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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: pdg on February 12, 2013, 12:11:28 AM
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This is the story of my K75 budget project. I'll try to keep it some sort of order by starting a new post when I change subject so there will be a few straight off to catch up with what's been done so far. At this point I've owned it for about 5 weeks, found some little problems, sorted out some little problems and then found some more little problems!
Around Christmas time I was talking to some friends and I mentioned that I wanted to get a BMW some time in the new year. One of the guys said he had a K75S for sale cheap if I wanted it. It had been sat outside since early December but was in daily use until then - still had 6 months MOT so was basically ready to roll. First week of January saw me going to get this 1988 model showing 80k:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/first_zpsa950c78b.jpg)
First order of business was to give it a wash and see what I was dealing with - just that made it look a bit better...
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/washed_zps1c9254c8.jpg)
So, going over it had a 'to-do' list coming together, in no particular order of importance:
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe.
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime)
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running.
4. Re-cover the seat.
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken.
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler.
That list is just things I want to do first - there is more to sort out (little dent in tank, paint etc.) but nothing urgent.
Seeing as I said it's a budget project, I'll keep a tally going of how much it's cost at the end of each job... So far it's been:
Fuel to collect = £90 (yes, I'm counting this as a cost!)
Purchase = £250
Total = £340
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For the price, around $500.oo? Looks great!
Especially after the wash.
Too bad about that hole in the seat. I wonder if there is something you can do temporarily, just to camouflage it a bit. The eye gets drawn to it and it does not do the bike justice. Dark fabric tucked under to cover the foam?
I gotta get pictures of mine, I have had it for a week now. Little problems, lots of 'em. It will be worth it.
Cheers.
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Thanks, I'm pleased with it.
As for the seat, it had definitely seen better days...
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0788_zpsa1d35468.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0789_zpsb76482f4.jpg)
Unfortunately, that's what happens when it lives outside - rain, snow, cold, heat and especially UV all contribute to hardening of the vinyl covering and then it splits on the creases when you sit on it.
Still, after a quick trip to town to visit the fabric/dressmaking/sewing shop to buy some new leather effect vinyl, followed by a bit of stretching and gluing I'm left with this:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0799_zps7a45f1d1.jpg)
I think it's a passable effort. Where the holes were in the old cover there is some wear to the foam which shows through the new cover slightly, but it's not bad at all. I may replace the strap at some point but I haven't decided on that yet.
This new material is a bit thinner than the original, and it's not 'rated' for external use so it's really not going to last as long as a 'proper' one, but it was £3.74 for a piece 140cm*75cm which is enough to do the seat twice. For that money I'll replace it every 6 months if I have to.
If I can find another seat base and maybe foam (keeping an eye on ebay etc. for a damaged seat) I'm going to have a go at carving a nicer shaped one. I'm happy to keep this one for the time being though.
A bit more catch up left, so when I have a few minutes I'll update again.
Costs so far:
Fuel to collect = £90
Purchase = £250
Seat cover material = £3.74 (I had glue and it didn't take much...)
Total = £343.74
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Next bit while I have a couple of minutes spare...
Expansion/radiator overflow pipe.
This had been 'repaired' previously using silicon sealant - this apparently worked for a while, but it's not ideal and anyway the pipe had come adrift from the expansion tank by about an inch or so.
I had a browse in the local car parts shop and the only pipe they had in the correct bore was fuel hose (it's labelled 5/16" and fits perfectly - just a bit of stretch). It's fine for this use, massively overspecced though being twinwall braid reinforced... Still, it's not going to pop!
Anyway, to get to the radiator cap I'm sure you're aware you need to move the fuel tank - rather than balance it precariously while leaving the fuel lines attached I decided to remove it completely. While taking off the fuel lines I noticed the reason behind the smell of fuel after running the engine:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0783_zps60c15e55.jpg)
Those splits and cracks go pretty much all the way through - the only reason the fuel was staying in at all was because the splits were being held closed by the bend in the hose when fitted. Both the supply and return lines were in that state right under the tank. A bit more of the same hose required then. This hose exceeds the BMW specs and is (I assume) much cheaper then buying the OEM lines - the only disadvantage is that it's not shaped/bent to fit and the BMW hose clips are too small as it's slightly larger externally (same internally, just thicker walls).
