

All of the handlebars are 22 mm in diameter. (about 0.866 inches)

TypeTip to tipSetback
Standard(C)25"7"
2 Valve S/RS23"3"
K1100RS24.5"2"
RT/LT27"10.5"
K127"7"


Handlebar part numbers:  The number stamped into the handlebars themselves generally is not the same part number found in the BMW parts catalog.  The best way to make sure of what you're buying is by getting pictures.


SWAPPING HANDLEBARS

Before going though the expense and effort of swapping handlebars or adding barbacks consider the following:

Change Your Riding Position:  This can take some effort and practice because chances are you never thought about your riding position, you just hopped on your bike and rode.  Due to this your current riding position may have ingrained some bad habits in your muscle memory. Dick Frantz of the BMWRT forum came up with some principles and techniques known as the Master Yoda Riding Position.  Though originally written up for riding a K1200RS it can be applied to any motorcycle.  I have attached a PDF of it to the bottom of this post.  Even if you're comfortable riding as things sit now (pun intended) it is still worth a read.

Experiment With Different Angles of Your Current Handlebars:  This is fairly easy to but best of all it's free.  You can change the angle of your handlebars by removing the center cover (dash pad) at the middle of the handlebars and loosening the 6mm handlebars clamps.  Experiment with different angles to find what works best for you.  Once you've found the best angle, retighten the handlebars clamps.  You can then adjust the angle of your clutch and throttle perches.

On the back (front really) of the clutch and throttle perches are 4mm Allen bolts that clamp the perch to the bar.  Loosen these to adjust the angle of each perch on the handlebar.  When you retighten them do not use he-man torque as that can break the clamp.


Control Cables and Brake Lines:  When swapping in a different style of handlebar or adding barbacks you may need to also install longer or shorter control cables (throttle, clutch and choke) as well as change the brake line coming from the master cylinder.  (The combination switches are not an issue as those have the same length wiring for all handlebars with any slack being taken up under the gas tank.)

On some swaps between S/RS and standard(C) bars you can avoid changing the brake line from the front master cylinder by loosening the banjo bolt and changing the angle at which the brake line comes out of the bottom of the master cylinder and then retightening the banjo bolt. (18 Nm, 13.3 ft-lb, 160 in-lb)

Swap Handlebars Without Disconnecting Master Cylinder: If you find that you don't need to replace the front master cylinder brake line then you can save yourself some work and a mess of brake line fluid by not removing that brake line. 

1) Unscrew the two 5mm Allen bolts that secure the center cover (dash pad) to the expose handlebars in the upper fork tree.

2) Remove the left combination switch by unscrewing the Philips machine screw near the bottom of it.  Use a good screwdriver as sometimes that screw is sticky and you don't want to strip the head. Then disconnect the choke and clutch cables.

3) Loosen the clutch perch clamp bolt. (see photo above)

4) Pull the clutch perch off of the left side of the handlebars.

5) Loosen the throttle perch clamp bolt.

6) Remove the 4 6mm bolts that hold the tops of the handlebar clamps onto their bases.

7) Pull the handlebars out of the throttle perch.

8.) Installation is the reverse.


Barbacks:  If you're not buying them from a BMW source then before purchasing them make sure they have thread holes in them for mounting your center cover (dash pad.)  Also make sure that they're for 22 mm handlebars. not 7/8".

My personal opinion and what works for me:  If you want to get rid of S/RS handlebars in favor of standard(C) bars then try the Master Yoda stuff or changing the handlebar angle first.  I've tried both C bars and barbacks on an RS bike and went back to the stock setup right away.  The stock bars are the way they are for a reason - to optimize your riding position for handling performance.

While we're on the topic of handlebars, go here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=586.0) for a recommendation on grip rubbers.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 04, 2011, 04:14:18 PM
I'm a rider, not a polisher.

