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MOTOBRICK MARKETPLACE => FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear => Topic started by: wmax351 on August 19, 2012, 12:25:34 AM
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They are ready. This thread is a work in progress, as I transfer all the instructions and details to this thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2296.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2296.0.html)
Ordering info:
Update: Currently, I am quite busy with medical school, and I don't foresee having time in the future to assemble these. If someone is interested in taking over, I could sell the lot of the partially assembled kits to someone with skills and interest in assembling and selling the rest, as well as enough circuit boards for 50 or so more.
I can also sell the kits individually: people who've expressed interest in an assembled one get priority on these kits. They can be assembled with basic electronics soldering skills.
The cost for the kits is $50 (clearance sale) plus $8 shipping , to the Continental US. Elsewhere, email me first, and I can give you the exact cost.
My paypal email is: maxwell.witt (at) berkeley.edu.
Includes:
Kit consisting of main board and display
Wire
Case
Screws for case
Buttons
Cable gland
3 posi-taps
A connector for the fuel injector (so the injector harness doesn't need tapped)
Instructions
I will also post source code here shortly. There are some extra inputs/outputs that can be used (for eggheads).
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Done. Sweet!
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There ya go Max, sticky until you get sick off making them!
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Well, they've been selling well. The first few that I finished have sold. But more are on the way, pending my time on the weekends. Should be able to crank out a few more this weekend.
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got it in the mail today! very excited!!
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7860285818_0b567acbc8.jpg)
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Any reports back? Hope the gauges are working well.
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Not installed yet as still have omly one arm to work with and I am really hanging out for a ride.
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I'm sorry to say I've yet to fit mine either. I've been re-thinking where I will mount it. I first thought I'd use strong 3M Hook and Loop stuff to fit in on the pad over the handlebars and run the wires through a rocker switch port. I started to have second thoughts about that spot after I realized that would make removal of the pad for some maintenance problematic. I'm now thinking I'll put in on a mount secured on the handlebars themselves. I found a very narrow fitting that is designed to hold a mirror stem. I think I can use that in conjunction with a short stem ( a bit of bar stock) attached to some GPS mounting device, suitably modified for your instrument. If that proves to work, I'll be regretting asking for the configuration where the wires exit the box on top :dunno2:
Stay tuned.
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what are the dimensions of the display box
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what are the dimensions of the display box
4.4 X 2.4 X 1.1 inches. The Cable Gland pokes out a bit more from either the bottom or top.
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I'm working on adding a air temperature sensor. I'm doing a prototype for an order I have. If it works out, I can retrofit others if desired, or send a kit if someone is handy with a soldering iron.
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Max, thanks for taking on this challenge.
I'm in for a "Max MPG" kit to be installed on my R1150R Rockster. Didn't see much action within your ADV Vendors thread (aside from the usual inmate banter), so maybe I can help spread the word in Oilhead circles.
We'll need to chat about the physical install for my bike, as I intend to replace OE clock that's part of the instrument module. LCD board dimensions will be limiting factor, and I'll need to separate LCD and switches from PIC board to make it all work.
I started work on a Picaxe project with similar capabilities, plus clock function based on NMEA serial output from GPS puck... Will put that idea on hold.
Making the daring assumption that the AMP connectors for R1150** are same as K bikes. Basis: my bike's air box temp connector is identical to fuel injector connector, and from your reference to Poolside's IICE Air project.
I have a TTL speedometer signal for the MPG input, plus the speedometer's turn signal cancel output. The TTL comes from a programmable frequency divider that I'm using to condition wheel speed sensor output, as required for my iABS-ectomy (aka "xABS"): square wave to freq divider to analog filter... Those elements could be incorporated into your Pic, but I don't think either of us would want to spend the time.
So we might need to discuss offline re: kit items. PM me here or on ADV or R1150R.org for phone number.
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These are still available. I have about 10 left.
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These are still available. I have about 10 left.
Sorry Max, I'll take one....
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I've now had a chance to put some miles on the one I installed on my 1985 K100RS and could not be more pleased with it. Highly recommended!
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Bump
I plan on moving soon, so I might not be able to make these for much longer. I've still got about a ten partially assembled units. I'll put them on clearance sale while I can still assemble them for the next month or so. I'd take 45+shipping for a partially assembled one with everything, or 65 + shipping for an assembled one.
Also, if anyone who has one needs a new faceplate due to scratching, I can send a replacement.
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Message sent
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I'm back in CA for a few weeks, so I can build units for people.
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Has anyone figured out where to put one on a RT or LT? Pictures of one mounted?
thanks.
