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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: rkildu on January 30, 2012, 05:56:14 PM
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I have a little problem with my KruzeKontrol. It will no longer control my speed. I push the set button and it doesn't. I have verified vacuum and I have gone through the trouble shooting checks listed in the instructions and metered each of the function connections at the main plug. All check out to spec. Except one, and I don't know what it should look like.
The instructions say to put the meter on AC and read the voltage on the blue wire from the coil. With the engine running, slowly increasing the throttle should result in a voltage increase. It does not state anything about what that voltage range should be. What I am seeing at the coil end is something like 24V at idle and increasing into the low 30's. At the plug I see 24V increasing only slightly to 25 or 26V, and then further no change at all. I understand that there is a resister in the wire that may(?) account for that, but I just don't know what I should be seeing. Maybe there is a problem with the wire/resister itself.
Can anyone help me out here?
What should be the resistance across the wire?
What should the AC voltage measurement look like? I am measuring between the blue wire and the ground wire on the connector.
Thanks in advance
Rod
97 K1100LT
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The voltage shouldn't matter. That's for figuring out which wire is the correct one. I'm pretty sure the servo is reading the frequency (similar to a tach.)
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That voltage is what I would expect to see there. Have you inspected the control cable, they do occasionally break by pulling the zinc nipple off the end at the actuator.
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Have you checked to make sure the brake light isn't stuck on and the connection for the wire that is hooked to the brake light is good?
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Have you checked to make sure the brake light isn't stuck on.........
BTDT. Have had my rear brake pedal sag a very slight bit, but enough to activate the brake light sometimes, and keep the cruize from activating.
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greetings rkildu...
my front brake switch was kinda sticky once... it was powering up my brake light... took a while to figure out why it would work sometimes and not work other times...
if i recall correctly recently you were messing with the adjustment on your rear brake lever... the 1st thing i would check is to see if that lever is powering up your brake light..
j o
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I know it's not the brake light . It still sticks occasionally but I wired an led on the dash into the brake light circuit so I can tell when it happens. If I just tap the pedal again I get it to go out.
I didn't consider that the servo was reading frequency, that does make more sense. I'm not very good with electronics.
I haven't checked the cable end, I'll take a look at that next.
Thanks
Rod
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Rod, did you check to make sure the brake (red) wire still has a good connection? That would be the same as having your brake light on. No worky.
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Rod, did you check to make sure the brake (red) wire still has a good connection? That would be the same as having your brake light on. No worky.
Scott the purple wire is the brake, the red is power but it still can be a bit intermittent on connection.
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That's why I just hardwire the red one to a switched positive.
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Rod, did you check to make sure the brake (red) wire still has a good connection? That would be the same as having your brake light on. No worky.
Scott the purple wire is the brake, the red is power but it still can be a bit intermittent on connection.
You're right. I'd check ALL connections as that is the easiest fix. DAMHIK
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Yep, I checked all of the connections, based on the installation manual troubleshooting instructions. Each connection was tested as was the brake circuit with both brake on and off. You get 12 volts and zero volts when testing the brake pedal/lever. Also, after sitting idle for 4 days I still had vacuum in the accumulator when I removed the hose.
I haven't had time to do any more testing this week, maybe over the weekend I can did a little deeper.
Thanks
Rod
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Just to give this a bump...I've been rather busy and just doing without. I just got back to analysing this thing....
I just checked the cable from the servo to the throttle. I did it the easy way by using a wire hook through the fairing vent egg crate. The connector is solid, all of the chain connectors are tight and there is very little slack in the cable. No issues in manually rotating the throttle.
About the only thing I can think of now is that the servo itself is dead?
Scratching my head
Rod
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Rod:
Give me a call. I'll PM you my phone #.