MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: wmax351 on March 23, 2012, 01:24:53 AM
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Has anyone made these?
http://ibmwr.org/ktech/k100-8v-adjust-tool.pdf
(http://ibmwr.org/ktech/k100-8v-adjust-tool.pdf)
I'm thinking of making a set.
Also, would people be interested in setting up a Motobrick.com "shim collective" where we mail them around, use the ones we need, and then replace them with the ones that were out of spec. Could also add in the tools. Some ducati boards do that, but their bikes need shims far more often.
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I was going to try that, but got turned onto this guy, "Kenneth Lively" <polepenhollow@yahoo.com> For $28 he'll send you excellent valve adjusting tools. I decided I had enough projects, sprung for the tools and was very happy happy happy. Here is the details.............
Yes, "Valve Adjusting Tools" and “Clutch Pilots” are available for the BMW 2 valve "K" engine.
“Valve Adjusting Tools” (both K75 & K100) are 2 pieces made from 3/16” Laser cut steel. Working contours are identical to factory tools. "Valve Adjusting Tools" are new, from steel, w/ instructions.
"Valve Adjusting Tools" for BMW 2 valve "K" engines are $28 S/H included.
Clutch pilots for BMW K's (both K75 & K100) are available also. New, from steel.
Clutch Pilots for BMW K's , are $18.50 S/H included.
Cashiers Check, Money Order or Personal Check are welcome.
“Pay Pal” accepted also. Please apply “Pay Pal” to:
polepenhollow@yahoo.com
And I like the shim idea. Maybe just a thread with what we got and what we need.
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i took an old stamped steel box end wrench and ground it down til it was close to the template. then trial and error with a file til it worked. you have to get the outside flat right. i'm happy with it. i just use the remover, not the holder.
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Wondering about this:
http://www.bmwmotorcycle.com/Motion-Pro-MOTION-PRO-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL---KAWASAKI-detail.htm?productId=8529888 (http://www.bmwmotorcycle.com/Motion-Pro-MOTION-PRO-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL---KAWASAKI-detail.htm?productId=8529888)
Seems like it would work.
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I miss Moto-Marin. Was nice having a local dealer with a great parts dept.
Emailed BMW San Francisco, and they don't keep the shims in stock. WTF? :dunno
Hello Max,
We don’t typically stock shims for the bikes on hand. I can order in the shims for you, but I should tell you ahead of time there are around 20 sizes for your bike and you will need 6 of each size to have all the shims potentially necessary to do the valves completely. The cost on each shim is $6.07 + tax. If you want to go ahead and place the order I can get them here for you within a week. Unfortunately the Motion Pro Valve Shim Tool only are only made for Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha. There are BMW shim tools available for most of the bikes. If you are interested in one of these please call 415-503-9950 and talk to Rich in Service. He will be able to look up any tool you might need. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Thank you
On the other hand, it appears that first gen (1989-95) Ford Taurus SHO shims are an exact match, and have a .025 mm increment, for us OCD brickheads.
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Emailed BMW San Francisco, and they don't keep the shims in stock. WTF?
Our local dealer, now out of business, would tell me "no we don't carry blank, but I can order one." I finally told them I can order one myself and have it delivered to the house and I won't have to drive back in here.
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As mentioned on another forum, any Nipponese type of 29mm-wide shim will function in place of BMW shims. The shims for Kawasaki klr650, Z900, Z1000 and Z1300 or Yamaha 1100 of about late 70s to early 80s will do. The Kawasaki ones are a better shim to use.
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As mentioned on another forum, any Nipponese type of 29mm-wide shim will function in place of BMW shims. The shims for Kawasaki klr650, Z900, Z1000 and Z1300 or Yamaha 1100 of about late 70s to early 80s will do. The Kawasaki ones are a better shim to use.
as will ford mustang sho shims.
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I just did the valves on my LT without the tool.
Just like my Yamaha triple, I simply removed the cam bearing caps and let the cam lift away from the head, replaced the shims and replaced the caps and re-torqued the fasteners.
Easier to do than to talk about.
Make sure you use a proper torque wrench as one that is not clicking on the fairly low torque value of the cam bearing cap nuts will strip the studs instantly (DAMHIK).
It's an option if you want to get it done and don't have the tools available.
TG
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After doing mine recently, even though I did use the aftermarket tool, I think you could probably do it with a regular screwdriver used to hold the edge of the "bucket" down to swap shims.