Post by: Romonobyl on December 17, 2024, 07:34:22 PM
I'm now a retired empty-nester and my wife and I will be moving before long so I guess it's time to get this thing back on it's wheels again. I had already removed the tank and all the bodywork years ago to fix some frame rust and they'll be needing a respray, which is unfortunate as apparently the Lava Red paint color is a pretty rare find that was only offered in 1987. Regardless, it's time to set up shop:
Getting Started.jpg (100.29 kB . 768x576 - viewed 966 times)The body parts will be the last priority, obviously I have to get the mechanicals squared away first. Somehow a few of the fiberglass parts got cracked so that will all need repair before painting. They'll stay out of the way for now.
Body Parts.jpg (76 kB . 768x576 - viewed 1018 times)The first priority is getting the engine running, fortunately I sprayed the cylinders down with oil prior to hibernation so the engine spins freely. I played it safe and changed the oil and filter, good thing because the old stuff was thick as gear oil. I also drained the coolant and replaced it with a gallon of distilled water for now. I already knew the fuel pump was bad, so I ordered a new kit with hoses and filter. While waiting for that I did an inventory of what else was in need of attention. Both master cylinders were shot and the rear one was seized, so I started with that. The screws securing the MC to the foot peg mount were stuck solid, I removed the entire bracket but I couldn't even impact them loose. I feared this would be a harbinger of things to come but pressed on. I decided to disassemble the cylinder in-situ, and big surprise that wasn't happening either.
20241209_161641.jpg (59.34 kB . 768x576 - viewed 951 times)I soaked it with penetrant for days and finally got the guts to free up enough to hammer out with a small punch. Yuck...
Unseized.jpg (66.27 kB . 768x576 - viewed 997 times)It's the dreaded 13mm Magura unit so replacement will be a challenge. Motobrick to the rescue as I found several posts here with "alternative" options using generic master cylinders. I'll give the original cylinder a good inspection to see if it's even salvageable, if not it's fabrication time. Fortunately the caliper itself, although leaking, came right apart and just looks like it needs new seals. Well that's a little hope at least but forget that for now because THE FUEL PUMP IS HERE!!!
20241216_205456.jpg (55.76 kB . 768x576 - viewed 941 times)It went together easily enough, more to follow. Thanks for reading.
Post by: natalena on December 17, 2024, 11:25:33 PM
Post by: Romonobyl on December 18, 2024, 12:36:02 AM
I already have a good AGM battery on my wish list, but that investment can wait until I'm sure this thing can be saved. I want a cheapo battery for now but don't like what's available locally, so I have yet a few more days to kill before the new one arrives. I think I'll start tearing apart the front brakes to see what they have in store.
I started this project before thinking about creating a build thread so I didn't take that many pictures. From here on I'll start taking a lot more because that's a lot more interesting than reading my tiresome blathering. I already noticed a wiring issue that hopefully won't be a trend. Here's a teaser:
Bad Connector.jpg (69.15 kB . 768x576 - viewed 992 times) Disintegrated.jpg (42.98 kB . 768x576 - viewed 986 times)Post by: Laitch on December 18, 2024, 09:48:40 AM
I already have a good AGM battery on my wish list, but that investment can wait until I'm sure this thing can be saved. I want a cheapo battery for now but don't like what's available locally, so I have yet a few more days to kill before the new one arrives.A cheapo battery will work ok. The AGM in the photo from Battery Mart lasted me over 9 years then I bought another. The Brick is stored in an unheated shop for six months in winter temperatures sometimes dropping below zero for days at a time with its transmission battery ground strap disconnected. In spring it starts right up. The Brick is stored with a full tank of STA-BIL-conditioned fuel; the battery has been charged up during the last ride of the season before it's disconnected.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-181224091713.png)
I suggest cleaning the fuel tank's interior with a white vinegar solution to rid it of the varnish that is apparent and any other crud that could be lurking. Download the LE Jetronic training manual at the link on this page (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?board=61.0) for a helpful descriptionof the engine management system.