Seeing as I was working without a manual one bit was confusing - tugging on one end of the return hose didn't move the other end... A few more spanners to investigate.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0782_zpsf5bc856a.jpg)
Oh well...
The large pipe between the airbox and plenum didn't want to shift easily, so with a bit of wiggling I got the lower part of the airbox out so I could get to (what I discovered was) the fuel pressure regulator to swap out the hoses.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0786_zps079524e0.jpg)
It's a bit awkward and a tight fit for hands and tools doing it this way, but to my mind it's easier than stripping out the plenum side - especially considering the hose clamps on the inlets are the crimped originals.
So, got new fuel lines run in - changed the routing slightly so it didn't kink on any of the bends. The bit going from the fuel rail to the pressure reg. 'looked' fine, but as I was there and had enough hose I replaced it anyway.
Then I got on with the original job of replacing the expansion tank hose! Again it needed a bit of creative routing - this time to account for the lack of clearance between the tank and frame rails.
I didn't take any pics of the new hoses - it really wasn't very interesting to look at. But, if anyone wants to see how I routed the water line to avoid being pinched by the tank it's only a couple of minutes to lift the tank and snap a pic.
I was going to replace the coolant, but as it only took about 1/2pint to top off the radiator (plus same again for the expansion tank) I thought I'd leave it for a little while and check for any leaks - I bought the new coolant so it'll go in soon. A 5 litre bottle of concentrated stuff worked out cheapest, so that'll do a couple of fills.
Costs so far:
Fuel to collect = £90
Purchase = £250
Seat cover material = £3.74
Fuel hose (also used for water) = £6.71
Hose clips = £2.69
Antifreeze/coolant concentrate = £18.56
Total = £371.70
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Nice job on the seat.
Yes, removing the bottom half of the air box is the "easiest" way to access the FPR. Don't know what fuel line you used but the 5/16" FI-rated fuel line (7.9mm vs the OEM 8mm) I use works with the BMW 13mm fuel line clamps.
FYI: The name for the crimped clamps is Oetiker clamps.
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Just splitting things up a bit so it's easier to keep track - someone let me know if I shouldn't be posting this way :dunno
The hose I used was 5/16 High Pressure FI rated, twinwall reinforced - but externally it's about 14.5mm (a little more once fitted to the barbs) and I couldn't physically get the BMW clamps on. I've kept them for later though because I like the logo stamped in them.
Anyway, while the bike was apart for the new hoses, I got out the alarm and split charge. I didn't deem it worthy of taking photos - after all, all I did was remove a couple of ring terminals and 3 cable ties... I also had a look around the fuel filler and discovered a drain hole! the whole thing was choked up with moss and dirt so a bit of a scrape out and blow through means it's all working as it should now - no more water pooling around the filler and threatening to go in the tank when I open the cap.
So, revised 'to-do' list, updated to include new 'things to fix'. I might as well add the mods I'd like to carry out to this list too while I'm there.
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe. -- done
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime) -- done
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running. -- done, problem found by mistake!
4. Re-cover the seat. -- done
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken.
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler. -- done
7. Heated grips aren't working.
8. Fit fog/spot/running lights to the front.
9. Refit split charge and second battery to run accessories.
10. Fit CB/ham radio - I'd like to run CB and 2m on this if I can.
11. Cupholder! I like to carry water with me and would like it in reach but don't like it in a pocket.
There's sure to be more to add to that list...
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Fine to post here. What this sub-forum is for. :2thumbup:
Unless someone added another one, the fuel filter is in the tank.
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Cheers.
There's no additional fuel filter fitted, it's just got the in-tank one. Since buying it, I've spoken to the previous owner and he's got a new OEM fuel filter that he 'found' at home, and the bellypan which is located in another city at a friends house :laugh He had an internal leak between the water and oil pumps so he replaced all the pump seals and left the bellypan off so he could keep an eye on it for leaks etc. and to make oil/filter changes easier, then left it behind... I'll be arranging something to collect these or have them sent to me in the near future.
Right then, the windscreen/windshield/whatever you want to call it... A while ago someone tried to steal the bike but didn't notice it was locked up and dropped it. This took a chunk out of the screen on the left but fortunately didn't damage anything else (well, it mashed the end of the grip a little but I don't know if it happened then or not...).
