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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Blue_K75_EST on February 17, 2025, 08:16:02 AM
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What happened - while driving engine time by time cuts off ( very seldomly ). And time by time the starter keeps running, after switching kill switch on. Discovered this time when it has happened then all electrical system went crazy. Pushing blinker button it turns on both signal light, horn doesn't work, highlight also not working.
HAS anybody had that kind of problem before or am I again the first one? :)
Will start to post different videos. Cause I am quite shy I won't show my face :( sorry
VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjxZVgVjoZk
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Dirty starter motor is a common cause of electrical gremlins like turn signal issues.
Some K bike electrics ground through the starter and when the starter gets dirty inside from the brushes wearing down it causes problems.
The solution is to take the starter motor apart and clean it up.
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Welcome to Motobrick! I hope it won't disappoint you to know that we are more interested in what your Brick looks like than what you look like. :laughing4-giggles: Thanks for posting the video. 112350
As frankenduck has indicated, a dirty starter can be causing these problems. Here's how to clean it (https://www.kforum-tech.com/forum-area/__Files/how-to/Starter%20Motor%20Cleaning%20Tutorial.htm). Knocking the handlebar kill switch unit won't help break the circuit causing the starter to run on.
Clean all battery cable contacts at the battery positive and negative terminals and at negative cable ground at the transmission, too. Test your battery for its resting voltage and its voltage under load. If resting voltage isn't at least 12.6V, the battery needs to be recharged or replaced.
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++ as above, and while cleaning the ground contact points, it's easy to attend to the 4-pin under tank plugs, and replace the starter relay if you find the battery was below 12v. Good luck, Cheers
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The only time I had a starter keep running despite what I did with the kill switch, key, whatever, was when the starter relay welded itself together. I had to disconnect the battery and the terminals were very HOT!
This happened, I think, because I tried starting the bike with an under charged battery. I needed a new battery and a new starter relay. All good after that, as far as electrical issues anyway.
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Took the starter and cleaned it. for me seemed very ok, but still clened it deeply and istalled it back.
Next will clean check all cables. Does somebody know exaclty which ground cables might be problematic?
Will buy new starter relay - can somebody suggest something which will be OK. I am living in Europe and I can not find it nowhere - the code i am looking for is BOSCH 0332002161
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Motobins in UK has starter relays - BMW part 61311459008
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Pictured below is a dirty commutator. The arrow points at the discolored band that the brushes contact.When you finished cleaning did yours look like it? It should be bright metal. The cleaning could begin with using a pencil eraser, following with a scotchbrite pad and ending with fine emery cloth. It all depends on the amount of debris on the commutator. After cleaning with compressed air or a thorough swab with a lint free cloth and electrical cleaner should follow.
Tyco Electronics numbers can be used to search for the starter relay. They were the last source for starter relays in Bricks. V23232A0001Y015, V23232A0001X005
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-250225103323.jpeg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yV4B-bN814g
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Tyco Electronics numbers can be used to search for the starter relay. They were the last source for starter relays in Bricks. V23232A0001Y015, V23232A0001X005
I'd go for the X005 before the Y015.
The X005 is what MaxBMW sells and I know someone who had issues with the Y015.
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I'd go for the X005 before the Y015.
I know someone who had issues with the Y015.
One person's failure with a relay is not a convincing indicator of a widespread manufacturing flaw. It might say more about the person's luck the day it was purchased or installed. Maybe walking under a ladder, intersecting with the path of a black cat, or just doing the Hokey-Pokey first thing in the morning and forgetting the "turn yourself around part"was the cause. :laughing4-giggles:
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One person's failure with a relay is not a convincing indicator of a widespread manufacturing flaw. It might say more about the person's luck the day it was purchased or installed. Maybe walking under a ladder, intersecting with the path of a black cat, or just doing the Hokey-Pokey first thing in the morning and forgetting the "turn yourself around part"was the cause. :laughing4-giggles:
RBM can explain it better than I can but the K relay has a diode or resistor or something inside of the relay in order to prevent voltage spikes.
This Y005 even has the correct Bosch part number on it:
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61EybY0tNHL._SL1500_.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DLT455DZ/
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When the relay coil is deactivated the collapsing magnetic field creates a momentary electrical current.
Without the diode to provide a way to complete the path to ground for this bit of current the voltage in the coil can go to very high levels until it is high enough to generate a spark, usually in the switch that powers the starting relay.
This spark, which is just like the spark that ignites the fuel in the cylinders, can eventually burn the contacts in the start button enough to cause starting problems. The key word here is, eventually, making the damage gradual over a period of time.