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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: conybeare on March 08, 2012, 10:29:21 PM
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I am getting ready to rebuild the water/oil pump. The slip-ring seal that I ordered looks different than what I expected. Based on the IBMWR article (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/water-oil-pump-rebuild2.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/water-oil-pump-rebuild2.shtml)), I was expecting the seal to have the "blue goo" or blue stripe on the outside and inside. Instead it only has it on the outside. Here it is:
(http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/NotesParts/11411741870_1_B.jpg?v=3183235)
Part no. 11411741870
Without that sealant or ring on the inside, how does the seal keep water from traveling along the shaft to the oil side (and through the backside of the oil seal)? Has anyone installed one of these? This was the only seal the the Max BMW parts fiche would give me for the K75S, so I'm thinking maybe it's just a newer style. I'm just confused about how it works and wanted to see if I'm missing something...
Thanks a bunch.
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A bit confusing this issue......
The seal used at the ibmwr page has a higher part # than yours, so I assume it`s newer.
With a part# search at max bmw, no K75 models are shown.
The service bulletin (pdf file at same page) says all 75, 100, 1100 models.
It also was a change at pump housing from 01/90, don`t know if that makes any difference.
(Don`t think so, since K100 models also after that date is shown).
Max BMW part# search. (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsByPartNumber.aspx?parts=11%2051%201%20704%20084)
Inge K.
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I have used that seal twice and no problem so far and that was 3 months ago
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Yeah I think they changed the part again because I did my seal a few months back and got the same part in the picture. Seems to be working well so far for me. The guide is pretty handy.
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OK, thanks for the input everyone. Still not sure who it's supposed to seal, but sounds it like will work :bmwsmile
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What do you guys use to seal the pump to the engine and the water cover to the pump housing? I've done it twice and the damn thing is still leaking radiator fluid and oil from where I used a liquid gasket product. Do you let it setup over night? Its driving me nuts that my K100 is dripping fluids.
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If you read the instructions on the tube for some of those products many of them recommend only tightening it loosely at first, letting it sit for 30 minutes to set a bit and then tightening the bolts.
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So I'm Guessing this is the fix for Oil and Coolant leaking out of the weep hole in bottom of the motor?
:confused:Checking the posted link above it states that the updated Seal must be used in conjuction with the Updated spacer and impeller. Is this correct?
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Yeah, enquiring minds want to know. I have the problem of a drippy water pump and would like to know the cheapest way 0ut?
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ConyB, in responce to your initial question about how the shaft seals.
The part in your picture is only 1/2 of the assembly. A typical shaft seal is 2 pieces. The part you are showing is the fixed half. The part you aren't showing is the rotating half.
It's the rotating half that seals the shaft and also seals against the face(part facing down in your picture) thus keeping the water in.
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Another question. Do you need to remove the pump our can the seals be replaced by removing the cover and doing the repair on the Bike?
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So I'm Guessing this is the fix for Oil and Coolant leaking out of the weep hole in bottom of the motor?
:confused:Checking the posted link above it states that the updated Seal must be used in conjuction with the Updated spacer and impeller. Is this correct?
As far as BMW is concerned yes but I have been taking 3mm from the inside face on the boss of the cast impeller and it all fits together just fine without the pressed steel impeller. Getting rid of rust from the cast impeller I just soak it for a few days in a 10% solution of molassis.
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Getting rid of rust from the cast impeller I just soak it for a few days in a 10% solution of molassis.
Gotta love this list!
Tom
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ConyB, in responce to your initial question about how the shaft seals.
The part in your picture is only 1/2 of the assembly. A typical shaft seal is 2 pieces. The part you are showing is the fixed half. The part you aren't showing is the rotating half.
It's the rotating half that seals the shaft and also seals against the face(part facing down in your picture) thus keeping the water in.
I believe that picture depicts the entire seal. The rotating half is the inner portion. If you were to push the inner portion from behind the seal (as pictured) you could see it better. It also rotates. The outer piece has the blue stripe.
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Another question. Do you need to remove the pump our can the seals be replaced by removing the cover and doing the repair on the Bike?
Pump must be removed. The shaft must be removed to replace the seals, and then to reinstall the shaft you have to hold it from the rear with a hex wrench as you draw the shaft back through the seals, like so (starts at 3:45): K1100LT water oil pump seal replacement PART 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8JUY8C2c08#ws)
Not a big deal though, removing the pump is only about 4% more work compared to the rest of the project.
