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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: Lbxpdx on September 04, 2024, 10:16:32 AM
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I just started at a new school and during lunch I noticed an S for pretty cheap while looking on CL. Price was low as it wasn't running, but I went to check it anyway. A local shop was closing up and this bike had been knocked over by a truck, so it has some fairing issues on the right side. After some chatting and the owner grabbing a jumper battery, the bike started up and ran smooth, but we noticed the radiator had cracked near an inlet on the right hand side. He was cool enough to put it in the back of his van and deliver to my house, super lucky. 30k miles, a stack of receipts, maybe 2k miles on the tires, the oil is still golden and the seat is nicer and comfier than the one on my K75RT. I was originally going to buy it for parts, but now I think it may be a minor project that will keep me cool during the hot days. I was surprised at how much lighter it feels than my RT.
With regard to the radiator, I am going to try to fix the crack prior to ordering another one, unless someone can convince me that it is a fools errand. The crack is at an inlet right wear it meets the body of the radiator.
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Sounds like a find, I'd try fixing the crack if it works you're good if not nothing lost. Couple RT's I've ridden really made me appreciate my S.
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Fools errand? It’s nearly half of the inlet.
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I say go for it! You've lost nothing but a bit of time if it doesn't work.
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Stokester just replaced his radiator. Be worth messaging him for parts source and hints. There's a thread with his fan drilling a hole in his. Cheers
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On a car radiator I successfully used JB Weld on a leaking joint like that. Your results may vary, this is an option and not a recommendation. I cleaned the joint with rubbing alcohol, did some light sanding to both clean and make some "topography" for the adhesive to bond to, wiped it clean again, mixed, applied and let it sit overnight. If you're in a cold garage, use a heat gun or blow dryer, or put a light bulb on it overnight to help the cure... check the directions for cure time and temps needed. A fresh kit will perform better than one sitting around for years in the garage.
Note: the kind of metal the joint is manufactured from, pressure and temp thermal cycling will affect bond strength and durability. If in doubt, buy new.
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If you end up needing to replace then get a K75 naked, C or S radiator. The K75RT uses the K100 radiator which is larger and will not fit in the S fairing.