You've been hangin' out too much with the chrome crowd over at Pashnit.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: carp on June 28, 2011, 12:08:27 AM
K75C bars seem a bit hard to come by at a reasonable price. Does someone make aftermarket bars close to k75C bars?
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 28, 2011, 09:12:28 AM
Quote from: carp on June 28, 2011, 12:08:27 AM
K75C bars seem a bit hard to come by at a reasonable price. Does someone make aftermarket bars close to k75C bars?

I've never heard of any but there must be something out there if you look hard enough. 

FYI:  Stock bars have a 22mm diameter.....
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: imoir on June 28, 2011, 05:08:38 PM
I couldn't get a match at Flanders.

Ended up buying new bars.  Ouch. :'(
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: happycat254 on August 14, 2011, 10:26:10 PM
I was looking at some barbacks on ebay which said they were for the K100 RT or K100 LT. Any reason they wouldn't work on a K100 RS?
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on August 14, 2011, 10:39:50 PM
Quote from: happycat254 on August 14, 2011, 10:26:10 PM
I was looking at some barbacks on ebay which said they were for the K100 RT or K100 LT. Any reason they wouldn't work on a K100 RS?

All of the bars are the same diameter with the same mounts.  HOWEVER, before purchasing make sure that they're tapped to hold the cap head bolts for the dashpad so you can move that back with the handlebars.  (I'm assuming you have a 2 valve K100RS.)
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: happycat254 on August 18, 2011, 09:29:17 PM
Thanks. The more I think about it the more i'm thinking about just changing the bars. Are they the same for different years. I just found a pair of 95 K75 bars for 29.00. Any reason they wouldn't work on an 85 K100?
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on August 18, 2011, 10:03:16 PM
They're all 22mm and pretty much interchangeable.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: jhurdle on October 08, 2011, 12:16:33 PM
Great summary.  I am a new owner of K75 standard with high (RT?) handlebars.  Looking to switch out to C type bars but they are difficult to find at a reasonable price.   22 mm third party options seem limited.  Has anybody tried Rizoma bars on a K75?  Any other options?  Thanks.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on October 08, 2011, 12:33:41 PM
Quote from: jhurdle on October 08, 2011, 12:16:33 PM
Great summary.  I am a new owner of K75 standard with high (RT?) handlebars.  Looking to switch out to C type bars but they are difficult to find at a reasonable price.   22 mm third party options seem limited.  Has anybody tried Rizoma bars on a K75?  Any other options?  Thanks.

FWIW I bought a rat bike K100 that had some Renthal 7/8" (22.2mm) handlebars on it.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: jhurdle on October 08, 2011, 01:03:10 PM
Tried some Daytona handlebars from Bikemaster (7/8 inch diameter).   I had trouble getting the switch assemblies on.  The portion of the switch assembly where the pinch bolt is seems to really want a 22 mm bar.   I was afraid to force it and risk breaking something.  Based on your experience with the K100 maybe I gave up too early?
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on October 08, 2011, 01:20:05 PM
Hard for to say on that.  I just removed the switch assemblies.  Didn't install them.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: kennybobby on November 03, 2011, 02:01:40 PM
Hey all you ocd pipe-layers,

7/8" = 22.23 mm, which is only 0.008" diameter (and 0.004" radius) larger than 22.0 mm.

What do you reckon is the tolerance on the tubing sizes?--sure seems like either 7/8 or 22  should work and be interchangeable since there is hardly a little curly RCH of a difference.

You can easily knock off  0.004 of cold hard steel with a file in about 2 minutes.

ocd kenny

p.s.  Thanks Franken for posting those bar and mounted bar pictures.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on November 08, 2011, 10:51:32 AM
Here's a link to a page with 22mm handlebars made for BMWs by Flanders:

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportHandlebarsBMW.html (http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportHandlebarsBMW.html)
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Lawrence on June 26, 2012, 12:20:42 PM
The photos at the top of this thread show K1100RS bars with a necked end, which I guess accepts a bar-end weight that has a collar on the bar side of the weight.  The BMW parts fiches I have seen do not show a OEM bar-end weight for the K1100, but there is one for the R1100RT, part # 32712313766.  Does this part also fit the K1100RS bar?  If not, are the K1100RS bar-end weights all aftermarket parts?

