Post by: DRxBMW on March 28, 2012, 09:01:26 PM
FWIW, the Mustang pump works well,read save your hard earned money for another bricK.
The PDF attachments have pictures, fuel pump notes are from Damun Gracein.
A long time ago I read the IBMWR tech page on replacing the now $370 BMW fuel pump with an Escort/Taurus/Mustang submersible fuel pump.
With a little research I determined that the Purolator Facet FEP 2042 is an equivalent. Just to have a spare around, I bought one on eBay for $30 a couple of years ago.
Yesterday I got back to working on my K75 project bike. I'd left the fuel pump out for quite a while and it was frozen - FARK!!!
Now I'd have a chance to see if the $30 solution would work. Sure enough, it did.
It only took a few minutes and was very easy to do:
1) Remove the old fuel pump. a) Undo the hose clamp and take the fuel hose off. b) Undo the electrical connections(7mm and 8mm) c) Pop the plastic clips at the front and rear of the mounting ring. (You don't need to undo the 8 nuts on the plastic mounting ring.)
2) Once out of the tank, slide the old fuel pump body out of the incredibly expensive rubber vibration mounting ring.
3) The diameter of the FEP2042 is much less than that of the BMW fuel pump. There's a section of submersible fuel hose that comes with the fuel pump. How convenient. I cut it's length to slightly less than the diameter of the new fuel pump, ran a nylon zip-tie through it and wrapped it around the new fuel pump and secured it with the zip-tie. With a few minutes of careful cramming I was able to get it nicely lodged in the vibration mounting ring.
4) Attach the pre-filter that comes with it to the bottom of the new pump. If you fold it up a bit it will fit nicely in the fuel pump "pocket" of the gas tank. Insert your new fuel pump assembly into the fuel pump hole in the tank and make sure the clips pop into place.
5) The nozzle on the top of the fuel pump has a slightly larger diameter than the BMW one but the hose will fit over it. The IBMWR instructions say that the BMW hose clamp is too small to work. Not true. If you drop the hose clamp on first and then slide the fuel hose on you can use the old hose clamp.
6) Wire it up. Cut the ring terminals off of the black and yellow fuel pump wires from the tank. Put female blade connectors on each wire and crimp carefully. I used bare metal ones - who knows if the plastic on covered ones would dissolve in gas. Attach the black wire (ground) to the narrower blade terminal on the fuel pump. Attach the yellow wire to the wider blade terminal.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fuel pump notes:
Synopsis of episodes 1 - 6:: Lots of us are having troubles with 1985
K100's. They quit intermittently, often while hot. We've found the anti-thft
alarm, various HES maladies, , FI relay, dirty kill switch, clogged fuel
filters, bad grounds at frame, battery, starter.
It was the fuel pump. This time.
The intake screen had torn, admitting particles into the pump. Sometimes
the pump worked. Sometimes it didn't. Especially when slowing after a
high-rev run
One day, it just quit..
When I took the old pump apart to use the can for the smaller aftermarket
pump, I found the innards to be quite nasty and corroded. Amazing that it
ran at all.
The seminal event was phase separation of water globules, MTBE, and
methanol. This makes slime that suspend any hard particles that enter the
tank with it. Many folks with long-idle machinery such as generators and
lawnmowers are finding the slime, since they started adding corn liquor to
gasoline. I'm guessing infrequent riders are finding short-life fuel
filters.
Two years ago I cleaned The Blob out the tank. Quite likely when
reassembling, I stretched the fuel strainer enough to start what became a
rip.
BMW does not offer strainers for the OEM 51mm pump to fit the 1985 K100 tank
hole. One could take a Dremel tool to the later model strainer, and use the
slot from the busted plastic matrix clip as a pass-through for the vent
pipe, and with luck make it fit. I did that, but it was too late to save the
pump.
The new pump has a sock, which is a bi of a task to maneuver, but I feel it
will work better than the small strainer basket. I had to drill through the
pump matrix, into the tank shelf, and use a sheet metal screw as by now both
plastic tabs had busted off. Seems to work well.
