MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Nessmuk on August 14, 2012, 04:26:07 AM
-
Hi.
In a couple of weeks I'll hopefully be tidying up having just successfully carried out a full spline lube on my K100RT. To try and cut down on the number of show stoppers I'm reading up on what needs to be done and found this post on the K75 http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1924.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1924.0.html) that says you don't need to remove the headers on the K75 for the spline lube.
Does that mean that you *definitely* need to remove them on the K100? My bike has an aftermarket exhaust, a Motad I think. Does that change things?
The headers (downpipes in the UK) look like they've not been off in some time and exhaust studs always make me nervous!
Simon.
-
I have done the K75 without removing the headers and the same for the k100 but the muffler does have to come off especially on the K100.
If you haven't had the mufler off before you need to know that a new gasget will be needed. It's a tubular thing that goes into the front of the muffler and over the headers where they join and usually gets destroyed as you take it apart. You can do as I have and use a sheet of .4mm steel to make a gasget that will stay intact but it has to be a good fit.
-
a new gasget will be needed.
Only on K75s. No such thing on a K100.
-
..... My bike has an aftermarket exhaust, a Motad I think. Does that change things?
I've not seen one of those, so it's really your call.
-
Thanks for the replies.
I was expecting to have to wing it a bit. Reading up shows it to look straightforward enough, just a lot to remove. Luckily I'm able to 'borrow' a garage to do the work in so I can spread it over a couple of days if needed. Got a few days off work to do it as well.
Simon.
-
a new gasget will be needed.
Only on K75s. No such thing on a K100.
Yep I didn't read the post properly.
-
FYI - I just completed a complete spline lube on my K75. I would not consider myself a mechanic. The job is not rocket science but like you mentioned, there's a lot of stuff to dismantle and put back together. I also cleaned up the clutch and put in a new rear main seal while I was in there and the whole process took me three days at a relaxed pace. This forum saved me hours and headaches.
Although I didn't need to remove the headers, I have removed them before and it wasn't a big deal. Have new header gaskets ready for the re-install.
-
FYI - I just completed a complete spline lube on my K75. I would not consider myself a mechanic. The job is not rocket science but like you mentioned, there's a lot of stuff to dismantle and put back together. I also cleaned up the clutch and put in a new rear main seal while I was in there and the whole process took me three days at a relaxed pace. This forum saved me hours and headaches.
My plan is to do it at a nice relaxed pace too, that's why I'm doing over a few days. No pressure so hopefully no mistakes. Got some stainless braided brake lines to fit at the front too, should improve the anchors a bit.
This forum is definitely the place to get good K bike info. :2thumbup:
-
FYI - I just completed a complete spline lube on my K75. I would not consider myself a mechanic. The job is not rocket science but like you mentioned, there's a lot of stuff to dismantle and put back together. I also cleaned up the clutch and put in a new rear main seal while I was in there and the whole process took me three days at a relaxed pace. This forum saved me hours and headaches.
Although I didn't need to remove the headers, I have removed them before and it wasn't a big deal. Have new header gaskets ready for the re-install.
K75 headers are much easier to deal with since they merge into the collector before they meet the exhaust can. On a stock K100 exhaust it can be a pain in the butt to hook all four headers back up to the exhaust can.
-
All done and dusted now. Took me two days in all at a fairly relaxed pace. I thought that the gearbox to frame mounting bolts were going to be a showstopper, man they are tight! Took an 18" breaker bar and lots of effort to move them. I took the exhaust off in the end, just easier to do so. All but two of the studs came out of the cylinder head. Every nut was very corroded so I replaced them all after cutting them off the studs. I used galv nuts and also coated the threads with Moly grease too so next time it should come off with no drama at all.
Gearbox splines were perfect and every thing else in there looked good too. All went back together easily and the cleanup of the clutch mechanism has made my clutch feather light now. Well maybe not feather light but an awful lot lighter than it was! It was a right pain having to make up a frame to support the bike but these are very well made bikes and I've enjoyed working on it. I was impressed at the single plug for all of the electrics on the tail piece, a little thing perhaps but it shows thought in the design.
I guess the next time I'll need to go in will be to replace the clutch at whatever mileage that will be. I'll be much happier diving in next time and reckon I'll be much quicker too having done it once.
Simon.
-
I was impressed at the single plug for all of the electrics on the tail piece, a little thing perhaps but it shows thought in the design.
Too bad they didn't think to use that connector the other way around so you don't have to unscrew it just to pull the light...
-
I was impressed at the single plug for all of the electrics on the tail piece, a little thing perhaps but it shows thought in the design.
Too bad they didn't think to use that connector the other way around so you don't have to unscrew it just to pull the light...
OK, perhaps not quite enough thought.....
:laugh