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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Ingo on April 13, 2024, 10:16:11 PM
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Searching the interwebs I found someone somewhere used a VW sender to fix a level sender. Could not find that again. Ordered one from Amazon, slaughtered it to fix my broken one and it worked out quite well!
The "Donor" part is VW Beetle 1947-2003 : OE Number 113919049D or 113-919-049-D
Took this sender and mine apart, replaced resistor board, also resoldered the low-level switch contact, treated with Dremel and sanding disk, put everything back together and BINGO, works!
If the picts show up you can see how the resistor wire on the old one is all broken up and also what the new one looks like...
Price $ 18 vs $280+
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Wow! Thank you for posting this!
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very clever. well done icon_cheers
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Very useful information, @Ingo. I should mention that the red wire looks like PVC insulated wire. If so, that insulation will harden, crack and disintegrate very quickly because it can't remain submerged in gasoline for long periods. You should be using PTFE insulated wire in this application.
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Just as a side note, the rubber O-ring at the base can fail to seal and leak, due to being compressed for nearly forty years. I had that problem. I replaced it with a VW O-ring. I think it was a Golf (Rabbit in the US)
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The red wire is meant to be inside the tank, so i think it'll be OK, also the wire is routed such that it will not touch any metal, should be fine. Even though it's easy enough to fix later if needed. O-ring: I i just added fuel resistant sealant. Today i installed a li-ion battery, hopefully it's lifespan is better than the AMG I had, it only lasted 2 seasons. Did a shake down ride, 15miles, no complaints, but need to advance timing a bit, is a bit weak at higher rpms.
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The red wire is meant to be inside the tank, so i think it'll be OK, also the wire is routed such that it will not touch any metal, should be fine. Even though it's easy enough to fix later if needed. O-ring: I i just added fuel resistant sealant. Today i installed a li-ion battery, hopefully it's lifespan is better than the AMG I had, it only lasted 2 seasons. Did a shake down ride, 15miles, no complaints, but need to advance timing a bit, is a bit weak at higher rpms.
I have the same situation with my decrepit sending unit. Can I ask how you got the old resistor board off it's mount? I was afraid to pry too hard as it might break, not like that would matter at this point.
I know this thread is pretty old, but thanks in advance for any input.
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https://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender
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^ - That's as good an explanation as I could do, only it's already there....
Good luck with it, should be relatively easy.
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BTW, by turning the wire-wound resistor board one can reverse the function of the sensor and use an aftermarket gauge...