Progress is looking good!
Post by: natalena on December 18, 2024, 06:30:32 PM
Post by: stokester on December 18, 2024, 06:50:32 PM
Sending your injectors now to "Mr. Injector" will give you a jump on the reassembly delta. Thier turn around is good, but nobody likes waiting for a part to complete an assembly stage, so having it on the bench is nice. Cheers112350 112350 112350
Post by: Romonobyl on December 18, 2024, 09:30:30 PM
Sending your injectors now to "Mr. Injector" will give you a jump on the reassembly delta. Thier turn around is good, but nobody likes waiting for a part to complete an assembly stage, so having it on the bench is nice. Cheers
Yep, that one is on my "to do" list. I've been debating between that or just buying new, upgraded 4-hole injectors from Euromotoelectrics. I'll probably stick with the stock parts and get them refurbished as you mentioned, but I need to make sure this thing will even be salvageable after sitting for so long before investing too much more cash into it.
On that note, for those who have performed a similar project what might I expect as far as problems relating to the lengthy downtime? I've already found one electrical connector that has completely disintegrated, I have the sinking feeling that the electricals are going to give me the most grief which unfortunately isn't my strong point. Time will tell I guess.
Again, thanks to everyone for all the current and future advice, I only hope that the things I discover will eventually help someone else in the future.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 18, 2024, 09:41:24 PM
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Post by: daveson on December 19, 2024, 03:51:13 AM
Post by: Laitch on December 19, 2024, 06:36:27 AM
When I see mileage at 777.7 or something close to that (and 8 is about as close to 7 as you can get) I'm thinking maybe one of the cogs inside there has got the odd broken bit, and got stuck.The problems really start multiplying if the odometer is stuck at 666.0
Post by: stokester on December 19, 2024, 07:14:49 AM
I say this because my regularly ridden '93 at about 50k started to drip from the weep hole and my '94 which had been stored for a number of years did the same with only about 10k on the clock. While the procedure is not difficult it is not uncommon to have to repeat the process if not done correctly, been there. Lots of good information on this site.
Others may chime in about the impeller change over the years. I'm unfamiliar with the earlier version as both of mine have the later stamped one.
Post by: PitchlerBrick on December 20, 2024, 12:19:07 AM
112350 112350 112350The three new injectors I ordered from www.osidetiger.net have performed well. They are higher efficiency compared to OEM. It's a father and son operation. The guy I spoke with on the phone (dad or lad?) was helpful and knowledgeable, and the injectors shipped promptly.
Post by: natalena on December 20, 2024, 02:53:20 AM
On that note, for those who have performed a similar project what might I expect as far as problems relating to the lengthy downtime?Although not as extensive as your undertaking, the '87 K75S got a nice teardown and systems check within our Montana winter, and was ready for the Beartooth Highway opening. Good luck! Cheers
Post by: Romonobyl on December 21, 2024, 11:25:58 PM
Battery is here, it showed up fully charged but I'll keep it on the maintenance charger until I'm ready to install it. We're hosting for the holidays so I've been busy cooking and such, should be back on it in a few days. I couldn't help but noticed they didn't paint the polarity marks on the case like in the pictures on Amazon, but at least they're molded near the posts.
One issue that I already alluded to is the 5-pin connector for the hall effect sensor, for some reason it completely disintegrated when touched.
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I have the pins temporarily inserted into the female plug and protected with electrical tape until I figure out a permanent repair. I'm considering a molex connector for the core conductors and a separate bullet-style plug for the braided shielding, fortunately there is plenty of slack in the harness to play with. If the molex idea is a no-go I might create a mold and encase the pins in epoxy, but not until I get the engine running.
Like I said...this one's gonna be fun.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 21, 2024, 11:28:10 PM
Although not as extensive as your undertaking, the '87 K75S got a nice teardown and systems check within our Montana winter, and was ready for the Beartooth Highway opening. Good luck! Cheers
That's good to know, maybe there's hope after all. That's a very clean-looking machine.
