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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: tsbt on May 14, 2012, 08:48:14 PM
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Removing the paralever tonight I ended up stripping part of the Allen hole, used a mallet to pound the 12mm Allen socket back in to retap the shape. Tried it again a second time with a pipe on the end for leverage and busted my socket extension off inside my Allen socket. The 12mm Allen seems to fit relatively snug still but I don't want it to happen a second time. Should I torch it? just worried about the boot melting if I do because it's so close. Guess I'm buying 12mm Allen Wrench next time and heating the Locktite with a torch, hopefully I can still get it out :imwithstupid: Any suggestions for round two?
Thanks,
c
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Chinese tools.............?
If you`re concerned about the boot, hold a piece of sheet metal in front of it, while heating the bolt.
(the sheet metal need to have decent bit of area, or you suddenly start to add new words to your vocabulary).
Inge K.
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Just use a small propane torch and put the flame right on that puppy. Doesn't need to glow red. Then find some tool that will fit in that hole you made. If you burn the boot you can just add it to the order. You do need a new bolt. :giggles
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Thanks Inge. Thanks Red. Got my torch. Chinese tools? Naw Craftsman, brand new too. Maybe i need a good socket wrench, add that to the list too. :tongue
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Heat gun works well for that. Not to expensive and won't burn off your paint.
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Doesn't look like this part has an Allen hole, I'll just assume it does and order it. Don't you just hate $67 mistakes! Yeesh
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Not intending to hijack, but...
Chinese tools? Naw Craftsman, brand new too.
Actually brand new Craftsman tools have a very high probability of being from China from what I have been seeing lately.
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Yes, discovered the same digging around online today. Yikes!
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Just examined the ratchet set package. Stanley. Made in Taiwan.
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To heat the locktite I would use a soldering iron. Thats what I do for disk bolts.
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My preffered method is a 4 ft breaker bar and a hair dryer! the Flex in the breaker bar seems to work to load up the pivot pin and ease it out. Same principle as a kinetic recovery of a stuck 4*4 (or SUV I guess)
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Success, torched the bolt (ordered a new one from Frankenduck) used a 12mm Allen Wrench and a pipe for leverage and voila :2thumbup: snapped free, didn't strip. Final drive and my swing arm are off and on the floor for my spline lube, the only thing I need now is to get this spline out of the female holding it into the transmission. Something about a c-clip/u-clip but i can't seem to find it. Must be all the crud in there. Should it pop out fairly easily? once I find this u-clip of course.
I'll also post some pics of my splines hopefully they're okay, saw a bit of wear, fingers crossed...
c
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You won't see the circlip it is inside the spline on the drive shaft. Put a large screw driver into the center of the uni and lever against the back lip of the transmission. just a short sharp pull is enough and make sure it clips back into place when you are reassembling. Enter the spline just and give it a sharp push you will feel it clip into place.
The same applies when doing the rear section onto the rear drive.