Pump specs: Facet-Purolator FEP2042 In-Tank Fuel Pump, 1991-1993 Ford
Escort, 1986-1995 Ford Taurus, 1988-1994 Lincoln Continental, 1986-1995
Mercury Sable, 1991-1993 Mercury Tracer. About $40. Positive (violet) to big
tab, neg (gray) to small tab.
First guy who did it and wrote about it:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fuel-pump-install.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fuel-pump-install.shtml)
A few good articles by guys on this list should be in the archives under
/files.
If you remove the tank for cleaning, remember to hook up the fuel lines
before you start the bike. I will smell like gasoline until the apples
blossom.
Damun Gracenin
1985 K100 RS
Post by: frankenduck on March 29, 2012, 01:27:28 PM
Post by: frankenduck on April 23, 2012, 01:52:47 PM
To replace the older 52mm fuel pump you can buy a Purolator/Facet FEP2042 37mm fuel pump for about $50 and then buy the foam adaptor from EME for $14: Click here (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Fuel-Pump-Foam-Adaptor-16-12-14-61-576-p/fp-576foam.htm)
For the newer, smaller 43mm fuel pump the foam for fitting the aftermarket pump is $9: Click here (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-231foam.htm)
Post by: DRxBMW on April 23, 2012, 02:02:24 PM
Euro Moto Eletrics sells a complete fuel pump replacement kit for $135: Click here (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-R-K-VDO-Repl-Fuel-Pump-16-14-1-341-231-p/fp-231kit+.htm)
To replace the older 52mm fuel pump you can buy a Purolator/Facet FEP2042 37mm fuel pump for about $50 and then buy the foam adaptor from EME for $14: Click here (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Fuel-Pump-Foam-Adaptor-16-12-14-61-576-p/fp-576foam.htm)
For the newer, smaller 43mm fuel pump the foam for fitting the aftermarket pump is $9: Click here (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-231foam.htm)
Excellent deal if your in search mode for a plug and play FP.
Post by: frankenduck on April 23, 2012, 02:47:55 PM
By the way, if your vibration dampener and/or nylon mounting are shot then EME has those too for slightly less than what they'd cost at a dealer.
Post by: frankenduck on April 23, 2012, 02:49:00 PM
Post by: enb54 on June 06, 2012, 06:36:14 PM
Just signed up and ordered this $18 kit off of ebay for my 1991 K75RT (e/w ABS)... Thanks for the info...
Post by: rbm on June 06, 2012, 10:03:28 PM
Post by: frankenduck on June 06, 2012, 10:06:27 PM
On warmer days or after a long ride, the pump on my 88 K100RT will start to make a loud buzzing not unlike the sound bees make. The sound is louder with 1/2 tank or less. Is this a symptom of impending pump failure? If so, I'm probably best advised to get one of these kits quickly.
No, my K75RT used to do that and it never had a FP failure. (Used to drive me NUTS as a relatively new K owner until I figured out what it was.)
Post by: DRxBMW on June 07, 2012, 12:21:22 AM
On warmer days or after a long ride, the pump on my 88 K100RT will start to make a loud buzzing not unlike the sound bees make. The sound is louder with 1/2 tank or less. Is this a symptom of impending pump failure? If so, I'm probably best advised to get one of these kits quickly.
No, my K75RT used to do that and it never had a FP failure. (Used to drive me NUTS as a relatively new K owner until I figured out what it was.)
double check the high vent hose,strange noises emit if it's pinched, DAMHIFK
FP in my whip is OEM, almost 200,000 of miles & smiles so far. :bmwsmile :bmwsmile
Post by: Scott_ on June 07, 2012, 07:51:14 AM
On warmer days or after a long ride, the pump on my 88 K100RT will start to make a loud buzzing not unlike the sound bees make. The sound is louder with 1/2 tank or less. Is this a symptom of impending pump failure? If so, I'm probably best advised to get one of these kits quickly.
No, my K75RT used to do that and it never had a FP failure. (Used to drive me NUTS as a relatively new K owner until I figured out what it was.)
