MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Qdude on February 20, 2013, 04:24:05 AM
-
I found my bike on its side, knocked over, with a broken fairing.
As I am fixing the cracks from this accident and some from te P.O. it occured to me that I may as well paint the plastics and tank while I am at it.
I am having issues with the pics...
-
Now that's not a nice thing to find.....
But, you seem to have found a little bit of silver lining to this cloud - good luck with the repairs and paint (and sorting out pics)
-
I found my bike on its side, knocked over, with a broken fairing.
As I am fixing the cracks from this accident and some from te P.O. it occured to me that I may as well paint the plastics and tank while I am at it.
I am having issues with the pics...
Under the text box click on Attachments and other options and then click on the Choose file button.
-
Pics...
-
That mirror casing has been epoxied back together.
-
You might want to consider resizing your images a little smaller before you post them :=) Around 1024 x 768 pixels is a reasonable size.
-
Got it. I need to learn how to do that yet. :dunno
Now I am ready to choose a paint color.
I have always been a big fan of dark green (I owned a few Kawasakis) and I thought to continue.
The more I think about it though, the more I am drawn to "cop-out" gloss black...
The lines of the fairing don't mix well in contrast with the profile of the bike IMHO,...
Using black would blend its lines in with the profile as a whole.
It would also blend in with the seat and cases...
(http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicles/cycles/bmw/96k11ltb.jpg)
It also makes the "BMW" marking on the engine stand out more, in a good way.
I never thought I would hear myself saying this, but I am leaning towards light metal flake black undercoat & clear, or clear with a touch of white pearl or dk blue pearl overcoat...
(http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/501/Dave_Swisher_and_BMW_K_1100_LT.jpg)
(http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photos/photophotos/k1100lt%20(1).jpg)
-
Paint prep is churning along.
Damn rainy weather dampened my motivation tonight.
Tank -- the dent is fixed, I need to prep the cap, the paint is abraded.
Fairing -- the upper main is repaired and abraded
-- the sides are both sound, repaired and abraded
-- the lower radiator shroud needs some hand sanding to get some of the crevasses abraded
-- the mirrors are both repaired and abraded
Tail -- ding repaired and abraded (that thing is way heavier than I thought it would be)
Front fenders -- abraded
Parts I have yet to sand but are removed and prepped,
Side Panels
Windshield Mount Plate
Dash Upper and Sides
Parts to add?
tragkorb Lid? Maybe later...
-
I need to get to the paint shop and get grease and wax remover and tack cloths.
I need to build a quick plastic shroud to paint within.
I am on schedule to spray primer this weekend.
13 pieces to shoot.
-
Knee dents before the Bondo. Got it to where I could not find it by touch.
I am using black, so the flaws are going to really, really show. Oh F' oh well.
I have only ever used rattle cans in the past. Under and overcoats, wet sanding and buffing. I thought I had great results. This is my first venture into catalizing paints via sprayers. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
-
.
-
Hey, Q:
If you want to use that tank hanger I told you about then I can probably swing by and drop if off tomorrow afternoon on my way home from picking up some parts at Ride West. 3:30 or later, right?
-
Perfect !!
Thanks Dr. D.
That reminds me that I haven't prepped the fuel cap.
!4 parts to shoot then.
-
Hey Duck, I will check my phone when I get home today.
-
There is not more to do than to just go head and shoot primer.
As hard as I try to find some reason to stress about something simple... there it is.
Out I go now to shoot paint thinner. It will clean out the gun, and get me some left seat time to boot.
-
Wow, did I learn a lot today.
My "Paintbooth" worked, but was way too cramped.
I should figure out a better way such as doing two separate batches rather than trying to squeeze in and around all those parts.
The paint remover heat gun worked wonderfully as a space heater.
The fan was just right.
The material was mixed too thick initially for the size tip I have.
The reducer thinned it out well.
The pressure matters.
