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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Diveschool on February 27, 2013, 03:21:45 PM
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Come back from my trip to Big Bend National park, 1600 miles in 4.5 days every thing was perfect. "Fortunately" now that I am back home, my ignition will turn to parking position with no problem. But I can't turn it to start position :hmm:?
I did read the page about taking the lock apart and cleaning it, but it does not seems to me like dirt is the issue.
Any advice?
Thanks.
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So the key turns the lock "cylinder", but it wont turn to the starting spot where it had been turning before?
Or is it that it does turn to that starting spot, but the starter doesn't engage.
The lock wafers that hold the key from turning may be the problem, but you say that you don't think that is the problem.
I discovered that the mechanism that extends the post that locks the steering can hang up.
The wafer cage sits on top of the steering lock mechanism which then goes to the electrical contact chamber part underneath it all.
It might not be a bad idea to extract the ignition if the key only turns so far.
If it is a broken wire that keeps the starter from engaging then you might be ok without extracting it.
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Thank you for the reply. I can turn the key to the 1st location (parking), but I can't turn it to the 2nd location (ignition).
After, 20 min or so, of jiggling the key I was able to make it turn to the 2nd location (ignition), and the bike instantly started. However, when I turned off the bike, and turn key to o position (off), I was not able to turn it back to 2nd location (ignition).
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Hint: It really helps us help you if you put your year and model in your signature. (Click on Profile->Forum Profile.) Or at least include it in your post.
Sounds like your lock cylinder is messed up.
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Duck is, as always, right on.
Drill out the security bolt tops and extract the ignition down from the top triple tree. You can replace the bolts with hex heads or the like.
The steering lock is my greatest suspicion. After that I would open up the contact housing to see if one of the sliders has fouled or is catching on one of the contact points (4 springs and 3 sliders in there, don't worry). I agree with you in that I doubt it is dirt in the key wafers part. After all, once the cylinder is freed, the it is free.
I spent a few hours with my ignition digging out some/many problems. I suggest you do the same.
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If you haven't already tried it, try a good quality dry film lubricant before tucking into any disassembling.
I recently had a similar experience which included difficulty in removing the key. After some persistent yet light jiggling I was able to get the key out. Realized I hadn't lubed the cylinders in a few years compounded by riding in all sorts of weather plus parking outside in the weather during the days(nights get spent in a garage.)
Lubed things up and all is good to go.
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Bike is 1992 k75rt abs
Will start with oil.
Thanks
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Gotten Graphite oil spray, and this fixed the switch problem.
Then I discover that with my previous day frustration, I left the switch in Parking position and drain the battery :confused: :confused: :confused:
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I'm glad you didn't need to pull it out.
I wonder which part had hung up?
The graphite oil seeps down and dries leaving the graphite residue as the actual lubricant, right?
Guess it don't matter much as long as it stays fixed.
:2thumbup:
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"The graphite oil seeps down and dries leaving the graphite residue as the actual lubricant, right?"
Was told that the only spray to use for locks is graphite spray or powder, work perfectly now.
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Oops.
The graphite spray I use does not have "oil" in it. My bad.
It has some type of liquid that evaporates leaving the graphite residue behind.
That liquid works better than the powder as far as penetrating is concerned.