Post by: Mavebrick on September 25, 2024, 11:11:39 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 25, 2024, 12:17:26 PM
The engine seems to be overheating and i did not hear the fan kick on.That problem can be approached using the following methods.
The OEM fans deteriorate from neglect and from their innate construction weaknesses. That fan should be starting up before the overheat bulb lights up.
Poke a dowel at a fan blade and see it you can turn it. Mine seized and yours be also be seized. The wiring of those fans also can deteriorate. For the heat of Houston, the best thing you can do if the fan isn't working is to remove it right now and replace it with a 6.5 inch Spal puller fan. There are a few ways to mount them. One is by modifying the cowl around the fan so the Spal can be inserted within it. This is how to do that. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=7723cab7898133e870bb3e3b68527d0b&topic=4313.msg42722#msg42722) You'll note the Photobucket watermark on each photo at that link. That distraction sometimes arises when accounts are neglected or electrical glitches at Photobucket occur. Use this site's photo server. Another method of mounting the Spal involves making your own bracket. Find that method at this link (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fans/fans.htm). While the radiator is off, spray clean its fins with water.
Drain the the coolant and coolant reservoir and replace the coolant using the BMW method found on p. 17-13.0 in the BMW K75/K100 downloadable from this site. Then idle the engine for 15 minutes out in the sun. In Houston, the fan should start running.
If those tasks don't do the trick, remove the thermostat carefully so the gasket and o-ring aren't damaged, put it in a pot of water and bring the water to boil. The thermostat should be opening a 185ºF and continuing until fully open.
If none of the remedies or tests above cure the problem, the problem lies within the coolant temperature sensor behind the radiator, the temperature sensing relay, or the radiator itself is clogged, but the fan and coolant quality are the usual suspects.
Post by: Mavebrick on September 25, 2024, 01:45:42 PM
Post by: Laitch on September 25, 2024, 02:23:11 PM
Do you think drilling a hole in the thermostat, assuming it is working, can help the issue as a stop gap till fan issue is resolved (assuming fan is shot)?Heck no! You must have meant "assuming it is not working," because If the thermostat is working, the engine is getting the coolest water available—without the brisk motion a fan, or wind from the motorcycle moving along the road. Drilling one hole wouldn't do squat to help cooling and drilling the valve so it looks like a salt shaker would send metal bits around to create cooling tube clogs. Ruining a working thermostat should be avoided. Get cracking, check the fan and check in here. We ready to weep in consolation. Assumption just won't help at this stage.
Post by: frankenduck on September 25, 2024, 05:22:10 PM
You did not damage the engine if that light came on. That light comes on at 232F and beyond that, just like a car, the radiator cap will blow coolant all over your right foot at 248F and you still have not damaged the engine.
More here:
https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/tempsensor/tempsensor.htm
Post by: Laitch on September 25, 2024, 06:24:40 PM
That light comes on at 232F and beyond that, just like a car, the radiator cap will blow coolant all over your right foot at 248F and you still have not damaged the engine.Don't let loss of coolant and a scalded foot keep you from damaging your engine! Eventually an irate and sirloin- or taco-hungry commuter behind you during your steaming crawl along five lanes of Houston's finest concrete will put a round through it for good measure. If you carry a colorful pennant on a telescopic pole and extended it when you finally need to stop and cool down your no-pressure version of a pressurized coolant system, it could serve as the target.
112350
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 26, 2024, 07:10:34 AM
Check the fan and when doing the replacement with the Spal do a soak, inside and out, of the radiator in white vinegar for an hour or two followed by a good rinse.
A complete system flush is also a good idea. Who knows what kind of water was used in the system over the years.
Post by: Laitch on September 26, 2024, 08:11:50 AM
The cooling fins on your radiator have nearly 30 years worth of dirt and insect life restricting air flow.Save the rinse water! Exotic insects carrying gawdknowswhatall have been migrating northward from the EUM, Latin America and the Caribbean for decades. Inquire at UTHealth Houston if there's a researcher there that's interested in examining the contents. You might play a part in successfully stalling the development a disease vector, or in discovery of a viable source of cheap protein to ensure the future of personkind.
Post by: sooprvylyn on September 26, 2024, 10:09:55 AM
Its a good idea to confirm its the fan before you order the spal. You can easily see if the fan works by unplugging it and just jumping the 2 pins in the connector to your battery directly, doesnt really matter which pins you conect to which poles, the fan will spin either way, just might spin backwards. If it doesnt spin, the fan is broke...and time to order a spal. If it spins, its something wrong w your eng temp relay.
If its the fan, go ahead and drain the coolant, and remove the radiator. While you have the radiator off, check that the oem fan hasnt drilled into the radiator. Not sure if this is common on k75, but its really common on k1100. Might as well check everything so you ca order everything you need together.
This is a pretty easy repair, and if you have the new fan and mounting materials, and some electrical tools to swap the oem wire connector to the spal fan, its like a 1-2 hour job. Remember, the fan is a pulling fan, so its pulling air in from the front of the radiator.