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Thank you VERY MUCH. I will tackle this job on the week end. If my local BMW Dealer has the parts( doubtful)
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Not sure if you are getting more than just the seals, but most people recommend getting the shaft which is the $$$ part...
This is the list that I used with the shaft and updated rotor.
For reference if anyone was thinking about doing it:
12311460853 Screw - M8x22 $1.39
11411461173 Rotor $14.26
11511464902 Spacer Bushing - $7.65
11411460329 Shaft Seal - $6.60
11411741870 Slip-Ring Seal - $21.95
11111460392 O-Ring - $1.34
11411460328 O-Ring - $0.91
11411461183 Shaft - $121.06
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You don't necessarily need a shaft. The earlier seals were running directly on the shaft (like the oil seal still does). However the sealing part is part of the new type mechanical seal. It has the larger cup (with the blue sealant) which seals into the house and the other end of the seal seals on the shaft (look at the picture in the earlier post - you can see the internal sealing ring in there). These are 'stationary seals' i.e, the don't move on the shaft so an affected shaft can be repaired by using a filler in way of pitting if the location where the seal sits on the shaft is affected, but please appreciate that it is not the locations where the earlier type water seals were running on the shaft and therefore where the wear would show.
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What are the chances of wasting a slip-ring seal on a pump rebuild. A mechanic at my dealer said that unless I had done this before, I would probably end up trashing two to three slip-ring seals.
I watched the video posted a few posts before and it certainly does not appear too complicated.
Are they tooting their own horn or is this a statistically expensive job for the novice?
I was even thinking of buying the "drift" or BMW press-in bushing. I can always remove the pump assembly and drop it off at the dealer, but they won't warranty anything since they are not reinstalling entirely.
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The earlier seals were running directly on the shaft (like the oil seal still does).
That was interesting information, I thought it was used mechanical seal on all models
from the very start of production.
The change must have been quite early, you know what year this was changed?
Just curious.
Inge K.
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What are the chances of wasting a slip-ring seal on a pump rebuild. A mechanic at my dealer said that unless I had done this before, I would probably end up trashing two to three slip-ring seals.
I watched the video posted a few posts before and it certainly does not appear too complicated.
Are they tooting their own horn or is this a statistically expensive job for the novice?
I was even thinking of buying the "drift" or BMW press-in bushing. I can always remove the pump assembly and drop it off at the dealer, but they won't warranty anything since they are not reinstalling entirely.
I don't think you will have any issues. I was pretty nervous about busting the ceramic seal, but using the method in the video to tighten it worked like a charm.
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What do you guys use to seal the pump to the engine and the water cover to the pump housing? I've done it twice and the damn thing is still leaking radiator fluid and oil from where I used a liquid gasket product. Do you let it setup over night? Its driving me nuts that my K100 is dripping fluids.
Am interested to hear how/if you get it to seal up; please post your technique & what goo you used for the seal thx!
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What are the chances of wasting a slip-ring seal on a pump rebuild. A mechanic at my dealer said that unless I had done this before, I would probably end up trashing two to three slip-ring seals.
I watched the video posted a few posts before and it certainly does not appear too complicated.
Are they tooting their own horn or is this a statistically expensive job for the novice?
I was even thinking of buying the "drift" or BMW press-in bushing. I can always remove the pump assembly and drop it off at the dealer, but they won't warranty anything since they are not reinstalling entirely.
Its not bad at all. Just follow the directions, and don't force anything. Be careful of the direction on the oil seal. The instructions are kinda ambiguous (I had it reversed the first time I rebuilt it.). The Ceramic seal was easy, just use the bolt and a washer/spacer.
What do you guys use to seal the pump to the engine and the water cover to the pump housing? I've done it twice and the damn thing is still leaking radiator fluid and oil from where I used a liquid gasket product. Do you let it setup over night? Its driving me nuts that my K100 is dripping fluids.
Am interested to hear how/if you get it to seal up; please post your technique & what goo you used for the seal thx!
http://permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm (http://permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm)
http://permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/51813.pdf (http://permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/51813.pdf)
I used permatex anaerobic flange sealant and gasket maker. It is a hardening gasket maker, that is great on well machined surfaces. Clean the surfaces really well, apply a thin coat to both parts, and tighten down. Wipe off excess. It only hardens when compressed or held away from air, and is oil soluble.
