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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jhurdle on April 04, 2012, 12:41:55 AM
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Probably a dumb question but what is the best way to clean and grease the swingarm bearings on a K75? I have the swingarm off the bike since I was lubing clutch splines and thought I should go ahead and give the bearings some attention. I have removed the outer dust seal but there is another inboard seal preventing access to the bearings. Should I pry this out? Thanks.
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To get the center of the bearing out put a round bar like a large screwdriver in the hole and give it a sharp pull but be careful as the rollers are liable to scatter to the far reaches of the workshop (do it inside a big plastic bag).
The plastic cage to hold the rollers may be in a couple of bits but if the bearing faces are good I just put it back together with plenty of grease to hold everything in place and when you put the inner race and dust shield back in a firm push with your hand is usually all that is needed to seat it.
I use the same grease as I use on the splines.
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Thanks. I went ahead and degreased the bearings and repacked them "in place". It was kind of a pain. Since the bike has ~12000 miles I figured I didn't need to inspect the bearings; just wanted to put some new grease while I had everything apart. I will likely try your approach next time.
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If it's a paralever model, you might also consider http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html (http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html) when it comes time to replace them.
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If it's a paralever model, you might also consider http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html (http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html) when it comes time to replace them.
Those are kind of spendy IMO but the factory ones really aren't that great. If you're getting up in miles (like 50k or more) and planning a spline lube that might be a good time to do it.
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I found some non-sealed type bearings that are much cheaper. Less than 30 bucks, iirc. Much easier to clean/re-grease. They are 32203 bearings. 17x17.25x40 mm size, tapered roller.
With a machined spacer, you could use 30203 bearings (notice there is only one "2"), which are for the wheels and older swingarms for airheads. They are 17x13.25x40 mm. The spacer would be a 17mm ID, Width (height) of 4mm.
Snowbum prefers the non-sealed type on his airheads for easier, more frequent greasing.
The bearings seem fine for street use. Maybe even overkill. They provide extremely rigidity, without significant drag or wear: something that bushings can't do. There is no slop in a bmw swingarm.
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Hmmm... where do you find look up the dimensions on those?
The BMW parts catalog shows the left swing arm bearing as a 40x17x17 and the paralever bearings are both 10x32x17.
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Hmmm... where do you find look up the dimensions on those?
The BMW parts catalog shows the left swing arm bearing as a 40x17x17 and the paralever bearings are both 10x32x17.
The mono-lever are both 17x17x40 nominal, but measure out at 17.25mm, and this varies by what source you find the info, even though the bearing may be exactly the same number (32203). The same is true for the 30203 bearings.
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To get the center of the bearing out put a round bar like a large screwdriver in the hole and give it a sharp pull but be careful as the rollers are liable to scatter to the far reaches of the workshop (do it inside a big plastic bag).
Can anyone help me understand this?
How can I open up the swingarm bearings to lube them?
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Maybe using the screwdriver as a slide-less slide-hammer, the handle acting as the hammer when the shaft protruding outward through the bearing's center is pulled. It's evocative imagery anyway, as is working inside a plastic bag.
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greetings...
every time ive had my swing arm off its been a balancing act to keep the needles in there as the inner race comes off by gravity or a slight tug...
i never lubed them... only put the race back on and secured it with zip ties to keep the needles in there...
im thinking you could smear some lube on the needles and put the race back on... i have heard of folks doing that to keep the race on there during reassembly...
the only time i lost some needles is the only time i replaced the bearings... had them pressed out and and pressed in at a gas station with a hydraulic press... could have popped them out with a socket that fit the hole and whacked it with a bf hammer... butts i went the safe route and hired it out on a press...
o... lior replaced a set once too on a fd rebuild... he also used a press butts he used the mandatory bearing tool...
j o
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Thanks, All.
I got them out.
My races are fairly notchy so I should replace them.
Where do ya buy 32203 bearings?
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Tim, Oldgoat on K100 forum recommended SNR branded bearings from Motion Industries (https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=02327349). Difficult bearing set to locate apparently.
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Looks like these will fit: http://www.mooseracing.com/products/?productId=114491&productGroupId=1560&partNumber=A281058
And only $30 for the pair.
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Isn't that the set that needs a 4mm spacer, Tim, according to wmax?
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Yeah - You're right :(
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Some of the bikes they list do use the exact same 17x17x40 bearing.
For example, 87-95 R100-RT and R100-R 1990-95.
I'll give a Moose Racing dealer a call in the morning. Maybe that ring in the product image is a spacer?
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Called Randy @ Motion Industries and he could not locate any brand of 32203 anywhere in the US. He suggested surplus houses.
