Edit: And there's two Ns in Runnin'.
An old sage on the Internet once told me, "this is the Internet, I'm not writing a thesis." ;D
As a fuel system additive, Sea FoamŪ will clean carburetors, fuel injectors, clean carbon, gum and varnish deposits, add lubricity to fuel, stabilize fuel for 2 years and control moisture.
As an oil system additive, Sea FoamŪ controls moisture, gum, varnish and residue deposits.
what beads
After changing the fuel and fuel filter it doesn't run rough but two straight tanks I got 33MPG, down from 45. WTF! Only thing I did to it this spring engine wise is spark plugs.
These plugs right here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-Spark-Plug-92-98-BMW-K1100LT-Platinum-Iridium-NEW-/150610404084?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23111462f4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-Spark-Plug-92-98-BMW-K1100LT-Platinum-Iridium-NEW-/150610404084?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23111462f4)
That wouldn't cut fuel mileage. O2 sensor? Temp sensor? Seems to run O.K. but not with the snap it should, IMO.
What would cut the mileage like that?
Did you put screw-on caps on the spark plugs?
Double-check that the spark plug leads are all of the way on?
You should synch the TBs any time you change plugs.
Have you checked for air leaks between the TBs and the cylinder head? (Spray some starter fluid there while bike is idling.)
New air filter. Would dirty injectors cause a drop in fuel mileage?
Whose "Mr Injector?"
Got anything to synch the TBs with yet?
Cut off those dumbass Oetiker clamps (Dremel cutting wheel) and replace them with stainless worm drive clamps.
McMaster-Carr part 388K32
I'd replace #1s too while you're in there.
Dropped a digit: 5388K32
Because they're 16 year old plastic that's been subjected to numerous heat cycles and 80k of riding as well as long annual layups. While you've got everything apart it makes sense. (to me anyhow)
Duck, what would you do with the 2 hoses that come out of the front of the air box? Are they necessary or are they emission ch!t that can be eliminated?
Duck, what would you do with the 2 hoses that come out of the front of the air box? Are they necessary or are they emission ch!t that can be eliminated?
Why do you need to f with the air box? Leave the top of the air box and those hoses as they are.
You can put those bolts in that secure the bottom of the air box once the filter is out and not having to remove the top of the air box. I did it just yesterday on a K75 I was helping a guy with.
The RealOEM catalog should have the bolt sizes and lengths for the air box hold down bolts.
By the way, in case you haven't figured it out you'll need a set of the #3 O-rings as well.
Yeah, that's some weird chit. I've got the BMW parts catalog and it says "This part not installed in the specified vehicle." WTF?
Maybe you should just JB Weld it to the engine block. ;D
FYI: the bolt size for a K75 is M8x30
Also, I have no bolts to attach the bottom of the air box to the engine. There are just 2 rubber grommets filling the holes that lead to threaded holes in the engine. I think I'll find a couple and put them in to make changing the f-ing air filter easier.
Also, I have no bolts to attach the bottom of the air box to the engine. There are just 2 rubber grommets filling the holes that lead to threaded holes in the engine. I think I'll find a couple and put them in to make changing the f-ing air filter easier.
Don't feel too bad, mine didn't have any bolts fastening mine down either. It just sits there on some rubber pads. They do have a little nipple on them to set into the hole in the block for horizontal alignment, but no threaded bolt to fasten it down solid.
I can't remember how much time I wasted trying to remove them only to realize that the airbox bottom just sat there and was not fastened down. :o
I did replace the smaller rubber hoses in/out of the airbox. I'd have to find the packing list to get the part #'s if you would like.
IIRC there are 3.
2 on the front and 1 on the left rear.
If I was doing it again, I'd eliminate all of them like some others have done. I think it's also what BMW did on the 1200's.
I'll probably eliminate them on my '97 when I renew the rubber bits on it next winter.
Just asking: if you close off that system--the vent hose connection at the rear and the return hose connection at the front--won't you blow a seal?
Larry Johnson
El Paso TX
So these hoses are not necessary? Can you just cap them off and do away with them? Emissions crap?
Been there, done that - to the K1:(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/beenthreedownthat.jpg)
Been there, done that - to the K1:(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd470/Motobrick/beenthreedownthat.jpg)
I figured you'd been there before but I didn't think it would've been on the K1. What was up with that?
you gotta be kidding me... all this fuss over the cracked rubbers...
dude... the bug... i just smeared jb weld on the rubber then wrapped them with electrical tape the slathered a coat of of liquid electrical tape over that...
j o
And why do you put cuts in your spark plug leads???
If'n you can't get one there in time then I can Priority Mail one to you and it should be there in a day or two since you're close.
And why do you put cuts in your spark plug leads???