That's how the bricks got the nick name of "K-whiners"
Post by: enb54 on June 27, 2012, 09:09:33 PM
P.S.... It is a "HERKO" M-2042
Post by: mjydrafter on September 13, 2012, 09:06:27 AM
Anyway, I did some poking around and found the $18 Herko/ebay fuel pump (thanks Motobrickers :yes), but it is quite a bit smaller than the original (original is 52mm and the ebay/herko is 37mm). So this is what I came up with to replace the $100 assembly of the surround and the sleeve that you need to adapt the smaller/less expensive pump to the surround.
First, you will need the right size of foam backer rod. This foam is made for construction, as a spacer in concrete for expansion, it looks like this:
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/backer-rods-right-image03.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/backerrod.gif)
You basically stuff it in a crack and then caulk over it. It's a cheap spacer, so you aren't filling the crack with the more expensive caulking product. It is a closed cell polyethylene foam, that comes in sizes ranging from 1/4" to 6" diameter. If you look up polyethylene you will find it is pretty impervious to chemical attack. There isn't any way to "glue" it because of this property. So it should be suitable for work in a fuel tank. Should even be ethanol proof.
I had a leftover piece of 2.75" leftover from another project. That size is a bit larger than the "hole" the pump assembly sits in. I used a 3.5" length.
You will need a way to "core" out the piece lengthwise, I used a piece of scrap bicycle frame tubing. That I sharpened so it would cut easily and straight through the rod. (When I was first working on it, I used an un-sharpened piece of tubing to make the core, but it cut a "cone" out instead of a nice hole.) I used the sharpened tube kind of like a drill (by hand) and went half way through from one end and then went in the other half from the other end to make sure the hole wasn't cone shaped. It was ~1" diameter, so the pump fits in pretty snugly. Like this:
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/IMG_6924s.jpg)
What I didn't get a picture of was the zip ties I used to hold the prefilter on with. These just go through the center of the backer rod and hold the screen in place while you stuff it into the hole. Once you get it in the hole ad the lock ring, and hook everything back up.
Here is the what it looks like:
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/IMG_6925s.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/IMG_6926s.jpg)
So far it has been working fine. About the only thing I've noticed is the backer rod kind of turns clear in the tank once in fuel, but it's still there and not dissolving or anything. I needed to replace the in tank fuel line as well, this silly piece of hose is ~$30 from Napa (or anywhere else I looked, and only available in 1' lengths :yow)
Part of the reason I used the larger piece of backer rod, was that this thing will want to float on top of the fuel, so it needs to be held in pretty well, so I wanted the wedging action in the tank and the lock ring to really hold everything down.
I will update this post if anything changes.
Fuel pump - $18 shipped from ebay.
6' piece of backer rod - ~$12 full retail (you could make ~20 of these though. :laugh)
1' piece of in tank fuel line - ~$28
Post by: leecow on September 13, 2012, 09:57:18 AM
Post by: mjydrafter on September 13, 2012, 10:51:12 AM
Pretty standard for "most" electric fuel pumps.
Another thing I remembered was, you must cut 2 small notches in the top area for the lock ring tabs to go into. Make them a bit larger than the tabs, so that the tabs can flex into them when you snap it in. And so that they can go in if you need to remove the assembly.
I'm not sure if I can get a decent picture of it in the tank but I will try.
Post by: plateau on January 25, 2013, 01:19:28 PM
regarding the installation of the aftermarket pump- is it necessary to retain the original strainer basket or use the one that comes with the pump. Which leads to my 2nd question. Is it necessary to keep the vent hose that goes from the basket to the gas cap area? I have read elsewhere, that this tube should be removed.
thanks
Post by: mjydrafter on January 25, 2013, 01:50:51 PM
greetings.
regarding the installation of the aftermarket pump- is it necessary to retain the original strainer basket or use the one that comes with the pump. Which leads to my 2nd question. Is it necessary to keep the vent hose that goes from the basket to the gas cap area? I have read elsewhere, that this tube should be removed.
thanks
On the one I posted above did not reuse the old strainer. It won't work, and mine was completely fubar'd. I also did not have that vent line originally, so I still don't. Everything works just fine.