Post by: frankenduck on December 22, 2024, 09:49:07 AM
Nobody who sells them has ever posted dyno charts or any other objective data to substantiate claims of better mileage or performance.
After trying the four holes, I've gone back to using Mr. Injector for the OEM injectors that the motors are designed to use.
Post by: natalena on December 22, 2024, 11:37:09 AM
I've had success with these connections, on the brick and other XTV/ATV. 5 years, and can still hose off the mud without wierd shorting issue's. Cheers
Post by: Romonobyl on December 22, 2024, 04:21:42 PM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FP1HXJ4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I've had success with these connections, on the brick and other XTV/ATV. 5 years, and can still hose off the mud without wierd shorting issue's. Cheers
I was digging through my stash and came across some old GM Weatherpack connectors from a past project, which are pretty much the same thing. Unfortunately these came prewired with pigtails and I'd rather not use splices if I can avoid them, so I'll probably get a kit like what you linked. I think I even have the proper crimping tool for the prongs, and of course a soldering iron just in case.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 22, 2024, 05:48:01 PM
I checked the voltage at the fuse for the pump while the starter was engaged and it was about 11 volts, which should be enough. The battery ground also checked OK but I think I'll still replace it with a more substantial wire, chasing electrical gremlins are par for the course after this much downtime. What I need to do is plumb a pressure gauge into the line from the tank to the fuel rail, there's no point in troubleshooting much further until I know I have a reliable fuel supply.
Speaking of electrical gremlins...
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That's what's left of the 5-pin plug for the hall effect sensor, and my janky (but temporary) repair. Oddly enough the ICU half of the connector is perfectly fine, but the other half on the HES harness crumbled into dust. This might have something to do with another problem I uncovered...no spark. I pulled the #3 plug and held it to ground while cranking, no luck. Once I get the fuel situation squared away that will be the next hurdle, something tells me I'll need to brush up on my knowledge of hall effect sensors. Points and condensers I can understand, but this should be a bit more challenging. I only wish I could get ahold of some of the diagnostic equipment that BMW designed for these bikes ages ago, but that's beyond unlikely. I just hate the idea of firing the parts cannon at this thing, especially since that's some very expensive ammo.
Looks like it's gonna be just me, my multimeter, some limited knowledge and a whole bunch of research...once again wish me luck.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 23, 2024, 10:15:14 AM
I'm not sure I agree one hundred percent on the detective work there on the mileage. When I see mileage at 777.7 or something close to that (and 8 is about as close to 7 as you can get) I'm thinking maybe one of the cogs inside there has got the odd broken bit, and got stuck. Then the actual mileage is a bit of a lucky dip. And the numbers don't line up too good either. It could be a coincidence, hopefully I'm wrong, but it's a good buy regardless. If you turn the knob, hopefully it resets to 0 and it's good.
The knob for the trip odometer is missing. I don't remember the story behind that, it might have been broken off some time while moving stuff around it the garage, but as far as the actual mileage goes there's really no "detective work" involved as I've owned the bike since new. My much younger and more durable butt experienced every one of those miles all those years ago.
Post by: daveson on December 23, 2024, 03:07:36 PM
When I saw almost all of the ducks lined up at seven, I thought, probably not a coincidence (since the numbers are struggling to turn) probably the odo and trip meter have stopped working, and probably stopped working before it was parked. Then the actual mileage would be higher than the reading.
The hundreds column and the tens column, they're trying really hard to turn to eight, but they just can't seem to make it. The units column probably just made it over the hill, and sits comfortably at eight. The tenths column gave up early. It was probably thinking "if the big boys can't do it, why should I even try?"
Anyway it's a tiny issue, I've seen bricks with 400,000 clicks.
Post by: Kaos on December 25, 2024, 07:13:31 AM
Ive been doing some internets for you.
And if you find a good car/motorcycle Paint Shop you can provide them with BMW Paint Code 575, metallic.
they should be able to mix it for you.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 25, 2024, 11:41:30 AM
True.
