MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: branandfox on March 20, 2013, 06:04:36 PM
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Which oil do you guys use on your bricks? starting the orderfest for bike parts and oils. just need motor oil suggestions!
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Texaco Havoline, pure mineral oil 20W-50W. Straight from the Republic of Texas. cool shades
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Oh goody, an oil thread! I'm in.
Synthetic 20/50
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Add my vote for Mobile-1 15w50 unless I'm changing it when it's stinking hot....
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Synthetic 5w40.
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Cheapest Pennzoil-Quakerstate-Valvoline 10-40 from Wally World with an AC Delco PF-53 filter
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Mobil 1 15w50. I've used the castrol syntec 5w-50, but consumption goes up, and the engine is less smooth.
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greetings branandfox...
the burd motobrick presently has some mobile 1 20-50 some mobile 1 10-30 some mobile 1 15-50 and some rotella t6 5-50 in its belly...
never smoked so much and never had so much power...
j o
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I.m in too, 20-50w Spectro Golden 4.
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Mobil 1 15w50. I've used the castrol syntec 5w-50, but consumption goes up, and the engine is less smooth.
+1, except for the castrol thing.
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Napa synthetic 15w-50
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sweet. Seems like I was on the right track in thinking mobil 1 15/50 or 20/50. I got some K&N gold filters too while I was at it!
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Living in The Netherlands I use a cheapass 15w40 semi synthetic oil. Brand is Techno and it has the SF specification. I use it also in my Volvo 240, changing it twice a year. Costs only 10 euro (about 14 dollar) for 5 liter :yes
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High detergent 15-50 Diesel Oil. Keeps the starter clutch rollers clean
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I took the advice of someone and got a gallon Mobil one 15-50 at walli world. It's way back in the corner of a 20 acre store; like milk at the grocery store.
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Castrol Edge 5w-40 and a Bosch oil filter.
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Valvoline 20W50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Zero oil consumption, smooth as glass running, more seat of the pants feeling of power. Changed from Mobil 1 15W50. Bosch Filter.
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Another vote for Mobil1 15w50. It's $25/5qt at WalMart; that's a measly $5/qt. I love that I can shop for oil in the car oil aisle.
I've found it starts more eagerly on very cold winter mornings (that's 30s here in the L.A. burbs) on 10w40, so around early winter it gets a gallon of that. According to my owner's manual (1987 K75C), that's in spec for ambient temperatures up to (I think, from memory) 68F, though they clearly prefer a 50-weight around that temperature.
Bosch D3330 filter.
That Valvoline sounds nice. I'll check it out next time I have an excuse to buy oil, which will be a while.
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Syn. 20/50
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Oil thread! :yow
:yes I thought there would be more love for the Rotella. I'm running Rotella 5w-40 syn.
The 2 bikes I had previous to this one were air cooled and both known to be very hard on oil (shearing in shared tranny/crankcase) KL600b & CB900c. Both had a lot of NLA stuff, the biggest of which was the oil pumps in the CB. So I changed the oil every 1000, and the filters at 2000, which should have been way overkill. I ran 15w-40 Rotella in both of those because of price and the oils ability to really take a beating before starting to shear, and it has a pretty good rep. at BITOG.
The synthetic 5w-40 was way overkill on both of those bikes, but since the K has a separate tranny and crankcase, it should be perfect. Long lasting and very capable of handling the k-bike's oil needs across a wide range of temps.
cool shades
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Mine does not need to be changed yet, but I guess that I will use Castrol or Rotella. I have had real good luck with both of them in the past. My bike has the synthetic stuff in it right now. Was put in by the PO, but he told me that he would not run synthetic again in the K75. I was not on top of things enough to ask him why. Other than price, I can't see any reason to use regular oil. Anyone have any ideas as to why someone would run dino oil over the fake stuff?
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I get a slight weeping out of the points on the crankcase cover where multiple pieces intersect. I eliminated that almost completely when I replaced the crank cover gasket and the rubber bushings, and put a thin film of gasket dressing at those intersection points. Even so, it didn't bother me terribly before I cleared it up, but I can see how it might. It was considerably more noticeable with the Mobil1 than with conventional oil.
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Mine does not need to be changed yet, but I guess that I will use Castrol or Rotella. I have had real good luck with both of them in the past. My bike has the synthetic stuff in it right now. Was put in by the PO, but he told me that he would not run synthetic again in the K75. I was not on top of things enough to ask him why. Other than price, I can't see any reason to use regular oil. Anyone have any ideas as to why someone would run dino oil over the fake stuff?
Yeah, like James mentions, synthetic can find leaks that conventional oils won't. The detergents in oils can work surprisingly well, and most of the synthetics have pretty good additive/detergent packages. Bikes with shared tranny/crankcases as well as wet clutches really benefit from the robust additive packages in oils like Rotella.
Almost any modern motor oil you can buy off the shelf will provide proper protection for most people. As long as it meets the vehicles spec.
Actually, thinking about it a bit, we should be able to run energy conserving oils in the K's if we want to. Since we don't have the wet clutch's that are harmed by them. :loopy:
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Thanks to our bikes' dry clutches, we can use car oil in their engines.
The synthetics are said to be good for preventing trouble with the starters' sprag clutch (they say that dino oils can gum up the sprags).
I like the Mobil 1 15w50. No problem ever with leaks or burning oil. My filters I get from Beemer Bonyard.
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I had a BMW tech tell me once that you should use motorcycle oil because of the high RPMs and cylinder heat. He thought it was possible to burn the valves without the extra additives. So I dump a quart of the $$$ stuff in when I change.
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Use any oil that you want but it is not going to cause the valves to burn because the bits that burn on valves are the heads and the are not near any oil.
A good way of deciding what oil to use is to study what is being recommended by BMW for their cars over the years and what the change intervals are with the newer oils. Now that they put fully synthetic into some of the cars, they only change the oil every 40,000 miles!
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AMSOIL 20w50 synthetic
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AMSOIL 20w50 synthetic
Atta boy!!!
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Amsoil 20/50
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didn't anyone noticed that BMW recommends 10/40 only up to 40 degree F ambient temp? what's up with that?
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Mobil 1 15W-50. I get the big jugs of it at Wally World, have got 2 K75s and a Ural to feed.
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Mobil 15-50 @Wally World+++
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I tried Mobil Delvac 1300 diesel oil - I think the last change was just Supertech 15-40.
I saved the Rotella syn for my diesel jetta.
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i putts 750ml of honda ss-10 suspension fluid in my motobricks on a regular basis... if you feel like your motobrick is gonna bicycle... you may wanna try it... if you aints sliding you aints riding...
:hide:
j o