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0795_zps6c7ae773.jpg)
While it doesn't really affect it, it looks bad (it doesn't look quite that yellow in daylight, it's a combination of artificial lighting and the background) - my thought was to trim down the screen to even it out. The line drawn on was me playing with the shape. Once I'd decided on the shape I wanted/could make I drilled a couple of holes to make cutting the plastic easier - if you've tried cutting one before you'll know just how easy it is to crack it using a saw...
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0796_zps1a25fdc6.jpg)
Once drilled and trimmed, it was just a simple matter of filing and sanding the edges smooth and then fitting to the bike.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0798_zpsafb02fbc.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0797_zps313fd7cf.jpg)
I think that looks better than when it was broken. I'd like to replace it at some point but finances currently dictate otherwise...
So, another free repair completed.
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe. -- done
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime) -- done
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running. -- done, problem found by mistake!
4. Re-cover the seat. -- done
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken. -- done
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler. -- done
7. Heated grips aren't working.
8. Fit fog/spot/running lights to the front.
9. Refit split charge and second battery to run accessories.
10. Fit CB/ham radio - I'd like to run CB and 2m on this if I can.
11. Cupholder! I like to carry water with me and would like it in reach but don't like it in a pocket.
I won't update the cost list - it hasn't changed!
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FYI: That's an aftermarket windscreen of some sort. Factory one was narrower.
Usual suspect for HGs not working is the wires coming loose on the back of the switch: Frankenduck's Switch Rehabilitation Clinic (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=336.0)
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I am starting to feel like working on my bike more. You are doing a great job. The seat looks excellent.
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I figured the screen wasn't original - I've seen another the same on here that sparked a bit of discussion... I think I've ended up with something closer to stock now (maybe a little taller?) so it shouldn't be too bad. I'll be out on it tomorrow so I'll see how shieldy/screeny it turns out to be. Can't be any worse than it was not having anything there.
Thanks for the switch info as well Duck - I've done similar 'switchectomies' in the past but hadn't considered it on this yet to be honest. That's the beauty of places like this - finding out 'common' problems and 'handy' solutions :2thumbup:
Also thanks Qdude - I find it a fantastic compliment to think I've inspired someone - even in a small way.
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Hi PDG --
Great thread, thanks for sharing all this. I need the inspiration!
Bill
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Well, screen works nicely - indicated 80mph and no chest full of wind, which was good.
Couple of terrible pics from today - had some chores and shopping to do so stopped off....
Salisbury Cathedral:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/SalisCath1_zps48bbb645.jpg)
Stonehenge:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/Stonehenge1_zps64a2aab2.jpg)
Just a shame the camera doesn't show the falling snow...
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Snow? You ride in snow? You are braver than I am.
I noticed that your cases are the first generation series with flat locks. I know that the locks are just pop-riveted in place. Maybe you can upgrade the locks at some point. Frankenduck should know if that can be done.
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No problem on upgrading the case latches. However you need to do both the lock and the catch.
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Snow isn't a problem, it's only fluffy rain after all :laugh If it had settled I would've slowed down a lot more though... As it was it was snow/sleet/rain today. I have to go quite gentle anyway as it's my first bike on the road for a number of years and I've yet to cover 150 miles on it.
Anyway - tragkorbs/cases. They need work. The latches that hold them closed are pretty worn so the front wobbles around a bit, also the latch that holds the case to the frame is worn too so you can actually remove the box without undoing the latch - hence the bungees - holds them on and closed. Oh, and one of the hinges is a bit broken.
I have been considering options for them - but neglected to add them to the to-do list... Whatever I do will be the budget option though - but I'll try to make it look alright.
The other thing I noticed today - until I saw the stonehenge picture I wasn't aware of just how poor the rear light is (yes, it's on in the picture) so that needs investigation/modification.
Rear brake lever/pedal has a lot of travel before the brake works - I assume it's just adjustment but haven't looked very closely yet.
So
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe. -- done
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime) -- done
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running. -- done, problem found by mistake!