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I've now had a chance to put some miles on the one I installed on my 1985 K100RS and could not be more pleased with it. Highly recommended!
Lawrence, I have a 1985 K100 RS with an RT fairing. Could you provide details on what you finally used to mount your Wmax, and perhaps a picture if it's not too much trouble? I'm also thinking of using a handlebar mount. Thanks much.
Rogan
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have you restarted your "production" for a K75 unit?
Thanks
vince
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I've been stalled while working on med school apps. I hope to do them this winter, though.
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put me on your list, Good luck with the Med apps I know it's a tough road..
Vince
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+1 for K75, when you've got the time.
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Update: And the last of the secondary apps are in. So I should have some time to work on these now!
Got two interviews so far as well!
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Kudos, and best of luck on your interviews. :clap:
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Not sure if these are still selling but I would be interested. Would you ship to Britain?
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Unfortunately, I really haven't had any time to work on these. I might just start selling the un-assembled sets I have, they can be put together with basic soldering.
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You know, I actually have an arduino at home with the lcd attachment. I actually often use arduinos for projects. I am guessing this is just an arduino uno with an lcd fitted into a case? Would you consider sharing the code I might be able to replicate it here. Otherwise I would be happy to purchase one of your unassembled kits. Merry Christmas BTW.
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That's basically it. The main thing I did was make it water-resistant and tweak the code. It's based off of an Mpguino.
The code and schematics are attached.
Here's the site with some more info on the stock mpguino hardware and software.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino
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Awesome thanks. I will make sure to share any useful modifications I make.
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Currently, I am quite busy with medical school, and I don't foresee having time in the future to assemble these. If someone is interested in taking over, I could sell the lot of the partially assembled kits to someone with skills and interest in assembling and selling the rest, as well as enough circuit boards for 50 or so more.
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Curiosity alone made me decipher that post in its tiny secret agent spy font...
for those interested
Currently, I am quite busy with medical school, and I don't foresee having time in the future to assemble these. If someone is interested in taking over, I could sell the lot of the partially assembled kits to someone with skills and interest in assembling and selling the rest, as well as enough circuit boards for 50 or so more.
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formatted for us old folks...
modify but can't delete...?
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Currently, I am quite busy with medical school, and I don't foresee having time in the future to assemble these. If someone is interested in taking over, I could sell the lot of the partially assembled kits to someone with skills and interest in assembling and selling the rest, as well as enough circuit boards for 50 or so more.
I would if there was more interest but even in the UK K bikes are getting pretty rare, I don't think there would be enough demand. I actually thought about making a combined MPG gauge and aftermarket instrument converter all in one using the Mega.
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Youngengineer, you could get a good start on that project by combining the work that Max has done using the MGPuino as a base and the work I've done on my TGPI board using the Brickuino as a base. My design is open source so you can obtain the documentation for it from my Google drive.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3UPbNZRyr1rd2JrNGI0UHBsOTA (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3UPbNZRyr1rd2JrNGI0UHBsOTA)
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Currently, I am quite busy with medical school, and I don't foresee having time in the future to assemble these. If someone is interested in taking over, I could sell the lot of the partially assembled kits to someone with skills and interest in assembling and selling the rest, as well as enough circuit boards for 50 or so more.
Do you still have the partially assembled versions available individually?
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Youngengineer, you could get a good start on that project by combining the work that Max has done using the MGPuino as a base and the work I've done on my TGPI board using the Brickuino as a base. My design is open source so you can obtain the documentation for it from my Google drive.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3UPbNZRyr1rd2JrNGI0UHBsOTA (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3UPbNZRyr1rd2JrNGI0UHBsOTA)
Awesome thanks. I will have a look tonight.
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Do you still have the partially assembled versions available individually?
I do. Need to count exactly how many I have though.
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Please let us/me know the price and purchase instructions for the unfinished kits (I'll benefit from instructions too).
Thank you,
Tom
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Sorry, been busy the last month. There's a lot of parts of the GI and endocrine system to memorize.
I'll try to get the kits unpacked sometime this weekend. Don't want to sell more than I have available.
For the individual unfinished kits, I was figuring 50 + $8 shipping.
Instructions wise, Here's the basic set. See attached pictures as well:
1. Solder input wires to input header points. Insert from the side with the the circuitry (see pics).
2. Install buttons into clear front panel. The buttons will be on the left side.
3. Install wires from buttons to header, with a common ground for the buttons. The header connection for the buttons is labeled 123 and GND. The top button, which I use for left movement in menus, is pin 1 on the header. It is equivalent to A3 on the arduino. The remaining pins are A4 and A5 respectively.