My stuff from above seems to be holding up just fine. Even took it for a ride last Saturday. :yes
Post by: frankenduck on January 25, 2013, 02:39:52 PM
Post by: mjydrafter on May 06, 2013, 08:12:39 PM
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc295/mjydrafter/20130506_163921_zpse298a766.jpg)
Still working.
Post by: Michael in AZ on August 17, 2013, 04:20:39 PM
[update] I see now what my problem was. I kept trying to use my OEM pre-filter basket on it's normal place outside the OEM vibe dampener (using Euromoto Electric Coozie -- sounds like a band from the 90's, doesn't it). Well now that I ordered an Airtrex 2042 pump, it comes with it's own pre-filter sock. That pre-filter has it's own vibration dampening solution, a plastic ring that extends past the pump and into the sock. So I guess anyone with a pre-filer sock is not running into the problem that I have had. I could delete, but it seems like someone else might try to use the OEM pre-filter like I did and run into the same problem. Will remove post if requested.
Post by: WayneDW on August 22, 2013, 08:24:50 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-EFI-Fuel-Pump-BMW-K75-K100-K750-1000-1100-K1-1200-1983-1999-/161090826668?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3AK75&hash=item2581c2f1ac&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-EFI-Fuel-Pump-BMW-K75-K100-K750-1000-1100-K1-1200-1983-1999-/161090826668?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3AK75&hash=item2581c2f1ac&vxp=mtr)
$70, free shipping seems nice!
also here on their web site:
http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-335661-fuel-delivery-motorcycle-scooter-fuel-pumps-bmw.html (http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-335661-fuel-delivery-motorcycle-scooter-fuel-pumps-bmw.html)
Post by: KJeff on August 23, 2013, 10:05:50 AM
Post by: Lawrence on August 23, 2013, 12:04:46 PM
Post by: argilla11 on December 08, 2014, 02:19:33 AM
Post by: kris on February 20, 2015, 10:55:40 AM
The fellow at NAPA told me the Escort pump runs at 80-90 psi....gallons per hour 30-35. I saw on one of the messages that the psi range is around 43. Does the higher rating, if accurate, matter?
Thanks!
Post by: Inge K. on February 20, 2015, 08:05:32 PM
the pressure to 36 psi....it will also do that to the Escort pump, or any other.
Post by: kris on February 21, 2015, 07:42:11 AM
Post by: jenkinskg on May 28, 2015, 02:20:50 PM
Put a piece of radiator hose around it, then it fit snugly into tank.
Works awsome , no issues at all
Post by: caseyvr6 on August 31, 2016, 12:56:57 PM
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23899630-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-bmw-k75-k75c-k75rt-k75s-1984-1996.html (http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23899630-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-bmw-k75-k75c-k75rt-k75s-1984-1996.html)
Pair this up with the NAPA 3032 fuel filter, which is about $4 instead of the $35 dealer filter, and it's a great service for a price my wife won't give me the "we have all these projects and you spent what?" conversation for...
Post by: Laitch on August 31, 2016, 02:13:55 PM
Post by: TX brick on September 02, 2016, 08:24:52 AM
I realize this is a very old post, but since I found it through a google search I though it was a good idea to update. I found this pump, works great and can't beat the price. Free shipping, and it's OEM size/spec so I was pretty happy about the find.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23899630-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-bmw-k75-k75c-k75rt-k75s-1984-1996.html (http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23899630-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-bmw-k75-k75c-k75rt-k75s-1984-1996.html)
Pair this up with the NAPA 3032 fuel filter, which is about $4 instead of the $35 dealer filter, and it's a great service for a price my wife won't give me the "we have all these projects and you spent what?" conversation for...
I think the pump size changed near the end of the production run(93?) so this pump may not fit the later years.
Post by: Laitch on September 02, 2016, 11:54:11 AM
I think the pump size changed near the end of the production run(93?) so this pump may not fit the later years.As you have indicated, TX brick, it's wise to be certain that aftermarket parts will fit the intended application.