4. Re-cover the seat. -- done
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken. -- done
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler. -- done
7. Heated grips aren't working.
8. Fit fog/spot/running lights to the front.
9. Refit split charge and second battery to run accessories.
10. Fit CB/ham radio - I'd like to run CB and 2m on this if I can.
11. Cupholder! I like to carry water with me and would like it in reach but don't like it in a pocket.
12. Adjust rear brake lever travel.
13. Crankcase breather hose.
14. Squeaky brakes. (Might be fixed now, unsure so won't strike)
15. Mirrors. I want mirrors.
16. Make rear light less dim.
17. tragkorb latches and fittings.
I think that'll do for now...
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The other thing I noticed today - until I saw the stonehenge picture I wasn't aware of just how poor the rear light is (yes, it's on in the picture) so that needs investigation/modification.
Easy, Inexpensive Tail Light Upgrade (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3317.0.html)
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Thanks again Duck, that's the sort of thing I was thinking of - except I have about 1500 or so LEDs of a mixture of colours sat about so I was considering mounting them inside the light unit with some extras to augment the brake light - and some SMD ones in the fork reflectors etc.
I thought the poor lighting was just mine :laugh
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"terrible pics" you say? Mate, you live in a remarkable part of the world. it's not every day that anyone can just slip on over to Stonehenge, and ride by architecture like that cathedral. Plus you got your bike in the shots. I say "Nice Pics!!" to you, brick brother! Brilliant work on your bike. That windshield rocks.
Over here in Japan, without the side cases on, your bike would glide right through rush hour traffic.
Nice and thin!!
Seeing pics like that makes me think i need to start posting up shots that show the joys of riding here.
:bmwsmile
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By terrible pics I was more referring to the quality of workmanship...
But anyway, I arranged to spend some actual money and ordered a new crankcase breather hose from the local BMW car dealership. Looking at it there's no sensible and easy way to get anything other than the OEM part in, plus it comes with a 2 year warranty.
As it's something most of you will have done, I'll take a picture of me doing it :tongue
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Be careful not to take too much play out of the rear pedal. It can stick, the brake overheats, and the rubber boot on the final drive catches fire. Then you stop on the side of the road and try to blow it out, only to breathe in the burning rubber fumes....don't ask me how I know.
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A K75 has a monolever final drive without a rubber boot.
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I visited BMW yesterday and collected my new crankcase breather hose and managed to find 10 minutes to fit it today.
It was certainly time to replace it.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0822_zpsb3ed3fe7.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0823_zpse8e7069f.jpg)
However, the cracks weren't actually the worst part of it...........
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0820_zpsec9fc1af.jpg)
Hmmm, it was a bit clogged. I imagine this was caused by a combination of condensation and the water pump leak that was fixed by the previous owner. I cleaned out the plenum stub the best I could and I'll just have to keep a bit of an eye on it.
I didn't have time today, but I want to see if I can have a look inside the plenum at some point to see how bad that is too - the stub from the crankcase looks clean enough.
The first start-up with the new hose was a tiny bit more difficult than it has been up to now (I possibly pushed a bit of the sludge into the plenum...) but once it caught it was fine and has started just fine a couple of times on an errand ride since, seems to run a little better and doesn't hesitate like it did when cracking the throttle from idle.
So, a worthwhile job, even though doing it found more work for later :laugh still, that's what happens buying used...
To-do
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe. -- done
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime) -- done
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running. -- done, problem found by mistake!
4. Re-cover the seat. -- done
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken. -- done
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler. -- done
7. Heated grips aren't working.
8. Fit fog/spot/running lights to the front.
9. Refit split charge and second battery to run accessories.
10. Fit CB/ham radio - I'd like to run CB and 2m on this if I can.
11. Cupholder! I like to carry water with me and would like it in reach but don't like it in a pocket.
12. Adjust rear brake lever travel.
13. Crankcase breather hose. -- done
14. Squeaky brakes.
15. Mirrors. I want mirrors.
16. Make rear light less dim.
17. tragkorb latches and fittings.
18. Inspect induction system internals.
Costs so far:
Fuel to collect = £90
Purchase = £250
Seat cover material = £3.74
Fuel hose (also used for water) = £6.71
Hose clips = £2.69
Antifreeze/coolant concentrate = £18.56
Crankcase breather hose = £9.65
Total = £381.35
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Why put the split charge back on? Hunt around for a later k1100 50 amp alternator and sling that in - I paid 15 gbp including postage for my spare!