Post by: frankenduck on September 26, 2024, 10:45:11 AM
https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/fans/fans.htm
Post by: Mavebrick on September 27, 2024, 05:19:01 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on September 27, 2024, 06:48:33 PM
Thank you all! I’m going to have to get to this soon. Will let y’all know if it’s the fan or what I discover. If fan is working, can I just install a manual switch so I can turn it on as desired?Lots of people here have done just that.
Post by: frankenduck on September 27, 2024, 11:44:41 PM
JM02.
Post by: daveson on September 28, 2024, 10:02:59 PM
If fan is working, can I just install a manual switch so I can turn it on as desired?
No, I think so not.
Your brick has a problem that wants to be fixed. Adding an option won't fix the problem. The fan is supposed to come on before the warning light comes on, that is, at a lower temperature. That then cools the engine down until the fan turns off, then the cycle repeats. Therefore the temperature light should really never come on, if all is well. The temperature light has only come on once with my brick, when I unplugged the spinning fan on a hot day, just to see if the light would come on shortly afterwards.
You want to find out why the fan isn't turning on before the temperature warning light comes on.
Post by: sooprvylyn on September 30, 2024, 07:54:26 PM
You can install an override switch AFTER you learn the real problem and resolve it if you like. Many put fan override switches on Ks. I used to because i
Post by: Mavebrick on October 11, 2024, 10:41:00 PM
Post by: Mavebrick on October 19, 2024, 11:48:02 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 19, 2024, 02:10:25 PM
Any el cheapo radiator fans from autozone or something? Also do you need to remove the gas tank to get the radiator and fan off to replace fan or you don’t need to?An el cheapo fan is not what you want for that job. A 6.5" Spal puller fan is what will keep temperature reliably stable.
Remove the tank. You also need to remove the debris from the fins and core of the radiator with back-spray from a hose while it's off the bike. If you intend to remove and test the thermostat, remove it carefully so you don't damage the ring gasket around the perimeter of the flange.
Post by: Mavebrick on October 19, 2024, 03:56:16 PM
Post by: sooprvylyn on October 19, 2024, 04:45:32 PM
Thank you Laitch, appreciate it! I’ll get the spal fan. Do you have to drain the coolant to remove and swap out the thermostat?
You'll need to drain it to remove the radiator to swap the fan anyway.
If you plan to replace the thermostat, might as well replace the rubber gasket too. Sometimes you can get them together.
Post by: frankenduck on October 19, 2024, 10:21:14 PM
Are there any other options besides the spal fan? Any el cheapo radiator fans from autozone or something? Also do you need to remove the gas tank to get the radiator and fan off to replace fan or you don’t need to?
Fans are not particularly sophisticated so you could probably get away with using a cheap fan but the Spal fan is a proven quality solution for Ks so it would save you a lot of searching as well as peace if mind since it's a good product.
Post by: Mavebrick on October 28, 2024, 12:08:59 PM
Also i see a random hose to nowhere probably someone disconnected it in the past. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
For the heating issue do people reroute the fuel return away from back of radiator? Or do they use insulation? Would any autozone fuel line work for the fuel return line if i wanted to replace it?
For adding a manual switch how do i wire to the two wire existing wires connected to fan to have bothmanual and automatic fan switching? Where is the ground located?
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Post by: Laitch on October 28, 2024, 12:28:36 PM
Finally got coolant drained and radiator off. I have several questions. The coolant was dirty and tried to “flush” it pouring water through a few times. The overflow still has the old gunky coolant in. Do i need to siphon that out? Does the overflow coolant ever get sucked back into the system?It's good that you're cleaning out that mess. Clean the overflow tank throughly. Here's an explanation of how the system operates. It's from the Haynes classic Brick manual.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/4/1601-281024122748.jpeg)
Post by: frankenduck on October 28, 2024, 03:10:40 PM
Post by: Kaos on October 29, 2024, 01:36:07 PM
On top of all the mentioned fixes problem solevers etc.
And finding gunk in your coolant you might also to do the following:
Remove the coolant pump cap from the front and also check the situation there.
Gunk tends to heap up there, it also allows for better drainage.
White wine vinegar is an absolute good option to use for rinsing, but mix it with demineralized water 250ml to 750ml
Check the fan for obstruction/resistance.
While the system is drained you can check the electrics by removing the temp sensor and heating it with a heat gun (watch your fingers) or by sticking it in boiling water.
De keep in mind that rinsing works best on a heated cycle so you must ride with it.
For illustration purposes:
Screenshot_2024-10-29-18-44-02-88_99c04817c0de5652397fc8b56c3b3817.jpg (35.79 kB . 327x576 - viewed 421 times)
Post by: Laitch on October 29, 2024, 05:30:28 PM
I am not the biggest brick fan fan.Eat more chocolate, bananas, pizza, and sausage; drink more beer and exercise less. Keep at it and you'll get there eventually—maybe the biggest fan fan ever! 112350 You'll need to upgrade to stronger suspension springs front and rear.
