Post by: DRxBMW on February 28, 2012, 07:39:59 AM
1987 K 100 RT occupying space in my garage currently, it does run a bit on the rough side,stumbles some at idle. Fresh petrol and a fuel filter R&R on the slate for this morning.
IMHO, the bike simply needs to be ridden more. Plan is to go wring the piss out of her this afternoon, see what happens next.
dunno, I'm NOT a big additive fan per say but for bricks that sit, probably a good idea.
The only additive I use on my whip is Startron to defeat alcohol poisoning.
Rumor mill that the Techtron concentrate is the ONLY FI cleaner that actually works. (Tom Cutter)
For the record, I've NEVER used Seafoam period. Does it really do anything ?
thanks _______________________.
Post by: johnny on February 28, 2012, 07:44:08 AM
j o
Post by: 552255 on February 28, 2012, 10:26:04 AM
Post by: frankenduck on February 28, 2012, 10:53:34 AM
Techron for fuel injected engines. Seafoam for carb'd.
Post by: Lawrence on February 28, 2012, 11:46:34 AM
Post by: DRxBMW on February 28, 2012, 08:18:35 PM
My thoughts are:New NAPA fuel filter,$18.00 worth of premium petrol and 120 miles later, this K 100 is finally running better. GREAT weather, the RT offers more protection than my Parrabellum Scout wind screen on the K 75.
Techron for fuel injected engines. Seafoam for carb'd.
Upon my return, I synched the TB's, idle has smoothed out.
R&R with Bosch "dual electrode" spark plugs (XR7LDC) to replace the older (X5DC) single electrode model currently in the bike this time around.
Picked up a bottle of Techtron, can't hurt to treat the fuel system.
Called the owner and informed him his bike is ready,bring your checkbook.
Convinced most of the roughness was old gasoline and lack of motor activity,read ride hard.
Post by: orforester on February 28, 2012, 10:05:04 PM
Post by: branandfox on April 24, 2014, 02:44:03 AM
Post by: Jumpin Jimmy B on April 25, 2014, 12:18:00 PM
Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in crankcase oil
Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase two separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre-service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner. It can also be used as an after-service oil additive. In either application, Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re-liquefy old oil residue. Each method is described below:
■As a pre-service cleaner for old oil residue, (and to address valve train noise and timing chain hydraulic tensioner noise), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for each quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a minimum of 30 minutes (a maximum of 100 miles), and then do your oil change service. This begins the process of safely/slowly re-liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered away. Your old oil will quickly become much dirtier, so an oil change service will be necessary soon after this pre-service treatment. This is also a great idea for turbocharged and supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, leaving those residues that need cleaning.
■As an after-service additive for fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or used oil that is NOT yet ready to be changed (based on mileage since last service). Add the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment to the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (such as every time you gas up, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.
Remember, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is safe to use with all synthetic oils. Purely synthetic oils, and blends of synthetic and petroleum-based oils, were engineered to be 100% compatible with petroleum-based oils of all brands, and vice versa. Without this compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants. Since Sea Foam Motor Treatment only contains petroleum-based oils, it is entirely compatible with synthetic oils.
Remember, when using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in your crankcase:
■Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for oil change service!
■Change your oil when it gets dirty!
Post by: drut on April 25, 2014, 12:58:34 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZQFoDX8egE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZQFoDX8egE)
Post by: branandfox on April 27, 2014, 03:42:29 PM
Post by: Jumpin Jimmy B on May 18, 2014, 08:53:43 AM
Works great. Add the Sea Foam, go for a nice long ride. 100 miles is this goal. Good mix of city & highway.
Go home & park the bike. Next day short ride 20 miles to warm it all up. Really clears the old gunk out
GENTLY!!! It needs to dissolve NOT fall or break off in chunks.
Now change the oil & filter.
Run the new oil & filter for 1,000 and change it out and proceed to your normal schedule.
Unless the bike has been sitting a long long time this isn't really needed.
The K1100RS I bought got only 2,000 miles in 8 years. The bike ran fine, would not pull strong after 5,000 RPM.
I did a bus & ride. So, stopped for fresh gas, added Sea Foam to gas, got within 100 or so miles of home and added a good splosh to the crank case.
Within an hour and a half of adding to the gas bike pulled clean and strong. Might have been just old gas too. Got home and let it sit, rode the next day to work, then the long way home and changed oil. Bike runs good and for the motor has been problem free for over 40,000 miles.
Good luck.
Post by: K75RT Keith on May 18, 2014, 09:03:02 AM
Post by: branandfox on May 19, 2014, 08:12:29 AM
Post by: kryder on June 15, 2015, 06:28:13 PM
Post by: Brad-Man on June 17, 2015, 12:05:30 AM
Did the Seafoam treatment (per directions for cleaning the top end) and it was butter smooth afterwards.
Just sayin'...
I'm sure there are other chemicals/brands out there that require more $ and/or professional labor to provide the same results, and I'm sure there are ignorant and non-mechanically inclined people that will go with these products/take it to a shop.
