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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: wmax351 on April 30, 2012, 01:23:26 AM
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My other project for my K75 is a trip computer. I will be setting up a MPGuino to work on my bike, which will display the mpg, fuel consumption, etc. I may modify the code, and tap into the temperature sensor as well.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino (http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino)
Its pretty much a modern version of Fuel+. Will be a bit bigger, though, and have a nice LCD with a red backlight.
I need to figure out what the output from the speed sensor is. Is it a VR sensor? I basically need a square wave at logic or higher level voltages.
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It's magnetic and sinusoidal, not square.
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It's magnetic and sinusoidal, not square.
I figured. Do you know if it is a VR type sensor?
I'll probably set up a conditioner circuit.
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Don't know the details of it. I just know that it's an analog magnetic device so it's not going to put out a square wave like a digital device would.
The best way to tell what the output looks like would be to hook it up to an oscilloscope.
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I also remember seeing someone that mentioned the output from the sensor is in the microamp range, which might make it difficult to pick up without a bit more circuitry, which might also interfere with it's normal operation... If the output really is that low (which wouldn't surprise me)
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Yeah. Looks like a VR device. I will use a LM1815 conditioner chip, which will give a nice square output.
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My other project for my K75 is a trip computer. I will be setting up a MPGuino to work on my bike, which will display the mpg, fuel consumption, etc. I may modify the code, and tap into the temperature sensor as well.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino (http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino)
Its pretty much a modern version of Fuel+. Will be a bit bigger, though, and have a nice LCD with a red backlight.
I need to figure out what the output from the speed sensor is. Is it a VR sensor? I basically need a square wave at logic or higher level voltages.
If your home brewed fuel plus + computer reaches fruition, I would be VERY interested in one for my whip.
Years ago, I ran a fuel plus on my K 100 RS. Still pissed, I let it go with the bike when I sold her off.
Hooked up with a guy at a petrol stop that fabricated his own computer last summer, KTM application.
Below is a copy and paste of an article published in the October 2008 issue of MCN on the Fuel Plus 4.0. This gadget is currently not available. Plus this webite has additional info. http://www.bmwra.org/otl/fuelplus/ (http://www.bmwra.org/otl/fuelplus/)
ARTICLE:
Product Report
When I was actively competing in endurance challenges, I had an array of devices that were constantly feeding me information, including two GPS devices. One was dedicated to just displaying data like the number of miles ridden, trip duration and the all-important average speed. The other was primarily devoted to routing me to my next checkpoint, but it also had additional features like instant XM Traffic and Weather capabilities. Moreover, I used a CB radio, countdown timer, voltmeter and the bike's onboard computer to keep me alert and informed – I am of the opinion that you can never have too much information. And if the Fuel Plus 4.0 Motorcycle Trip Computer had been available, I would have installed one of those too.
The Fuel Plus was developed by David Weiszbrod and introduced in 1992 for BMW K-models. In addition to having a 12-hour clock, it also monitored fuel consumption (miles per gallon), miles from last fill-up, average speed, fuel remaining to empty, as well as a number of other related functions.
I ended up installing one of the original units on my 1997 K 1100LT and it proved to be extremely accurate and reliable during the approximately 20,000 miles I used it. So when I heard that Weiszbrod had developed a new model, I decided to order one for my 1995 K75 "Standard."
Unlike the first-generation Fuel Plus which replaced the dash-mounted clock – a process that made more than one owner very nervous since the instrument pod had to be removed and disassembled – the Fuel Plus 4.0 is a stand-alone unit.
Made from polycarbonate and mounted near the left grip for easy access, it has a sleek and clean appearance with no external buttons. Scrolling through the functions is easily accomplished by means of two hidden touch pads on either side of the display. It is also completely weatherproof and even has an internal heater to reduce fogging in colder weather, can be used with winter gloves, and is backlit for easy viewing at night.
While the directions appeared to be straightforward, I wanted to ensure that I eliminated any potential errors during testing as my expertise in soldering and installing electrical components is limited. So I enlisted the help of respected motorcycle technician Roger Sinclair to make all the necessary connections. He had it mounted in about two hours and after performing a couple of tests, pronounced it ready to go.
Programmed into the new Fuel Plus computer are many functions found on the original including a clock (12- or 24-hour), fuel gauge (monitored as a percentage of fuel remaining), odometer (miles or kilometers), fuel economy, daily stats (miles ridden, running time, and average speed), voltmeter, several waypoint related functions, and miles/kilometers remaining in the tank. It also has several new features like ambient and engine block temperature (Fahrenheit or Celsius), and the ability to set alarms to monitor the battery, charging system and temperature.
The Fuel Plus 4.0 really is a worthy successor to the original in every respect and proved to be just as accurate as its predecessor. When I measured the bike's engine block temperature with an infrared heat gun thermometer, for example, and compared this reading with the Fuel Plus, it was within one degree. I also found that the ambient temperature reading was also within a degree or two of the known outside temperature and the average speed matched what my GPS indicated.
But the real purpose for the Fuel Plus is to accurately monitor fuel consumption. In this regard, it does it better than any production motorcycle computer I've ever used. Unlike onboard motorcycle computers that simply rely on the float level, the Fuel Plus measures the distance traveled and compares this number with the fuel remaining in the tank. According to Weiszbrod, his computer measures fuel consumed (by the drop) as it passes through the fuel injectors, while taking into account things like changes in wind load and speed in order to provide precise data. And if this weren't enough, it can even be tailored to meet the needs of the rider or motorcycle.
Long-distance riders who use an auxiliary fuel cell can now calibrate the Fuel Plus to monitor the gas in both tanks so they'll always know percentage of fuel used and how many miles they have until empty.
If there is one drawback to the Fuel Plus, it's ease of use. The unit is packed with so many features that scrolling to a particular setting can be tedious, at least initially. If the clock is used as the default function, for example, it takes seven steps to get to the odometer. This also means that you can't back up one function-you have to go all the way around. Unfortunately, this is the price you must pay when using a compact computer with only two buttons.
But once you understand how the Fuel Plus works, this becomes a minor inconvenience at worst. And while the LCD characters in the display might appear to be somewhat thin and archaic, I never had a problem reading the information in direct sunlight or at night.
I am an advocate of supporting small businesses, especially motorcycle entrepreneurs, that offer well-designed and useful products and provide good customer service. In this regard, David Weiszbrod more than exceeds these criteria.
Priced at $337, he has designed an attractive, functional and accurate product at a fair price. The Fuel Plus 4.0 is available for fuel injected BMW K75, K100, K1100 models, Oilheads and K1200s, FL Harley-Davidsons and GL1800 Gold Wings. Weiszbrod is also considering adding KTM 990s and Yamaha FJR 1300s to this list if there's an interest.
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I have the 4.0 version on my '95LT, I like it.
It is a shame that Dave isn't making them anymore. He even let his web name expire.
I think I may still have his e-mail/phone # available if anyone is interested in trying to contact him.
