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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: hoodun on September 20, 2013, 12:01:50 AM
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I just spent two hours trying to attach my transmission to the engine. It attaches easily without the clutch rod. The clutch rod goes in fine without the transmission. Is there a trick to this?
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1. Make sure the clutch is centered. This is not necessary if you didn't loosen the clutch.
2. Make sure the clutch rod is fully seated in the transmission. Loosen the clutch adjuster fully.
3. Make sure the transmission is not putting weight on the rod. Ideally, you should be using guide bolts on the transmission. At the very least, blocks or a jack should be used to keep it straight, as you slide it onto the splines. Once the spines are engaged, you are most of the way there.
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afaik:
the clutch rod needs to be placed in the gearbox before you mount the gearbox (only K75)
pls take care that you do not kill the "bitch" with the rod
otherwise youŽll have gear oil in the clutch
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Why did you have the transmission off?
If you replaced the clutch, make sure the clutch disk and/or clutch spring disk are not installed backwards.
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My least favourite part if a spline lube. I have struggled with mine also, but it eventually goes on.
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I pulled the transmission off to fix the grub screw issue.
I left the clutch as is. Maybe I should dig deeper and check the clutch? This is a new bike to me that I purchased with the shifter spinning around in circles - see my older thread. I can move the clutch up and down with a long screwdriver. It moves sort of easily... I tried centering it with no luck getting the tranny in. I think I need bolt guides to be successful at this.
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I pulled the transmission off to fix the grub screw issue.
I can move the clutch up and down with a long screwdriver. It moves sort of easily... I tried centering it with no luck getting the tranny in. I think I need bolt guides to be successful at this.
What exactly does that mean, "I can move the clutch up and down with a long screwdriver." ?? It kinda sounds like you need to replace the clutch spring and friction plate (and probably some other parts too).
Tom
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If you did not loosen or remove the 6 clutch pack screws then the clutch will remain centered and ready to accept the splined front-end of the transmission. You may need to spin the transmission front drive splines a little by hand on the rear of the transmission to get the front to slip into the clutch disk, but that' all.
Do not force the gearbox onto the engine. If it's not fitting fairly easily you have a problem.
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While the gearbox is off the bike, you should reattach the shift lever and try shifting through all the gears while spinning the shaft by hand. You should be able to do that.
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I managed to get it in with the guide screws I made. The transmission shifts through all the gears. The clutch spring seems like it should have been tighter, since I was able to move the clutch with a screwdriver.
I put it back together and rode it today. I need to adjust the clutch cable. There is no play at the lever. Besides that it seems to ride well and shifts through all the gears no problem.
The engine makes a whirring sound but I think that is normal (fuel injectors?). A few K bikes I heard on youtube make the same noise.
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The engine makes a whirring sound but I think that is normal (fuel injectors?). A few K bikes I heard on youtube make the same noise.
The fuel pump is known to be "buzzy," this may be what you're hearing. Not indicative of a problem.