I am calling my Car Painter friend to shamelessly ask his assistance for the color shoot. I won't feel badly about it since I went the distance on the primer coat. I have no problem helping folks who have helped themselves first.
After shooting, I cleaned the equipment out and noticed the fuel cap that I had forgotten.
Happens every time right?
Cleaned up again and took off the mask. Put some tools away and thought to get a pic or two for the forum.
Holy Crap! The fumes in there were powerfully overwhelming. I got two pics and bailed on the camera session. Had to go and get some fresh air.
-
I got them sprayed.
-
After a few more hours of drying time, I will go at the surfaces with 600 grit. Then decide to go for another coat of primer or not. Guess it will depend on how deep the imperfections were and how much material needed to be removed.
-
Got the parts in the bathroom for the heat and vent fan for curing. It was 50 degrees F' out in the garage without the plastic enclosure. Off-gasing really smells.
-
I am not unhappy with the results.
I decided to not go crazy with multiple coats and sanding of the primer to get closer to perfection.
I will "de-bur" the coat with 600 wet and shoot for "reasonably smooth" as opposed to "perfect" as far as the small pits in the finish are concerned.
Now I must pony up the 300 or so duckets for the color and clear coat. :loco:
-
Paint shop guys called me out for admitting that I planned to short cut the primer sanding steps. I top coated and 600 grit wet sanded through the primer in spots. Ergo I must re-spray primer this next weekend. I will thin the mix out much more so that it will go on flatter and smoother. In the mean time (and I do mean 'mean' time), it is out for hours more wet sanding 'til dark when I move indoors to the shower to continue hand sanding parts 'til I can't s(t)and no more...
-
All of the sanding I have done these past two evenings has made one thing evident. The post painted parts that stayed in the plastic tent were oversprayed and have needed, presumeably, much more sanding than the forgotten part that was sprayed alone. The fuel cap that I did after the fact had a finish that was "glossy" and smooth compared to all the rest of the parts.
I want now to find a strategy such as part spray and remove, or some type of air/overspray evacuation to confront this. I do want to be considerate to the neighbors though for the fumes. I do also need to be careful of airborne dust particulate.
Any experience/ideas other than take it to a professional?
-
Just bought paint.
I misunderstood the process and therefore needed to do some thinking and imagining for some time over a pile of paint color cards and coffee.
It took a while to figure out the differences in the formulas as there were at least 30 different "blacks" to choose from. I had to stare at them in different lights for the better part of an hour. I wanted the color to seem basic in low light for our cloudy Seattle days, but change slightly when the sun came out. Though I was careful to keep the "glitz" light as opposed to "Vegas". I wanted dark blue pearl and light metalic flake.
I finally settled on a Mazda "Black Pearl" paint that cost a low to medium $90.oo a pint.
The clerk showed me the ingredients and I was pleasantly surprised.
It had dark blue pearl and medium metal flake and was tinted with blue and red.
Other bonuses;
There is no hardener requirement, so I can take my time without the worry of material curing in the gun. I had worried about needing to prep most of the parts for simultaneous shooting, subjecting the parts to overspray. Since there is no "pot-life" on the color paint, I may shoot parts one or two at a time.
I am now hiding in my room afraid to go out and try the new LPHV gravity feed. I got some apprehension. Guess there is nothing to it 'cept to go out and do it. I will start with the radiator cover. Least visible.
:loco: :eek2:
Maybe a shot 'o bourbon or two.
-
painted 7 of 14 parts...
4 will be fine, 3 need help. By help I mean repainting...
Do not use the gun to blow dry areas that are running with metallic pearl paints. It will result in some pretty serious patterning as exempified in the second pic below. Apparently the flake lays a certain way and can be adversly affected by gun angle and distance from the work as well as by pressure. Trigger the paint before you hit the part to avoid splotching. Don't miss areas altogether either...