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Another possibility for speedo signal is the blue/green wire from the speedo tp the flasher relay that does the turn signal auto cancel after 100m or so. Although I'm not sure if the circuitry for that is in the speedo and it sends one pulse or if it forwards the speedo pulse to the flasher relay and the circuitry is in the flasher relay.
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Another possibility for speedo signal is the blue/green wire from the speedo tp the flasher relay that does the turn signal auto cancel after 100m or so. Although I'm not sure if the circuitry for that is in the speedo and it sends one pulse or if it forwards the speedo pulse to the flasher relay and the circuitry is in the flasher relay.
I believe it is a single pulse.
I would be willing to make some of these. If I find some interest, I can do a PCB order, and make a bunch of them. I can also just etch my own pcbs, which is also easier the more you do.
I can make one specific for the K Bikes pretty readily.
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if its baddass cool and priced right i will take 4 of them...
j o
Good to hear. I will see what the total comes out to for each one. The parts will work out to probably 20-25 dollars each, though not completely sure, especially in quantity.
Time is the big issue. If I get enough interest, I will do a batchPCB order, which will greatly reduce the time required to make each one.
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if its baddass cool and priced right i will take 4 of them...
j o
Yes, depending on price and "form factor" I might be interested in two. I'm just not badass cool enough to require badass cool-ness.
Tom
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A lot of these variables are dependent on price point. More $ for my labor=smaller size devices, and nicer cases. I can do SMD soldering, but it is a bit trickier. I'll start out with my through hole, prototyped one, and see how it works.
What is the best form factor for these? I can do a single package, with processor and LCD in one. I can also do a separate "Brain" and display.
The Display unit is 80mm x 36mm. The buttons will be on the side, and probably add about 10mm. so we're looking at a 90mm x 40mm box. Probably will use black ABS project enclosures.
The feature set on these is pretty significant, and have room for expansion. I may add temperature reading capabilities to mine. This system allows for total fuel consumed to be displayed (think ridiculously accurate fuel gauge).
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NHD-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW-Lvirtualkey66010000virtualkey763-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NHD-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW-Lvirtualkey66010000virtualkey763-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW)
These are the LCD's I'm using. Any other 16x2 display with the same interface chip would be usable. There are a variety of colors available.
A simpler one could be made smaller, that only does instant or distance mpg. I could use a couple of 7-segment LED displays, to display a simple "Miles/Fuel used" calculation, with a hard-coded pulse per mile and fuel injector rating values. It would not be adjustable without a programmer. For K bikes, the tire sizes change somewhat, with a fairly significant difference. IE: 2.03-2.14 meter circumference. I could add an adjustment potentiometer, but would only be a trim/correction factor, and not a true adjustment.
The disadvantage of this is I would have to develop my own code.
What would people be willing to spend on one of these? I know the fuel-plus was a few hundred dollars, numerous years ago.
Here is a survey I put together. If you are interested,
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dElJOHotbTFpUTVtSm92aGRqUWZ0aUE6MQ (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dElJOHotbTFpUTVtSm92aGRqUWZ0aUE6MQ)
This could work out to be a great summer job/project if there is enough interest.
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Ambient temp is a good feature IMO. I'd go with an external temp sensor that you can hide from the sun so it doesn't give falsely high readings. I've got a VDO ambient temp gauge on my red bike. Once I calibrated it with an in-line variable resistor it's' pretty accurate with the sensor hidden up in the fairing, away from the sun and the engine heat.
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Ambient temp is a good feature IMO. I'd go with an external temp sensor that you can hide from the sun so it doesn't give falsely high readings. I've got a VDO ambient temp gauge on my red bike. Once I calibrated it with an in-line variable resistor it's' pretty accurate with the sensor hidden up in the fairing, away from the sun and the engine heat.
I was thinking engine temp, but ambient is also useful. Just a cheap, linear temperature sensor, with a wire to wherever one wants to mount it.
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if its baddass cool and priced right i will take 4 of them...
j o
+1 but only one baddass unit for this bricker!
You need to figure out materials cost and $$ for your time and then hit us with a price. Just me, but I would have had me a Fuel Plus but $400 made me cough up a lung when the odometer gets me in the ball park.
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Sounds like a fun project.
I might well be in for one - one thought though - could you make it so it fits the "map" light on the LT fairing ? - add a couple of LEDS into the bottom of it to replace the map light and it would slot in a treat.
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Sounds like a fun project.
I might well be in for one - one thought though - could you make it so it fits the "map" light on the LT fairing ? - add a couple of LEDS into the bottom of it to replace the map light and it would slot in a treat.
Should be doable. What are the dimensions for that?
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if its baddass cool and priced right i will take 4 of them...
j o
+1 but only one baddass unit for this bricker!
You need to figure out materials cost and $$ for your time and then hit us with a price. Just me, but I would have had me a Fuel Plus but $400 made me cough up a lung when the odometer gets me in the ball park.
I should have a prototype in the next few weeks. Once I have that done, I can make a circuit board and get some quotes on components.
$400 seems a bit steep to me as well. I can assure you it will be less. I am aiming to have a ~50 dollar kit, and a $100-150 assembled, plug and play version.
The one feature that will be very helpful is the instant mpg. It helps you improve your mileage a ton. You start to learn what the engine and bike likes. I have that on my car ('86 BMW 325es) and it lets me average ~28-30 mpg on the freeway.
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That sounds cool! If it could replace the useless map lite in the fairing it would be semi-orgasmic.
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:giggles Will it measure in proper gallons or US?
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:giggles Will it measure in proper gallons or US?
It can be set to do either (just figure out how many microseconds/gallon (UK or US) the injectors flow.). There is also a metric version of the code. I believe that does L/100km.
Each injector flows 161 cc/minute at 3 bar, and 146.87 cc/minute at the 2.5 bar our fuel system runs at.
http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=3*146.87+cc%2Fminute+in+us+per+gallon (http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=3*146.87+cc%2Fminute+in+us+per+gallon)
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:giggles Will it measure in proper gallons or US?
It can be set to do either (just figure out how many microseconds/gallon (UK or US) the injectors flow.). There is also a metric version of the code. I believe that does L/100km.
Each injector flows 161 cc/minute at 3 bar, and 146.87 cc/minute at the 2.5 bar our fuel system runs at.
http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=3*146.87+cc%2Fminute+in+us+per+gallon (http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=3*146.87+cc%2Fminute+in+us+per+gallon)
wmax, if you are trying to impress me it is working. Keep up the good work.
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Makes sense to me if you know the flow rate then you just need to time how long the injectors are open per Km. That will be the signal from the Jetronic.
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Now if it will work of both jetronic and motronic its useable for all K and a lot or oilheads too, if that's the case I may be in for two or 3
As far as case material goes have you thought of cnc machined? Its surprisingly cheap for small batches. I will measure the map light this week and have mad a note to measure the depth available when I do the next service in a couple of weeks
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It is compatible with anything that has fuel injection and some sort of signal for distance. It detects the rising and falling voltage on the injectors. It counts pulses for the wheel position. In our case, I will use a circuit to condition the raw speed sensor input into something usable for the computer.
