MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: RustyK on November 08, 2024, 06:56:08 AM
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Following on from my tale of woe (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=15710.0) buying a K sight unseen from someone that said "it just needs some fuel, a battery and the tires pumped", I decided to do it again - although this time I'd only buy one I could ride home. I had spotted one on eBay no one had bid on for the pricey sum of £750 and I just could not figure out what the catch was. Well I only had 10 minutes before the auction ended to decide.
2 days later.....
(https://i.imgur.com/B74P66xh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cp77Sohh.jpg)
It started life as a 91 K100 - and ultimately lost its fairing on a hot Spanish tour where the owner said he needed to get some airflow over himself. its got some Honda headlight, and has 36k miles on the clock. Mint? No, but a gazillion times better than the last one.
It has only 2 "faults" - the choke/fast idle light is always on - even though its not, and I've now found out the headlight low and high beam doesn't work - only the park light and the flash to pass engages the bright.
It was suprisingly fun to ride home.
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112350
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Congrats on a nice condition, running brick for less than a 4 digit price. Enjoy, Cheers!
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Choke light:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/choke/choke.htm
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Nice pick, 750 quid for a 36k mile bike with those minor inconveniences is basically a steal nowadays.
I've red your rusty brick story and man.. I had one of those as well. Bought for 200 and looked like it had sat in the ocean for years with only 69k (kilometer) which is about 49k miles?
Brought it to the metal dump this weekend (had it sitting around for about 6 months) and got me 21 euro back.
I did harvest all the good parts tho and sold of the extra parts. All and all ended making a small profit.
Now comes the good part. [insane glare] 23 years old, 36k miles, watch your bolts when pulling it appart. sounds like it has been sitting still for a long time.
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Thanks guys - apologies imgur seemed to get stuck in a loop uploading my photos.
I've set about collecting the parts I want for the last 2 months.
I had acquired a lovely set of forks earlier - as seen in the other thread
(https://i.imgur.com/wfhxCllh.jpg)
However they are off at T-Tech getting the seals replaced and set up.
(https://i.imgur.com/pSpnQIIh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jVKc3XNh.jpg)
New headlight.
(https://i.imgur.com/EiM0PZgh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0jKLtIah.jpg)
I did a test fit, which is when I found out the low beam & high beam currently doesnt work. I think I know what it is, but I'm replacing the switchgear anyways.
Speedo also arrived.....
(https://i.imgur.com/fMJKCf2h.jpg)
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Parts of been trickling in - much to the annoyance of the missus. Not the purchases, but the ringing of the doorbell while she is on work calls. boohoo
(https://i.imgur.com/yU9vFQ5h.jpg)
i'm going to try these switches..... This will be the function buttons for the daytona speedo. And I've now ordered a 4 button too as I like the quality, so I'll be using them for indicators, horn, headlight beams.
(https://i.imgur.com/Xe4T1LUh.jpg)
A mate of mine has just bought a blasting cabinet and compressor setup, so obviously we're looking for things to blast...... I've been toying with what to do with the engine covers.........
(https://i.imgur.com/S6GuGijh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iR4guJGh.mp4) (https://imgur.com/iR4guJG)
(Click for video if this doesnt work)
Nice, easy, even. I like the finish, now to decide on paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/kJh7ESYh.jpg)
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I pulled the front cover off, and I'm not sure what to do with this. Obviously water has gotten in and corroded the sensor bracket. This bike works fine and rides well, but this looks like something I may as well replace..... Perhaps I could just clean up the plate - but are these a known problem child on these and does it make sense to replace new?
(https://i.imgur.com/sZi1Ny7h.jpg)
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That hall sensor definately needs to be replaced.
Seeing that front, you probably want to check your waterpump as well.
Just to be sure, your Daytona velona -w? (Looks like the w model), has buttons underneath to configure it and adjust settings. So you might not need the buttons for the Speedo.
And from experience, you might want to look for an rpm stabilizer because itl fluctuate alot.
If you're in dire need of a specific engine part or parts shoot me a dm.
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That hall sensor definately needs to be replaced.
Seeing that front, you probably want to check your waterpump as well.
Just to be sure, your Daytona velona -w? (Looks like the w model), has buttons underneath to configure it and adjust settings. So you might not need the buttons for the Speedo.
And from experience, you might want to look for an rpm stabilizer because itl fluctuate alot.
If you're in dire need of a specific engine part or parts shoot me a dm.
Yeah, the water/oil pump will definitely be getting rebuilt. What hall sensors are the best to replace with these days?
Yeah, the W has the buttons, but i'd like to flick through the options on the move from the bars. I remember seeing a thread about an RPM issue with these. Any recommendations for a stabilizer?
I'm sure I'll have tons of questions when its wiring time!
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The k100 and the k1100 all have the same oem number for the hall sensor. So grab one a new as possible of with the fewest miles. They should only be around 20 ish maybe 30 ish pounds.
For stabilizing the meter, Daytona has this noise reduction wire: DAYTONA VELONA TACHOMETER - OPTIONAL HARNESS, 98641.
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The k100 and the k1100 all have the same oem number for the hall sensor. So grab one a new as possible of with the fewest miles. They should only be around 20 ish maybe 30 ish pounds.
For stabilizing the meter, Daytona has this noise reduction wire: DAYTONA VELONA TACHOMETER - OPTIONAL HARNESS, 98641.
Not sure where you seeing ones that cheap - they seem to be about £90! And then k parts holland has new ones for 130 euro! Well, I have some time so I'll keep an eye out - I may also just try sort this one out too - it could all be superficial.
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As I'm going to be running GSXR front forks, brakes and callipers, I thought I may was well use the master cylinder and clutch levers from it too. I found a cheap one from a crashed bike on eBay - £20, it had some damage to the lever and the corner. I'll be honest I dont actually remember clicking buy but it arrived.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZcLRNCwh.jpg)
Anyways, this was an opportunity to experiment with some paints. First attempt was satin black - too shiny
(https://i.imgur.com/ewoOfSYh.jpg)
Matt looks much better
(https://i.imgur.com/SalXwH6h.jpg)
I managed to find a black lever from the 1000 new for £20.
So this is ready, and looks great (IMHO). But i'm expecting issues with it as I didn't replace the piston seals (they are weirdly expensive) - hopefully the brembo assembly lube will keep it nice until the install.
(https://i.imgur.com/PSJips1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/62IFeX5h.jpg)
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A small update!
I've got a few bits that I've ordered!
(https://i.imgur.com/bMdnm5al.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mUhiQuOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cT4ENf0l.jpg)
Very very nice stuff! 112350
So mocked it up - and thinking its looking great!
(https://i.imgur.com/QKExZlcl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bwiruKdl.jpg)
So now the strip down starts in earnest. Time to get cracking as I've got a bit of a space problem as I've bought another bike.
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Its taking time to do this - and I'm gathering loads and loads of parts as I go that I'll have to sell/give away. If anyone is looking for something specific let me know.
(https://i.imgur.com/eDTjbaUl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ko8rDrxl.jpg)
Recording the mileage.
(https://i.imgur.com/5rrx9bKl.jpg)
One job I was dreading were the exhaust studs - flashbacks to the SM and ADV.... But, I spent a couple nights adding penetrating lube - and then went at it with an impact driver. The came out surprisingly easy - except 2 I rounded and had to hammer a smaller socket on. But no broken bolts! 8-)
(https://i.imgur.com/HNY6EVNl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d8ZpKu6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t3CEyhql.jpg)
One surprise was the rear brake pedal. Just what is this ali made of?
(https://i.imgur.com/GVsGsFHl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WlyOFG9l.jpg)
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Nearly have completely town down!
(https://i.imgur.com/qWSrLRZl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8I2W9TLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uNLTDBRl.jpg)
This was a big milestone! All connectors labeled and hopefully I can figure this all out later :shock:
(https://i.imgur.com/f87YmA1l.jpg)
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. But no broken bolts! 8-)
Pfff lucker.
Any luck with the hall sensor btw?
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I've not bothered looking for the sensor yet - way too much other stuff going on - I'll be on the prowl when I start assembly.
Reached the last milestone before the frame comes off and I go to town cleaning and painting things.
(https://i.imgur.com/9KgkVonl.jpg)
The moment of truth - after the disaster that the last one presented me with when I peered into the intakes..... :(
(https://i.imgur.com/whlhR5Il.jpg)
Clean as a whistle!
(https://i.imgur.com/VDzxCYZl.jpg)
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Steady progress, well done! My wife really likes your work area and commented on it being attractive as a "modern man in natural environment" exhibit. Building a storage garage, and like the sliders vs overhead doors. Good luck with the frame prep/paint. Cheers
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Ah thanks! Its a bit tight, but I'm lucky enough to have a space to work on things in London (well, I prioritised and built it) - most people have converted their garages into living areas.
But if it ever comes to sell, this would make a good games room/home office/whatever.
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Finally done - and I've taken a fair bit more off of it!
(https://i.imgur.com/arURsLql.jpg)
One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here. Looking on the parts diagrams - for instance here (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51747), it looks like this is expected?
(https://i.imgur.com/hpIrDJVl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PcoGDudl.jpg)
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Comming apart nicely. Almost makes me want to do it a 4th time.
One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here. Looking on the parts diagrams - for instance here (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51747), it looks like this is expected? besides the gunk that is.
this looks as expected. If I recall correctly, mine was the same.
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One question I have - on the swingarm pivot bearings - in the Haynes manual there is reference and images of a grease cup. There is none on both ends here.
You might take a deeper dive, just to be certain. The photos below from Max BMW depict what's on offer there. If your Brick's bearings are sealed and have no roughness in rotation, you're good to go.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-150325113159.png)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-150325113241.png)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-150325113308.png)
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-150325113413.png)
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. If your Brick's bearings are sealed and have no roughness in rotation, you're good to go.
Ill just take the shot, as the goal is open.. After cleaning them.
With a Q-tip. (not the rapper) or yes, with the rapper.
But also with wd-40 "everything cleaner"
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Yeah, the bearings are looking okay. The bearings could do with some grease but the races feel okay - although they have some discolouration where the rollers have rested. At £35 each I may just try repack them ultimately as they felt fine.
I've used the shaft axel as the test bed to removing the oxidation etc. Plain manual labor and light degreaser seems to win - but ultimately this is going in my mates sand blasting cabinate.