When I saw almost all of the ducks lined up at seven, I thought, probably not a coincidence (since the numbers are struggling to turn) probably the odo and trip meter have stopped working, and probably stopped working before it was parked. Then the actual mileage would be higher than the reading.
The hundreds column and the tens column, they're trying really hard to turn to eight, but they just can't seem to make it. The units column probably just made it over the hill, and sits comfortably at eight. The tenths column gave up early. It was probably thinking "if the big boys can't do it, why should I even try?"
Anyway it's a tiny issue, I've seen bricks with 400,000 clicks.
I think that whatever snapped the knob off also partially turned it and moved the numbers, I was able to use a small screwdriver to rotate what was left of the shaft which lined all the numbers up and reset to zero just like normal.
I used the odometer all the time to track fuel usage as I don't have a gauge and didn't want to rely on the light, so I'm sure it was working up to the time I stopped riding. That's the correct mileage.
Post by: daveson on December 25, 2024, 02:40:06 PM
Post by: Romonobyl on December 25, 2024, 03:31:34 PM
Post by: daveson on December 25, 2024, 04:38:17 PM
Post by: Romonobyl on December 25, 2024, 05:17:06 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 25, 2024, 11:22:45 PM
It's the display itself, the LCD segments are all blurred and barely readable.To me that means that the numerals are still readable so if they are reflective of the correct gear positions, you might be interested in this account of treating the fragmentation problem (https://www.kforum-tech.com/forum-area/__Files/electrical/PDF/K100%20gear%20indicator.pdf). The links in it to specific products are dead but other products are likely to be available.
Post by: frankenduck on December 25, 2024, 11:37:56 PM
https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/gpi/gpi.htm
Post by: Romonobyl on December 28, 2024, 10:41:44 PM
While waiting for the parts I decided to get proactive on other items needing attention, such as:
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These really put up a fight. I had to remove the fuel rail first then pry each injector out individually, it wasn't easy but I finally prevailed. They're on the way to Mr Injector, hopefully they'll be able to restore them.
I also removed the airbox to give the area a good cleaning and make sure the air flow sensor vane wasn't stuck, that's when I found the elbow duct was bad so that went on the list.
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I had already spliced in a fuel pressure gauge and when the pump would work it gave about 35psi of pressure and it held when shut off, so the regulator is still good but all the hoses were rock hard so they all came out. The vacuum hose will be easy but the two fuel hoses are preformed. I know of a technique using stiff wire and hot water to make custom formed hoses from bulk fuel line, I think I'll give that a shot. I also ordered a computer-safe test light which will be in tomorrow, that way I can do some proper troubleshooting instead of blindly attacking the poor bike with jumper wires and a multimeter. Hopefully my ham-fisting didn't cause any harm.
Post by: frankenduck on December 28, 2024, 11:08:07 PM
Post by: stokester on December 29, 2024, 06:30:41 PM
Mr. Injector is a good call. I've had a couple of sets rebuilt by him for a very fair price.
I'm not familiar with a way to preform the fuel line hoses but although the OEM ones are overly expensive, they do last a long time and fit properly without any extra effort but then I also use the Oetiker clamps with the proper clamping wrench as well.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 30, 2024, 01:32:54 AM
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The next step was a big, flat pan of boiling water. Fortunately I have just the thing with an electric skillet that I almost never use, so I dusted it off and filled the pan with hot water and turned the heat to max. It finally just started to make small bubbles so I switched it off and dropped in my masterpiece.
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I gave it about 7 minutes then plunged into some ice water.
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Well I was less than impressed with the results. The wire was too stiff to remove easily and when I finally got it out the hose had very little shape to it. I tried again this time with a piece of solid copper wire I scrounged up and exaggerated the bends considerably. Here's a banana for scale:
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This time I let the water get a bit hotter and left the hose in for about 15 minutes...better but still not great:
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Oh well, lets see if it works...