I will likely get the PCB's machined through http://www.batchpcb.com/ (http://www.batchpcb.com/). Low setup fee, and good prices for smaller batches.
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:giggles Will it measure in proper gallons or US?
You can customize it to show buckets per fortnight!
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Will it measure wheelie angles too? I like to 12 o'clock my K75. :k75s
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An accelarometer could be good fun!
I have to say though when thinking about thing like this my (now long distant) past experience of gliging comes to mind where the most important instrument is the bit of yarn taped to the canopy in front of your nose!
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boys, boys, boys.......... :nono
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An accelarometer could be good fun!
I have to say though when thinking about thing like this my (now long distant) past experience of gliging comes to mind where the most important instrument is the bit of yarn taped to the canopy in front of your nose!
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9269 (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9269)
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An accelarometer could be good fun!
I have to say though when thinking about thing like this my (now long distant) past experience of gliging comes to mind where the most important instrument is the bit of yarn taped to the canopy in front of your nose!
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9269 (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9269)
Thinking an arduino based option?
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The whole thing is already arduino based. (well, atmega AVR based. the programming is arduino. )
My prototype is using an arduino UNO clone. My final one will be a standalone ATmega with a power supply and external clock (16mhz).
Its a great setup. Makes microcontrollers really accesible.
unfortunatley, pretty much all of the inputs/outputs are taken with the mpguino. so something like an accelerometer would be out of the question without a separate controller.
I am planning to make some instrumentation for my bike based on attiny microcontrollers as well.
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i typically run an accelerometer... i call it the mickster...
j o
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It can be set to do either (just figure out how many microseconds/gallon (UK or US) the injectors flow.). There is also a metric version of the code. I believe that does L/100km.
From what I can gather V.86 has the metric code but it is // refed out so it would be easy to burn metric chips.
The US/Imp conversion is trivial during setup.
I've just ordered a "Jellybean" version for my car http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html (http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html)
Beware this LCD is in no way waterproof!
He is selling a bare unit with no case and his board pins out the unused legs on the ATmega, but using them would need you to write some code.
Your post has inspired me to buy an arduino Uno, I'm stunned at the possibilities of this open source platform.
I'm looking forward to your project. Why don't you start a build thread, and detail your board design and fabrication.
Remotely mounting the switches near the left handgrip, might be a cool option.
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It can be set to do either (just figure out how many microseconds/gallon (UK or US) the injectors flow.). There is also a metric version of the code. I believe that does L/100km.
From what I can gather V.86 has the metric code but it is // refed out so it would be easy to burn metric chips.
The US/Imp conversion is trivial during setup.
I've just ordered a "Jellybean" version for my car http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html (http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html)
Beware this LCD is in no way waterproof!
He is selling a bare unit with no case and his board pins out the unused legs on the ATmega, but using them would need you to write some code.
Your post has inspired me to buy an arduino Uno, I'm stunned at the possibilities of this open source platform.
I'm looking forward to your project. Why don't you start a build thread, and detail your board design and fabrication.
Remotely mounting the switches near the left handgrip, might be a cool option.
The Jellybean version looks like a good setup. Very bare bones, though. You may need a VR conditioner circuit for your speed sensor, because the arduino expects a square wave, 5volt speed sensor reading.
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It wasn't a serious request for an accelerometer by the way. The comment about wool was serious though I'm considering taoping some to the screen on the brick but the only time I can think about the yaw angle being far enough out of balance with the bank angle a soft hedge detector could be more useful
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Now if it will work of both jetronic and motronic its useable for all K and a lot or oilheads too, if that's the case I may be in for two or 3
As far as case material goes have you thought of cnc machined? Its surprisingly cheap for small batches. I will measure the map light this week and have mad a note to measure the depth available when I do the next service in a couple of weeks
This is the ideal place to mount on the LT. Right in the line of site, available power right there, and replace a light I may have used twice since I've owned the bike. That being said getting a proper fit and mount might be problematic.
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The Jellybean version looks like a good setup. Very bare bones, though. You may need a VR conditioner circuit for your speed sensor, because the arduino expects a square wave, 5volt speed sensor reading.
I'm going to use that one in my car! I presently use a Pivot accelerometer that is hooked into the VSS to show when I'm being too heavy footed. It should be easy to hook up because I have already identified the VSS in my car. But it will be a good platform to try and modify the code.
I like the "jellybean" because he has given the chance to add other sensors. I think an engine temp sensor and a knock sensor would be useful, but this will just be a test bed for me. A digital compass would be cool.
And a BMW "K" splash screen would add to "Bling" factor.
I think keeping the unit slim enough for a handlebar mount would be worthwhile for those with smaller fairings.
Some people have used sensors from bicycle computers instead of the VSS. This could be handy if you were intending to fit to different vehicles, and for those nervous about tapping into their already sensitive meters. It would also be useful for those with broken speedos.
If your VSS input conditioner could be jumpered off, your unit could have wider applications.
For "Wow factor" one of the transparent LCD's in the screen would look ubercool.
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Now if it will work of both jetronic and motronic its useable for all K and a lot or oilheads too, if that's the case I may be in for two or 3
As far as case material goes have you thought of cnc machined? Its surprisingly cheap for small batches. I will measure the map light this week and have mad a note to measure the depth available when I do the next service in a couple of weeks
This is the ideal place to mount on the LT. Right in the line of site, available power right there, and replace a light I may have used twice since I've owned the bike. That being said getting a proper fit and mount might be problematic.
It's the same part as a dome light out a 3 series car. 63311376046
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I think the main reason that this project fizzled out is that the fundamentallogic store closed down.I have no idea why but their kit, and also their board for the iduino is no longer available.
One of their dealers at wulfden.org still sell a kit called "RBBB Freeduino Kit" (really bare bones) http://www.wulfden.org/TheShoppe/freeduino/rbbb.shtml (http://www.wulfden.org/TheShoppe/freeduino/rbbb.shtml) for $15 shipped.
This seems to be one of the only kits out there that could replace the iduino. I'd be interested to hear your ideas about board/component choice.
I cant find an LCD with a flush PCB. Reducing bezel size would make for a much better installation.
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Iduino is an easy assembly. I was going to etch out a pcb, and make one.
My board will be a bare bones arduino, with a VR conditioner circuit added.
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Iduino is an easy assembly. I was going to etch out a pcb, and make one.
My board will be a bare bones arduino, with a VR conditioner circuit added.
Ha, I presumed Arduino was a Greek or Italian motorcycle design ______. :bmwsmile :bmwsmile
Ever hear of the Mebea ?
http://cybermotorcycle.com/euro/greek_motorcycles.htm (http://cybermotorcycle.com/euro/greek_motorcycles.htm)
(http://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/mebea/images/Mebea_Hermes.jpg)
Count me in for a computer please, ______________ thanks.