(https://i.imgur.com/w3WUcyNl.jpg)
I went to work on the gearbox housing - initially removing all the oil/grease with brake cleaner/degreaser etc
(https://i.imgur.com/VdxTr4Yl.jpg)
to
(https://i.imgur.com/YVqUeqCl.jpg)
And then just wire brushes on the drill - - its going to take some time but I think its going to get there - ultimately I'm getting it ready to paint - and that in itself is proving tricky to select the paint - I want the engine block, bell housing and gearbox the same at least - ideally matt black - but the question is does it really need "high temp" paint? The UK looks like the options simply are https://www.simoniz.uk/products/engine-enamel/ or similar. I've used it before on my SMR's radiator and its help up very well.
(https://i.imgur.com/vzUHSxrl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZspjsQ5l.jpg)
I didnt think it was all that successful until I put it next to the motor.
(https://i.imgur.com/P1rnfY3l.jpg)
one thing is for sure. This is going to take some time. :johnny
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Looks like when a buddy needed help cleaning a boat that sat at dock for a year...above waterline a beauty, below the line was a barnacle, bearded mess.
I'm impressed at how nice your rims look!
Keep those delivery driver's busy, you'll be first name basis in no time.
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Once you completely strip things down it looks worse than it really is..... or is it the other way around? :johnny
Anyways, this is probably the most attention this bike has had in years - and its cleaning up well. A mate fed some of the parts you can put in a sand blasting cabinet through one and its certainly looking good! Video/Gif links
(http://i.imgur.com/mrBFervl.mp4) (https://imgur.com/mrBFerv)
(http://i.imgur.com/6kbqRJrl.mp4) (https://imgur.com/6kbqRJr)
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(https://i.imgur.com/P1rnfY3l.jpg)
one thing is for sure. This is going to take some time. :johnny
yeah.. it will take more than "some" time. :laughing4-giggles: . Best advice is; have a beer at hand, music you can mentally zone out with, a good brush and no plans on doing it fast.
think i've spend a good weekend brushing mine to a shiny state from a similar starting point as yours.
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Well we're into the nuts and bolts of the thing - literally :)
I'm trying to clean up the motor a little in order to paint soon - as once the cases are split I don't want to have dust go into the motor
(https://i.imgur.com/Q9p7hp6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YXw7GTNl.jpg)
The rear main seal is definitely leaking (this was cleaned up a little)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lcqoncel.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UbpXd8Zl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5Vjamy2l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NLweUzDl.jpg)
Sprag looks good
(https://i.imgur.com/XNVgffJl.jpg)
Opening the waterpump - I was just hoping the shaft was okay. Well, turns out everything was okay - but in order to prepare and paint it I need to strip it anyways. It was a real pain getting the cover off / break the seal.
(https://i.imgur.com/RKaOidLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vEEA9Zel.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h5qo4ha.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DMkzDAh.jpg)
Shaft is fine - the marks are superficial.
(https://i.imgur.com/xataZgB.jpg)
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Excellent photos as usual. 112350
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What exactly are you using to get results like that? I feel like an idiot, after hours and hours of work prepping for paint this is the state mine is in, any tips at all? Especially getting down in all those crevices. [ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
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Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)
(https://i.imgur.com/rI0Rd48l.jpg)
To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.
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Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)
To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.
I think i need to just bite the bullet then and get a proper dremel instead of the cheap tiny plastic crap one from halfords, do you know the brand of yours or where you got the little brushes from?
What paint are you going with? I got some simoniz etch primer and their 'one coat tough paint' in satin black. I'm hoping 2 cans of etch primer will be enough
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I just got a legit Dremel and some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QN2YV1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
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The bottom of the motor is the worst paint/corrosion wise. I also dont have much space and I'm too anal about making an oily mess that I'm doing the motor in 3 parts.
My plan is to do the 3 covers last - as they can be done easily independently. So lets start with the bottom - I've ordered all the bits needed for the rebuild (seals, bearings etc), flipped the motor and torn it down. The counter shaft 2 bolts and 2 hex bolts we incredibly tight - I was extremely worried about stripping/breaking them - but they eventually came. I'd feel better about replacing them - but see they dont seem readily available. Anyways, I'm over thinking things I'm sure.
The normal oil pickup silicon.
(https://i.imgur.com/oQNhLxpl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6EhBP5Kl.jpg)
Masked it all off
(https://i.imgur.com/bVi7ib8l.jpg)
Went to town with cleaning it - including dremel etc
(https://i.imgur.com/zHTldpzl.jpg)
Now on to paint - this is experimenting a little - I've gone with VHT - SP148 primer, SP124 Gloss Black, and SP145 Gloss clear lacquer.
(https://i.imgur.com/sr49vtDl.jpg)
A fair bit of learning here - the hardest was the recesses and corners. This is where it looked the best, but in corners and hard to reach places it was a bit light.
(https://i.imgur.com/FAxNUl5l.jpg)
Overall - I'm happy with it
(https://i.imgur.com/cQiH0Ecl.jpg)
The only issue is I dont know what I'm going to do to "cure" it. Its supposed to sit in an oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes - well, this wont fit. So I may try a heat gun for a bit, but its going to be another month plus before I can run the motor to cure it.
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The only issue is I dont know what I'm going to do to "cure" it. Its supposed to sit in an oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes - well, this wont fit. So I may try a heat gun for a bit, but its going to be another month plus before I can run the motor to cure it.