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It's just a 'thing'... I'd rather run some accessories (possibly camping lights, stereo etc.) off a secondary battery. That way, when I fall asleep with something turned on and make the battery very, very flat, I can still start the bike.
To be honest, a 50A alternator would be good to have as well, but I don't want to rely on that alone. Just got to find one as cheap as you did.
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Well, had a little ride out the other day, went past Woodhenge (yes, Woodhenge - it's an actual place) and got some extremely silly looking hair in the wind... Then we went out into Salisbury Plain for a bit of a bimble round.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0835_zps67972085.jpg)
It was the longest 'single' trip I've done on the bike so far, I'm now certain I need to replace the handlebars with something a little higher, a little further back and a little wider (just under an inch or so minimum for each direction).
Anyway, went into town today and just before getting there I noticed the battery/charge light was lit. I carried on into the car park and went to the appointment I was heading for. I had a look when I came back out so I could decide whether to call a breakdown service (and wait a couple of hours to be told they couldn't fix it, then wait another couple of hours for something to tow the bike) or whether I could get home as it was. Here's what I found:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0844_zps477b3042.jpg)
See all those little black lumpy bits? That'll be my alternator cush drive rubbers not doing what they should :nono
I'd started the engine to move it from undercover (dark), then started it again to determine that the alternator wasn't turning with the engine. So I decided the best course of action was to live with no lights in the rain and just get home on the battery if I could...
Those redtop batteries seem good anyway, running with no alternator with lights for maybe 10 minutes, 4 starts and then an 8 mile ride and the engine cut just as I was parking at home.
Looks like another job for the list.... I'll balance the cost of any new parts I need when I get it apart against just going for an alternator upgrade now.
So, updated to-do:
1. Replace perished coolant expansion/overflow pipe. -- done
2. Remove non-functioning aftermarket alarm system and split charge controller (latter to be replaced sometime) -- done
3. Investigate and rectify mild smell of fuel present after running. -- done, problem found by mistake!
4. Re-cover the seat. -- done
5. Do 'something' about the screen which had been broken. -- done
6. Figure out why there was always water pooling under/around the fuel filler. -- done
7. Heated grips aren't working.
8. Fit fog/spot/running lights to the front.
9. Refit split charge and second battery to run accessories.
10. Fit CB/ham radio - I'd like to run CB and 2m on this if I can.
11. Cupholder! I like to carry water with me and would like it in reach but don't like it in a pocket.
12. Adjust rear brake lever travel.
13. Crankcase breather hose. -- done
14. Squeaky brakes.
15. Mirrors. I want mirrors.
16. Make rear light less dim.
17. tragkorb latches and fittings.
18. Inspect induction system internals.
19. Repair or replace alternator.
20. Replace handlebars with some more suited to my position.
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Hmm, that sucks! Luckily you were able to get home. Looking forward to learn from your alternator swap/repair anyway :2thumbup:
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Just a swap of parts to repair it or change it to a 50A unit from a later/bigger K is easy - I have a feeling I'm going to complicate matters though...
I found another 'to-do' as well. The rubber mount for the battery tray aren't screwed into the top of the transmission housing like they should be, looks like the threads are stripped out - the battery has to come out to get to the alternator so I'll look at that while I'm in there.
21. Fix battery tray mounts.
The list might be fairly long, but that's what you get for buying a 25 year old, 80,000 mile bike with no history for a third of the 'usual' price.
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My bike is the same... No history and also on the cheap side. As you can read in my topic, I found some suspicious things in the oil today...
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Hmm, this is a slight discomfort in the posterior then.
The alternator cush drive is a little worn, both rubber and metal:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0846_zps59228ef3.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/PICT0849_zps5e046ae1.jpg)
I'm pretty sure they shouldn't look like that :laugh
Now I have a decision to make - obviously the rubbers will be new, but do I get used parts (dog and cup) or new from BMW? Used (from motorworks) are half the price of new and have a 6 month warranty, but the new ones come with a 2 year warranty... (I'm talking to myself, it's a rhetorical question)
But, see my question in the workshop...
