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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Atabeach on March 30, 2024, 05:31:57 PM
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Ok fellas, I’ve acquired some side cases that are painted and have two rubber protector thingies on the leading lower edge and bottom outside edge. These cases have keyed locks…The rubber was installed with some sort of double stick tape. 1) has anyone had success painting cases ( flat black would be my choice) 2) what tape did BMW use or similar…TIA.
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Steps to success from the duck's point of view (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1106.msg10675#msg10675).
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Thanks guys! Im going with the Bedliner stuff for durability!
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. . . stiff for durability!
:think
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Ok so I’m not happy with the finish of bedliner paint…Can I re visit Paint codes? When I search the VIN # for my 1994 K75BA it shows Mystic rot ( red )…. I really thought it was Marakesh because it’s a darker red…. I just meed touch up and possibly rattle can for cases….VIN # WB 1057102ro135158.
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Ford Red Fire/Fire Red paint is a very good match. It's what I used for touch up on my Mystic red K75RT.
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Ford Fire Red! Thanks Griff…ok so now the rubber thingies….the black roof cement stuff didn’t dry. 4 days. I removed the tar ( complete mess)….does anyone know what the original double stick tape was? Or anything else that would stick to the rubber? I’ve test tried silicone and poly based “Phenoseal” caulk. ..it seemed to peel away from rubber rather easily….PS not in the mood to do this again…. TIA.
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I have my bedliner professionally done by a Line-X shop. Their product is light years better than the rattle can stuff. They use a special dual "paint" nozzle that mixes the resin and hardener while spraying.
You can't tell the texture from the picture but this guy had his entire bike done in yellow Line-X:
(https://i.imgur.com/wPo1Lwn.jpeg)
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It's possible to get catalyzed bed liner in a rattle can. Amazon search 2k bedliner. It costs around $20-25 per can. It's a special kind of rattle can that has a seal on the bottom that needs to be broken to allow the catalyst to mix with the paint. It also all has to be used up within like a day because it will set in the can after the seals are broken. I used it to line the underside of my seat pan, underside of my rear fender, and underside of my engine spoiler. It's exactly like the stuff your pro uses and rhe finish looks really nice.
To OP...yes, mystic red is a dark red color
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It's possible to get catalyzed bed liner in a rattle can. Amazon search 2k bedliner. It costs around $20-25 per can. It's a special kind of rattle can that has a seal on the bottom that needs to be broken to allow the catalyst to mix with the paint. It also all has to be used up within like a day because it will set in the can after the seals are broken. I used it to line the underside of my seat pan, underside of my rear fender, and underside of my engine spoiler. It's exactly like the stuff your pro uses and rhe finish looks really nice.
To OP...yes, mystic red is a dark red color
If you put the unused paint in the freezer after you mix it, it will stay usable for at least a week. When you take it out, heat the can under warm running water until the can feels warm and you're ready to go. I have kept 2K clear coat for two weeks that way.
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Very good to know. Thanks for the tip
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Ford Fire Red! Thanks Griff…ok so now the rubber thingies….the black roof cement stuff didn’t dry. 4 days. I removed the tar ( complete mess)….does anyone know what the original double stick tape was? Or anything else that would stick to the rubber? I’ve test tried silicone and poly based “Phenoseal” caulk. ..it seemed to peel away from rubber rather easily….PS not in the mood to do this again…. TIA.
3M has the best double-stick tapes I've used. However, go to an industrial supply house like R.S. Hughes, Grainger, etc. and ask the person at the counter what they'd recommend. Strong and thin. The 3M tapes they offer are better than the Home Depot stuff.
Wish I had the rest of the roll, I'd send you some: a 3M sales rep gave me a sample roll once of the double stick they use to hold aircraft wings together, no rivets. I'd moved into a house where the previous very non-mechanically inclined owner locked the bars on the garage door, then hit the garage door opener button. The steel on the center structure pulled away from the door skin. Before calling in a repair guy I tried that tape, and it's still holding great after 20 years. There have been wild Central Texas temperature extremes on that bond line, over that time period!
Also, clean the heck out of both surfaces before you try to bond again. You might even light sand after using isopropyl alcohol, to put a fine texture into the surfaces, to allow more grip. Not too much texture, but a bit. Plastics are tricky, many are tough to bond.