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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: BobR on January 24, 2012, 08:46:57 PM
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I have a 91 K100RS with an Ohlins rear shock. I have sent the shock off to Ohlins for routine refurbishment and am considering having them add some spacers to lower the bike so I can flat foot it. I would like to get about an inch lower at the seat. The Ohlins rep, although he was not intimately familiar with my model bike, said that he has heard of some BMW's experiencing drive train problems from mis-alignment when the bike is lowered in this manner. I have read a number of posts from folks in other forums that have installed lower shocks on this vintage of bike and have not seen where anyone has brought drive train mis-alignment up as an issue.
That being said, the guy has me thinking now if I want to do this at all, or maybe just try to get half an inch or so.
Anyone know of any problems of this nature when using a lower shock?
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I have a 91 K100RS with an Ohlins rear shock. I have sent the shock off to Ohlins for routine refurbishment and am considering having them add some spacers to lower the bike so I can flat foot it. I would like to get about an inch lower at the seat. The Ohlins rep, although he was not intimately familiar with my model bike, said that he has heard of some BMW's experiencing drive train problems from mis-alignment when the bike is lowered in this manner. I have read a number of posts from folks in other forums that have installed lower shocks on this vintage of bike and have not seen where anyone has brought drive train mis-alignment up as an issue.
That being said, the guy has me thinking now if I want to do this at all, or maybe just try to get half an inch or so.
Anyone know of any problems of this nature when using a lower shock?
NO, Dan has a cut down Ohlin Type IV with over 85K on the odo. You'll will give up some travel though.
Depending on how "vertically challenged" you are, elevator boots may be a better bargain.
(http://static.zoovy.com/img/motorcowboy/W300-H300-Bffffff/M/mvc_900f.jpg)
Don't laugh, gal in local club bought a custom pair of skyscraper soles from the shoemaker. She's flings her K 100 around with ease now that she can actually touch the ground.
JO's boot collection LOL
(http://www.ipso-facto.com/tyr303stomp306ravage2.jpg)
Go here:
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html (http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html)
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NO, Dan has a cut down Ohlin Type IV with over 85K on the odo. You'll will give up some travel though.
Mono or paralever? The mono is pretty much up and down while the para has geometry designed for a stock length shock.
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mine is a paralever
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mine is a paralever
Dan's RT is mono shock.
NO clue what would happen with a para ?
I still recommend the elevator boots.
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Another option is to have the edges of the rider portion of the seat shaved down a bit if you want to be able to flatfoot it.
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Remember, if you lower the back of a bike, you need to lower the front the same distance or you will change handling characteristics - rake and trail will change. Lowering the back will slow the steering, make the bike feel heavier but might make it more stable in straight lines at speed. You also need to modify the side stand to compensate for the lower stature. If you lower both the front and rear of the bike (and moving the triple clamps further down the forks is not correct way to do that) you will see little if any difference in handling save a little less ground clearance. For a good understanding of bike lowering check out http://www.racetech.com/html_files/LOWERING_SUSPENSION.html (http://www.racetech.com/html_files/LOWERING_SUSPENSION.html).
Seems like I have had this conversation before recently. :giggles
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I am looking into either getting a custom seat made or trimming my corbin as has been suggested. Can anyone recommend a seat repair outfit that I could get to trim it down?
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I am looking into either getting a custom seat made or trimming my corbin as has been suggested. Can anyone recommend a seat repair outfit that I could get to trim it down?
BMW dude,
EASY beans DIY project, study the below link carefully,pictorial reference.
http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/index.php (http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/index.php)
* tips & tricks for seat work:
* suffering from derriere discomfort, or vertically challenged ? _____ have NO fear
(http://www.geekologie.com/2009/07/27/motorcycle-seat.jpg)
* yard sale twin blade electric meat carver is the ticket for a foam cutting/shaping tool.
* local upholstery shops will usually let you buy small quantities of foam for
DIY
* marriage of hard and soft foam is a good thing
* vertical challenged ? trim the thigh portion of the foam for more reach
Who's who on "how to do it", at the below link, including foam types,
construction and finishing. Should keep your costs under $75 for all the
supplies and then the rest is a little elbow grease and trial and error.
Site:
http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/index.php (http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/index.php)
There are tabs at the top of the page for each section. The author lists a few
foam sourcing places online but hadn't really dealt with them. I have personally
used http://www.thefoamfactory.com (http://www.thefoamfactory.com) for a few (non-bike) related projects and
their product is low priced and good quality. I believe they actually have
several business names/websites but all are sourced from the same factory.
