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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: cmichael on March 27, 2013, 08:40:34 AM
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I posted in the wdydtymt thread but didn't get much action.
Q: Are the fork bolts one time use(stretch bolts) I had one pop unexpectedly! Planning on replacing them with standard ss bolts? (Pic in pdyd)
Q2: I am a moron, the fork boots go on with the restrictive part towards the top correct?
Q3: Do I need a relay to switch non-oem heated grips. Planning on an aftermarket switch , high mode only
Q4: The wires for the heated grips run into the tubes, covered by closed end grips, no holes needed, correct?
Q5: TO BE CONTINUED
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I posted in the wdydtymt thread but didn't get much action.
Q: Are the fork bolts one time use(stretch bolts) I had one pop unexpectedly! Planning on replacing them with standard ss bolts? (Pic in pdyd)
Q2: I am a moron, the fork boots go on with the restrictive part towards the top correct?
Q3: Do I need a relay to switch non-oem heated grips. Planning on an aftermarket switch , high mode only
Q4: The wires for the heated grips run into the tubes, covered by closed end grips, no holes needed, correct?
Q5: TO BE CONTINUED
#1, not stretch bolts. If it broke, try a torque wrench next time.
#2, usually. Don't forget a vent/moisture drain hole at the lower end of the boot to prevent it from building up ad setting on the seal.
#3, relay not needed if the switch and circuit wiring can handle the current load of the grips. A relay is not a bad idea so you don't run the current thru the ign switch contacts.
#4, depends. if the bike had heated grips on it from the factory, then you should have the wiring holes already drilled out. If not then will need to drill some holes to run the wires, or just zip tie them to the outside of the bars with the other cables that are there anyway.
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Thanks,
I have the torque wrench handy this time, I barely snugged it down when it snapped :dunno2:
I will have a closer look at the fork boots today!
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Which fork bolts are we talking about? I snapped one in the top triple clamp because I was using, with a torque wrench, a "reference sheet" of K-bike torque specs I found on the interwebz. It had the specs for the top and bottom triple clamps inverted, and they are different. Very different, as it turns out.
Lesson learned, torque sheet in the trash, and I check Clymer's every time now.
I wouldn't run power for heat through any of those tiny wires in the switchgear. Enough problems up there as it is.
When I looked around at doing this myself, I didn't see any holes in my K75 handlebars, so I concluded I'd have to drill one in the bottom of the low center part to feed the wires in, then out through the bar ends. Project deferred til I have some other good reason to tear that all apart, particularly the brake reservoir. (Also, I have foam grips, and not at all certain the heat will penetrate those well.)
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Thanks. I replaced all the bolts with stainless and torqued to clymer specs!
As for the grips, I have the elements but am awaiting new bars, mine have the holes and are c type I believe, but Im done wrenching and more worried about getting some miles in now! So yeah, my project is deferred too...I also need a new resevoir.
:bmwsmile