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This is a money-saving attempt, right? I was curious about the bearings and Max's parts fiche shows them available for almost $70 each ($140 total). Kind of makes you want to search for a used swingarm from a crashed low-milage bike...
...like this one on e-baby for $9.00 and $30 shipping from a bike with 1,200 miles on it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-BMW-K75-K-75-S-750-K75S-swingarm-swing-arm-/400842814543?hash=item5d5417f44f:g:x6wAAOSw-W5UtVSm&vxp=mtr
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Not a bad idea, however if those ebay parts from that 91 k75 (http://stores.ebay.com/Mikes-Motorcycle-Parts/_i.html?_nkw=k75+91&_arm=1&_armi=BMW&_armm=351&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fstores.ebay.com%2FMikes-Motorcycle-Parts%2FBMW-%2F_i.html%3F_nkw%3Dk75%2B91%26_arr%3D1%26_fsub%3D15838934018%26_sid%3D73861708&_sid=73861708&_rdc=1) really have 1200 miles on them, I'm a monkey's uncle.
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Good idea......probably it's complete with grease cups....which I see is missing on the svingarm
belonging to the monkey's uncle Tim, at least on the side shown in the picture.
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Well.... many (but not all) things on eBay are true. I don't have any experience with that seller, but if I needed bearings, I'd ask a few questions and probably give it a try. He did include a picture of an odometer - assumably from the same motorcycle.
I could imagine this scenario: Bike sits for a super long time. Somebody gets the idea to get "ole grandad's" bike going again. It miraculously fires up with nothing but fresh gas. However, the 20-year old stock tires let loose on the first corner... and we have ourselves a low-mileage parts bike.
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Hope you're right. I just bought it after I mangled the shit out of my swingarm removing one of the races.
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Another one here, Tim, if you want to start hoarding. I've bought from him a couple of times—no problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Swing-Arm-K100-K75-Black-/221123781592
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Scud's ebay recommendation arrived today and it was in good shape. Looks like the parted ebay bike had been sitting outside a long time but not ridden much.
I put the old and new swing-arms side by side on the table and they both matched. Neither was bent or dented. The bearing grease in the ebay arm was clean and thick. The outer races in the ebay arm are in good shape. Cleaned it all up, packed the bearings with marine EP grease and reassembled. Put the bike back together in the driveway. Brrrrr. Put a new bottle of GL5 80W90 on the bike so I won't forget to fill the gearbox back up before riding. :nono
Lubed the splines with the last of the Castrol Optimol paste TA (BMW recommended) and ordered some Guard Dog 525 (https://guarddogmoly.com/product/gd-525-moly-grease-synthetic-2/) for the future.
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So glad that worked out - thanks for the update. That race looks perfect. Does this now imply that one of your siblings is the parent of a simian? :hehehe (i.e. you are a monkey's uncle)
I'll be following you on this procedure soon (well, as soon as my Guzzi gets back together*) - very helpful posts. :2thumbup:
On the gearbox - I recently put Redline Shockproof heavy duty gear oil in my K75 transmission. It smoothed everything out noticeably.
*footnote - the swingarm bearings on my Guzzi LeMans are shot, and I am swapping the entire swingarm from a low-mileage bike. That's what made think of the suggestion for you.
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... I recently put Redline Shockproof heavy duty gear oil in my K75 transmission. It smoothed everything out noticeably.
Thanks for the tip! I picked up two quarts today at Cycle Gear (branded as Red Line V-Twin Transmission Oil with ShockProof (http://amzn.to/1MQddjH))
I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff. Red Line's site says "Same fluid as our unique Heavy ShockProof® Gear Oil (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=119&)".
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Yeah - I think Redline is going after the large Harley market with that branding.
Anyway, since you have so much experience with your K75, I'l be especially interested to hear if you notice a difference with that oil in the tranny. Wait till you see how sticky it is.
FYI - I run the same stuff in the final drives of my bikes. It's convenient to have just one type of oil for three trannys and three final drives.
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I'm tempted to use it in the final drive but I'll probably stick with Mobil 1 75W90. I've had no problems with it for the 60k miles I've ridden the K75, and info I've read in this post. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6472.0)
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Took a 60 mile ride today with the Red Line Heavy in the gearbox and I can't say I noticed any obvious improvement. Sure, it shifted smooth, but it did before anyway.
I did have an issue when I was downshifting from 3rd gear as I approached a red light and the the gearbox brought me all the way to 1st gear with just a single foot action. Good thing I had the clutch engaged and wasn't going too fast.
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Good to know. Thanks for reporting your experience.
I think my bike had been neglected - so now I will assume that the big difference I noticed was due to other factors, such as old and degraded oil the transmission - or maybe not enough oil.