It's looking really nice, I did a fair bit of research on what paints and finishes to go for before I went with a 'one coat' and no clear coat. but from what I've gathered, while the finish will be really fragile until you do cure it, It'll still cure when you get to it?
How are you going about masking off the inner spark plug crevice section of the head? I was thinking about stuffing tissues in the holes and calling it good spraying the area with the cam cover off.
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It's looking really nice, I did a fair bit of research on what paints and finishes to go for before I went with a 'one coat' and no clear coat. but from what I've gathered, while the finish will be really fragile until you do cure it, It'll still cure when you get to it?
How are you going about masking off the inner spark plug crevice section of the head? I was thinking about stuffing tissues in the holes and calling it good spraying the area with the cam cover off.
Yeah, I think I've over-thought this - as before I just used Simoniz tough spray paint before on a radiator and it was perfect. I think I may stick to that for the bellhousing and gearbox - who knows. I've got an entire rack of different paints.
I'm not too worried about inside the spark plug crevice - will use the same and I've got these little rubber stoppers - but otherwise some kitchen towel will be stuffed in there. I plan to do that and the top of the motor with the covers off - the bottom is just being done first so I dont have to slip it. :D
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Wire brushes on drills - several types and sizes. (see one in this photo)
To get into the tighter spots I have a selection of wire brushes for my dremel too. Its a fine balance between not just spreading oil around - early on it works just to go mad with the wire brush. Brass apparently is even better - but as I'm painting soon I dont really mind a bit.
Just thought I'd report back that I did try some brass dremel brushes as well though they don't seem to work nearly as well as the steel, all I managed to do was transfer a brassy gold finish to the still oxidised block.
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I think you need to get a selection of things.
This is hands down the best and fastest set of brushes I've got https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-straight-shank-preparation-brush-set-3-pieces/380jf
But they do not get into corners and gaps very well. The brass set is actually smaller and helps. And then the dremel just to clean up the bits that they cant get to.
But I've now found something all these were struggling with - the fins on the sump - because its deep. I went and got some of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-wire-brush-set-2-pieces/132xg and its helping get into the grooves.
(https://i.imgur.com/lpn51BCl.jpg)
And then stuff that fits goes into my mate's sandblaster. This is more effort than I ever thought it would be. boohoo
But its paying off.
On a side note - my custom stuff arrived! 103123
(https://i.imgur.com/Z7hy3zrl.jpg)
Its a bit of a cheat - but I think it sorts the weird frame hump at the rear I'm not a fan of.
(https://i.imgur.com/vzNMxXBl.jpg)
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Fantastic outcome, looks great. I've cured large objects with the oven by pulling the rack partway out, door open, and making a tent with aluminum foil sheets folded tightly at the overlaps. It keeps at "jerky making" low temps fine, and should hold 200f easily.
Downside is the smell, and if you're already taking kitchen towels to plug holes on the block, there's a good chance punishment will be concurrent sentencing. ;)
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Well price turned to absolute heartbreak. The VHT can recommended SP145 GLOSS CLEAR ENGINE ENAMEL - so I got some - and applied it a week after the original engine enamel was applied.
I didn't think I coated too thickly on the first 1/2 quotes, but I suddenly noticed this.
(https://i.imgur.com/smAVFN8l.jpg)
:johnny
I scratched it and it flaked off afterwards. (╯°□°)╯( ┻━┻
There are other small spots that this happened - but well hidden in groves etc and this is the underside of the motor. So the question is whether my OCD wins and I re-do this all.
In the mean time - I decided to apply the very widely available Simonez to the gearbox housing - sooo much easier and simpler - and I think it looks great! As there is not primer its not as smooth, but I actually like the semi imperfect finish - more of a matt feel too. I think it wont work for the engine covers as you want those to be smooth - but the rest I think its going to look awesome - aaaaand it will be really easy to touch up any scratches/issues as they happen.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ovlnrkrl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qPWY5yZl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cFaGDatl.jpg)
Decided to turn my attention to the starter & alternator. I'm a little scared of the alternator - but as this bikes only got 44k miles it will be more for painting and less for brush replacement.
The Starter - although the positive cable to the starter was to tight when trying to undo it it moved the power post - well, opening it up there were 2 surprises.
(https://i.imgur.com/Xswikb7l.jpg)
The starter is home to some unwanted guests - not sure how as this is nearly a sealed unit.
(https://i.imgur.com/suAgm2ml.jpg)
Here is whats left of the plastic brush guide thingy
(https://i.imgur.com/vvTZTgWl.jpg)
Does anyone know if you can buy them separately? Rather a waste to part with £20 for that (comes with a brush)
So cleaned up and ready for paint!
(https://i.imgur.com/31Va5ckl.jpg)
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You are about 3 months ahead of me so it's really interesting to see the choices you make and how you overcome the problems.
Do you mind me asking where you got the seat and rear hoop ? They look great - I was toying with whether to try to straighten the line of the top of the frame / tank out as it bugs me.
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It's from Riot in Spain - https://riotmotor.com/seat-bmw-k-series-model-6-for-subframe-loop-long/
Really nice quality - although they are not very responsive on communication so you just need to wait a LOT. Also, import to the UK was just crazy money so I had it shipped to mate in the EU. Thanks Brexit!
