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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: wmax351 on June 18, 2013, 02:31:58 AM
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Working on tearing the bike down for the new engine. :clap:
However, it appears that the rear seal on the transmission is leaking (gear oil in drive shaft area). What is replacement like for this?
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I didn't do mine myself, instead had the dealer replace 4 seals (2 on each side) and the little plastic round cover. Total bill for parts and labor was $360 with parts being almost $70. If the dealer tech can do it in 2-3 hours to swap 5 things, you should be able to do them in 1 day. Just my thought.
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Did a bit more looking. I think I can replace the culprit with some creative pulling, probably by putting a couple screws into the seal, and grabbing them with a slide hammer. I may have ted porter's beemershop take care of it, for special tools sake.
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When I did my transmission seals I didn't use any special tools other than a heat gun and the freezer.
My local dealer quoted me $250 for labor if I dropped the transmission off. I also asked about the possibility of replacing the output seal without opening the case. The service manager politely entertained my question and pointed out that it would be easier to open it up, drive the seals out from the inside and replace all five seals since I was already that far into it considering the seals were all twenty years old at this point.
My first time at replacing all the seals once the transmission was sitting on the bench probably added up to about 3 1/2 hours. I'm confident, having done it once, two hours is not an unreasonable estimation even getting closer to 1 1/2 most likely.
Of course this isn't including the time the gear shafts spent chillaxin in the freezer for shrinkage and me drinking a beer for refreshment. If you get the gear shafts out and into the freezer while you do the clean up and seal replacement they're ready to go as soon as you are.
Keep track of the end play shims for the shafts, making sure they don't inadvertently fall out while you move the cover around the bench.
Give it a go!
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I am going to do it myself, teardown style. Ted Porter is booked for weeks anyhow, and then has the MOA rally.
"The issue with removing the seals without disassembling the gearbox is the risk of damaging the sealing surface on the shafts. Each situation is different, and I evaluate each one and decide if I want to risk it. In some cases it's not worth the risk and I opt to remove the cover to replace the input seal. This also gives me the opportunity to do a quick evaluation inside, and also reseal the cover which can leak. The output shaft has the same risks." (Email from Ted Porter)
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Max, when I replaced those seals I also tightened the set screw on the shift lever (inside the trans housing). Not sure if yours is even loose (mine was, causing lots of free play in the lever--and also a posing a risk of it backing out completely and damaging the trans). Just something to consider while you already have the trans open.
-Dan
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Max, when I replaced those seals I also tightened the set screw on the shift lever (inside the trans housing). Not sure if yours is even loose (mine was, causing lots of free play in the lever--and also a posing a risk of it backing out completely and damaging the trans). Just something to consider while you already have the trans open.
-Dan
Yeah, I figure I will check it and re-loctite it, even though it is fine now.