How I read caseyvr6's post is that he ordered one of those pumps, installed it in his 1995 K75 and is satisfied with how it works. Maybe he'll add a post to verify that.
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 02, 2016, 02:08:47 PM
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 08, 2016, 01:10:52 PM
Post by: jenkinskg on September 11, 2016, 10:02:00 PM
So mine was later tank, I also did not have the plastic clip at all, used the radiator hose as mentioned
FYI
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 18, 2016, 12:07:09 PM
Post by: stokester on September 18, 2016, 12:15:15 PM
Put a piece of radiator hose around it, then it fit snugly into tank.
Any concerns with that hose immersed in ethanol-laced fuel?
Post by: TX brick on September 18, 2016, 01:43:34 PM
So new pump was installed, with new NAPA filter, and seems to be pumping great (low noise, and with hose disconnected after filter fuel pours through line) but now I've got a new issue. The original issue, which was the coffin nail for the OE pump, was water in the tank. Now I think I have bad injectors from the same water, because the bike will start and run at idle but if I choke (even 1/2) or touch the throttle in the slightest the bike quits. I've tried the simplest tricks I can think of to get the water/gunk out of the injectors (dry gas, seafoam, injector cleaner) and let it idle for 30 minutes or so (I flushed the line with the cleaner by disconnecting the fuel line after the filter at the clamp on the hard line) but the issue is unimproved. I'm going to try to turn the injectors while attached to the manifold out to see if all 3 are spraying, any other suggestions? If I replace I'm going to go to the 415's or the 210's (http://www.ebay.com/itm/361500768184) for availability and cost more than the performance.
A bad airflow meter will also cause the RPM to not go above idle.
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 18, 2016, 06:06:18 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 18, 2016, 07:03:32 PM
Would this also cause a rough idle?The only things you seem to have described about your bike is that it's a 1995 K75 that has a new aftermarket fuel pump and a new fuel filter which were followed by an engine performance problem.
How long have you owned it? How many miles are on the bike? How many miles have you ridden it? What was the condition of the tank's interior when you installed the parts? What is its maintenance history? What other maintenance have you done to it?
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 18, 2016, 08:35:10 PM
The bike has miles on it, most of which were put there by myself or my father. He owned it since '99 and I purchased it from him about 8 years ago when he bough his K1200LT. The tank was shiny and clean, with minimal granular debris in the bottom which was cleaned out when the pump was replaced. The bike ran like new until this issue and has been maintained by myself on schedule.
The fuel pump had been whining for 2 seasons, at increasing decibels, and when the bike was left out in the rain by yours truly some water got into the tank because I was foolish enough to open the fuel fill cap while there was still water that had not drained from around the edges. I didn't know how much water had entered the tank, but had assumed somewhere near 1/4 cup of rainwater, so I added some fresh fuel and dry-gas and drove it. I made a 30 mile round trip when it started giving issues near home, with the fuel pump screaming at me from inside the tank. The bike would hardly maintain 30 mph and the throttle seemed more of a suggestion than a user interface. I turned around 2 miles away and crawled home, took my truck to work that day. To this moment the repairs for this issue include a brand-new fuel pump and filter, fully drained fuel tank (removed from bike, inverted, rinsed with fresh fuel and debris cleaned with clean dry rags. With a new pump, filter, clean/clear non-ethanol gas, and the lines flushed with new fluel to the hard-line inside the tank (tomorrow it's going to be pull the line off at the back end of the injection manifold and flush the new fuel that far), there has been no improvement in the symptoms except that the pump is substantially quieter and the bike will at least idle as long as the choke does not go beyond about 35% (cannot go to mid-stop) and the throttle is not touched whatsoever.
I can hear what sounds like one of the injectors, possibly two, but with the bike running I am unable to isolate with much confidence. After flushing the line tomorrow I'm going to try to remove the injectors and turn them on the injection manifold away from the bike so that I can see the individual spray patterns. The easiest answer is that one or more will have a terrible pattern or none at all. Any further suggestions or diagnostic tips are appreciated.