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What is ceramic seal? Is that the same as "slip-ring" seal?
I ask as I thought there was silicone in there.
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What is ceramic seal? Is that the same as "slip-ring" seal?
I ask as I thought there was silicone in there.
That is correct.
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Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.
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Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.
Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:
http://freeproxyserver.net/ (http://freeproxyserver.net/)
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Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.
I have it downloaded into an mp4 file (you could windows media or quicktime to play) ... If you PM me an email address I'll send you a link you can download the vid. Part2 oil pump replacement.
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I agree with wmax - assuming you have intermediate or so mechanical abilities, it shouldn't be too difficult. There is nothing particularly challenging about this job as long as do your research. Drawing the shaft through the seal straightforward. In fact, the new seals don't even have "blue goo" or anything on the inside, so there is really nothing to mess up. I think the metal inner part of the seal just fits tightly over the shaft, thus creating a water seal. Fitting the pump and cover back on w/o leaks could be tricky if you don't have much experience using gasket maker. Tapping in the oil seal might also be tricky if you don't have experience tapping in seals. Otherwise, it's all pretty basic.
As for the gasket maker, I use the older stuff - Permatex Ultra Black. Definitely read the instructions. You are supposed to apply, tighten just a bit, then wait a while, and then tighten down again. For this job that means you have to install the pump first, and wait until the next day to tighten it down more before you install the pump cover (b/c the pump cover covers some of the pump mounting bolts). Supposedly with Permatex's new "The Right Stuff" you do not have to wait.
IBMWR has an excellent write-up on this job. The YouTube video i linked to also has a "Part 1" sister video.
Good luck!
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Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.
Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:
http://freeproxyserver.net/ (http://freeproxyserver.net/)
I'm not going to mess about with a poxy server just to watch a video, although it does look useful.
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I agree with wmax - assuming you have intermediate or so mechanical abilities, it shouldn't be too difficult. There is nothing particularly challenging about this job as long as do your research. Drawing the shaft through the seal straightforward. In fact, the new seals don't even have "blue goo" or anything on the inside, so there is really nothing to mess up. I think the metal inner part of the seal just fits tightly over the shaft, thus creating a water seal. Fitting the pump and cover back on w/o leaks could be tricky if you don't have much experience using gasket maker. Tapping in the oil seal might also be tricky if you don't have experience tapping in seals. Otherwise, it's all pretty basic.
As for the gasket maker, I use the older stuff - Permatex Ultra Black. Definitely read the instructions. You are supposed to apply, tighten just a bit, then wait a while, and then tighten down again. For this job that means you have to install the pump first, and wait until the next day to tighten it down more before you install the pump cover (b/c the pump cover covers some of the pump mounting bolts). Supposedly with Permatex's new "The Right Stuff" you do not have to wait.
IBMWR has an excellent write-up on this job. The YouTube video i linked to also has a "Part 1" sister video.
Good luck!
Advantage of the anaerobic flange sealant: you can torque it down, then let it cure.
Bummer the video is blocked from Japan on copyright grounds.
Not sure if it will work but you might want to try using a proxy server:
http://freeproxyserver.net/ (http://freeproxyserver.net/)
I'm not going to mess about with a poxy server just to watch a video, although it does look useful.
I will post it in a half hour, when it finishes uploading.
Here is the file.
https://rapidshare.com/files/1276244641/K1100LT_water_oil_pump_seal_replacement_PART_2.mp4 (https://rapidshare.com/files/1276244641/K1100LT_water_oil_pump_seal_replacement_PART_2.mp4)
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I just received my parts from Max BMW (I have to admit, they are very proficient and proactive to helping those novices like me).
Since BMW parts are much much more expensive in Canada, I ordered some crush washers and a few extra seals just in case. I also ordered a spare Slip-ring seal and purchased the BMW Press-in bushing tool; Slip-ring seals are almost $40 in Canada. I will tackling this job next weekend, time is at a premium right now.
There appears to be a different type and amount of "blue colour" on the Slip-ring seal I received. Here's what I have on standby for this job:
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h448/ghyber/DSCN9723.jpg)
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h448/ghyber/DSCN9726.jpg)
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h448/ghyber/DSCN9724.jpg)
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I just received my parts from Max BMW (I have to admit, they are very proficient and proactive to helping those novices like me).
