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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: tsbt on June 29, 2012, 11:11:32 AM
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Morning fellow Bricks,
Question: Finally reattached my engine covers and timing cover after replacing the Front Seal. Cleaned the bolts off, coated them with anti-seize and torqued the cover on accordingly, however I heard a bit of dirt crunching in the threads on a few. Should I pull it off, clean them out and start over? :tongue
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I.M.O.
I would do it over.
But my Dad was a Mech. and would head slap me if I did not clean it out... :nono
But that is just me...
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I.M.O.
I would do it over.
But my Dad was a Mech. and would head slap me if I did not clean it out... :nono
But that is just me...
Consider me 'head-slapped' :giggles
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I.M.O.
I would do it over.
But my Dad was a Mech. and would head slap me if I did not clean it out... :nono
But that is just me...
Awe, the joys of child ownership!
Tom
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Which also begs the question, how best to clean them out? So far ive used an Awl with a rag, some gasket remover, a chisel to shave off old rubber bits and sludge, qtips with a touch of break fluid on them shoving in than pulling out (not so successful), screwing a clean bolt in and out a few times...any others?
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Morning fellow Bricks,
Question: Finally reattached my engine covers and timing cover after replacing the Front Seal. Cleaned the bolts off, coated them with anti-seize and torqued the cover on accordingly, however I heard a bit of dirt crunching in the threads on a few. Should I pull it off, clean them out and start over? :tongue
Hope like hell, you R&R the cover "rubber bushings" as part of the job.
Once they get old & hard they lack the proper compression, hence a oil leak.
Go EASY when torquing the cover bolts. I've seen first hand DYI motObrick wrenches strip them. (bad) FWIW, antiseize may NOT be a good idea being such a low torque value. 5.9 foot pounds for reference. Antiseize CHANGES the that value BIG time compared to a dry thread !
New bushings are the key to tight seal !
I use kerosine and toothbrush for cleaning the threads on the bolts.
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Hope like hell, you R&R the cover "rubber bushings" as part of the job.
Once they get old & hard they lack the proper compression, hence a oil leak.
Go EASY when torquing the cover bolts. I've seen first hand DYI motObrick wrenches strip them. (bad) FWIW, antiseize may NOT be a good idea being such a low torque value. 5.9 foot pounds for reference. Antiseize CHANGES the that value BIG time compared to a dry thread !
New bushings are the key to tight seal !
I use kerosine and toothbrush for cleaning the threads on the bolts.
Thanks Gary, was meaning to get Kerosene, only anti-seized the timing cover. Cam and Crank went on dry, with a touch of oil around their gaskets. Guess new bushings are in order too. Assuming R&R means remove and replace the bushings on the engine bolts, and not rest and relaxation, which judging by this summer weather and a few cold ones in the fridge, it means both. :hmm: :2thumbup:
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Which also begs the question, how best to clean them out? So far ive used an Awl with a rag, some gasket remover, a chisel to shave off old rubber bits and sludge, qtips with a touch of break fluid on them shoving in than pulling out (not so successful), screwing a clean bolt in and out a few times...any others?
How about some of that "compressed air in a can" with the plastic nozzle on it for direction control.....
You know, the thing you use on your computer keyboard to keep the crumbs out from under the keys....
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How about some of that "compressed air in a can" with the plastic nozzle on it for direction control.....
You know, the thing you use on your computer keyboard to keep the crumbs out from under the keys....
Got it. It works a charm for about 10 seconds then freezes, a decent air compressor would be nice right about now. The tool wishlist grows :deal: