MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: hopperdredgbill on June 19, 2024, 06:18:36 PM
-
Hey guys,
Newbie here, I'm an old airhead guy who had a K75S hidden in the garage. I just picked up a K100RS for super cheap. Guy got it on a trade didn't know anything about beemers, said it ran for 30 seconds and quit. I got it home ($400 lighter) tightened the neg battery lead and plugged in the fuel pump (after flushing the tank) and she ran like sewing machine! Only issue is the clutch will not disengage?? I ran the clutch adjustment bolt in, thinking the plates may have stuck, but no joy. I mean it's got plenty of clutch you just gotta push it a bit to get it rolling before dropping it into gear. I've had barn find airheads where the clutch plates had rusted badly, I'm thinking this is the case (it sat for a couple years), but was wondering if anyone here had a similar experience.
Bill
-
You've likely already ruled out the clutch hand lever's pivot being jammed, the clutch cable's being jammed within the cable housing, the cable's being broken, the clutch arm's being corroded to its pin, or a failure within the old-style clutch release rod/piston assembly. The only other wrinkle is that many K75 Bricks have a clutch cable-actuated side stand release. If that lever seized up—unlikely as that might seem, there would be problems.
If anybody would know about clutch assemblies seizing up, it would be you, judging from your description. Please keep us posted; it should be interesting.
-
Yea, everything operates smoothly, it just doesn't disengage the clutch. Looks like a teardown is in order.
I got my last airhead (81 R100RT in smoke green!) out of a barn in Craftsbury VT! Friend of a friends husband passed away. I grew up in East Montpelier and we ride down that way often to visit family. GREAT riding in VT!
-
This is an easy fix, you don't need to tear it down.
I've had this problem when I got a heavy Vulcan cruiser. I thought this heavy thing will be impossible to push free, but it did free up. I put it in third gear (can't remember, just guessing, but so that the wheel turns rather than skids) then pulled in the clutch and pushed it, the back wheel probably turned 1 mm. Pushed it again, it moved a tiny bit more. Did it again. Did it again. Did it again. Every time it moved a bit more, getting easier each time. Then pop, I could push it as if it felt like it was in neutral.
-
If everything else has checked out okay as you have asserted, give this a try (https://www.k100-forum.com/t6227-k100rs-off-the-road-10-years-clutch-siezed-any-ideas#71247).
-
I've also fixed this problem on a brick, in a not so safe way. Don't remember if I push started it, I think I started it in first on the centre stand. If the other ways don't help, try that. Get ready, hold on, push it off the centre stand. Your riding in first gear, pull in the clutch, leave it pulled in, accelerate (hard) back off, accelerate, back off, repeat, all of a sudden you will lose power, then release the clutch, problem solved, ride home, you've got a bargain, try to keep the smile off your face, it won't be easy.
-
Thanks guys, I will try the "break free" option before tearing the bike down. I'm certain that the clutch plate has bonded to the flywheel. I have to say pulling the tranny on my airheads is FAR easier than pulling a K tranny with ABS! At 37K it will need the splines done, but that can wait till winter!
-
I have to say pulling the tranny on my airheads is FAR easier than pulling a K tranny with ABS!
That's the cost of inattention protection, that is, if the ABS functions. :laughing4-giggles:
-
Another thing that might help, I tied the pulled in clutch lever to the handlebar for the few days before I got to it, so that the pressure is removed from the clutch plate.
-
It broke free yesterday, I believe it was because I ran the adjustment bolt all the way in, then reset it to where it should be. Starting it in the garage it still would not disengage, but as soon as I rode it and applied a bit of power it immediately broke free and operates perfectly!
A bunch of rubber bits need replacing, and it needs a good cleaning! Also going to need bar risers (I put 1" risers on my K75S) cause I'm getting old.
Thanks for the insight guys, see you on the road!