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I've done a decent amount of work with AVR based systems (built several 3d printers as a project over the last few years, now i have a bike to focus on.)
the RBBB is from moderndevice.com originally. i've used several (and a couple of BBBs too. larger formfactor, but easier to plug in some things like servos) there are also tons of sensors on there too, but i couldn't find any accelerometers that happen to be I2c, which might help with the lack of pins thing. otherwise, you can always push up to one of the big brothers. sanguino, arduino mega, etc. same programming interface, so it doesn't actually add any complexity, just size, unless you go for surface mount versions on a custom board.
let me know if i can help in any way.
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The $100 to $150 sounds good. Put me in for one provided that a metric one is available.
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Iduino is an easy assembly. I was going to etch out a pcb, and make one.
My board will be a bare bones arduino, with a VR conditioner circuit added.
Are you going to share your VR conditioner? Are you going to make your board design available?
It would be nice to find an LCD with bezel that doesn't have, a large PCB sticking out behind it.
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Iduino is an easy assembly. I was going to etch out a pcb, and make one.
My board will be a bare bones arduino, with a VR conditioner circuit added.
Are you going to share your VR conditioner? Are you going to make your board design available?
It would be nice to find an LCD with bezel that doesn't have, a large PCB sticking out behind it.
I will take a look for some other LCD's. They need to have a certain LCD driver circuit to interface, but any that use that specification should work. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any without the PCB sticking out.
I am planning to have the entire thing stuck into an enclosure, with a clear window for the LCD. This will make the device water resistant.
http://www.newhavendisplay.com/specs/NHD-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW-L.pdf (http://www.newhavendisplay.com/specs/NHD-0216K1Z-FSR-GBW-L.pdf) Anything that uses the 4-bit implementation for the controller will be compatible with the libraries.
My main goal is to have this be a pretty much plug and play setup. I hope to set up connectors that patch in, so no (or minimal) tapping of wires is required.
These are the LCD's which will be compatible: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N=10973347+4294631178+4294718035+1323043 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N=10973347+4294631178+4294718035+1323043)
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Well, still having issues getting the LM1815 to work. Running it with Karamba (the speedo calibration application) didn't provide a response.
However, the good news is that it appears that the turn signal relay output is the 6 volt square wave that also drives the speedometer head.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/700/489248_DS.pdf
(http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/700/489248_DS.pdf)
http://ibmwr.org/ktech/speedo.gif (http://ibmwr.org/ktech/speedo.gif)
With this being the case, my prototype should be working as soon as I get back to Berkeley.
This also should reduce the cost of the device, as the LM1815 chip is about 5 bucks each, with ancillary components costing another dollar or two.
At this point I will start developing the circuit board and enclosure. I plan to make it waterproof or water resistant. I will also use a waterproof connector for the four input pins, if possible.
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The next question is which color options do people want for the LCD?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216CZ-FL-YBW/?qs=3vk7fz9CmNy1FteDlaFx6g%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-0216CZ-FL-YBW/?qs=3vk7fz9CmNy1FteDlaFx6g%3d%3d)
This one seems a little smaller. I don't like green/yellow, but that is just personal preference.
http://www.newhavendisplay.com/nhd02161zfsyybwc-p-868.html (http://www.newhavendisplay.com/nhd02161zfsyybwc-p-868.html)
This would be quite good, as it has mounting holes.
http://www.newhavendisplay.com/lcd-character-2-x-16-characters-c-2_82.html (http://www.newhavendisplay.com/lcd-character-2-x-16-characters-c-2_82.html)
Any of these are compatible.
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Here you go blue backlight $3.76 shipped for 10 or more!
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/16-x-2-character-lcd-display-module-with-blue-backlight-121356?item=24 (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/16-x-2-character-lcd-display-module-with-blue-backlight-121356?item=24)
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Here you go blue backlight $3.76 shipped for 10 or more!
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/16-x-2-character-lcd-display-module-with-blue-backlight-121356?item=24 (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/16-x-2-character-lcd-display-module-with-blue-backlight-121356?item=24)
Not a bad deal. But it is in blue, and Dealextreme takes ~1-2 months to get to the US last time I ordered.
I am planning on making them in Red and Green/yellow.
If anyone has specific requests for color, I can make one out for that pretty easily.
I am currently working on the prototype for the PCB. Once I finish the design, I will start etching some prototype boards with a toner transfer method.
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Not an egghead. My Dad was an egghead. That being said........
(http://www.newhavendisplay.com/images/nhd-0216k1z-nsr-fbw-front-NOBL.jpg)
Black with red lettering.
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Not an egghead. My Dad was an egghead. That being said........
(http://www.newhavendisplay.com/images/nhd-0216k1z-nsr-fbw-front-NOBL.jpg)
Black with red lettering.
I like how those look, but I am concerned about visibility in the sun.
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Working on my prototype board now. Once this works out, I will make the order for the PCB's. Probably from Malaysia. Gotta love globalization. Takes 2 days to ship from malaysia, and about a week to produce the boards.
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Ha! Nice use of glossy magazine paper. Everything is looking good! You must have good eyes to solder those surface mount components. I can hardly see the little fellas.
Not going to bother with a fuse? Recommend using an inline one?
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Ha! Nice use of glossy magazine paper. Everything is looking good! You must have good eyes to solder those surface mount components. I can hardly see the little fellas.
Not going to bother with a fuse? Recommend using an inline one?
I'll probably pull power from a fused circuit. The final product will be a box, with 4 wires coming out, with posi-taps on them. One will go to a fused circuit that powers the clock (always on).
I ordered one of the black w/ red lettering LCD's. Those are FSTN type LCDs, which may actually be more visible.
The SMD's aren't too bad, especially when they aren't large IC's. They are 805's (Standard, not metric) so are reasonably large.
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I just got my MPGuino today from Jellybean. No time to hook it to the car till next week but I'll report about it when I do!
I think it has the same features.
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I just got my MPGuino today from Jellybean. No time to hook it to the car till next week but I'll report about it when I do!
I think it has the same features.
It does, pretty much. I am going to modify the code a bit. A lot of the features are for people with Nempimania, or an unhealthy obsession with gas mileage. These people "hypermile" by driving geo metro's at 50 mph in the right lane, and coasting down hills, among other behaviors.
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Got the model of what I would like to have the enclosure be. Will probably have to derive it from an existing case, but should be able to get close.
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Son of an egghead here. That looks cool. Can't tell but does it or can it have a lip for in dash flush mount?
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Son of an egghead here. That looks cool. Can't tell but does it or can it have a lip for in dash flush mount?
Nope. I'll look if I can do one. But I am probably going to go with modifying existing enclosures.
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There ya go.
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Figured I'd post an update.
Got the final circuit design worked out. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a good transfer onto a pcb, so my prototype didn't work.
Found a few places to get the boards made. Gotta love china: 5 days lead time, 3 days shipping.
