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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: CrashBar on April 15, 2013, 10:28:44 AM
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So I've some some research and carefully disassembled the triple clamps. However, the bearings are "stuck" on the shafts. I distroyed the cage on the bottom thinking I could get pliers on the inner surface and pull it off. And the top seems equally stuck. Any tricks? Heat? PB Blaster? I did not expect them to be so snug.
Also, what do you think of my races? I see regular marks where the bearings touch but it feels as smooth as a baby's bottom. I'd rather not replace if I don't need too.
CB
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I just did this job myself too. Replace both races, no real point in skipping them-- especially since they're usually the half that fails and they come with the new bearings. Get a long drift/punch and tap them out with a hammer from the inside of the head tube. Get a block of wood and smack the new ones right in. Easily done. :2thumbup:
Bottom race: If you have a dremel you can grind away as much as you can without hitting the shaft and try to crack it off with a chisel since the metal used is very hard and brittle but a safer option may be to take it to a shop and have them press it off (I use the local Honda shop for bearing presses since they charge less than BMW and it's not really a specialty job).
Although honestly... I didn't bother replacing my bottom bearing, just the race so I can't comment on how I did. But remember to keep your dust caps in place, my top bearing didn't have one and I think the lack of weather protection is why the race started pitting (I ride in the rain whenever I have to).
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As for the top bearing, it's just stuck to the knurled nut with that old grease. A bit of solvent and it should fall off.
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What's the symptom for failure? Is this something we need to do as preventive?
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Put the outer races in the freezer: they drop right in. Even better: dry ice.
The inner races: heat them up, they drop right on. Especially if the triple clamp is in the freezer first.
For the lower clamp, you can heat up the aluminum, and pull it off, then pound the bearing down with some heat. Or carefully dremel, then chizel it. The knurled nut bearing can be a little tricky sometimes, but dremel and chizel usually works.
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Old trick is to weld a bit of bead in the races to "shrink" them. They pop right out with about three little welds evenly spaced.
The inner race that is stuck on the triple, that's what I save old cut off wheels for. When they are new they are to big to get to the race, but the almost worn out ones will reach in and get to the piece. Get as close as you want and then give them a good whack with a hammer & chisel, it'll crack and will come right off.
Putting the stuff back together is even easier if you follow the above advice. Heat & cool the correct parts and use plenty of grease. It'll all go together pretty well.
After a bunch of him-hawing I finally (With Duck's advice) ditched the fluidblock, and really can't say I miss it. Maybe I'm not aggressive enough, but I haven't even really noticed it's gone. I also don't think it should be required, with everything else in good serviceable condition.