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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: NickAndHisBrick on November 18, 2012, 01:11:06 PM
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So currently the battery is out of the bike but i wanted to run it because it hasnt been run since i moved it to the new shop.
I put the ecu back in, ran the nuts tight on the battery cables, clamped on some jumper cables and hooked them up to my car.
The battery in the car is 700cca's and the car was running ... yet i had to rev the car to get the Bimmer to start ! Cranked fine, fuel pump ran, injectors clicked, just didnt seam to have spark. Verified 3 times in a row that i had to rev the car for the Bimmer to start. verified 12.4v @ idle on the car.
Bimmer defiantly cranked faster with the car revved though.
I'll repeat this whole thing next week with a helper just to double check kinda hard to hold a meter, hold a throttle body arm and start a bike with only 2 hands.
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Just got done replacing the alternator in the above mentioned car. Battery light has always flickered once or twice a week + during over revving (brush float) but last tuesday or such it started flickering constantly.
Turns out the brushes were worn to their limits and one of the slip rings was worn right through.
Ill see if the car will start the Bimmer again some time this week.
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FYI: Don't start the bike and let it idle just to see if it runs. These bikes are designed to be ridden, not idled. so if you let it sit and idle for a while it will foul the plugs. If you have an owners manual it will tell you to start the bike and ride it. No 'wamr-up" is required. Its not a Camry.
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FYI: Don't start the bike and let it idle just to see if it runs. These bikes are designed to be ridden, not idled. so if you let it sit and idle for a while it will foul the plugs. If you have an owners manual it will tell you to start the bike and ride it. No 'wamr-up" is required. Its not a Camry.
To add onto this: these bikes like to idle pig rich. Like 12-13:1.
Even a Camry doesn't need and should not be warmed up. Water cooled engines are best warmed up by riding gently, avoiding high load or rpm. Air cooled engines should be warmed a bit, as moving air slows their warmup (the thermostat in the brick prevents this), and tolerances are tighter at cold conditions.
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I would have ridden it if it had a battery in it. I wont run a vehicle on the alternator alone for any longer then it takes to SWAP a battery, Im not about to go earn myself the honor of pushing a K-brick 3 miles back to the shop. lol
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To add onto this: these bikes like to idle pig rich. Like 12-13:1.
Even a Camry doesn't need and should not be warmed up. Water cooled engines are best warmed up by riding gently, avoiding high load or rpm. Air cooled engines should be warmed a bit, as moving air slows their warmup (the thermostat in the brick prevents this), and tolerances are tighter at cold conditions.
This would explain the rich fuel smell when I start my bike when it's cold even if I don't use the choke.........right? Tell me that's right. My bike had a major service done about 8,000 miles ago so I'm pretty sure everything is in spec although I'm pretty sure the throttle bodies need to be balanced (which is on my to-do list soon)
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There is no choke on these bikes. Its a "Choke" which is really just a fast idle cam. Enrichment is handled by the computer.
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I would have ridden it if it had a battery in it. I wont run a vehicle on the alternator alone for any longer then it takes to SWAP a battery, Im not about to go earn myself the honor of pushing a K-brick 3 miles back to the shop. lol
Not a good idea to run anything with engine electronics for any time at all without a battery connected. The ignition and engine control units can fry in the blink of an eye. The voltage can spike to well over 20 volts and hey presto deep fried silicone chips.
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A bigass capacitor would work, or even a bad battery. You just need something.