-
Qdude -- Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated. Bill
-
Qdude -- Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated. Bill
Bill :bow2:
I discovered, while wet sanding, how the paint will look when I get the clear coat sprayed. I am looking forward to finishing. (See what I did there? That was a homonym cum double entendre... :cowpoop:)
-
I am now building my second air scrubber. The first one was a cardboard mock-up that worked. I went and got some ply wood, re-designed it and am now taking a break while waiting for the great stuff to expand/dry.
I found an "activated carbon impregnated furnace filter" that claimed to absorb fuel, paint, bleach and exhaust fumes. I built a box around a 15 inch fan that I broke apart and shrouded with cardboard. There is a cheap fiberglass filter medium pre-filter before the fan. Then there is some filter floss before the carbon filter.
I shortened the box to four feet tall so that I may use it as a tall work bench (using a table top 'cap' type insert) when I am not painting. There will be storage space inside it for the paint guns as well. I am considering adding legs so that I may tip it on its side and use it as a painting table (having the inlet then on top instead of on the side near the floor, exhausting laterally instead of upward).
I have "great stuff" and "gorilla glue" all over my hands... I have learned a new tenacity...
-
The skin on hy hands actually formed the words "f*ck you" to me today as some of the skin began bleeding. Oh well, nothing a couple extra beers wont sort out.
Everything is color sprayed. I am a little beered up, or at least I hope it was the beer and not the paint fumes bypassing my respirator. I am waiting for the paint to harden. Then I will see if there are any flubs to be sanded flat or re-done. Then it is off to the clear coat. I offered to help a friend moove after work tomorrow or I would do it then. I expect to be finished soon.
The air scrubber works rather well. It was not %100, but the roomies appreciate it just the same.
-
No Re-dos needed !!
I will need to wait 'til Saturday night to lightly sand some rough spots.
Sunday after work will be the first batch of clear coat. Monday will be the remainder, if I can wait that long.
Then I will need to determine if any fine sanding will be needed. Perhaps just the tank?
Pics to come...
-
Booyah MutherF*ckuhrz I am drunk,... No less than 13 PBR's thank you aaaand you're welcome...
And I have clear coated all of the 14 parts of the bike and am now DONE with the painting.
The air scrubber kept my finicky roommate just this side of mental to the amusement of all others. I would be happy to share all that I learned.
The clear coat brought out the blue and red tint, metal flake and Dark Blue Pearl of the paint and I could not be happier, really. I took the trial by fire road and learned quite a lot, f*cked up as I went. To the point that if given the chance I would change a lot of what I did. Hind sight you fickle b*tch. The results exeeded my expectations, beer goggles notwithstanding (cool roommates gave me rave reviews),...
I bumped into the main fairing with my shoulder three times in the same spot (no I didn't learn, thank you very much) so there are some sweatshirt fibers that will need some attention. I picked up and dropped the gas cap that now needs work. There is also a small run on the side of the tank that may be underneath the foam knee pad that I am not particularly worried about. Hence a passing grade.
-
Look how the sun brings out the details.
See if you can pick out the most important tin in the last picture... :drool:
-
4 to 6 hours (stated curing time) is too long for me to handle, time for a bicycle ride to work out some of this beer...
-
Started the reassembly and discovered that the bracket that holds the main fairing is torqued out of position. I need to either hammer it into shape, or give up and find another.
Dr. Duck lent me a RS mount to compare, but it does not fit. The key ignition gets in the way. It allowed me to align the mount holes for the fairing correctly, but the positioning is a little off. The holes for the side supports and the alignment of the apertures for the engind were both about a half inch forward of where they should be. I am about to go out and start hammering just because.
-
I was able to beat the brace into passable shape. I believe that it is "off" just a little bit. I will have to see once I get it together wether I can live with it or not.
The radiator cover got bedliner treated. I was not going to spend the time needed to prep the lattice werll enough to keep it from chipping, exposing the lighter colored primer.