Next step is figuring out the best type of enclosure. This is presenting a measure of difficulty, as not many enclosures seem to fit, and fewer still have a clear cover. Getting something custom made will likely be expensive, although I am going to give these folks a call: http://www.toollessplasticenclosures.com/default.asp (http://www.toollessplasticenclosures.com/default.asp)
My current thought is perhaps I will start with a lexan box, and Pot the electronics, with the screen pressed against the face of the plexiglass. Totally waterproof, shockproof, durable, and economical.
If I pot the electronics, I can also stick any sort of mounting hardware in there. Handlebar mount? Threaded rod?
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Mounting.
" I can also stick any sort of mounting hardware in there. Handlebar mount? Threaded rod? "
I'm thinking whatever case is a final selection may be string enough to secure the workings, but not so strong you want another break in the surface.
3M interlock, like velcro but much stronger. Stick where needed, move it when needed.
That don't work, people can epoxy ther own hardware to the case for mounting.
What do ya want for a $100.00 that's already plug & play?
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Mounting.
3M interlock, like velcro but much stronger. Stick where needed, move it when needed.
That don't work, people can epoxy ther own hardware to the case for mounting.
What do ya want for a $100.00 that's already plug & play?
+1 :2thumbup:
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Figured I'd post an update.
I've been doing a bit of work on the bike to prep it for my upcoming trip. I will install the prototype while I have the tank pulled back.
I've also done more research on a case. The http://www.toollessplasticenclosures.com/ (http://www.toollessplasticenclosures.com/) place that can make reasonably priced custom cases, that should let me keep the low price point, and still have a good product. Looks like about ten to fifteen bucks each for a quantity of 100. Maybe a bit more each for a quantity of 50, but there is no setup cost.
The cases will be clear, UV resistant acrylic on the front, and likely black or grey acrylic on the back The PCB will be either mounted on bosses internally, or with stainless steel machine screws, sealed on installation. The screen will be pressed against the front piece internally, and I may spray a coat of paint around it (also internally), for a cleaner look (no circuit boards visible).
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I hooked the prototype up. The fuel consumption measurement worked flawlessly. 0.17 Gallons/Hr at idle for my bike.
Unfortunately, the speed reading did not work. My speedo stopped working too. So I need to figure out which is the problem. However, I am currently leaning towards making a sensor to put on the brake caliper, and reading off of a magnet glued to a rivet or two on the rear.
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Well, it appears that I toasted the speedometer circuit board. The part that conditions the VR signal. Time for some careful repairs, to save some serious cash.
Does anyone have a trashed cluster? I mean, totally trashed. I just need a board, nothing special. It doesn't need to work at all.
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Got the gauge prototype working. Time to perfect the code and finalize the boxes. Hoping to have this set up to produce within the month.
I fixed the speedo board with a jumper wire. Works perfectly now. Looks like I toasted it by touching the hot wire to the turn signal cancel wire while running the wire through heat shrink.
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Working on finalizing my code modifications.
Currently, the screens are as follows:
Large, instant MPG
Large, Current (averaged) MPG
Large, Tank MPG
Large, Fuel used
Large, Fuel Left (Tank size adjustable)
Large, Range Remaining (Based on MPG for the tank, with a default of 40 if it is zero (idle or broken speedo) or near infinity (coasting))
Large, Tank ODO
I can add any more features related to speed, fuel use, time, etc. I am removing most of the small text features, as they are too small to safely read on the bike, and I feel it is best to limit the number of screens for simplicity's sake.
Also is switchable to metric with an easy setting change.
I removed the initial power on setup, and modified the default values to ones for the K bikes. If they need changed, the menu is easily accessed with the buttons onboard.
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this is exciting news...
j o
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wow. seems like quite a few trials, glad to hear you worked them out.
I'm excited to see it running. possible to shoot a video of going through the menu? seems like a good place for people to put in recommendations for cycle order, drill downs, etc.
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wow. seems like quite a few trials, glad to hear you worked them out.
I'm excited to see it running. possible to shoot a video of going through the menu? seems like a good place for people to put in recommendations for cycle order, drill downs, etc.
I'll try to do that today. I added a few other features: a speedometer (useful for calibrating the distance measurements), and modified a few bits of code to process certain items more easily. All functions will work perfectly with metric or US units.
I am planning to try to add a clock (I can adapt some code from a guy who goes by "Falcon4").
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wow. seems like quite a few trials, glad to hear you worked them out.
I'm excited to see it running. possible to shoot a video of going through the menu? seems like a good place for people to put in recommendations for cycle order, drill downs, etc.
I'll try to do that today. I added a few other features: a speedometer (useful for calibrating the distance measurements), and modified a few bits of code to process certain items more easily. All functions will work perfectly with metric or US units.
I am planning to try to add a clock (I can adapt some code from a guy who goes by "Falcon4").
Fantastic work - will u share the code and the schematic too?
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I am planning to try to add a clock (I can adapt some code from a guy who goes by "Falcon4").
Gots a clock already. Don't you K75 guys have clocks?! :neener:
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Fantastic work - will u share the code and the schematic too?
The current code is posted above. I will post the final version as well. I will also leave an ISP header in the device, for reprogramming.
The schematic is based on this one: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-source-pcb-design-2641.html#post32427 (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-source-pcb-design-2641.html#post32427)
The only difference Is that I added a 6 pin ISP plug and the resistor for the speed sensor is 10k ohm instead of 100k.
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Here's a video of me going through the displays, as well as the menus.
Menus for a motobrick mpg gauge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSDy-TG54bU#)
If the video doesn't work, check back in a few hours. Youtube is processing it.
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Here's a video of me going through the displays, as well as the menus.
Menus for a motobrick mpg gauge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSDy-TG54bU#)
If the video doesn't work, check back in a few hours. Youtube is processing it.
supersweet.
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Fantastic! This work is mind-boggling to me. You are a genius! Much thanks. :2thumbup:
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Well, Good news:
I am pretty much done with the design of all of the device. I am about ready to pull the trigger on most of the components, as well as the PCB's and I believe I have found a suitable, waterproof (from the factory) enclosure, that will fit in my budgeting for the project and still look nice.
Once those start to arrive, I will be able to start assembling them, pending my time availability (as well as my motorcycle trip, jun 15-28th.)
In the next few days I will post up the final details in the "Shopping Cart" section here as well as the "Vendors" section on ADVrider.
I am planning to charge $125 + Shipping for an assembled, waterproof, working device, which includes a wiring pigtail, as well as connectors for the fuel injectors, so as not to puncture the wire on the fuel injection harness. Clear, photographic instructions will be included.
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Sounds good to me
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im in
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I went out to the garage to have a close look at my K100RS with an eye toward considering mounting options. Did you ever post the dimensions of the unit? :hmm:
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I went out to the garage to have a close look at my K100RS with an eye toward considering mounting options. Did you ever post the dimensions of the unit? :hmm:
I believe it will be about 3.9 x 2.0 x 0.8 inches.
I am planning to mount mine with a suction cup on the gas tank.
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If you are taking Pre-Production orders I'm good for one, just let me know where and how to send the $$.
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i would like to have a bar end mount so i can see the dislay in my mirror...
j o
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I'm definitely still interested. I also need to know the form factor (dimensions, etc).