My 1985 K100RS has handlebars that are slightly tweeked.  I thought I could live it them, but they are bugging me more and more, so I'm shopping around for an alternative.  I can't foresee me being happy without a handlebar that has some end weights to quell the vibes inherent in the early K-series engines.

Ideas and insights greatly appreciated!  :yes
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 12:58:19 PM
All K1100RSs have bar ends from the factory.

14, 15, 16

(http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroImage.aspx?ImageFileName=\ETK_Grafik\dbvis5556525781485040243.bin&width=550&height=400)

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51713&catID=32&catname=Steering&bindName=Handlebar&bindCat=32_0791 (http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51713&catID=32&catname=Steering&bindName=Handlebar&bindCat=32_0791)
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Lawrence on June 26, 2012, 02:46:37 PM
The weight in this illustration looks very different.  Do all OEM weights fit with any OEM handlebar that have  necks and internal threads on their ends?
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 03:17:40 PM
No, even the K1100LT and K11100RS have different bar ends.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: billday on June 26, 2012, 04:38:36 PM
Quote from: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 03:17:40 PM
K11100RS

Never heard of that one. Pictures please!
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Inge K. on June 26, 2012, 04:46:11 PM
Quote from: billday on June 26, 2012, 04:38:36 PM
Quote from: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 03:17:40 PM
K11100RS

Never heard of that one. Pictures please!

It`s ridiculously fast.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 04:49:02 PM
Quote from: billday on June 26, 2012, 04:38:36 PM
Quote from: frankenduck on June 26, 2012, 03:17:40 PM
K11100RS

Never heard of that one. Pictures please!

The mileage on it really sucks.
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: johnny on December 23, 2015, 09:28:34 PM
ok... here you go...

1st attachment... c bars...

2nd attachment... rt + lt bars...

do your doo dillergence on the fische (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx)... especially if you want the heated grip part number... butts the sizes remain the same...

more later...

j o
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Batkinson on August 03, 2016, 04:22:15 PM
would someone share the torque requirements for the handlebar clamp bolts on 1985 K100 original mount ? thanks
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Filmcamera on August 03, 2016, 04:37:44 PM
According to Clymer the general spec for all 8mm bolts are 10 - 13.5 ft lbs

I hope that helps
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Batkinson on August 06, 2016, 09:28:36 AM
Thanks for the quick reply.

I think the correct spec of 22 -/+ 2 Nm is on page 258 of the repair manual, but was seeking validation before executing because I keep being given different values....thanks again for the information.

Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Filmcamera on August 06, 2016, 09:45:55 AM
you are right, I gave you the torque for the steering block to upper fork bridge bolts - sorry
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: Batkinson on August 08, 2016, 08:36:51 AM
Should have indicated I did not find the manual till after posting the orig question, but got the PDF of the BMW service manual a little after posting the question and believe that's the correct source with values. As I become more familiar with a couple of forum's contents I am finding more answers that validate other answers.

I had three different values given but in looking at the exploded parts diagram I think two of them misidentified the  handlebar clamp bolt's for other close bolts, and one of the tables I was sent had a matrix of thee values for torque by bolt size with the key in German.

I trust the manual I have found but have zero motorcycle mechanical experience and so will probably continue to validate my understanding of the procedures before I inadvertently screw something.

Thanks for the input....
Title: Re: K Bike Handlebars
Post by: twowheeledgator on May 03, 2019, 09:19:03 PM
I have a C with the lower bars and I do not like the riding position.  The bars are too low and feel too narrow.  I think I will start with some cheap risers/bar backs (Rox-style) and go from there.  I find it amusing how many people like the C bars over the taller bars.
The shortys just put too much pain in my neck and between my shoulders.