Since BMW parts are much much more expensive in Canada, I ordered some crush washers and a few extra seals just in case. I also ordered a spare Slip-ring seal and purchased the BMW Press-in bushing tool; Slip-ring seals are almost $40 in Canada. I will tackling this job next weekend, time is at a premium right now.
There appears to be a different type and amount of "blue colour" on the Slip-ring seal I received. Here's what I have on standby for this job:
Do you mind if I asked what the total package ran you? What parts did you order for the job? I know it's on my horizon, so I am just curious. Thanks!
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It would be a pleasure to assist another fellow rider, that's why I posted the picture. The entire order was $111.47 + shipping/handling. I ordered two Slip-ring seals and the tool. I don't even know if I need the rotor and screw, but I don't care at this point in time; it's only $14.26. The big ticket items were the rotor, spacer bushing, shaft seal, slip-ring seal and press-in bushing.
Talk to Rusty Gill at MAX BMW, he was very helpful and professional. He sure knows his stuff.
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It would be a pleasure to assist another fellow rider, that's why I posted the picture. The entire order was $111.47 + shipping/handling. I ordered two Slip-ring seals and the tool. I don't even know if I need the rotor and screw, but I don't care at this point in time; it's only $14.26. The big ticket items were the rotor, spacer bushing, shaft seal, slip-ring seal and press-in bushing.
Talk to Rusty Gill at MAX BMW, he was very helpful and professional. He sure knows his stuff.
Cheers, thanks!
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I am rebuilding my water/oil pump but need to confirm the direction of the oil seal installation.
The oil seal has an open side (one can see the tiny wire spring) and a closed/beveled side. The dude in the video seems to indicate that the open side of the seal is towards or facing the oil side of the water/oil pump. Is this correct?
I will post some pictures of my install tomorrow.
I had a hard time removing the old ceramic and oil seal. I have a 93 K75S and suspect it had never been done since production in 1993. I was worried about gouging the interior surfaces while banging away at those old seals with a screwdriver and hammer. I succeeded but had to resort to heat and a lot of patience.
I did get to see how an oil or coolant leak will migrate into the small dead space and enter a tiny passage vented in front of the crankcase just behind the water/oil pump.
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I am rebuilding my water/oil pump but need to confirm the direction of the oil seal installation.
The oil seal has an open side (one can see the tiny wire spring) and a closed/beveled side. The dude in the video seems to indicate that the open side of the seal is towards or facing the oil side of the water/oil pump. Is this correct?
I will post some pictures of my install tomorrow.
I had a hard time removing the old ceramic and oil seal. I have a 93 K75S and suspect it had never been done since production in 1993. I was worried about gouging the interior surfaces while banging away at those old seals with a screwdriver and hammer. I succeeded but had to resort to heat and a lot of patience.
I did get to see how an oil or coolant leak will migrate into the small dead space and enter a tiny passage vented in front of the crankcase just behind the water/oil pump.
Yes this is correct
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Can anyone tell me the purpose of this plug on water/oil pump?
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h448/ghyber/DSCN9779-1.jpg)
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To keep the coolant in? :dunno
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It is the oil pressure relief valve behind it.
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OK, I am a dope! I pinched my oil pressure wire during the reinstallation and would like to replace that single wire harness. Unfortunately, that part number, 61121459120 is no longer available but has been replaced with part number, 61 12 7 665 811 which requires changing the oil pressure switch. I haven't had any luck finding a dealership that still has on old one in stock.
However, Motobins has a wiring harness, Part No.79879, made for the temperature sender and at least one of the harness connector ends looks exactly like it will connect to the oil pressure switch. I wonder if I can fit that wire in lieu.
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Can one assume that after a water/oil pump rebuild changing the oil + water seals, that it may take some engine running time for the seals to settle into place and provide a perfect seal? I ask as I have been getting to coolant drips through the front weeping hole.
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I don't think that you should be getting any fluids coming out after doing the install. It should be water tight from the get-go in my experience. Are you sure that it isn't the seal of the water pump cover? The water pump seals are pretty fragile hope it went on ok.
I had mine leak on me when I didn't get a perfect seal that is until i used the anaerobic gasket sealer I love that stuff!
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Can one assume that after a water/oil pump rebuild changing the oil + water seals, that it may take some engine running time for the seals to settle into place and provide a perfect seal? I ask as I have been getting to coolant drips through the front weeping hole.
should not be leaking...
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I've put approximately 300 km on the bike since the rebuild and both seals seems to have settled into place.
