MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: matjas on July 19, 2023, 01:01:41 PM
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Hello everyone,
Came back after maybe 4 year break and after having sold my previous brick I never thought I would ever go the same route again. With a couple of other bikes in the garage I really have stuff to sit on but there you go. Old and stupid :laughing1:
The bike was imported into Poland from Germany: drove there by an internet tidetogether app with some total strangers and rode back 1200kms on wheels and no big problem on the way - maybe 'cept a slight overheating. What I am puzzled with is how far the temp needle is moving during normal ride - from almost half and a bit over half to almost immediate move to the right /2 o'clock/ when the fan comes on. NEVER goes to the red zone.
The bike is declared to be 35kkm on the odo with some TUV papers from the past years German MOTs - it shows annual mileage of less than 1000km p.a. - the bike in general looks clean. COULD have sat on the rims for some time as the tires /even though with deep thread/ are more than 10 years of age and wobble AF. Looking at various places in the bike I cannot really decide whether this is the real mileage, have I been cheated upon or what. More of it later. The bodywork and fairings, paint, screen, seat, wheels, discs - all look pristine.
It starts and runs and drives great, no ABS errors, breaks good also. Discs with no rims, pads great. It had more than 0.6l more oil in it but even when parked on the side stand it doesnt give a slightest whiff of smoke. Shifts nice, if I give it a moment before going into first gear the gear goes in silently. All gears up and down no problem. MAYBE slightly notchy when really heated up.
The only thing that does not work is the radio remote. Connected solid but no action there.
These are good things. BUT :D
Now I am in the process of looking here and there and doing what needs to be done to have the bike fully 'my way'. I will try to split it into points to have the discussion more organised.
1. there was WATER only in the cooling system 177381 and upon taking away the fairings it became also obvious the rad is partially blocked by dead insects, feathers and grass seeds. This could have taken maybe 1/4 of the flowthrough. Maybe - I dont remember my old 1100 ever switching the rad fan. Here it is enough to stop for 2 minutes maybe. On the + side the fan does the job just right.
The water in the system was misty but no oil - I would say there was a good amount of freely floating mineral deposits. The inlet into the rad has some whitish gunk on it and the sieve in the cap was partially blocked with limestone. I am in the process of decalcing the system with some Prestone rad cleaner. I will see what will come out when the bike is cold.
2. there are traces of silicone between the gbox and the engine - not factory affair I reckon - so gearbox could have been out - at this mileage this seems very strange;
3. the oil/water pump also has traces of solicone around it - no leaks though. question arises however HOW this has been put together. are all of the channels open to flow as needed as the mechanical inclination of the previous two owners gives me goosebumps;
4. there is VERY visible silicone layer behind the camshaft chain cover and obviously around the valve cover. there is a little weeping from the left bottom corner of the camshaft chain cover where it joins the valve cover - I need to get rid of this :nono2:
5. there is also a slight oily wetting under the rear of the airbox - I THINK it is coming from the engine breather that seems to live in there. Possible?
Now - all of it was discovered when I changed the final drive, gearbox and engine oils... Question is - can I take off the front cover with the new oil in or will it start flowing through the front?
Really have something in me against draining and refilling what has been drained :(
The bike is slightly banking right when I let the handlebars loose - but as far as I remember this was also the case with my previous brick. No play in the rear drive affair to speak of.
Throttle bodies were far out, corrected already while the bike was mixing the rad cleaner coolant - but this will have to be done again when I have checked the valve clearances. Hope no big job in there.
On the good side of things - the fuel tank is not leaking. The previous one developed clutch, pump and fork leaks with subsequent clutch slip. As I had other bikes to ride I sold it for good money as it was really pristine otherwise.
Any ideas, hints are more than welcome :D and well :D welcome again :D seems like this one is going to stay little longer :D
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Okay, first the radiator. If it were my bike I would finish your flushing, and then remove the radiator and soak it in a pan of white vinegar both inside and out. That will dissolve any remaining mineral deposits inside and soften the dead insects caught in the fins.
Rinse well with clean water, and flush the insects/dirt, etc. from the back of the radiator to push it all out the front. This will make a huge improvement in cooling. When you refill, use distilled water and any long life coolant. All modern coolants are compatible with aluminum alloy engines and radiators now so you don't need the ultra special BMW stuff. I use either Prestone or Peak Long Life coolant in 60:40 water/coolant mix and change it every two years.
The silicone around the timing chain cover at the valve cover is probably to seal where three case parts come together with a less than perfect fit on some bikes. If you don't use it, you will get a little seepage from the lower front corner of the valve cover.
That the engine and transmission have been separated is probably so the clutch splines could be lubed or the clutch o-ring replaced. These are both jobs that I would expect to be needed on a bike as old as yours regardless of the k's on the clock.
As far as pulling to the right, I think they all do that, at least every one I had did it.
Last, spend some time doing a good flush on the brake system with fresh DOT 4.
Looks like you have a nice Brick. Good luck and enjoy it.
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Is draining the oil necessary to seal the front of the engine? Cam chain cover needs to be off.
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There might be a little oil left in the cover, but the bulk of the engine oil drains back to the sump which is below the timing chain cover.
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thanks for the reply and sorry for the previous somehow unfinished post ended with 'YOU' - seems like not all has been posted from the phone. now corrected.
seems like you might be 100% right with the radiator out affair. I reverse cleaned it with compressed air, then thick engine cleaner and copious amounts of hot water, even vacuumed the remaining stuff - NO - you still cant see through the fins in most of the crossection. when I take it off I will do the pickly stuff with white common vinegar. Are you sure this will not damage the paint or the internals?
word of worry about the timing cover - want to check the timing chain - is there a way to do it? measure the stretch? how much the tensioner is out /in honda that is the way/? while there I want to have it all done.
need to take the wheels off to have the rubber replaced so I will jack up the front a bit more while the rear wheel is missing - I think this will move the oil level back a bit - well the cover drip is something I will have to live with. I think I will take the pump off as well and see how the sealing has been done. clean it all and reseal the whole thing.
this is my XXXX bike in my riding life and realy giving these old lumps a proper once over is a LOT of work! i just forget when buying - then the back hurts :D
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The vinegar won't hurt the radiator. I have done overnight soaks with no bad effect. You can mix the vinegar 1 part water to 1 part vinegar to make it more gentle.
I don't think you need to be concerned about the timing chain. They are good for at least 160,000km. Wear in the chain is checked in the way the chain bends to the side. I don't know how to describe the test, and can't remember what the limit is. Something like 2cm at 8cm.
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The soak goes on.
I need to take the cover off to reseal it anyway so at least I will have a look at the guides. This will give me some idea on the actual mileage I think.
I will post some pics.
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For reference, here is the BMW K1100 shop manual:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/shopmanuals/BMW_K1100_LT_RS_Repair_Manual.pdf
As TMG noted, there should be no need to worry about the timing chain at only 35K km.
When you take the engine covers off you'll want a drip pan underneath to catch the residual oil that drips out.
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issue is if it is the 35 the German guy was quoting. looks like it bloody isnt.
I measured the clearances and it is a disaster in the making. I have no idea HOW on Earth this bike managed to get me back home and is still running...
Dimensions given in .mm in pairs from front of the engine to back L to R essentially, measured at the the first GO gauge:
INTAKE:
0.09 - 0.09 /this was VERY hard to press in/
0.09 - 0.09
0.09 - 0.09
0.09 - 0.09
EXHAUST:
0.15 - 0.15
0.13 - 0.13
0.15 - 0.15
0.15 - 0.15
ALL of the buckets are to be replaced I bet - still need to take them out and take reading.
I just wonder what will be the state of the head/seats, valves.
And have no hope for the timing elements.
I am really devastated.
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Have you done a compression check? That will give a clue as to engine condition. Did the bike run well when you rode it home?
I find it odd that the clearances are so uniform across all the valves. It's almost as if they were intentionally set for those clearances. Double check the clearances and then remove the cams and measure the bucket sizes. You may be able to shuffle them around to reduce the number you will ultimately need.
What do the footpeg plates look like? Paint wear on them is a good indicator of the bike's usage. What are the engine and frame numbers? Do they match? Could this be a replacement engine?
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The bike looks pristine. I mean for a 30odd years it looks really, really good.
Only gripe inside is the outside black insulation sleeves are delapidating in fingers. I think it has been exposed to some cleaning agent maybe… my previous brick didn’t have that. Same age.
Footpegs are almost as new, no paint wear on the plates. Original paint. Great seat.
I mean this is not the first and not the 20th bike i dive into but I can’t really make heads or tails out of it.
Don’t want to take the plugs out before I am all done with the valves so that no carbon falls down onto the ex seats by any chance.