Post by: Mavebrick on October 30, 2024, 01:29:05 AM
Post by: Kaos on October 30, 2024, 02:12:23 AM
Eat more chocolate, bananas, pizza, and sausage; drink more beer and exercise less. Keep at it and you'll get there eventually—maybe the biggest fan fan ever! 112350 You'll need to upgrade to stronger suspension springs front and rear.
:laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Mavebrick on November 04, 2024, 10:58:20 AM
Line connected to the battery directly with a switch and fuse?
Post by: Laitch on November 04, 2024, 01:00:13 PM
The fan needs to be wired into the temperature sensing switch circuit to run the engine optimally. A battery switch option can lead to overheating from not operating the fan enough, to poor engine performance from operating the fan too much. The engine can be forgiving of inept operation but not indefinitely tolerant. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Mavebrick on November 04, 2024, 01:39:59 PM
Post by: frankenduck on November 04, 2024, 02:05:11 PM
Relay wiring:
85 - Ground
86 - VIO/YEL wire to original fan
30 - In-line fuse to battery
87 - Power out to new fan
Post by: Laitch on November 04, 2024, 02:21:50 PM
The fan will start and stop as necessary—no problem. Don't let that bother you either, that usually means the system is either working appropriately, or there's isn't enough coolant in the system. The main thing is to have clean radiator fins with relatively fresh coolant in the radiator and expansion tank, and refill the system according to BMW's instructions. I change coolant every couple of years but long life coolant is promoted to last around five years.
The fuel tank can get hot to the touch. You can always add a fuel cooler that could decrease the fuel temperature a little. There are a few threads here concerning that. Verify you have insulation under the floor of the tank—stuff like Reflectix that can be purchased at Home Depot. There is a document concerning heat management on the site and even more threads concerning insulation to mitigate temperature swings. MartinW, a member here that lives in a paradisical hell below the equator—has taken several successful steps to cool things down.
Post by: Kaos on November 04, 2024, 03:34:10 PM
I bought an aftermarket 12V, 80 watt fan. Seems like it pulls 6ish amps. Is that going to be a problem connected to the line the factory fan was on or is it better suited for a separate
Line connected to the battery directly with a switch and fuse?
That should be the same as THE OEM fan, and about 6.6amps. With a 7.5 amp fuse in place you should be solid if it doesnt abnormally drain when starting up.
Looks like a solid replacement. You could directly connect it to the OEM connector with these specs without having the joy of messing with the relay.
If you havent filled up the coolant yet you could still test it with the sensor in hot water and see if it starts and when it starts, it doesnt pop your fuse.
if i remember correctly it should be starting up at 90 celcius (194F )
I do strongly recommend testing it.
Post by: Mavebrick on November 05, 2024, 09:22:34 PM
Post by: frankenduck on November 05, 2024, 09:25:34 PM
If you identify the wire colors to each connector it makes it much easier for us to help you.
Post by: Mavebrick on November 05, 2024, 10:34:55 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 05, 2024, 11:59:12 PM
Post by: Mavebrick on November 06, 2024, 01:15:15 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 06, 2024, 07:46:30 AM
Post by: Laitch on November 06, 2024, 08:28:16 AM
I don’t see a specific heated handlebar switch in instrument cluster. Am i missing something?You're missing heated handlebar grips; they're an option at extra cost. No switch is supplied because your Brick apparently didn't have heated grips at original purchase.
Post by: Mavebrick on November 06, 2024, 09:59:18 AM
Post by: sooprvylyn on November 19, 2024, 09:38:10 PM
1. Put a reflective thermal tank blanket under the tank
2. As mentioned above, install a fuel cooler.
I've been looking into a cooler myself for next summer. I'll let you know if I find a good option. The 8" dual pass finned ones that seem to be good fit seem to be missing from the market these days.
In any case, you'll be good w the heat thing til at least April or May now anyway.
Post by: Mavebrick on November 27, 2024, 03:01:54 PM
Post by: Mavebrick on November 30, 2024, 12:18:05 PM
Post by: Past-my-Prime on November 30, 2024, 12:57:34 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 30, 2024, 02:27:41 PM
I just realized i might have just connected the hose for the water and left the vapor vent stub connected to nothing. Is this a problem?One problem could possibly be your developing the habit of considering that the engineering elements of your motorcycle are unimportant if providing for their function is inconvenient for you. Another problem could be fuel vapor expansion issues, such as fire hazard caused by fuel dripping from the fuel tank drain stub onto the johnny blanket then off the blanket onto a hot engine.
If there are any adverse effects this negligence, they will likely be revealed in the fullness of time—as usual—so you're good to go. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Kaos on December 01, 2024, 11:17:20 AM
That stuff sticks so damn well and reduces potential heat reaching the gastank.
Now for K-bikes there's a whole lot inbetween the engine and the gastank that makes you not having to worry from the actual engine heat. But maybe the fact that you have a Black gastank in the sun..
Post by: Mavebrick on December 02, 2024, 03:38:29 PM
Post by: Mavebrick on December 04, 2024, 11:40:37 AM