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Overall not too bad. That is the tightest bend and is a bit kinked, but so was the original hose and I blew air through it with little restriction. Actually that was the only bend that needed to be molded in, the rest of the hose reaches the regulator easily even without being "molded". I'll need to trim it down a bit but that will wait until I'm ready to reinstall the airbox.
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Thanks for reading, more to come...
Post by: Romonobyl on December 30, 2024, 02:12:26 AM
FYI: Typical failure symptom for HES is that they fail when they heat up so I doubt the HES is causing you starting issues.
I don't doubt it. I would have held off on buying a new HES until testing it if it wasn't for the dissolved plug. I'd rather stick with the factory connectors at both ends of the harnesses for the more critical components.
Post by: Chaos on December 30, 2024, 12:11:37 PM
Post by: Romonobyl on December 31, 2024, 03:09:01 PM
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-311224171040.jpeg)
Like I said...pretty crusty. I also just learned that these pictures should be taken in landscape to orient properly when uploaded, too late now but you get the idea.
The rheostat was packed full of crud that I should have cleaned out prior to the initial installation, better late than never. I went to town with a small brush, swabs and contact cleaner (I've read a lot about Deoxit here, is it really worth the price premium over standard contact cleaner?). I got it as clean as I could before hooking up the multimeter.
Resistance.jpg (92.78 kB . 768x576 - viewed 748 times)The rheostat showed open for the entire sweep until it hit the bottom stop where it read about 122 ohms. If this was a real sending unit paired with an actual fuel level gauge then I'd be suspect, but this only operates a warning light so why there's even a rheostat is beyond me. I have no clue what the actual readout should be but it's not working like a proper potentiometer. In order to really clean this thing I'll have to take it apart, which involves bending four metal tabs that I hope don't break.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-311224171337.jpeg)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-311224171633.jpeg)
20241230_172226.jpg (30.27 kB . 768x576 - viewed 749 times)Success, and not surprisingly I had a bit more cleaning to do.
Of course being a BMW it isn't wired like a typical rheostat either, this uses an unusual (to me) dual-wiper design that slides across both the wire coil and an adjacent metal plate, completing the circuit between the two and creating the variable resistance. The plate indicated open to both wires which isn't good, and the only way to get back there was to remove the phenolic plate with the wire coil. That's when I decided I can live without a low-fuel light for awhile, it's easy enough to get to this part as long as the tank is empty so this concern will get shelved for now.
What is of bigger concern is the fuel pump wires, upon a closer examination the insulation is in pretty bad shape and cracks easily.
Fuel Pump Wires.jpg (31.12 kB . 768x576 - viewed 728 times)Of course this requires special wire meant to be submerged in fuel, so there's another part I'm waiting on. Par for the course on a project like this.
Post by: daveson on December 31, 2024, 07:36:54 PM
I don't like the kink in the hose, it's too much. Maybe it could be routed differently. It might get worse on a hot day. You can also get external coils to eliminate kinks.
Post by: Romonobyl on December 31, 2024, 08:38:00 PM
The reason for being able to measure the level is for when the optional extra fuel level gauge is chosen.
I don't like the kink in the hose, it's too much. Maybe it could be routed differently. It might get worse on a hot day. You can also get external coils to eliminate kinks.
Yeah, I'm going to work on that hose a bit more. A little restriction is no big deal because that's just the return line from the regulator so the flow rate and pressure aren't very high, and the factory setup didn't look all that different, but I think I can do better. I'm looking for something I can use as an internal mandrel and try a bit more heat and maybe that will work a little better, or go with an external support like a spring as you mentioned. I'll make it work one way or another.
Post by: Ingo on January 01, 2025, 07:58:14 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 01, 2025, 12:23:36 PM
The kink (if sufficiently tight) will lead to increased fuel pressure at the injectors, resulting in over-rich fueling.That will be easy enough to determine tapping into the delivery line to the fuel rail with a pressure gauge during idling and revving—a test with which the OP is already acquainted.