4. Solder button wires
5. Using 2-3 of the short nylon spacers and the screws/nuts to separate the boards, slide the display onto the header pins, and tighten the nuts to finger-tight, holding the display board firmly in place. Then solder the header pins to the board. Optionally, clip the extra header pins with a wire-cutter.
6. Test assembly, by applying power to the +12v line and the GND line. You can use any power supply 6-24 volts. I usually use a 11V model aircraft battery for convenience since they're next to my work-table, but a 9V smoke detector type battery is a good option as well. Test the buttons, and all functions. Note the orientation of the display.
7. Remove nuts and screws. Insert screws into clear face. Slide the 4 long nylon spacers onto the screws, then insert the screws into the display holes, slipping the remaining short spacers into the space between boards, ensuring the screw goes through the center. Add washers and nuts. You may want a little blue thread-lock here. If you plan on having lots of wet riding, you may also wish to put a little RTV under the screws' heads before tightening.
8. Measure and cut/drill the hole for the cord grip on one of the sides of the box. Place the nut in the box, and trace the hole before cutting. The fit is tight, and you may need to slot the top of the nut to fit the front piece on at the end. Insert and tighten.
9. Heat-shrink the wires starting a couple inches from the board. Run them through the cord grip, leaving a little slack to install the cover. Tighten the cord grip nut (outside part) to seal the passage.
10. Use screws included in enclosure to close. The pictures attached are the one I had on my bike. There is an extra blue wire leading to one of the breakouts for the atmega chip. This was for a wideband O2 sensor I had set up.
Here's some more info on the backbone of the system. http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino
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That's basically it. The main thing I did was make it water-resistant and tweak the code. It's based off of an Mpguino.
The code and schematics are attached.
Here's the site with some more info on the stock mpguino hardware and software.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino (http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino)
I've just finished getting all the physical components soldered up and everything into the enclosure, just waiting on the switches now. I've now moved onto the code now but it seems to be causing errors when loading up your code into the IDE. Did you use 1.6 or the latter 1.8 IDE?
Also I am guessing that the provided code will be customized for you three cylinder K75? Would the output volume per injector be the same between the K75 and K11? I assume its just a case of updating the number of cylinders in the firmware?
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The K11's just have an extra injector. The microseconds/gallon for the k11 is 430,275,000.
I don't recall what ide version I used. I attached both the ino and the Hex files for the standard code. IIRC, I just burned the hex files onto the chips with separate software, production line style.
Edit: Looks like the first problem is that the file needs to be changed to an underscore instead of a space
Make sure the appropriate include files are present if you're not using the arduino app
Does the ISP system you have work? Some of them can be kinda wonky.
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The K11's just have an extra injector. The microseconds/gallon for the k11 is 430,275,000.
I don't recall what ide version I used. I attached both the ino and the Hex files for the standard code. IIRC, I just burned the hex files onto the chips with separate software, production line style.
Edit: Looks like the first problem is that the file needs to be changed to an underscore instead of a space
Make sure the appropriate include files are present if you're not using the arduino app
Does the ISP system you have work? Some of them can be kinda wonky.
Thanks for the fast reply. I did actually manage to load up the original .ino file with the online arduino IDE.
But as you pointed out, without the space it loads up just fine with the latest 1.8.5 IDE.
Can I just confirm the exact changes I must make to the code for the K11? I would usually be happy to experiment but it will be difficult to remove and update due to my mounting solution.
Where is the Microsec/Gallon defined?
405ul, 0ul, 0ul, 0ul };//default values for K75 ??
Also I would assume that the total tank volume would need to be updated? Tank size seems very small for the K75 tanksize *= 3.785
3.7 US gallons is only 14L?
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You shouldn't need to edit the code at all, just the configuration on first start (or with subsequent adjustment). You could alter the default if you wished though. The instruction PDF has details on the configuration, but the third value you adjust in the configuration menu will be the microseconds per gallon, 573700000ul for the k75, 430,275,000 for the K11/k100. The default tank size is 5.400 gallons.
unsigned long parms[] = { 55ul, 9240ul, 573700000ul, 2ul, 420000000ul, 5400ul, 405ul, 0ul, 0ul, 0ul};
//default values for K75
char * parmLabels[] = { "Contrast", "VSS Pulses/Mile", "MicroSec/Gallon", "Pulses/2 revs", "Timout(microSec)", "Tank Gal * 1000", "Injector DelayuS", "VSS Delay ms", "InjTrg 0-Dn 1-Up", "Metric (1=yes)"
};
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Thank you. I will report back when complete.