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Thank you, I will give them a shout. Im some way of needing it at the moment but getting it sorted will be a big help in planning the rest of it.
And 100% with you on Brexit, I still get angry about it. I was planning to try to move to Finland on retirement - if I could swap my UK passport for a Northern European one id do it tomorrow.
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Yeah, you sort of need the hoop and seat to do any planning for electrics, cutting the frame, etc. And the order took 3 months so you better order now! :)
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I think you need to get a selection of things.
This is hands down the best and fastest set of brushes I've got https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-straight-shank-preparation-brush-set-3-pieces/380jf
But they do not get into corners and gaps very well. The brass set is actually smaller and helps. And then the dremel just to clean up the bits that they cant get to.
But I've now found something all these were struggling with - the fins on the sump - because its deep. I went and got some of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-wire-brush-set-2-pieces/132xg and its helping get into the grooves.
Those brushes look absolutely ideal for the fins, definitely picking some of those up after work.
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Spent some more time making brand new 35 year old parts! Popped over to my mate with the sand blasting cabinate.
(https://i.imgur.com/3RtlTmpl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wGYLTnhl.png?1)
Cleans up well - but its fairly pitted.
(https://i.imgur.com/hbgc6v0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/44wAYY8l.jpg)
He's done the heavy lifting on these parts - they look like new!
(https://i.imgur.com/odxOnfKl.jpg)
My first view of my colour ideas was .... not what I expected. :(
(https://i.imgur.com/OFJxjakl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZufELPSl.jpg)
Got the missus' input and the new color looks a lot better
(https://i.imgur.com/mgPZ8sw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mC19bXA.jpg)
I also did a lathe induction at our local community workshop - and the first thing I did as my solo project was the waterpump seal driver.
(https://i.imgur.com/j1iHarJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L7zzgME.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lbKDpzG.jpg)
I'm now aware this will only work to drive the seal in - I didnt have the depth/height to make it work with the actual shaft - I'll have to use the bolt and washer method (unless someone can actually meassure that up for me :) )
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My first view of my colour ideas was .... not what I expected. :(
(https://i.imgur.com/OFJxjakl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZufELPSl.jpg)
I actually really like that deep copper colour
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I think the camera is kind to it. I think that would have been fine in small doses, but I want the wheels to match and I dont think it would match the gold shock tubes either.
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I love a copper look on a bike. But it wont match gold.
But nowadays everything is fluid, so you could write on it that it identifies as gold or has a golden personality.
I love your work man.
Also Ive been cleaning out the garage, and found a hall sensor with new oem bolts and stuff, a 32t waterpump refurbishing set -new- And some other stuff you mentioned. Shoot me a dm if interested.
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This painting prep phase is doing my head in. This is just taking so long.
So I decided to take a break and go for a ride. Great time to hit the Ardennes just ahead of Victory day.
(https://i.imgur.com/OLgc2wwl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zbeyiaxl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YmDXLhZl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OHIrIvel.jpg)
Anyways, back to reality and the paint should have cured by now. So into the oven it went.
(https://i.imgur.com/irXfeJOl.jpg)
However the filler on the pump cover seemed to not like the heat.
(https://i.imgur.com/z30lpTxl.jpg)
And now its back to blasting that again and re-painting. I think the Simonez paint wins, this enamel with a primer is just balls. :nono2:
Look at how nice this came out. Complete with new sight glass.
(https://i.imgur.com/e1BScB4l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ELpdQSal.jpg)
Also rebuilt the starter motor with the new replacement part. Is it safe to put in a vice and "test" by connecting a battery? :idunno:
(https://i.imgur.com/d24r4ZKl.jpg)
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This painting prep phase is doing my head in. This is just taking so long.
It may take a while but fail to prepare, prepare to fail.
The lower section haS come out nice, what filler did you use on the pump cover? Ive got some big boy metal filler I was hoping to use on the crank cover
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That does look nice with the new sight glass, mine is so discoloured you can’t see anything through it. Can’t wait to pull that out and replace it.
Very interesting to watch your progress in things I will shortly be grappling with. Hit a slight snag in that I cannot get one of the Allen head bolts out of the WP cover. Extracted everything else without sheering or rounding off ( inc eventually the exhaust studs) but the central WP bolt decided to fight back. Awaiting an extractor for it … :laughing4-giggles:
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Hit a slight snag in that I cannot get one of the Allen head bolts out of the WP cover.
Oh Hi there general kenobi.
My name is Kaos -a.k.a vlad the extractor- may i redirect you to: https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=15867.msg140718#msg140718
Its not a major bolt extract post but contains the basics, before you start a thread jack.
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Yikes, sorry to hear! I can say that this BMW's bolts are better quality than KTM's 990s - there are a few times where I was very very nervous with the torque bring required and I swore the bolt snapped with suddenly freeing itself, compared to when I've snapped a few on the KTMs.
I did buy new studs for the internal of the waterpump, and will be using my standard mercury quicksilver extreme grease to everything going back in.
The ones I'm the most nervous about are the hex bolts that bolt the sump to the block. How they didnt thread/snap coming lose I have no idea - I needed my lever bar to undo them.
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Loved reading through the build, I’m at the tear down phase and buying stuff……… I’m going to use moto gadget switches and the m-unit. Would the gsxr levers and throttle work on a 7/8” handlebar with stock front end? I can’t find an easy answer to the aftermarket lever and front master cylinder question.