Post by: Romonobyl on January 06, 2025, 12:30:21 AM
Therefore here's a brief update:
The fuel pump wires are here but I don't like the generic ring terminals that I have, so I ordered some higher-end parts along with a meter of PTFE heat shrink. This is not an area to go cheap on. While I'm waiting on those parts (that seems to be a theme here) I thought it would be a good time to see what shape the front brakes are in. Much to my pleasant surprise they came apart with little fuss and other than the perished rubber everything looked like new. Even the pads still had some decent meat left on them, unlike the rear caliper that was paper thin.
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After a thorough stripping and cleaning I slapped the halves back together and bagged/tagged the hardware. Three rebuild kits are next on the order list. What I'm not certain of is the rear master cylinder. I managed to finally break the mount bolts loose so I could remove it from the foot peg bracket (it took a little heat). I scrounged up an old M7 bolt from the hoard pile, hacked off the head and sawed a groove about an inch down the length. Stuff in a piece of Scotch-Brite and I've got a reasonably good master cylinder cleaner-upper. I know others have done this with a wooden dowel but this seemed a bit more durable.
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It's hard to tell from the picture but the cylinder cleaned up better than I expected. There is a slight amount of pitting at the very bottom of the bore but that's not where the seal rides. I'm debating on risking a rebuild or going with the adapting of a generic master cylinder route that has quite the following here. I'd really like to stick with as many original parts as possible but I'm not too keen on blowing $80 on a rebuild kit only to have it bleed all over my garage floor. I'm interested in any advice the pros here might have as to which way to go considering the condition of my part.
The engine is on hold until I get my injectors back, they should be in Idaho sometime tomorrow so it'll be awhile. Until then I have a new and improved 4-pin plug to replace the problematic one for the fuel pump, that and the brake bits should keep me occupied while Mr. Injector does his thing. I can't wait to hear this motor run again, just hearing it turn over with the starter brings back fond memories.
As always, thanks in advance for any input.
Post by: natalena on January 06, 2025, 12:45:02 PM
* not original, but Spiegler ss brake lines would be nice and good ROI.
Post by: Romonobyl on January 06, 2025, 03:48:57 PM
You're getting a lot accomplished for a "fun" project, kudos to you. Did a rebuild on the front MC, which looked much worse than your rear MC, and it's fine after 7ish years. I'm with you on keeping original parts when possible. Slack time seems to get filled with checking wheel bearings and shaft/spline/drive gear stuff...time murderer's. Cheers
* not original, but Spiegler ss brake lines would be nice and good ROI.
Actually my front master cylinder seems to be in pretty decent shape. I haven't taken it apart yet but the lever moves freely and other than a leak under the reservoir (very common, already have a new O-ring) it looks much cleaner than the decrepit rear cylinder.
I'm definitely going with new hoses everywhere. I've seen the mod where the two front calipers are plumbed together with a hard line over the fender and a single hose runs from the MC to the right brake, I like that idea. There's a place near me that does custom hoses, just bring your old stuff or tell them what you want and they'll hook you up. Not sure how much that costs but it's also a possibility.
I'm crossing my fingers on the injectors being repairable. I wanna hear that baby purr!!!
Post by: Martin on January 06, 2025, 07:09:51 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Romonobyl on January 10, 2025, 07:55:13 PM
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Not the best picture, but that was the terminal on the fuel level sender where the positive wire for the fuel pump is supposed to attach. I was trying to solder on the new wire when it snapped off with just the slightest touch from my soldering iron. I guess it's a good thing, glass half full and all, that it broke now and not inside of a full tank of gas sometime down the road (literally). I've been researching the many posts here with clever alternatives to this notorious bit of kit, which certainly have my interest considering replacement options. EME has the only aftermarket offering, and at $270 each they obviously know it. Worse comes to worst I'll pry my wallet open, but only as a last resort. I normally wouldn't mind not having a functional fuel warning light, but unfortunately the knob for the trip odometer broke off at some point and not being able to reset the miles between fill-ups is problematic.
