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MOTOBRICK RIDING => Photographic Ride Reports => Topic started by: TimTyler on May 09, 2013, 08:51:46 PM
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Installed a new front master cylinder yesterday and cleaned out the fork tubes. Switched from 10W to 7.5W fork oil (50% 10W + 50% 5W)
Took the bike on a test ride around the perimeter of Mt. Rainier to make sure it was all working.
I stopped at a rest area not far south of Olympia to walk around the bike and check for leaks before heading into the hills. The weather forecast was good for the day, but the sky was still very overcast with no sign of sun.
Headed down route 5 and got off onto 508 after Chehalis. What a great road... all the way to Morton. The sun finally came out in Cinebar.
I had planned to return via Paradise but all the eastern park entrances were closed.
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The forest roads near the mountain were amazingly crisp and fragrant, especially just below the snow line. The smell was truly mesmerizing. Wish I could buy that in a bottle.
Treated myself to a chocolate shake at Wally's White River Drive-in in Buckley (https://maps.google.com/maps?q=wally's+burgers+buckley+wa&ll=47.170111,-122.027378&spn=0.064301,0.169086&safe=off&fb=1&gl=us&hq=wally's+burgers+buckley+wa&cid=0,0,12910934560872194369&t=m&z=13&iwloc=A).
Expected stop and go along 410 until 512 then zipped home down 5.
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I'm incredibly jealous. That looks like an amazing ride, I'd like to get out that way sometime. How did the bike handle with the different weight?
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I like way it handles bumpity-bumps better now, but my front end is still squirrely sometimes in the corners. Maybe that's just me.
Both fork legs have dampers in them since the bike was born an RT, and the forks are expecting weight from the fairing even though I've removed it.
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greetings tt...
(http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/images/part/0000737594.jpg) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=31421454321&showus=on&showeur=&details=1)
j o
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Thanks, Johnny. There's a fork stabilizer on there.
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the rear sag has everything to do with how the front of my motobrick responds to input... i generally have to be a few clicks north of recommended... if you can adjust your rear ride height you may find the sweep spot in your motogeometry... mine is sensitive to as little as 3/8 of an inch...
i installed new tiors last weekend and had to go up 1 full turn to get it from a heavy front end to top dead center in the yeeehaaaa zone... as my tiors wear i will have to go down a half turn then another half turn... makes a mighty difference... i gotts abouts a 1/2 inch of yeeeehaaaa adjustment from new tiors to cords...
j o
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That's good to know, thanks johnny. I wish I was more sensitive to those minute riding details. Maybe with more experience. Anyways, I'm glad to hear it handles better, I may try that weight since I'm in a similar position going from a RT to a naked.
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...if you can adjust your rear ride height you may find the sweep spot in your motogeometry...
Thx. I'll need to figure that out. The rear shock is a new Progressive 465 that's still in the default configuration.
I'm 150# in my birthday outfit and the rear tragkorbs are lightly packed, although I do carry a lot of small tools.
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465 sag... (http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/3082%20465%20Series%20Install%20Instr.pdf)
j o
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Thanks.
But what's the value for "Total Wheel Travel"?
Extended Height is measured with the bike on a jack with the rear tire
just off the ground or off the stand and with a helper. While holding the
bike straight up have the helper solidly lift the rear end by the fender or
rack until you feel the shocks stop extending, or “top out”. Once you are
certain the suspension if fully extended, take your first measurement.
Ride Height is measured with the rider, or riders, and gear on the bike
(hands on the bars and feet on the pegs) and a helper or two supporting nit. A measurement is again taken using the same points as before.
Now subtract the second measurement - Ride Height - from the first
measurement - Extended height - and the difference between the two nmeasurements is the Ride Sag.
Ride Sag is generally expected to be 1/3 of the total wheel travel. If your
number is less, then the bike will require less preload, and if it is greater,
more preload is needed.
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stock height replacement unit is the 1101... 3.55 inches of wheel travel... 1 1/4 approx inches of sag... thats where i would start... (http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/7100-105.pdf)
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Whadda ya know! I was seriously over-sagged.
All fixed now. Thx!
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so jealous, must make that ride someday soon!
is your mini wind screen an aftermarket? if so where did you get it?
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is your mini wind screen an aftermarket? if so where did you get it?
Have a look here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3186.msg19898#msg19898 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3186.msg19898#msg19898)
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Tim, did you find some instructions for removing/replacing the master cylinder? I sure it's not too difficult but I'm curious about any pitfalls.
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It was simple with the complete replacement cylinder assembly, Bob. Unscrew everything and screw it all back together again :)
My first attempt was just supposed to be a master cylinder overhaul, and that was easy too, except that the replacement copper washer I used was too thick and I over-tightened the brake hose connection and stripped the threads, hence the new complete assembly. I then bought the proper copper washer from the dealer and it was surprising thin and small in diameter.
I did not "prime" the cylinder with fluid. Once everything was connected and some fluid was added I flicked the brake lever a bunch of times until the air bubbles stopped, followed by generous front system bleed. Someday I need to rebuild the calipers but my brakes are working fine now.
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It was simple with the complete replacement cylinder assembly, Bob. Unscrew everything and screw it all back together again :)
I was thinking about the heated grips. Maybe not an issue on yours. Thanks.