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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Ingo on November 16, 2023, 05:35:35 PM
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Engine would quit as it warms up. Left me stranded within a few miles, reliably. After checking fuel pressure, replacing fuel filter, checking O2 Sensor and everything else I could think of I finally figgered out the ECU read-out: Often referenced Pin1 is nowhere identified, so having 2 wires on an outside pin (one goes to temp light other to ECU) I didn't think that could be Pin1 to be grounded, wouldn't want to cause a short there. Eventually figgered out that this IS the GROUND for said light (i.e. Pin1). It - and another couple lights- are on constant "plus" and activated by being grounded when needed. So now I found Pin1 and was able to read out the ECU: Hall sensor code. Replacement is crazy expensive, so another way had to be found.
Ordered 2 HME101 from "Capacitor Store" thru Amazon, $23.75 each. Delivery was reasonable, about 1 week. Cut wires of sensor plate, cut "ears" of old sensors, ground rivets of flat side until flat, knocked out the rest and had clean holes for mounting new. Left wiring on engine. Installed new sensors to plate and added 3mm screws with nuts because the brass rivets on the new sensors don't seem trustworthy. Had to cut back the sides of the screw heads because they extended into the space that the rotor runs in. Any metal filings from that are attracted in the new sensor, need to be cleaned out, compressor air took care of that. Soldered wires to original wiring with plenty of shrink tubing of proper sizes.
Had a hard time routing wires to prevent chafing on the additional nuts and ended up with one of the clamps not re-installed. Positioned sensor disk at previous marking and started her up. Immediate start and good run. Made a fine adjustment and tightened ignition down and replaced cover. Ran engine until fan kicked in, beautiful run all thru temp range. Now I just have to put the bike back together.
Bottom line: Instead of $ 800+ (w/tx) and forever wait, replacement sensors can be found for reasonable price and not necessarily from China via slow boat. Just takes some fiddlin work...
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Great write up, I knew it was possible to refurbish (?) the HES but hadn't heard of anyone actually doing it. This needs to be archived!
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I've done it a couple times for other guys' bikes. It's not a hard job but I do have electronics tools and training,
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An identification of diagnostic connector pins' functions and wire colors is offered in this post at K100-forum (https://www.k100-forum.com/t938-k100rs-throttle-position-switch-info#10467).
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I figgered the diagnostic plug out by studying wiring diagrams...
RBM: Not hard but finding the right part and obtaining it from a US source needed some work.
112350
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I figgered the diagnostic plug out by studying wiring diagrams...
You made that clear, Ingo. I posted the information for those who may run across this thread and could need more specific information.
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RBM: Not hard but finding the right part and obtaining it from a US source needed some work.
If you mean some sort of readout, just get a 12volt LED pilot light at the local auto parts store. Solder some wire to it, then connect the negative from the LED to the center of the diagnostic plug and the positive from the LED to positive on the battery.
Switch on the ignition and and count the flashes.
Here is a link to the flash decoder: https://www.kforum-tech.com/forum-area/__Files/electrical/PDF/Motronic%20Fault%20Codes.pdf
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The ECU read-out I did via the temp light. After putting it all back together and test ride I found the ABS effed and did it's error reading via a LED set-up that I had laying around: 2 LED's in anti-parallel with a resistor in series, this doesn't care about polarity, one or the other comes on... Was kind of a cool idea to use that. :johnny
Laitch: And thanks for posting that link, it's likely to help someone...