Tom
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I need one with a head-up display in my Oakleys.
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How about retinal projection Duck?
Form factor is a box, about 4 inches x 2 inches x 1 inch. Will do a computer mockup for better visualization soon.
Here is the box which I am using: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1591A.pdf (http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1591A.pdf)
Bottom will be drill-able for mounting, or glue/tape-able.
Decided to add a voltmeter to the device as well. For 30 cents (more like 15 in larger quantities), seemed like a good idea.
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Man, this just gets better 'n' better :2thumbup:
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Defintely on for one of these but going on holiday for a week so if you post in the shopping cart before then I won't be answering it for a while.
Just to check that these will definitely do UK Gallons ?
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Defintely on for one of these but going on holiday for a week so if you post in the shopping cart before then I won't be answering it for a while.
Just to check that these will definitely do UK Gallons ?
They can. You just have to change the values (Tank size and Fuel injector flow) to values in Uk gallons, rather than US gallons.
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Just ordered 100 of the circuit boards from china. Will be here in 8 days. Unfortunately, that is the day I am leaving for my road trip. I will work on getting some of these done after that.
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PCB's are in the mail. Delivery date: 6/13.
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Just got the PCB's in today. They look good. Ordered the rest of the parts. Will start to assemble them when the parts get in. When I get the boards assembled, I will start finalizing the enclosures.
Meanwhile, I have my prototype boxed up, and have it running on the bike. It is working great.
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Well, the prototype is perfoming great. I'm homing in on the time it takes the injector to open. They are quicker than the 500 uS default value. think its about 300 uS. Will see as it gets calibrated, should be constant across k bikes.
Currently, it is at about - 5% on the fuel usage, but spot on for distance. Should be getting more accurate as i lock down the values.
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Good news on the production front: all 25 boards of the initial batch are assembled.
I need to do quality control on them, and check one of the capacitors: one was inadvertently switched on one of the boards, so i need to go in with a magnifying glass, and check them all.
Once that is completed, I will add the displays, as well as the wires for the switches and input. At that point the enclosure will have been finalized, and i will be ready to order and manufacture the enclosures. I have found some good switches, which were causing me some difficulty to find for a reasonable price. The ones i settled on are nice, have a good feel, and are waterproof. Cost about 3 bucks a pop, though. Still cheaper than most other waterproof switches.
Getting close to sending them out now. Will be ready about a week and a half after i get back from Ghana, which will be 9 days from now.
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when in ghanda say high to gandhi for me... we go way back... just tell him j o sends his regards...
j o
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We have friends just south of Johannesburg, Peet & Carole, if you happen to get down that way.
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Enclosure: I don't have a link but somebody over on ADV found a site where you can CAD your design online and they make it for you.
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Enclosure: I don't have a link but somebody over on ADV found a site where you can CAD your design online and they make it for you.
Ive seen some of those. Looked into it, but most are not waterproof. More expensive too.
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The last parts are ordered for the enclosures. They are getting pretty close to being done.
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Here is the draft of the installation instructions. Feel free to peruse, and comment on clarity. The actual numbers may be subject to change.
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If n yo aint a eghed ven ya dunt ned instruchtns
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Guess I'm an egghead cause I read past the egghead section and found the pretty pictures that explained it on my level.
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Update on the Manufacturing Front!
I just finished machining the faces of the devices. Lots and lots of holes. But the final product is getting very close. I will have one assembled, except for the cable gland/protector tomorrow.
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I was just thinking about your project yesterday... good to read you're making progress.
Thanks for keeping us informed.
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Here is the draft of the installation instructions. Feel free to peruse, and comment on clarity. The actual numbers may be subject to change.
Hey Man,
all in all these look really great. If you're really looking for feedback on clarity (especially if you sell these to complete k-noobs, making it super easy) read on: if not that's cool too! These are just my thoughts
I'd avoid giving any directions on how to get at the relay box, that's well documented elsewhere, just link to it or tell people to look it up
there are a few relays in the box; in order to not confuse them, maybe a photo of the flasher relay? Any considerations for signalminder folks?
Where you've marked the connections as RED/GREEN, etc. Maybe use the common wire colors instead? So the 'blue wire' isn't confused with the 'blue mark'
that's it .. just nitpicks... super excited to try the finished product!!!!
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Here is the draft of the installation instructions. Feel free to peruse, and comment on clarity. The actual numbers may be subject to change.
Hey Man,
all in all these look really great. If you're really looking for feedback on clarity (especially if you sell these to complete k-noobs, making it super easy) read on: if not that's cool too! These are just my thoughts
I'd avoid giving any directions on how to get at the relay box, that's well documented elsewhere, just link to it or tell people to look it up
there are a few relays in the box; in order to not confuse them, maybe a photo of the flasher relay? Any considerations for signalminder folks?
Where you've marked the connections as RED/GREEN, etc. Maybe use the common wire colors instead? So the 'blue wire' isn't confused with the 'blue mark'
that's it .. just nitpicks... super excited to try the finished product!!!!
Great thoughts. I will make those changes. Thanks.
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I think you should send free ones to all of the admins here and get their opinions.
(Not that I'm biased or anything.)
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All the chips are programmed. Now gotta coat the boards with enamel, add wires, put them in the enclosures, and send them out. I'm planning to have them ready to ship on August 10th.
I am going to price this first batch of 25 (minus one for me) for 125 dollars each, or $225 for two, plus shipping.
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I'm in for one out of the first batch for sure. Maybe a second but I can only cope with taking one bike apart at a time at the moment !
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Any pics of the finished product?
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Any pics of the finished product?
Not finished yet :P
I've been doing assembly line production, doing one step at a time. I soldered 700 pins in a row for the 28 pin main processor. Then did 25 of each other component.
I'll make a mockup tonight and post a pic.
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Here's a picture. Not the best pic, but this is what the device will look like. There will be a cable coming out of the top, and the lcd screen will be clearer (the protective film is still on this one).
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Looks pretty good. How about a YouTube demo vid? (When you have time.)
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Send one to Touratech so they can manufacture a locking handlebar mount! :giggles
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Send one to Touratech so they can manufacture a locking handlebar mount! :giggles
You could mount with internal screws, and glue it shut.
Looks pretty good. How about a YouTube demo vid? (When you have time.)
I'll try to get one soon. The functionality is mostly the same as my earlier video, albeit in a nice package, with buttons that have nice tactile feedback.
Menus for a motobrick mpg gauge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSDy-TG54bU#)
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All the chips are programmed. Now gotta coat the boards with enamel, add wires, put them in the enclosures, and send them out. I'm planning to have them ready to ship on August 10th.
I am going to price this first batch of 25 (minus one for me) for 125 dollars each, or $225 for two, plus shipping.
Where and how do you want my money??
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All the chips are programmed. Now gotta coat the boards with enamel, add wires, put them in the enclosures, and send them out. I'm planning to have them ready to ship on August 10th.
