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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Motorhobo on October 26, 2013, 10:20:24 AM
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Smarter and more experienced people than me probably have had no problem getting that tiny little seal on behind the puck at the rear end of the transmission.
(http://www.vanalbert.com/IMAGES/DamagedClutchPushrodSeal.jpg)
Back in '09 before I set my 95 K75 out to pasture for a couple years, I had an oiled clutch due to a rear main seal leak. I fixed it but could not get the tiny seal in straight and it buckled a bit. This caused gear oil to creep up the shaft and get on the clutch disk. So when I did the spline lube last month I cleaned up the bell housing and clutch parts and ordered a new input shaft seal.
I should have ordered two right away because I dinged the new one up the first install attempt. Due to its tiny diameter it would just not seat straight and once it goes in crooked once, it's done for. So I ordered a yet another one at $18 a pop and another one as spare in case I screwed it up again. This time I put some thought into it and it went in straight with one good tap.
I don't know if it's easier to do this with the tranny installed. Mine was out. Either way, I think it's risky to try to tap it in without using the input shaft for alignment. Here's what I did with the tranny out as shown in the pic below:
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/InputShaftSealInstall.jpg)
(http://www.vanocular.com/K75/InputShaftSealInstall2.jpg)
I also wrapped a bit of blue tape around the shaft before sliding it through the bore in to prevent it from wiggling around.
If anybody knows of a better, easier way short of creating a custom tool or just being better at driving in seals than I am, feel free to share. I looked around pretty good before attempting it the 2nd time and got the tip for using the shaft for alignment from my buddy Mike. Maybe my method was overkill but those little buggers are expensive, not to mention it's an 1.5 freeway ride to get to the nearest dealer and just because it's a tiny seal doesn't mean they don't charge you $11 to ship it.
Van
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If anybody knows of a better, easier way short of creating a custom tool or just being better at driving in seals than I am, feel free to share.
Maybe these pictures from the Swedish BMW Club forum would give you some ideas, you need a lathe, tho.
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@Inge
Wow, that's impressive. Wish I could do that...but I can't. Is that what you use or do you just whack it in and somehow always get it to go in straight?
Van
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@Inge
Wow, that's impressive. Wish I could do that...but I can't. Is that what you use or do you just whack it in and somehow always get it to go in straight?
Van
When I resealed my trans (had it out anyways) I popped it in with a socket. There is a locating lip at the bottom, that will keep it straight. I also had the shaft out, so I could more easily pound it in.
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I'm going to replace this seal as part of my rebuild. How do I remove the seal?
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I pulled out with a curved pick, taking care not to let any bits fall into the roller bearings. It came out pretty easily but got destroyed on the way out...it's not reusable anyway so it doesn't matter if you tear it up. But someone else ,mentioned a small drywall anchor or something like that...seems like that would be better...anybody remember what that was all about?
With the pick I was also careful not to score the bore.
Van