ANYWAY...I recommend using some of the high quality neoprene as it has excellent
properties for a foam that will be used in a weathered environment.
For reference, I've used the Volara closed cell foam and the Neoprene closed
cell foam. The Volara (all though it looks super pliable on the site) is
actually a bit stiffer and could be used for a support layer because of its
strength. The author recommends using some rebond foam (you can actually find
this sort of stuff at the local HD/Lowes in the carpet section) which looks like
a good alternative for a base material as well.
It seems like his emphasis is on providing more area to distribute the weight on
your butt (widening seat a tad), reducing forward angle toward tank etc.
After its tweaked to where you're really comfortable on it, you can either
re-use the existing cover or have it reupholstered by a local shop. Either way,
you get a personalized seat made just for your butt which is going to be better
than any of the pre-cooked high dollar versions from places like Corbin, etc.
which are built for the 'average' rider.
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I am looking into either getting a custom seat made or trimming my corbin as has been suggested. Can anyone recommend a seat repair outfit that I could get to trim it down?
Call around/visit locally to auto/marine upholstery shops and get some quotes.
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i generally wear these... especially when i know im gonna have to flatfoot it...
(http://www.hotstrippershoes.com/Delight-3012-b.jpg)
j o
What has been imagined cannot be un-imagined. :yow
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Johnny, has hard as times are I believe I would pay good money to see you wear those. :hehehe :hehehe
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i generally wear these... especially when i know im gonna have to flatfoot it...
(http://www.hotstrippershoes.com/Delight-3012-b.jpg)
j o
What has been imagined cannot be un-imagined. :yow
Remember Mrs. Marco JO ? Philippine first lady with the million dollar shoe collection ?
Here's a pic of her favorite riding boots. They would do justice on you bro. :hehehe
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/-W-myJt9uR0c/TqQnzARc8AI/AAAAAAAAEJs/YPS6wm-ZyWs/boots201111.jpg)
COLD rain today, NO riding, at least the slush is melting off.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5338288582_4678cb3fba_o.jpg)
peace out ________________.
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Don't laugh, gal in local club bought a custom pair of skyscraper soles from the shoemaker. She's flings her K 100 around with ease now that she can actually touch the ground.
JO's boot collection LOL
(http://www.ipso-facto.com/tyr303stomp306ravage2.jpg)
Go here:
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html (http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html)
ok, now these are just fugly!
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Don't laugh, gal in local club bought a custom pair of skyscraper soles from the shoemaker. She's flings her K 100 around with ease now that she can actually touch the ground.
JO's boot collection LOL
(http://www.ipso-facto.com/tyr303stomp306ravage2.jpg)
Go here:
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html (http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_your_bike_safely/index.html)
ok, now these are just fugly!
Those boots are the latest Goth rage among the youngster set, get HIP ! LOL
(http://apraxiablog.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/goths_group449.jpg?w=640)
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Nunna those gals looks happy enough to play with. You can have em.
I installed a lower Progressive shock on Ocelot. Being less travel, they made it fairly harsh. No probs with the sidestand, since these things lean so far over anyways. Gonna sell this thing to some short-legged bricker this coming year, I think. Between the factory low, the Corbin low, and the low shock, she's a flat footer.
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Nunna those gals looks happy enough to play with. You can have em.
I installed a lower Progressive shock on Ocelot. Being less travel, they made it fairly harsh. No probs with the sidestand, since these things lean so far over anyways. Gonna sell this thing to some short-legged bricker this coming year, I think. Between the factory low, the Corbin low, and the low shock, she's a flat footer.
Ocelot.....how much lower is the progressive shock from stock, and did you slide the forks up to balance out the rear going lower?
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I forget and no.
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greetings bobr...
im not sure if this transfers to the k100rs ... butts the k1100rs works performance short sock is 1" shorter than the works performance standard length shock...
no personal experience... however... while investigating suspension i have read about folks installing a 1" shorter rear sock and lower the triple tree 1" on the fork tubes with the noted negative impact being scraping feet and peg cause of the dramatically reduced ground clearance...
personally i would not do it.. i need all the ground clearance i can get..
j o
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Jeesh, I just ordered a Progressive rear, marketed as 3/4" shorter to replace the original shock. And I'm looking to get rid of some harshness! LOL. From reading the posts, I now realize my Marathon's are bias ply, which is part of it. I wonder if I should refuse it and get stock length.... :hmm:
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Jeesh, I just ordered a Progressive rear, marketed as 3/4" shorter to replace the original shock. And I'm looking to get rid of some harshness! LOL. From reading the posts, I now realize my Marathon's are bias ply, which is part of it. I wonder if I should refuse it and get stock length.... :hmm:
my 2cents is that it depends upon your situation. If you are short in the legs so that it is hard to put both feet on the ground and if you are not an agressive rider you should keep the new shorter ones. However, if you are a canyon burner you may need the clearance and should just tip toe it at stops.