I am going to price this first batch of 25 (minus one for me) for 125 dollars each, or $225 for two, plus shipping.
Where and how do you want my money??
I will be doing paypal, as it is easiest. Shipping will be finalized once I get them assembled, and can figure out how much it would cost to ship.
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You can put me down for one. You will need to tell me how to change it to real measurements not those prehistoric gallon thingies. :laugh
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I'd use Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes. The USPS will deliver the boxes to your house.
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I'd use Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes. The USPS will deliver the boxes to your house.
I'm inclined to use those, but figure it will cost an extra 5 bucks a box. It doesn't fit in a small flat rate box. Too narrow. Next size up it 12 bucks.
So it looks like it will be about 8 bucks for shipping to the Continental US, boxes, and bubble wrap.
So the price is $125 + $8 Shipping + Handling. $225 + $8 for 2 of them.
If you want to reserve one, PM me. When I finish them, you will have one guaranteed.
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I'd use Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes. The USPS will deliver the boxes to your house.
I'm inclined to use those, but figure it will cost an extra 5 bucks a box. It doesn't fit in a small flat rate box. Too narrow. Next size up it 12 bucks.
So it looks like it will be about 8 bucks for shipping to the Continental US, boxes, and bubble wrap.
So the price is $125 + $8 Shipping + Handling. $225 + $8 for 2 of them.
If you want to reserve one, PM me. When I finish them, you will have one guaranteed.
You can always ship PM by weight. It will most definitely in either a O-1096L box or an O-BOX4.
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I'd use Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes. The USPS will deliver the boxes to your house.
I'm inclined to use those, but figure it will cost an extra 5 bucks a box. It doesn't fit in a small flat rate box. Too narrow. Next size up it 12 bucks.
So it looks like it will be about 8 bucks for shipping to the Continental US, boxes, and bubble wrap.
So the price is $125 + $8 Shipping + Handling. $225 + $8 for 2 of them.
If you want to reserve one, PM me. When I finish them, you will have one guaranteed.
You can always ship PM by weight. It will most definitely in either a O-1096L box or an O-BOX4.
That's perfect. Free too (for the boxes). Ordered 25 sheets of labels, and 25 of the O-Box 4's.
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Priority Mail is awesome:
1) They deliver free boxes to you doorstep.
2) If you set up an account at the USPS site then you can print postage at home and just drop the packages off at the PO without having to wait in line.
3) I prefer to use the USPS site over PayPal for printing labels because you can print them 2-up and then pay via PayPal. (Using inexpensive 2-up adhesive labels purchased on Fleabay.)
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Manufacturing pics:
Programming the chips.
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Ah, that workplace looks like a safety hazzard to me. Stop the production line! Call in the OSHA! :laugh
Good job on the build.
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It should have an option for scrolling text: "Long Live The Motobrick!" :mbird
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Work is moving along on these. My grandmother passed away (On her 99th birthday, on no medications) so I had to go back to Pittsburgh earlier this week.
I am going to finish the first five or so on sunday, to be ready to ship this coming week.
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Very sorry to hear of your Grandmother's passing, Max. Glad it went easy for her. It's the people who are left that it's hard on.
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First one is done! Just waiting for some posi-taps in the mail, and some nuts for the cord grips (the black thing on the bottom).
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Just find out the postage to OZ and I will get some dollars on their way for one.
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2 done. Looks like it will be about 20 bucks for shipping to OZ, but I need to check the cost once I get one boxed up.
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Hi WMax351,
My condolences on the loss of your grandmother. I trust she lived a good and full life.
In an earlier post you described the computer in development as having the wire bundle exiting from the top of the case. I thought that was great, as it would seem to make it easy to mount on the handlebar cover/pad on my old '85 K100RS and run the cable through one of the unused rocker switch ports. The latest info you've shared has the cable exiting the bottom of the case. Will all the computer be so configured?
Thanks a million for your clever work. :2thumbup:
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Hi WMax351,
My condolences on the loss of your grandmother. I trust she lived a good and full life.
In an earlier post you described the computer in development as having the wire bundle exiting from the top of the case. I thought that was great, as it would seem to make it easy to mount on the handlebar cover/pad on my old '85 K100RS and run the cable through one of the unused rocker switch ports. The latest info you've shared has the cable exiting the bottom of the case. Will all the computer be so configured?
Thanks a million for your clever work. :2thumbup:
That is a good point. I can do either, equally easily. I will drill a few of each, and you can choose when you order.
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Very nice work!
Would be interesting to consider if a configuration which could be surface mounted in the fairing cover might be possible. ;-)
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..."fairing cover...." what is this?
My fairing cover is ripstop nylon fabric that is stuffed in a bag when I'm on the road.
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Sorry, 46632307642 or 46632307641 to be more precise.
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It would be a fairly trivial modification. Cut a hole, and screw it in.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1591B.pdf (http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1591B.pdf)
This is the datasheet for the enclosure. You can buy some of the longer assembly screws, and cut a hole to fit. Alternatively, you could cut a hole, and use strapping, attached with bolts, washers and nuts.
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Good news! The first few are ready to ship. I've got 5 done, and a couple more very close, which will be ready to ship on monday.
I will post a thread (duck, can you sticky it when its there?) in the shopping cart, with an abbreviated version of this thread, along with ordering info.
In the meantime, my paypal email is maxwell.witt (at) berkeley.edu. You can send the money as a personal payment or as payment for goods.
The cost is $125, plus $8 shipping in the continental US. Email/pm me for international or ak/hi.
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Looking forward to adding this to my K! My apologies if this question was covered already in the thread ... how weatherproof is the assembly expected to be around the function buttons? Riding year round in the pacific northwest can get a bit soggy at times.
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Looking forward to adding this to my K! My apologies if this question was covered already in the thread ... how weatherproof is the assembly expected to be around the function buttons? Riding year round in the pacific northwest can get a bit soggy at times.
They are NEMA IP65. So they are protected from jets of water.
The whole thing should be very splashproof. The enclosure is supposedly NEMA IP54, which is splashproof. I add a thin layer of silicone to the lip, which should make it very well sealed. The screws holding the circuit to the face of the enclosure are o-ringed, so should be splashproof. The circuit itself is coated in enamel. The display board also appears to be coated as well.
As far as I can see, the only concern for the unlikely event of a small amount of water entering would be potential fogging of the enclosure, which can be rectified by opening the box and allowing to dry. You could also install a packet of silica gel to prevent it from recurring.
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Hey Max, I was wondering if you had posted the final firmware somewhere. I got my unit yesterday and i wanted to dig into it a bit before i installed it, but the instructions only say that they are posted at www.motobrick.com (http://www.motobrick.com).
You mentioned that it's released under GNU/GPL. I assume it would be ok to put my modded code up on github? (with proper attribution of course.)
let me know, thanks!
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Hey Max, I was wondering if you had posted the final firmware somewhere. I got my unit yesterday and i wanted to dig into it a bit before i installed it, but the instructions only say that they are posted at www.motobrick.com (http://www.motobrick.com).