On initial startup I noticed some coolant coming through the weeping hole general area. It may have been coolant that was sitting on the engine after a minor coolant spill when refilling the radiator.
I also got some oily residue coming out of the weeping hole which I attribute to the grease I used to lubricate and insert the oil seal and the shaft; the pump eventually warmed up causing the grease to melt.
I am confident enough that I have reinstalled my belly pan. :k75s
I found a replacement oil pressure lead from our very own Frankenduck... :2thumbup:
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I have read these posts for days! I still can not understand why they say that the oil pump seal goes in what customarily would be judged as UP SIDE DOWN. Commonly all oil seals with a garter spring on the "open" side must have that side placed with that spring and it's lip facing the oil that it seals from leaking. Hence the oil pressure from the pump forces the seal tightly around the shaft. The small hump or lip on the flat closed in side of the seal should be intended to protect the seal from foreign matter, dirt & grit.... However the taper in the pump housing appears to match this small lip on the outside of the seal. Can someone please verify in detail & without doubt which way in the oil pump seal is installed & why? Thanks......ibjman@cox.net
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You`re correct about the spring at the oil seal should face the oil, and the closed end pointing away.
This is also how it`s described earlier in this thread.
Inge K.
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I have read these posts for days! I still can not understand why they say that the oil pump seal goes in what customarily would be judged as UP SIDE DOWN. Commonly all oil seals with a garter spring on the "open" side must have that side placed with that spring and it's lip facing the oil that it seals from leaking. Hence the oil pressure from the pump forces the seal tightly around the shaft. The small hump or lip on the flat closed in side of the seal should be intended to protect the seal from foreign matter, dirt & grit.... However the taper in the pump housing appears to match this small lip on the outside of the seal. Can someone please verify in detail & without doubt which way in the oil pump seal is installed & why? Thanks......ibjman@cox.net
lbjman,
Please refer to the posts #35 and #36 above as I reflected on your exact same point about the oil seal installation direction. Hence, I do not really understand your concern or post. In post #36, what you are stating above was undisputedly CLEARLY confirmed: the open side of the oil seal with the garter spring faces the oil.
I installed the oil seal using a 17 mm or 19 mm socket as a drift or press. If the seal is facing the wrong side, you will quickly find yourself hammering away on a socket with very little flat surface to transmit the force from your drift or socket to drive the seal into its recess.
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I'm gonna ressurect this thread for a couple months, I'm gonna throw a kit thru my water pump at some point., (I actually bought a used pump on ebay). So I hope this is a bolt off/bolt on fix for me. The used pump has 38 k on i;t so I have my doubts on whether it will have no issues when bolted up. I'm pretty adept when it comes to permatex, and haven't had a leak yet.......but we will see.
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I've tried twice to rebuild my water pump without success. Still dripping from the drain hole.
I've followed the Youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8JUY8C2c08
and the written instructions.
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/water-oil-pump-rebuild2.shtml
The pump feels tight after fitting the new seal. At first it's too tight to turn the water impeller by hand. If I use a hammer and lightly tap the impeller bolt a few times, it eases a bit and can be turned by hand. But it still feels a bit tighter than it should be.
Whether it's tight or not, it's dripping so clearly not done right. I've tried twice, with another new seal the second time around.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
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Following on from my previous post.
The shaft is not pitted. It looks like new.
It's a very low miles bike. Just under 10,000 on the clock.
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Did you also get the updated spacer bushing?
I replaced the original seal on my '93 K75S and did not replace the original spacer bushing which was 14mm with the updated one at 10mm and it leaked worse than the original drips.
Nick
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Yes, I bought the kit from Motobins including new water pump seal, new oil seal, O-rings, smaller spacer bush and water impeller. The shaft is in very good condition - no pitting.
I fitted the water pump seal carefully and pulled it into place using first washers and then the new smaller spacer. The pump felt very tight when rebuilt. Almost too tight to turn by hand. I tapped the impeller bolt lightly which seemed to ease the mechanism but the pump still felt a bit tight. I fitted the pump back onto the bike using RTV silicone sealant but it drips through the drain hole.
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I've resolved it now. Fitted a third seal and got it right this time. It's easy when you know how.
Solution : Need to carefully drift the water pump seal into the housing using a large socket and seat it all the way in before pulling the shaft through using washers and the impeller bush. I had mistakenly though pulling the seal onto the shaft was part of the seating process.