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Wow. That looks to be a rather extreme case there. I've read of the cup part getting damaged often enough that I have a spare on hand "just in case" whenever I get to changing the rubbers on mine. The cup is inexpensive and due to the frequency I've read of them going when the rubber goes, I would recommend a new part there. I'd never read about or seen the male bit getting chewed up, but it makes sense if the rubber was ground away completely like that it would have to give eventually. Too bad that male part is pricier. Imagine all the spare electrons you'll have access to once this is back together. :2thumbup:
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Right then, got the driving dog retaining bolt out (as detailed in the workshop thread) and it brought most of the threads from the shaft with it...
So, either bigger bolt or helicoil - still not a big challenge by itself. To fit all the tools in to do that (and remove the dog due to my puller issues) it looks like I'll be dropping the engine and splitting the cases.
Before all this I thought I'd give the bike a bit of a wash again (it was filthy when I got it, trying to get it all clean in one go wasn't going to happen) and I found out why the brakes are binding occasionally. On the front brakes 3 of the 4 pads have a little problem - the friction material is coming away from the backplate. Looks to me (I can confirm when I get them out) that some moisture got in somehow and the backplate has rusted and then pushed the linings away. It feels like the rear has done the same.
That'll be new brake pads needed too then.
Anyone want to wager on whether the caliper pistons/seals are going to be up to being retracted to fit new pads?
Plus all the rubber brake hoses are dated 1986 so are original and I just know if I disturb anything they'll split just to taunt me.
So......
I give in.
This bloody thing is coming apart and getting the shock of it's life. I was going to do a little bit here and there as I got time but it seems that every time I touch it to fix one thing I find something else (or 3 something elses). Might as well just tear into it.
Watch this space.
(Not too closely, time is sparse at the moment)
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Hooray. makeover makeover !!
I feel for you and have been watching,...
Please know that there are others who are digging in to their bikes as well, you are not alone !!
It will all be worth it, Always has been for me.
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So, been a while.....
I've done lots and not much.
Alternator is back in and being all spinny - it's even making eleckertrickery which is usually a good thing for an alternator to do.
New brake pads are in and so much better than the old ones - mega cheap too.
Fitted some mirrors - used some Yamaha ones I found.
Rear shock replaced with a shorter unit I got off ebay, dropped the front a little to balance out the geometry slightly.
Got a new MOT on it, one advisory for the little ding in the front wheel - other than that it flew through.
Probably a couple of other little bits I can't remember right now...
Pics and more details later on.
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Not really any more interesting bits done - did an oil service and spline lube though.
Made a 'ghetto' centre stand from some blocks, a jack and a big wrecking bar :2thumbup:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/stand_zps531df6eb.jpg)
Rear splines:
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/femalespline2_zps44a2cda3.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/femalespline1_zps273fa45b.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/malespline_zps9b0d8535.jpg)
Don't look all that bad to me.
I'll probably change the mirrors soon. Maybe fit something fairing mounted as I want to use some handlebar muffs over winter.
I also took it on a trip to Wales, couple of hundred miles or so and it performed flawlessly, as expected. Only one photo (that I stole off someone else) though as it was absolutely torrential rain / thunder / lightning all the way there, during, and all the way back. The trusty old cheng shin tyres didn't let me down either :hehehe And, it returned just over 60mpg too.
Just see the K peeking out at the back from the selection of wet bikes.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/s403x403/1379856_10152020803519363_881301513_n.jpg)
Nearly forgot - while in Wales one of the people I met up with was the previous owner, he very kindly transported the belly pan for me on the back of his bike (still getting bits after 9 months) and we got that professionally fitted with some zip ties. Stayed on all the way back down the motorway though.
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Had me chucking with a few of your comments.
With the neglect you bike seems to have suffered over the years I'd think you might what to put high on your list to lube the clutch splines especially if you get some dodgy shifts and hard down shifts.
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The previous owner replaced the clutch before I got the bike. By all accounts there wasn't much wrong with it when he got it apart but he'd already bought the parts so put the new one in anyway...
Don't really get any dodgy shifts to be honest - it's not exactly silky smooth but downshifts are done without any hassle or undue pressure. There's not much in the way of backlash either, certainly no worse than a properly adjusted chain drive.
At some point in the near future I'm planning on blasting and repainting the frame so while it's off the engine I was going to pull the gearbox and just have a check/lube in there too.
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So, my wheels............