You mentioned that it's released under GNU/GPL. I assume it would be ok to put my modded code up on github? (with proper attribution of course.)
let me know, thanks!
certainly.
The code is here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B29HQe4CE8wgcnlwMGJJMmJXZU0 (https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B29HQe4CE8wgcnlwMGJJMmJXZU0)
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what would you set fuel flow value to for the replacement bosch 4-hole injectors?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200808444924 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200808444924)
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what would you set fuel flow value to for the replacement bosch 4-hole injectors?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200808444924 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200808444924)
Do you know the fuel pressure? If it is 43ish, you will do the calculation with (180 cc/(minute * injector)) *4 injectors to get the flow in cc/minute. Then you convert to microseconds per gallon, which is 3.155×10^8.
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Will I have to change the settings in mine. Its a K1100.
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On the ebay link for the injectors it gives the flow rate but I think they are the same as stock its just the pattern is better?
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Will I have to change the settings in mine. Its a K1100.
Depends what the injectors and fuel pressures are. According to euromotoelectrics, it looks like the injectors flow 150.8 cc/minute, which works out to 3.765×10^8 microseconds per gallon for the whole engine.
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Will I have to change the settings in mine. Its a K1100.
Depends what the injectors and fuel pressures are. According to euromotoelectrics, it looks like the injectors flow 150.8 cc/minute, which works out to 3.765×10^8 microseconds per gallon for the whole engine.
AFIK the pressure and injectors are as from the factory, is it the same as K100.
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Will I have to change the settings in mine. Its a K1100.
Depends what the injectors and fuel pressures are. According to euromotoelectrics, it looks like the injectors flow 150.8 cc/minute, which works out to 3.765×10^8 microseconds per gallon for the whole engine.
AFIK the pressure and injectors are as from the factory, is it the same as K100.
Is that for a 4 valve or a 2 valve. If that is the case, there are 3 or 4, 133 cc per minute (at 2.5 bar) injectors.
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Its a 16V K1100LT
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Depends what the injectors and fuel pressures are. According to euromotoelectrics, it looks like the injectors flow 150.8 cc/minute, which works out to 3.765×10^8 microseconds per gallon for the whole engine.
This seems to be the right number. Put it in, and run it for a tank. See how the numbers compare to the actual ones.
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Thanks will do
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Rick, could you report back results to this thread after you test? I'll need to make the same entry when I get around to the install.
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Rick, could you report back results to this thread after you test? I'll need to make the same entry when I get around to the install.
I will get back with the results but it will be a few weeks away.
Three weeks ago I took a fall carring some fire wood and broke my left arm about half way from wrist to elbow so have a cast up to my armpit.
As you can gather I am a bit limited in what I can do. Not sure how much longer it will be as the break was a bit spiral as the doc put it and so it can take some time to heal.
The real bad part is that it is the best riding weather all year at this time.
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Ouch! Sorry to hear of your fall, Rick. I hope all goes well (and quick) on the recovery!
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Yikes, rest easy and heal well!
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Starting to ponder clean installation options without thinking too much about implementation details for now. Something like this would be clean.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/Random%20work/th_MPGInstallIdea.jpg) (http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/leecow/KBike/Random%20work/?action=view¤t=MPGInstallIdea.jpg)
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I've been pondering this very question too. I have changed out the OEM handlebar on my K100RS and replaced it with one from a K1100RS. This is slightly wider, and there are gaps between the switch pods and the bar cover. I'm wondering if I could us something like a GPS mount there to hold the computer. However, I don't know sh*t about those, not ever owning a GSP. Can someone recommend what brand/model may be suited for this application?
TIA
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I just found this searching for MPGuino projects on BMW motorcycles.
This is a very interesting project and I'd like to implement it on my bike. It's not a K, but an R (1997 R850RT ex-Dutch police).
I want to make more of a bike-computer, but the mileage stuff is great, being real time and all. I'd want to implement more stuff like a data logger feature which records things like position and sensor data from a accelerometer.
Reason I post here (and revive a sleeping thread) is that I'd like to know if this would work on a R. Is het injection system very differen? What data do I need to know if I was to adapt the fuel monitor system to work on the R..RT.
My version might look more like the scooterputer (http://www.janspace.com/b2evolution/arduino.php/2010/06/26/scooterputer) ;)
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I just found this searching for MPGuino projects on BMW motorcycles.
This is a very interesting project and I'd like to implement it on my bike. It's not a K, but an R (1997 R850RT ex-Dutch police).
I want to make more of a bike-computer, but the mileage stuff is great, being real time and all. I'd want to implement more stuff like a data logger feature which records things like position and sensor data from a accelerometer.
Reason I post here (and revive a sleeping thread) is that I'd like to know if this would work on a R. Is het injection system very differen? What data do I need to know if I was to adapt the fuel monitor system to work on the R..RT.
My version might look more like the scooterputer (http://www.janspace.com/b2evolution/arduino.php/2010/06/26/scooterputer) ;)
Cool Project. The fuel system is identical as far as the computer is concerned. It just looks for pulsed voltage.
You would need to find the conditioned signal from the speedometer.
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I just found this searching for MPGuino projects on BMW motorcycles.
This is a very interesting project and I'd like to implement it on my bike. It's not a K, but an R (1997 R850RT ex-Dutch police).
I want to make more of a bike-computer, but the mileage stuff is great, being real time and all. I'd want to implement more stuff like a data logger feature which records things like position and sensor data from a accelerometer.
Reason I post here (and revive a sleeping thread) is that I'd like to know if this would work on a R. Is het injection system very differen? What data do I need to know if I was to adapt the fuel monitor system to work on the R..RT.
My version might look more like the scooterputer (http://www.janspace.com/b2evolution/arduino.php/2010/06/26/scooterputer) ;)
Cool Project. The fuel system is identical as far as the computer is concerned. It just looks for pulsed voltage.
You would need to find the conditioned signal from the speedometer.
Ok, thanks for that. I'll have to pop the dash and take some readings then... ;)
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Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum. I have just bought a 1989 K100RS and waiting for it to be delivered from Adelaide to Sydney (Australia). I have been browsing the forums to get more familiar with the K bikes. I had a '84 K100RS for a short while in the '90s.
Anyway, I was following this thread with great interest, and it suddenly ends at this point. Was the concept developed further, perhaps continued on another thread?
If anyone has a link to this project, or something similar, I would greatly appreciate it.
Kind regards,
Chris
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http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2997.msg17715.html#msg17715
Right here. I'm a bit backlogged though, since I've been busy with work.
Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum. I have just bought a 1989 K100RS and waiting for it to be delivered from Adelaide to Sydney (Australia). I have been browsing the forums to get more familiar with the K bikes. I had a '84 K100RS for a short while in the '90s.
Anyway, I was following this thread with great interest, and it suddenly ends at this point. Was the concept developed further, perhaps continued on another thread?
If anyone has a link to this project, or something similar, I would greatly appreciate it.
Kind regards,
Chris
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Thanks for that!
Chris