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I just went from the shorter Works to a regular length Progressive 465. I'm 5'8" with a sub 30" inseam. I don't have the "low seat" but my seat is slightly lower than a stock seat (I think mine is off a K1100 or is some type of comfort set). I can still get pretty close to flat footing the bike. And it is a whole lot easier getting it on the centerstand.
It's hard to compare, since I don't know much about the previous Works shock, but it sure seems like the extra travel has added some comfort. I was worried at first (I didn't realize the Works shock was a short version). But in hindsight, I'm glad I got the regular length shock.
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I just talked to Progressive. The long and short of it (get it? :hehehe): At 190 lb. I'm heavy enough to make the shorter (by 3/4") shock respond as intended. Although its got to have a more aggressive spring rate, its still pretty soft at the beginning. The tech guy thought I'd be happy with it, but I think I'm going to swap it out. Hey, its hardly riding season here so there's no rush to do this. I'm not very aggressive a rider - yet, but I know that, with my first season back and 7,000 miles of riding in 35 years, I'm still on a learning curve, both with the bike and my skills. I'd like to know I can lean it as far its meant to if/when I want to or need to. http://www.motobrick.com/Smileys/MB_Smiley/popcorn.gif (http://www.motobrick.com/Smileys/MB_Smiley/popcorn.gif)
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It just makes sense the shorter one has to be stiffer so as not to bottom out. I only got it because I intended to flip this I'm 220 and 5' 11". I scored the shorter one because I intended at the time to flip this thing to a shorter rider, being the OEM short version. I've had zero probs dragging anything. Mighty easy to throw a leg over. Not so low as my R1200CLC, but plenty lower than my KLR650.
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The other reason I'm going to go with the standard length shock is I don't want to mess with lowering the front, or wondering about other balance issues and generally feeling like I'm second guessing the marque. Hey, isn't that why we ride the brand to begin with, bowing to German engineering and the long history of excellence? :bmwsmile
Anyway, I've gotten used to keeping the bike upright at stop lights and swinging my leg over....
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It just makes sense the shorter one has to be stiffer so as not to bottom out.
Spring weight is not determined by shock length, it needs to be determined by riders weight and riding style or the bike will handle horribly. Adjusting sag with the new travel numbers will determine the spring stiffness. Since there is less travel, it will most likely be a little stiffer, but it should not be so much so to be tremendously noticeable.
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Lowering the front is less than a snap. You loosen four bolts a bit, tap it down, and tighten them up. Absolutely no big deal. :2thumbup:
Lowering the front is not the least bit necessary. Ocelot isn't, and you don't notice at all. Handles fine. Absolutely no big deal. :2thumbup:
Just because you're Bavarian doesn't make you Gyro Gearloose. :loco:
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The Ohlins rep called me yesterday to let me know they completed the servicing of the shock and that they were unable to lower it at all using the spacer method. Can't remember exactly why but it was some valid reason. He said they could lower it another way but it would involve more $$$$, so at the end of the day I am back to where I started, but I am ok with that. I have a low seat I got off Ebay coming in so I will try to get what I need from that.
As a general aside, how often do folks get their rear shock serviced? first time for me although I have only had the bike for 3 1/2 years.
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i gotts approx 60k mostly fully loaded 2 up miles on a works performance rear shock with no signs of needing anything except more miles...
j o
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i gotts approx 60k mostly fully loaded 2 up miles on a works performance rear shock with no signs of needing anything except more miles...
j o
I agree_____________.
Depends on the "overall quality" of the shock and what type of roads you ride.
Ohlin type IV on the K 75 went 90K before a revamp. Truthfully, it really did NOT need much attention. Oil was little dark but the nitrogen pressure was spot on.
However, on a enduro machine the oil will break down from the heat quicker.
Ha, I wore out the OEM BMW shock on the K 75 is less than 20K,can you say POS.