Front one has a ding in (which I knew about) and the rear, well, ~ springs to mind (found out just how bad during recent service activities - no wonder people have been pulling up to me at the lights and telling me about my rear wheel :yes)... According to the PO, the rear brake caliper made a bid for freedom by losing a bolt. I bet that was fun.
I've been keeping an eye out for a while for some reasonably priced wheels to make an appearance and a rear turned up on ebay - got it for £21 delivered. It's not a K75 wheel though. It's not a K anything wheel......
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/rearwheelleft_zps1bd6c0a8.jpg)
It's from an R 1100 RS. Fits straight on, lines up as well as the original wheel. It's a little wider - going up from a 2.75" to a 4.5". Got a little bit of clearance to play with.
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz267/pdg555/k75s/rearwheelclearance_zpsb9c72507.jpg)
Only thing is it's an 18" instead of a 17" - no real hardship but means tyres are a little harder to find.
Watch this space to see how much the tyre rubs the swingarm....
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Ok, so that rubbing tyre issue.
Guess what?
It doesn't!
(http://i.imgur.com/KQf22Ra.jpg)
A 150/70r18 MT90 mounted on an R1100RS wheel goes straight in with plenty of clearance.
A 110/80r18 BT on the front means I'm now rolling on radials which has made an astounding difference to the handling. Very little tracking of road repairs etc. - it goes where I point it. The rear tyre does completely outgrip the front though, so when another cheap part-worn front in the right size turns up I'll be trying that. I don't want to splash out on a new tyre for a couple of reasons -- I'd rather trial tyres for a couple of pounds rather than spend nearly 100 and not like it at all - and - the front wheel still has that dent (no, it hasn't fixed itself yet) so I don't know what is going to replace it. I'd like a 19" but it depends what turns up.
On a slightly less 'happy bunny' note - the rear shock decided oil damping was for wimps and it would like to try air damping for a change - so it puked all it's oil out, bloody everywhere. Honestly, very little if any difference to the handling..... It must've been more knackered than I thought!
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Well I've had the bike for a year now, some stuff has broken (not surprising considering the age) but it's all been relatively easy to fix. Even so, it's not actually let me down or failed to get me home.
Now I've had a decent chance to see what I like and what I don't like about it, I'm playing with ideas of what direction to take. With that in mind, I think it's time to end the updates to this thread seeing as it's not going to be very relevant any more.
It's been....... emotional :riding: See you in the next thread.
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Hi pdg... Did you ever get your 2m rig to work on your K75? I am thinking of placing a half wave dipole (no ground plane needed) on mine but wondering what your experience was (if you are still around!)... :bmwsmile
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Yes I'm still a round (well, getting rounder.....)
I haven't actually found a suitable rig yet, so haven't got anything fitted.
But, I've had radios on bikes before, mainly CB but the theory is the same.
Things I found out:
Put a springy mount on it - I snapped a rear mounted fibreglass whip by forgetting it was there and kicking it across a car park getting off the bike!
Use the frame as the ground plane for an end fed 1/4wave (or maybe 3/4 on 2m for a little extra gain). If there's enough mass to balance a 1/4~ 11m whip on a 50cc bike, I'm sure a K would have no issues on 2m.
Make sure your wiring (and especially earthing) is good. I think the FI unit would be fine, but there's no point testing it with a shedload of spurious RF.
Treat it as a local use thing so run low power (see above, under 50W would be more than enough) - you don't want to be trying to catch a flaky DX while avoiding sunday driving granny looking the other way ;)
Be interesting to know how you get on.
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Hi pdg... I've got a couple of options for transceivers, but we have distracted driving laws here, so not a good idea to be transmitting while driving (even VOX). I have discarded the 1/2 wave dipole idea in favour of testing a 1/4, 1/2 or 5/8 end fed vertical. The grounding will be direct to the frame and output power of my rigs are not more than 20W anyway, no DX on 2M for me. When I get some time off from fence building and other "honey do" tasks I'll test out some of these options and let you know what the results are.
A close friend has a Honda Goldwing and is coming to visit from British Columbia within 2 months, so I'll be testing out his CB stuff also (do have some decent test equipment). Thanks for getting back, when I have results, will post, but don't hold your breath for too long... 73...
Eric...