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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: lewisnort on August 26, 2025, 08:23:10 AM
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I recently took the covers off my 1998 K1100LT and measured the valve clearances, some were a smidge loose but one on cylinder 4 on the intake side was extremely tight, 0.08-0.09 mm. Clearly this needs changing but this is all new to me.
Based on the results below how many of these need attention? Excuse my awful handwriting and oil spilling.
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I presume the size of the bucket is inscribed on it so I won’t know what to order until it’s out. If I’m not mistaken this is 100% a cam out job.
Are there any special tools I need specifically to get this done without destroying the timing, like the cam alignment tool in the workshop manual, is this crucial or are there some tricks to get it done without, if it is where can I get one from?
Will I need a way to hold the tensioner down for this?
Can I reuse cam cap bolts? Or rather nuts in this case, I assume so but I don’t want to make a mistake like that.
I’m planning on replacing plastics and chain while I’m there though I don’t know if it really needs it.
Any other advice when doing this is much appreciated, I have the workshop manual and a guide I printed off but it isn’t very informative and has no pictures.
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You can re-use the bearing cap nuts.
I updated this page this morning;
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/4valves/4valves.htm
The cam sprockets have notches in the center holes so the only align in one position with each camshaft.
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The cam sprockets have notches in the center holes so the only align in one position with each camshaft.
Ah I see, by ziptying the sprockets to the chain I don't have to remove them, even though they would be free hanging off the chain guide so to speak? So if I then match them back up I'll be good and I can leave the sprockets attached to the cams in place when replacing the chain to keep timing that way. I think I saw another thread on that where they ziptied the sprockets together to stop them spinning.
Since I have my engine vertical on a bench with the chain cover off, do you think a ziptie would be able to hold the tensioner down? Very multi purpose these zipties.
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When i swap valve buckets I detach the camshafts from the sprockets to get the camshafts out of the way.
If you're going to be messing with the chain then it's probably a good idea to mark the chain and sprocket here before removing the chain so that the same chain links are on the same teeth and timing remains the same when you put things back together.
(https://i.imgur.com/tdNBLyp.png)
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Be sure to notice that the bearing caps are stamped with sequential numbers as shown in yellow below.
(https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/4valves/4valve5.jpg)
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Be sure to notice that the bearing caps are stamped with sequential numbers as shown in yellow below.
Will definitely be marking everything as I go, and laying it out in order, is it just me or when I briefly checked everything over the other night is there no way of telling between the 6 and 9 cam cap?
Just thought that was odd if that's the case.
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Interesting observation. I guess you need to keep them in order when removing/replacing.
(https://i.imgur.com/j7L70fE.jpeg)