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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: TimTyler on August 22, 2012, 11:41:27 AM
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To remove the front wheel, is it always necessary to detach and suspend the brake calipers first? (as described by Clymers)
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Yes. Otherwise you can't get the wheel out.
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Thanks.
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Hi,
I can't get my wheel off. I've taken off the calipers, undone the main nut on the axle and taken out the locking screws. I can't turn the axel at all. I've tried hitting the other end as hard as I dare to drive the axle out, but it hasn't moved at all. Any advice would be more than welcome, thanks.
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I'd suggest soaking it with some penetrating fluid. Is it sticking in the fork bottoms, or in the wheel bearings.
Does your axle shaft have a 3/16" hole in the protruding end, that you can place a screwdriver in to try and rotate the shaft as you remove it?
The reason I ask, I know the later ones have this, but not sure of the older ones.
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+1
Can you find something to wedge in the gaps at the bottom of the fork sliders to help?
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Support the front of the bike from under the engine.
Loosen the four clamping screws on the fork bridge (triple tree) and the fork stabilizer (connects the left and right fork at fender).
When you put it all back together, put the axle in first before you tighten anything else.
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I had another bike where the axel had rusted to the wheel bearings. Brute force was my only alternative. Once the threads were clear I used proper sized drift and a F**KING big hammer to get the sucker out. Then lots of anti-sieze on reassembly. Hope you don't have to resort to such drastic measures.
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Support the front of the bike from under the engine.
Loosen the four clamping screws on the fork bridge (triple tree) and the fork stabilizer (connects the left and right fork at fender).
When you put it all back together, put the axle in first before you tighten anything else.
My friend, an airhead mechanic aficionado, performs that ritual every time he removes/installs his wheel. The goal is to achieve such perfect axle-to-fork perpendicularity that the axle will practically float through the fork slider, wheel, and opposite fork slider.
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So another trick some have used is to tighten the top triple tree bolts and lightly tighten all the other bolts, except axle, which should be tight and bounce the front wheel a couple of times to align all the forks and center everything. Never tried it myself, but understand the principle.
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And it never hurts to apply some heat. Often that exterior expansion will break the bonds and help you out. If you have an electric heat gun and a thermography gun that would be ideal. I think you could put a fair bit of heat to that part of the bike without fear of damage. Often penetrating oil, heat and some physical persuasion are the perfect combo to move things in the mechanical world. Just be careful of whacking things that have been cast and are made of metal!