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My renthal handlebar is 22mm (equivalent to 7/8) which work with the GSXR levers, although I'm not using any of the BMW switchgear I believe it would have worked. I've seen loads of builds using the switchgear on these size bars.
I'm yet to connect up the throttle however, but that should just be a case of making the cable ends.
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Thanks Rusty. Appreciate the reply.
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My renthal handlebar is 22mm (equivalent to 7/8) . . .
7/8 inch is equivalent to 22.3mm. That is why customizers run into trouble fitting BMW 22mm gear onto them. That some advertisers worldwide assert the two measurements are equivalent is a sad fact of retailing. Low 22mm handlebars for BMWs are sold at Flanders (https://www.flanderscompany.com/collections/22-mm).
An important fact to consider during shopping is how much linear space switch gear, brake lever units, phone mounts, radar detectors, pinwheels, and etc. will occupy on the straight run of the bar. Some bars might not have enough. The K75 in my avatar has a Flanders sidecar bar.
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Eeeerm, I thought about being pedantic when I wrote that, but I think if you are struggling with 0.3mm on controls perhaps modifying motorcycles isn't for you. :idunno:
So lets re-phrase that. You should have no problem making them fit. bmp
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Eeeerm, I thought about being pedantic when I wrote that . . . bmp
It wouldn't have been pedantry, it would have been accuracy.
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I checked the specs of my renthal bars, and they are indeed sold as 7/8" and some sites list as 22mm. To be even more accurate they measure 22.19mm on the verniers. I don't know what the accuracy of the calipers are to be accurate. :idunno:
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Maybe there are widespread vernier caliper quality control issues being instigated by a cabal of abrasive pad manufacturers.
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The build has started! After reading all the threads on sealant, its hopefully all in the prep and it holds - I really dont want to come back here because its leaking.
(https://i.imgur.com/3IFuiOEl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vaXsxual.jpg)
The problem with the red is its a little visible.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZoklvJJl.jpg)
But it comes off nicely once set.
(https://i.imgur.com/hCMpvrvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6po0m5Al.jpg)
Waterpump rebuilt and on.
(https://i.imgur.com/wQqstCal.jpg)
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Well that’s very exciting, following along earnestly
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I have a small confession to make. I did not replace the water pump impeller bolt and the spacer. Am I going to die in a fiery crash? The irony is I actually had a new spacer. But it was very nicely pressed into the impeller and I cant think of what difference it would make.
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I did not replace the water pump impeller bolt and the spacer. Am I going to die in a fiery crash? The irony is I actually had a new spacer. But it was very nicely pressed into the impeller and I cant think of what difference it would make.
You'll find out if it makes a difference, don't worry. 112350
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You'll find out if it makes a difference, don't worry. 112350
Hahahaha. That one i just felt deeply. Spend this weekend stressing over finding out on my current build.
All I will say is salad dressing, the rest is up to you.
Drove 3 hours to fix what I had found out.
However mine was caused by a worn out shaft.
Result would still be the same tho.
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Upside is, i got to upgrade to the 32teeth fancy smancy impeller.
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Choke light:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/choke/choke.htm (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/choke/choke.htm)
If riders haven't enough attention span to close the choke without a light bulb prompting, motorcycling probably will be overall more dangerous for them in many other ways than it is inherently.
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Well - I wasn't going to have a choke light, but now I just may.... 112350
Rear main seal done....
(https://i.imgur.com/WeebyQpl.jpg)
Bottom "end" complete, including my bash plate which I hope will protect my paint a little from the front tire sandblasting.
(https://i.imgur.com/yIT4fApl.jpg)
Now just to paint the rest of the motor.
(https://i.imgur.com/aVCRapIl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dZpC8ggl.jpg)
Now all thats left is to paint the front and side covers. Although thats going to get sand blasted too.
I also popped down to makers and got to work on the frame. No
No going back now.
(https://i.imgur.com/F7ATN1Yl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MJwHbqHl.mp4) (https://imgur.com/MJwHbqH)
(https://i.imgur.com/lqusX9ql.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c9fJTCJl.jpg)
A lot "cleaner".
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Bottom "end" complete, including my bash plate which I hope will protect my paint a little from the front tire sandblasting.
damn, nice progress.
When you use a good engine enamel the impact of the front tire's blast wont be that high. Sad part is, its the pump cover that will suffer the most impact, the skid plate sadly doesnt cover the lid.
But now that you've installed it, would the skid plate have or leave enough clearance for crashbars? I personally love the looks of crashbars on a Scrambler and maybe the addition of the plate would be a nice addition.
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Thanks. Yeah, not all perfect but given its very unlikely to get serious long term abuse I think it should hold up.
I need to think about the crash bars.... I'm not even sure I still have them. But, I think you would be able to use a longer bolt (and some rubber spacer to replace the OE) through the bash plate, and then use about 3/4mm spacer on the top mount and they would work. I cant see why not.
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I've looked at the crash bars. The left-hand-side will fit - but I'm trying to figure out how the right worked. I must be missing a part, as the right side first of all is at a bit of an angle at the bottom, and the rear mounting point does not extend to the rear bolt hole on the sump plate. :idunno:
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I've had my wheels and a couple bits over at the professionals.