I'm not one of ''em.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 17, 2015, 02:57:10 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 09, 2015, 03:37:22 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 09, 2015, 06:05:42 PM
Post by: TimTyler on August 09, 2015, 08:06:08 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8i9qftqKNY
Post by: Scott_ on August 09, 2015, 11:33:02 PM
Post by: bizzaro on August 10, 2015, 08:42:36 PM
Post by: richarddacat on August 10, 2015, 08:44:16 PM
Just watched this. The take-away is not good.
Thanks, always preferred this stuff but looks like it's another snake oil.
Makes me wonder if these fuel stabilizers actually work. I always try to run my lawn equipment empty but add something to the bikes.
Post by: TimTyler on August 10, 2015, 08:49:23 PM
The whole can of Seafoam gets burned in five minutes while the bottle of Techron added to the tank takes hours.
That's not really an excuse though.
Results might be different on motorcycles too since I bet out engines run hotter. Makes me want to get a borescope camera and check out my pistons.
Post by: orforester on August 10, 2015, 10:26:58 PM
As far as Sea Foam, I ride with a Carb bike guy and he has some troubles in the past, a can of sea foam clears it up? Could it just be a better tank of gas, maybe, but I know if you leave it in a Carb, it is clearly more shiny afterwords!
Seat of the pants, and it don't hurt!
Bob
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on August 10, 2015, 10:39:45 PM
Post by: petermarek on August 14, 2015, 06:07:04 PM
Why do I need a product like SeaFoam or Techron? Bike is only nearing 14k original miles - it sat under a carport for ~20 years, lots of cleaning, all new rubber, a new fuel pump and injectors (refurbished) and it started. :bmwsmile
Thanks,
Post by: MonkeyMcBean on August 14, 2015, 06:36:42 PM
Post by: johnny on August 14, 2015, 07:29:32 PM
the whole shebang can be had at truck stops for cheap... two and on the road...
j o
Post by: TimTyler on September 10, 2015, 06:38:20 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 10, 2015, 11:03:42 PM
Post by: Chaos on September 11, 2015, 12:21:42 AM
I may try the expanding foam to plug some leaks. Do you suppose it should go in the gas tank or the sump?
Post by: K75RT Keith on September 11, 2015, 10:36:22 AM
Post by: johnny on October 22, 2015, 03:26:09 PM
cheveron techeron 2 bottles for 8 dollars...
yeeehaaaa...
j o
Post by: SmilingRide on November 28, 2016, 07:33:24 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 28, 2016, 09:43:04 PM
Interested to hear your experience. Thx.I don't use either in my bike and so far, it runs acceptably.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 28, 2016, 10:09:14 PM
I did an engine flush with cheap oil and a bottle of SeaFoam, and the sprag has worked properly since without any further attention. I didn't think the power and roughness was bad enough to justify the effort to pull the injectors and clean them on the bench. Johnny was pretty high on this Techron stuff and Italian tuneups, so I decided to give it a try. One bottle through two tanks and the engine had gotten smoother with a marked reduction in handlebar vibration. A bottle per month through the summer and today the engine has better power and the vibrations are now down to where it's almost as smooth as my K75's. It starts instantly and has a smooth, steady idle whether cold or hot.
Post by: Laitch on November 28, 2016, 10:15:24 PM
It starts instantly and has a smooth, steady idle whether cold or hot.If Gryph says it works, it works. After that ringing endorsement, I'm now considering using it too, if he'd send me a couple of cases.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 29, 2016, 12:43:19 AM
Original poster asked about experience. I was just recounting how it worked in my K100. Techron gets the varnish out and is less work than pulling the injectors. If it sounds like I was pleased at how it works, well, I was.
I recently worked as a mechanic in a boatyard where boats were stored for up to 6 months of the year. A lot of them use ethanol blend gas, and I spent a lot of time pulling carburetors and cleaning the crap out of them. I tend to think that modern gas doesn't store as well as earlier blends, and anything that helps minimize the grief that old gas causes is worth using.
Post by: Laitch on November 29, 2016, 08:02:16 AM
Laitch, you're on your own, if you've been good maybe Santa will bring some for you.You don't need to ship me the actually product, Gryph. I'll accept O'Reilly gift cards, to make it easy for you. I'm not that considerate to everybody, although I'm striving to be.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 29, 2016, 09:01:19 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 29, 2016, 09:15:51 AM
Well, that attitude will certainly move you closer to the top of Santa's "nice" list.Goodness is its own reward but its affect on gasoline residue is not substantiated.
Post by: K1300S on November 29, 2016, 03:34:10 PM
techron on the other hand, works. i keep a case on hand and use it in all my bmw's. street cars, race cars and bike. it will not fix really old and abused injectors, but it will prevent them from getting that way in the first place.
I also use STA-BIL in any gas i won't be burning up in a month. appears to work as all my gas powered tools and vehicles start right up after winter (or summer in the case of the snowblower) naps.
Post by: Laitch on November 29, 2016, 05:38:35 PM
The other products in the photo seem for maintenance and making sure the ethanol doesn't junk up your bike in the first place. Interested to hear your experience.Here's an image of the Sta-bil product I've been using with excellent results for as long as I can remember—admittedly, that can be from two minutes to ±64 years. The main thing is to use the equipment, or replace the treated fuel yearly. My bike gets used daily for six months of the year. My experience with the product is the same as mlytle's.
Garden-variety Sta-bil.jpg (42.8 kB . 297x576 - viewed 490 times)