Thanks for suggestions and info.
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Did you also get the updated spacer bushing?
I replaced the original seal on my '93 K75S and did not replace the original spacer bushing which was 14mm with the updated one at 10mm and it leaked worse than the original drips.
Nick
Hello Gents, old thread I know but i'm just about to attempt this procedure myself and after much reading spotted this spacer bushing difference issue of 10mm/14mm. Can anyone expand on this for me..?? I am fitting a new rotor shaft along with all the recently ordered replacement kit on an engine which I believe to be circa '91 but spotted a stamp on the upper side of the casings with a circled 89. Could that mean the casting was manufactured in '89 but the bike was built in '91...?? Is there a reference facility via BMW for engine numbers that can identify manufacture dates accurately..??
I am also a little concerned about the look of the seal that is in the pump right now after removal. It has the appearance of sealant around the exterior, very strange as this slipring seal is a dry fitment. I will post a close-up picture later today. One bizarre thing is, I'm rightly nervous about getting this job done correctly because of my upcoming trip, I'm surrounded by very competent bike mechanics where I am building the bike but am 'flabbergasted' by how many of them have turned down the challenge of performing the task, even a BMW technician with 30yrs experience graphite shouldered the job back to me, un-fkn-believable but hey-ho here we go....!!!!!!
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One bizarre thing is . . . I'm surrounded by very competent bike mechanics where I am building the bike but am 'flabbergasted' by how many of them have turned down the challenge of performing the task, even a BMW technician with 30yrs experience graphite shouldered the job back to me, un-fkn-believable but hey-ho here we go....!!!!!!
That's not bizarre to most of us, MEZ. That's why we're hanging out here. Please proceed with posting photos.
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Hello Gents, old thread I know but i'm just about to attempt this procedure myself and after much reading spotted this spacer bushing difference issue of 10mm/14mm.
First of all, I did not find this job exceptionally difficult but it does require some patience and you may find some pitting on the shaft which may require replacement. After the second attempt I discovered the difference in spacer bushing size which was not highlighted in any of the procedures I reviewed. The attached .pdf is one I put together to add to the docs on IBMWR site but after submitting it twice, it has never been added. :dunno
I remember finding a video of the procedure that brings it up but don't remember where it is located. Someone here may know, I believe it was done in the UK.
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It may not have been a video but this excellent .pdf of the procedure which mentions on page 11 that the old spacer may not be used.
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I did the pump seal on my 94' k75 in the spring. Not a difficult job at all. Be careful when pressing the inner part of the seal onto the shaft. Go slow and keep checking as you go. I had to use a some flat washers I vaguely remember. Don't forget to torque the impeller to the specs. Have fun and go slow. :bmwsmile
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Thanks for input gents.
I'm gonna take it steady don't worry. Anyone have an image of the OE impeller fitment because I believe the impeller I removed might be the modification item BMW supply and if you look at the image attached here you can see the wavy edge of gasket goo or silicon used to install the slipring seal which is a dry fitment. Also spot the corrosion of the housing where both seals have to go, I'm getting the pump casing vapour blasted over the weekend and will ask about doing this surface in prep to accept the new seals, should be ok I think and none intrusive to the metallic surface just the scud shown here...!!! [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
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Sorry, don't have image, but the new re designed seal uses a different bushing underneath it. The new seal kit should come with the bushing.
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Ok, after much fretting dithering utubing and googling I decided to just crack on and do it. The vapour blasting was worth the effort in the prep and the slow methodical approach in the install. I could do it a second time piece of cake in a fraction of the time but as with anything obviously so..!!!
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How easy the propeller and shaft should rotate after replacing the seals? I replaced both seals and axle. Did it like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8JUY8C2c08
I tried to be carefull when assembling the new seals. Everything seems to be ok, but rotating the propeller is tight. I hardly can turn the propeller by hand, without any tools. Have I damaged the cooland seald, even if it seems to be ok.
Old axle:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200102/fce63e53c3b2d5c8d5904b787c92e526.jpg)
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It should not be difficult to turn by hand. Did you also replace the cast impeller with a stamped steel impeller?
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Mine allready had a steel impeller. I think I will replace the coolant seal once again, to be on the safe side. It does not take so much neither time or money now, when the pump is still unassembled.
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I ordered a new coolant side seal. I must have damaged the seal when I banged it in. Will give a new try next weekend.