Sneak peek - https://www.instagram.com/p/DKcwaBNodEO/?igsh=ZTQzeGFjbXdxOWFh
I cant tell you what fantastic service this guy gives - could spend hours with him in his workshop - proper enthusiast.
(https://i.imgur.com/1ZwRuBMl.jpg)
All energised after seeing them I set to work on getting the covers off - what a ballache. Took my eye off the "bolt" for a moment and rounded the head of probably the most inaccessible bolt on the front cover. Thankfully after taking a breather and then smashing a lovely new torx driver onto it it came free
(https://i.imgur.com/Bnu1Qb0l.jpg)
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Looking fabulous. Are the rims a slight golden color .. colour .. now? The images look great.
Have a mate that when tit's go up, he quips "anyone fancy a tea?" and walks away to throttle down and formulate the new attack.
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Its "Green Gold" - has a bit if of a green hue to it. 112350
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This has sealed the deal. I think they look fantastic.
(https://i.imgur.com/yF3CWpll.jpg)
Now what color is the tank going to be? :think
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are the wheels painted or powder coated Rusty?
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I believe its in prismatic powders.
So, full build mode. The motor is done.
(https://i.imgur.com/zfob4Y4l.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Ml2L3myl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/reD7ZBFl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/3IKhcIpl.jpg)
I even duplicated the gasket to keep the OE (I have no idea why, seemed like a good idea at the time)
(https://i.imgur.com/JzQJaVU.jpg)
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That engine is looking kinda sweet!
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Looks lovely!!
Im hoping my seats will arrive next week, then I can start on the frame :)
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The year is 2049 and I finally made some progress.
The crusty alternator.....
(https://i.imgur.com/OZ9aNR0l.jpg)
Looks kinda new... I really hope I didn't break it taking it apart and putting it back together. I was working fine before I f'ed with it.
(https://i.imgur.com/XUwnCrgl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Lolc7nhl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/qyrcATil.jpg)
I also assembled the throttle bodies and airbox. (I should not have crimped the clamps......)
(https://i.imgur.com/wxllgeBl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/8bzhLBRl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/FezZdMkl.jpg)
Because then I started assembling....
(https://i.imgur.com/vEBr9abl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/CGnpFo1l.jpg)
I'm loving the look so far. Got to test fit.....
(https://i.imgur.com/6Nb9R9ml.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/6UCvjyll.jpg)
Fuel tank has not been painted yet. I'm not sure I'm sold on the seat rail being that color......
But the more pressing issue is - the airbox is in the way of the seat rail - which I was not expecting. Now I need to solve this problem.....
(https://i.imgur.com/hWfsCMzl.jpg)
So mistakes made - do not paint before completely assembled and everything fits. And also dont tighten anything thats a 1 use only item. :think
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I also got around to test fitting the forks, and triples.
(https://i.imgur.com/O3Plzgjl.jpg)
But I had not drilled the holes for the handlebar mounts. So off I went to a shared workshop which had a new toy they were setting up
(https://i.imgur.com/tBpr2JJl.jpg)
Its a mill, but why not? Lets get SUPER accurate with these holes :)
(https://i.imgur.com/PZxfeKJl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/CoO2YHul.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/2gKACO9l.jpg)
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Love it
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Looking very nice! Although I must admit it’s made me slightly scared of starting the strip down on mine haha!!
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Productive bank holiday weekend! bmp
To recap, I've got a set of 2014 GSXR 750 front forks, a custom triple set and brake rotors from Hedgehog garage and now I wanted to properly space the front wheel on the GSXR axle, which luckily is the same diameter as the BMW (25mm).
Sadly, when I put the callipers on I found out they were ±6mm out. I tested the spacing by adding some washers and it worked.....
(https://i.imgur.com/V28GhXRl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/GuiVpN1l.jpg)
I thought I had better sort this first, before then trying to figure out the axle spacers. Off I went to the local community workshop and found some 3mm steel sheet, which I then just had to make round. My first dive into "interrupted" cuts - which suck, but after a fair bit of time, I got it round. Interesting series of operations, and I got to learn some new things with the jaws.
(https://i.imgur.com/iPQsyCyl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/NNRigfOl.jpg)
We then thought we'd try the new mill, and went about waaaay overcomplicating finding the perfect centers of the holes..... which all went tits up when the plate bent under the force of the press slightly as we did not support it underneath very well.
(https://i.imgur.com/jOG0LeMl.jpg)
I did the remaining holes manually with a hand drill, and then filed them perfect and I challange anyone to find a set of spacers filling this purpose that has more crafting time than these - ± 7 hours :idunno:
(https://i.imgur.com/qVpvcFSl.jpg)
But job 1 done.
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I was very happy that these seem to do the trick, and perfectly align the rotors within the calipers.
Now I had to create the axle spacers. This was pretty tricky to measure - so I fully expected to be a bit out. But it was 160mm between the stanchion bottoms, the wheel's bearings were 84mm, which left 38mm per side. Working backwards I worked out how far I wanted the axle to sit, and I had the padded side as 23mm. It all made sense in my head.
Starting with some nice 40mm ali I faced it, turned it and then chamfered it, ensuring the outside diameter matched the newer style rubber seals (±34mm) that came with the wheel bearings
(https://i.imgur.com/05OkPrll.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YMK5kPHl.jpg)
and I think they came out great.
