MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: iiXioM on October 02, 2012, 03:00:31 PM
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Good day all! I have to say this forum is turning into my K-Bike bible!
So here's my question:
Just picked up an 87 K75s literally 24 hours ago. What can i use to clean up dirt/grime/mud/25 yrs of gunk and crap off the bike? The tools are all greasy, and would just like to clean it up overall. What can i use that won't cause anything to rust, flake, or destroy the current state of paint?
Does anyone have a link to show how to change the transmission/final drive oil? I seem to have a hard time doing so.
Last but not least...are there any fixes to the gauges to get the mileage tracker thing working again other than buying a new cluster?
Thanks!
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Wheel cleaner on the wheels.
Gunk on the trans and swing arm.
Cleaner wax on paint.
Pledge on vinyl seats.
PlastX on windscreens.
Trans oil change: General maintenance tips. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=339.0)
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Wheel cleaner on the wheels.
Gunk on the trans and swing arm.
Cleaner wax on paint.
Pledge on vinyl seats.
PlastX on windscreens.
Trans oil change: General maintenance tips. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=339.0)
Really that simple to wash the crud off? Wow...i feel dumb. lol.
As far as the Trans oil change...I see the cut outs but can't tell where the drain/fill plugs are. Or maybe i'm not looking at it correctly. Is it really just drain oil fluid and refill with new? Nothing special?
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Last but not least...are there any fixes to the gauges to get the mileage tracker thing working again other than buying a new cluster?
You can buy the odometer unit for about $100 from BMW -- part number 62 11 2 305 175
Installation is fussy but not difficult if you're patient and take time to see how things are put together.
This repair was one of the first things I did to my '85 K100.
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Odometer repair viability depends on the cause of failure. Can be caused by:
1. Poor connections - clean with Detoxit
2. Broken gears - replacements can be got, but may be easier to find new unit
3. Broken solder joint - simple to fix if you can solder, the hard part is finding the connection causing the problem. My bike had an intermittent odo, eventually traced to a broken wire to the stepper motor.
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Odometer repair viability depends on the cause of failure. Can be caused by:
1. Poor connections - clean with Detoxit
2. Broken gears - replacements can be got, but may be easier to find new unit
3. Broken solder joint - simple to fix if you can solder, the hard part is finding the connection causing the problem. My bike had an intermittent odo, eventually traced to a broken wire to the stepper motor.
I have a feeling this bike has broken gears in the cluster. Any idea where i can find a new set? The bike has been fairly well maintained so i dont think its bad connections or anything, though i will check that out nonetheless.
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Lookup Overseas Speedometer.
They can replace the gears for you.
But it will cost you .
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What can i use to clean up dirt/grime/mud/25 yrs of gunk and crap off the bike?
Purple Power and Oomph degreasers worked well for me. That will get rid of the majority of grease and oil off your bike's surface. Also, grade 00 steal wool will work well for your wheels and even rusty areas without scratching them up. The stains in your metal might have to be buffed out.
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What can i use to clean up dirt/grime/mud/25 yrs of gunk and crap off the bike?
Purple Power and Oomph degreasers worked well for me. That will get rid of the majority of grease and oil of your bike's surface. Also, grade 00 steal wool will work well for your wheels and even rusty areas without scratching them up. The stains in your metal might have to be buffed out.
I just got some Purple Power today. I'm hoping it works out well.
I just got around to working on this bike finally.
Flushed Coolant - The junk in there was all muddy/brownish colored. ran a whole gallon of distilled water to clean it up a bit
Oil/filter changed - Also junk. it was pitch black.
Going to be changing out the spark plugs in the morning. one thing i cant find anywhere....is there any specific gap measurement i need to set them to? I got the Bosch X5DC's.
Thanks!
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Going to be changing out the spark plugs in the morning. one thing i cant find anywhere....is there any specific gap measurement i need to set them to? I got the Bosch X5DC's.
You can find that in the Clymer Manual (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0892878312/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0892878312&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) :)
Mine says:
Recommended 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 inches)
Maximum Gap Limit 0.9 mm (0.036 inches)
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Going to be changing out the spark plugs in the morning. one thing i cant find anywhere....is there any specific gap measurement i need to set them to? I got the Bosch X5DC's.
You can find that in the Clymer Manual (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0892878312/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0892878312&linkCode=as2&tag=cinematographyco) :)
Mine says:
Recommended 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 inches)
Maximum Gap Limit 0.9 mm (0.036 inches)
I could have sworn i read through the spark plug section of the book and i saw it said max limit was 0.9 mm, but there wasn't anything about the recommended measurements. Thanks alot, i must be already going blind at 26. lol
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Don't forget to flush the brake fluid.
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Don't forget to flush the brake fluid.
Yeah, most definitely. Is there anything special in doing so? Can i completely drain out the brake fluid, and then refill, making sure no bubbles are in it? I'm under the impression that completely draining the fluid empty causes some type of issue with the lines. I read that a few years back somewhere. Perhaps im misinformed, and thats exactly how to do it.
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ABS or non-ABS?
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Don't remove the fluid from the lines first. Remove the fluid from the master cylinder and add new to it. Start bleeding at either the ABS modulator or caliper and keep adding fresh fluid to the M/C making sure not to let it run dry or suck air down into the lines. Do this until you get fresh fluid at the calipers. Do both calipers. If you started at the modulator (unnecessary IMHO) move down to the calipers after fresh fluid appears and continue.
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ABS or non-ABS?
Non-ABS
Don't remove the fluid from the lines first. Remove the fluid from the master cylinder and add new to it. Start bleeding at either the ABS modulator or caliper and keep adding fresh fluid to the M/C making sure not to let it run dry or suck air down into the lines. Do this until you get fresh fluid at the calipers. Do both calipers. If you started at the modulator (unnecessary IMHO) move down to the calipers after fresh fluid appears and continue.
Ah thats it...don't let air get in the lines, thats what i remember reading some time ago. Awesome, i'll definitely try this out, sounds fairly simple. Thanks alot guys, great help!
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Brake Bleeding instructions (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/brake-bleed.shtml) from the K-bike iBMWr.org HowTo Page. (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml)
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Turn the handlebars(and if needed rotate the throttle perch) to make sure the little hole in the master cylinder is the high point.