Oh well, fortunately I'll have some distractions soon. The seals for the brake calipers will be here tomorrow along with a new air filter. I already reinstalled the airbox with a new elbow, refitting the airflow sensor into the upper half of the airbox was a bit tricky but it's all back together and hopefully for good. I was able to re-route my custom "preformed" fuel return line so the kink at the tank is mostly gone, and best of all the fuel injectors are on the way back from Idaho (thanks Mr. Injector!) and will be here in 4 days. Once all that's back together the engine should be ready to run for the first time in 30 years...if only I had some fuel pressure.
I'm still doing a deep dive on my options, I'm impressed by the creativity many of you have on alternatives to this troublesome issue. I wish I had waited on messing with those wires until after I had the engine up and running but too late now. If anyone has any additional advice on this I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks as always.
Post by: Laitch on January 10, 2025, 11:56:43 PM
I normally wouldn't mind not having a functional fuel warning light, but unfortunately the knob for the trip odometer broke off at some point and not being able to reset the miles between fill-ups is problematic.Here's a trip odometer knob (https://www.ebay.com/itm/176294862055?_skw=k100+odometer+knob&itmmeta=01JH9TEFTJC1SNDW44AN8DSRP7&hash=item290bfe1ce7:g:bwEAAOSw20tl-aTM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlF0hMyfOIRCCNAcbSW6eHWHzxei0Rr5dzyAtwBzNwlKfPdF5HyZsGw9NWBXpQoL36MmXSTiswg3tQGcNZskJ9RBpz3Aq38uIfIidkOcf6r6tZFkCUom%2FFVbSaPW9G5Kp%2Fik9FavDkEfeKSUrFhLZr1GupB3jQcH8bW9F5KapBKXQ%2FXSJLa3tzHOlA8UH6RixOZA9u09Hek5CN5Z9VwcJI1vezzILj8DXc1IxrPmIE%2BspJT8IZwL1QgewLpFLlE37w%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7j9ubqKZQ) but it's misidentified by the vendor. It looks like an trip meter knob to me—62111459244. If it was just the knob that broke off but not the stem onto which it's mounted, this might work.
Post by: frankenduck on January 11, 2025, 12:59:54 AM
Here's a trip odometer knob (https://www.ebay.com/itm/176294862055?_skw=k100+odometer+knob&itmmeta=01JH9TEFTJC1SNDW44AN8DSRP7&hash=item290bfe1ce7:g:bwEAAOSw20tl-aTM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlF0hMyfOIRCCNAcbSW6eHWHzxei0Rr5dzyAtwBzNwlKfPdF5HyZsGw9NWBXpQoL36MmXSTiswg3tQGcNZskJ9RBpz3Aq38uIfIidkOcf6r6tZFkCUom%2FFVbSaPW9G5Kp%2Fik9FavDkEfeKSUrFhLZr1GupB3jQcH8bW9F5KapBKXQ%2FXSJLa3tzHOlA8UH6RixOZA9u09Hek5CN5Z9VwcJI1vezzILj8DXc1IxrPmIE%2BspJT8IZwL1QgewLpFLlE37w%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7j9ubqKZQ) but it's misidentified by the vendor. It looks like an trip meter knob to me—62111459244. If it was just the knob that broke off but not the stem onto which it's mounted, this might work.
It LOOKS LIKE a K trip odo knob but look closer at the pictures. The Ebay one has a hole for a semi-circular shaft while the K bike trip odo knob has a slit in the middle.
Post by: Laitch on January 11, 2025, 02:54:42 PM
It LOOKS LIKE a K trip odo knob but look closer at the pictures. The Ebay one has a hole for a semi-circular shaft while the K bike trip odo knob has a slit in the middle.Clearly, it is not what is labeled on the package. If all Motometer tripmeter knobs have the slot-over-spade knob as you have indicated, then what does this knob fit and can it be adapted to fit? It has certain similarities. Is it a radio knob?
eBay
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-110125144612.png)
Parts fiche
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-110125144715.png)
Post by: Romonobyl on January 11, 2025, 03:13:53 PM
It LOOKS LIKE a K trip odo knob but look closer at the pictures. The Ebay one has a hole for a semi-circular shaft while the K bike trip odo knob has a slit in the middle.