(https://i.imgur.com/BGQAm6Sl.jpg)
I went home for the test fit, fully expecting some adjustment/changes were to be made, but they were perfect! 112350
(https://i.imgur.com/4bB5Tp0l.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/gl4nznFl.jpg)
This is without the rubber seals - I added them back in and it all fits like a glove. It will be a bit of a mission fitting the front wheel from now on with spacers on each side by thats okay.
(https://i.imgur.com/KFiFU9xl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/NgrHufYl.jpg)
All thats left to complete this is mount the side stand and the bike is then completely rolling/independant of being on the stand the whole time!
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I really do love following your build mate
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Toying with a few ideas to solve for the airbox and the seat rail, I hit a bit of a speedbump with the design. I really like the way the lines work with this seat rail (I dont like the hump, and I've not got the welding skills to reshape the frame yet), but its making the engine compartment complicated.
(https://i.imgur.com/2GHusXzl.jpg)
So I tried cutting the airbox....
(https://i.imgur.com/YChVNVil.jpg)
which works, but then I had to figure out how to seal it. I tried a 3D modelling program thinking I could 3D print an insert or something
(https://i.imgur.com/mwzQ9okl.jpg)
but ultimately it was taking too much of my time and I dont think it was going to work out - so I bought a custom made intake
(https://i.imgur.com/oFG0xYwl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3ZrASCfl.jpg)
Now I've got another problem - the Airflow meter now sticks out a lot further to the right. So I'm going to relocate that under the seat. Its going to take a bit of routing to do.
And just when the budget wasnt blown enough, I tried cleaning my injectors - and the tool I bought I didnt realise was touching the injector when trying to backflush it. So it broke the little end bits off.
(https://i.imgur.com/cYItPpPl.jpg)
Yay
Tried some AI color editing..... I think I've narrowed it down to the following 2 options:
(https://i.imgur.com/MdwHO0Jl.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/HfRns1xl.png)
Although somehow it became a 75 in the last photo - beats when it was turned into a boxer like this one. :nono2:
(https://i.imgur.com/4Ljx38jl.png)
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The airbox could have been sealed with fiberglass, Sanded and painted.
I do believe there are some options for this airbox mod you currently have, to install it in a 90 degree angle, maybe even with the oem air-intake tubething.
Another option is to delete the airbox :laughing1:
Colour wise,
I personally like the British Racing Green with the gold accents and the brown seat. If the seat were black, then the matte black tank wouldve done the job.
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I've put a lot more of it together rig0ht now. UK viewers will need a VPN to see the photos now - "think of the children". 44271
(https://i.imgur.com/eWIJLXOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q4Vol4Zl.jpg)
Radiator piping (getting the AS3 pipes through the engine cover was fun), radiator etc. I also installed a new SPAL fan with some custom brackets
(https://i.imgur.com/N4NVQMA.jpg)
But - last night I put engine oil in it. I expected to find a leak somewhere, but at least only when the motor ran. This morning I opened the garage to find:
(https://i.imgur.com/sPtEIni.jpg)
:johnny
Its leaking from the oil/water pump weep hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/gQC7hQa.jpg)
Now, I've not run the bike - so I'm struggling to think how its leaking so fast here without the motor running. Looking at photos from the engine sump and oil setup, it would need to flow through the top hole into the oil pump housing. I removed the oil pressure sensor and its bone dry in there. Could it be as simple as a leak on the bottom sump cover by the weep hole? I'm really hoping I dont have to take the water/oil pump assembly off.
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You are some way ahead of me with your project so it's really interesting watching your progress (and now I have a VPN I can see the photos). I have binned the airbox too and found the same custom thing (but still need to paint it). It does make the air metering thingumy poke out to far so be interesting to see how you get over this. Im wondering if the orientation (on its side) of the air metering thing will affect its operation.
Also interesting to see that you have cut off the frame web which originally contained the seat lock, I was trying to find out what sale was attached to it but of all the photos I took before taking the bike apart, none covered that. If you have binned it I guess it can't have been anything important.
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You are some way ahead of me with your project so it's really interesting watching your progress (and now I have a VPN I can see the photos). I have binned the airbox too and found the same custom thing (but still need to paint it). It does make the air metering thingumy poke out to far so be interesting to see how you get over this. Im wondering if the orientation (on its side) of the air metering thing will affect its operation.
Also interesting to see that you have cut off the frame web which originally contained the seat lock, I was trying to find out what sale was attached to it but of all the photos I took before taking the bike apart, none covered that. If you have binned it I guess it can't have been anything important.
Not sure what frame web you’re referring to, but yeah everything the seat lock attached is not required.
I may actually go back to the stock air box and plenum. It’s proving a lot to do to work around that seat rail. If I can somehow shorten it it would be ideal. I want reliability as I will ride this a lot, and I, thinking the OE setup isn’t bad
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Have you used liquid gasket on assembly?
And just to be sure, does the colour of the fluid match any of the juices you've put into it?
Therse also a drainage bolt on the bottom that requires a spacer/gasket ring thingemy.
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I've pulled it apart, and it's definitely the seal. There was even some oil in the water side of the housing. I think I spectacularly messed up the seal install.
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Upside is, you found out (hopefully) before having your engine running. Finding out after would mean your oil would look like a salad dressing.
Cleaning that out is not the best afternoon spender out there