I also enjoy non-fiction and vanilla soft-serve ice cream. :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on September 18, 2016, 09:53:46 PM
Is my blood type and favorite wine also required?Sunsets? What about sunsets and walks along the surf?
I also enjoy non-fiction and vanilla soft-serve ice cream.
Post by: Martin on September 18, 2016, 10:03:50 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 19, 2016, 07:24:26 AM
I forgot to mention the drain, because you're right it should have drained. The hinge is on the rider's side (toward the rear) and while doing the fuel tank cleaning, both when the tank was benched and when it was reattached, I blew out the drain with compressed air. I didn't find any noticeable blockage but I'm sure a tiny spiderweb could be sufficient and wouldn't make the spitball noise I was listening for. It's only occurring to me now that I probably should have started a new thread with the fuel issue instead of jacking the tail of an older, only semi-related thread. Will do so now with a copy of the "symptoms/solutions" post from last night.
Post by: F14CRAZY on September 19, 2016, 07:56:26 AM
You shouldn't get water into the tank if you have the cap orientated the right way. The hinge goes to the back and there is a drain built into the cap to stop water entering if you open it while it is on the side stand. Could also be a blocked drain if the cap is on right.
Regards Martin.
May want to replace the gasket that's in between the filler door assembly and the tank (dealer can order it). Water may be able to get into the tank that way
Post by: caseyvr6 on September 19, 2016, 09:34:06 AM
Post by: GT350Mike on September 25, 2016, 09:11:55 PM
Post by: TX brick on September 26, 2016, 06:55:18 AM
I think my fuel pump has died on my 92 K100 so before order a pump, I wanted to confirm which pump didn't fit your K75. Was the pump from highflow.com larger than 52mm? What was the diameter of the 439B? Also, did you replace the fuel pump vibration damper?
I'm not sure if your bike has the older large or newer small pump, but I would remove pump and power it directly to test it. There are two common connections where the pump can lose power.
Post by: GT350Mike on September 26, 2016, 07:36:21 AM
Post by: stokester on October 18, 2016, 08:37:21 PM
Any concerns with that hose immersed in ethanol-laced fuel?
Am I the only one who would be concerned with a radiator hose immersed in fuel? I've seen how non-fuel rubber reacts to petroleum products.
Post by: enb54 on May 23, 2021, 09:55:59 PM
Also, I am wondering about the radiator hose immersed in fuel...
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2021, 12:17:02 AM
Also, I am wondering about the radiator hose immersed in fuel...Me, too.
Post by: Martin on May 24, 2021, 04:26:27 AM
try a wreckers.
Regards Martin.
Post by: enb54 on May 24, 2021, 10:40:17 AM
Post by: enb54 on June 29, 2021, 12:39:35 PM
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: beemuker on June 29, 2021, 01:44:28 PM
"Submersible Fuel Line Hose
Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose is capable of handling gasoline, alcohol-extended gasoline, ethanols, biodiesel or diesel fuel in fully-immersed, mobile and stationary applications. It contains a special compound, Fluoroelastomer, which resists gas permeation and aging. It is also reinforced with Aramid Fiber that is pound-for-pound stronger than steel. This advanced construction allows Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose to exceed the required SAE 30R10 rating."
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5XX56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: Laitch on June 29, 2021, 02:01:12 PM
I used the same kit, but got my supposedly submersible hose from my local auto store.Promotional copy you've provided indicates it exceeds SAE30R10 specifications. Either believe it or not. SAE30R10 is what's used in that application.
If you can't trust your locals or China, you can you trust? 177381 Take the swollen hose back to the locals and flog them with it.
Post by: enb54 on July 03, 2021, 05:25:32 PM
Post by: beemuker on July 03, 2021, 06:54:42 PM
Post by: enb54 on July 03, 2021, 07:05:20 PM
July 04 Edit:
20210704_134901[1].jpg (49.91 kB . 768x576 - viewed 412 times)Modification to position of fuel line clamp...