I thought the same thing until I zoomed in tighter on the picture. What looks like a "D" shape is actually a slotted hole, so it might be the right thing. I'll likely have to take my module apart to verify what it should look like.
The part number I found online for the knob I need (which is different from the Ebay offering) is discontinued pretty much everywhere. I did find a dealer in Italy that supposedly has one, but I think I'll keep searching.
Thanks to all for the replies.
Post by: frankenduck on January 11, 2025, 04:41:52 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/KihryPX.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2025, 01:27:04 PM
The part number I found online for the knob I need (which is different from the Ebay offering) is discontinued pretty much everywhere.The part number you found online for the knob you need differs from the eBay offering because the vendor doesn't realize that the part number on the bag in the photo is part of a telltale light assembly within the cluster and not for a knob of any kind. I tried to make that clear in post #47 but apparently did not succeed.
Below is the part that actually belongs to the number on the bag in the ad photo.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-140125131003.png)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-140125131451.png)
Post by: Romonobyl on January 19, 2025, 04:45:25 PM
The refurbished fuel nozzles came in and reinstalled easily after some very judicious cleaning. I temporarily put the tank in position with some bodged pump wiring and added a gallon of fresh gas. The good news is the pump operated normally and fuel was circulating through the tank, but I found a small leak at the tank nipple for the fuel hose from the pump, but only when the pump is running. It wasn't bad enough to keep me from giving the starter a go, but still no spark. Time to break out the multimeter...again.
Got 12VDC to the coils with the key in RUN, so far so good. The coils checked out at just under one ohm for the primary winding and about 12-13K on the secondary, works for me. Now the HT leads to the plugs? Nothing...zero, zilch, nada. Even at the highest setting I couldn't force a single electron down those wires. I made sure I had good contact with both terminals, but all three cables were wide open. My understanding is I should be getting about 6 Kohms, not even close.
I'm a bit surprised by this, I wouldn't expect something as relatively inert as spark plug wires to suffer total failure even after a lengthy indoor storage. Apparently I'm wrong. Looks like it's back to EME for a set of cables, fortunately they aren't too expensive. Meanwhile I'll investigate the tank leak.
I have a few pictures of the cleaning process I had to go through prior to the fuel nozzle install, I'll post them with a little more detail as I want to share what I learned. Thanks for reading!
Post by: frankenduck on January 19, 2025, 07:19:41 PM
Post by: Romonobyl on January 19, 2025, 09:58:21 PM
K75 spark plug leads have a "resistive gap" in them. They're an open circuit if you apply an ohmmeter to them.
A little voice told me to hold off on ordering those cables. I did a search for troubleshooting the ignition system (obviously from some "lesser" website) and that's where I got those ohm readings from, but I also found it strange that all three cables were equally "bad". While it's good news that I didn't waste money on unnecessary new parts, now I'm going to have to dig deeper as to why I'm not getting any spark. I already disconnected and cleaned the connectors for both the ignition and fuel injection control units, I did the same to the ground lug under the tank. I know there's voltage going to the coils, but if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly (a challenge as the aviation-grade schematics I'm familiar with use a very different format), the ICU controls the ignition pulses via the ground using data from the HES.
I guess it's back to the drawing board, I have a copy of Bert's troubleshooting guide and I'll have to patiently go through each step. Tedious but certainly better than just firing the parts cannon, especially considering how much the ammo costs.
Thanks as always Duck for the heads up, I appreciate how everyone has been patient with this newbie and keeping me from doing something stupid. Believe my I'll need all the help I can get in that department!
Post by: Gabriel70 on May 10, 2025, 02:14:04 AM
Hi
Im thinking it might be a faulty ignition control unit.