It starts and runs very, very well, the power is as you would expect - 140kmh cruising is just a walk, plenty of throttle left and one burst to 160 just went smooooth
AF. I just don’t get it at all :( :idunno:
With this out of spec level the bike should really loose compression or be difficult to setup syncing the throttles. Nothing of these.
It is all mystery to me now. Hell!
Where to look for the engine number? And replacement or not - this is just plain impossible to explain in my head what I am experiencing.
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Another way to gauge the age of a K bike is to look at the white plastic above the tail light bulb. Due to the heat from the bulb, this darkens as a K ages. On a low mile bike it will show a little yellow discoloring. On a high mile bike it will be very dark, almost black, above the tail light bulb.
Here's an example from a low mile bike:
(https://i.imgur.com/gOch7Px.jpg)
Some caveats:
If the lens has been replaced at some point in the bike's life then this does not apply.
This works on US bikes because the tail light is wired to always be on. On non-US bikes with the light switch then this doesn't yellow as quickly if the lights aren't always on while the bike is ridden.
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Engine serial number is at the right rear of the oil sump.
(https://i.imgur.com/MEnQNXy.jpg)
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Found the engine number on the rh of the crankcase. It does not match the frame number. If this is the right thing to look at. But there is 95 stamped in the number if that stands for the year.
Still - I can’t explain to myself these clearances in ANY WAY.
According to the book this is well beyond the limit - but as I say - the bike runs just close to perfect.
On the way economy was great varying on different stretches from 4.7 to 5.2l per 100kms
The EU bikes could run without lights before 2001 if I remember it correctly so this above will not apply.
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K bike engine numbers don't have anything to do with the VIN. Back in the old days BMW bikes did have matching frame and engine numbers but that does not apply to K bikes.
Are you sure that you measured the valves clearances correctly? Those numbers are way out of whack.
There's some links to IBMWR write-ups on this page:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/4valves/4valves.htm
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I am beginning to think I could have used an imperial set of blades and read the wrong line number. Then - that would be the funniest mistake I have ever made but today I feel really beyond wasted to go to the workshop and wrap my head around it.
As you say - this just can’t be true reading.
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The fuel economy you're getting is very good for a K11.
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If that .09 feeler was a tight fit, that would mean the gap could indeed be .008" which is nice and loose as is the .013" and .015" on the exhaust valves.
That the valves are all nearly the same gap makes me think someone was fussy enough to set them that way(typical German). I have to doubt that anyone who would go to that trouble would set them too tight. That the bike ran well even when hot enough to run the fan is more evidence that the clearances are probably okay.
I would suggest that you carefully check the clearance again.
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Can you post some photos of your brick and the instrument cluster?
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There you go.
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Seems like I made a terrible mistake with this measurement. I have been saying this is the last year without bifocals and that is a fact as I just feel embarassed.
Obviously I took the wrong gauges and in the fire of work I even didnt think they seemed a 'tad' too thick in the fingers.
The final verdict is all of the valves are on the loose side, up from the bottom limit, only ONE, right intake is a tight fit for the 0.15mm but it can be massaged in - if it were for exhaust I would do it now but this way I will leave it for the winter job when I will do the clutch splines and seals and pivot bearings.
The camchain and guides all look new without noticeable wear so this finally proves to me what I bought is what had been advertised. You may laugh but I do not have much trust in German vendors. Nationality thing maybe :laughing4-giggles:
Now - while there I need to replace this crankshaft seal as I have no idea whether this has been done or not. Is this in any way a generic seal or can this only be purchased at BMW? Cant be very expensive and I would not like to go back there in case the hall chamber develops a leak and stops the machine from running. I think this could be substituted with an ordinary simmering but will wait for your input.
The plugs as you see them were almost finger tight with the caps nearly impossible to remove so vulcanised to the stems. I think this could be a VERY old set of plugs - electrodes are well worn but these deposits are worrying me a bit. I never wait 30kkm with replacing plugs so maybe I havent seen much in my life in this respect. Propane test done while the bike was idling and there is no noticeable change in idle - I think all is tight in the vacuum intake side. MAYBE the middle injectors are not spraying as they should? BUT - as I said the economy has been great so far, the bike is pulling strong, idles great, fires right up. I have run 40l of fuel with preventative injector cleaner additive /STP is the brand over here/ and I think after the first tank the bike got a little better 'go' as it was a tad sluggish at the beginning. Maybe this is just old age of the plugs.
I will do compression test when all is together just to cap it all off and then fit a new set of plugs in.
All in all - given the partially poor aesthetics /rust pitting on the chrome suspension pipes between the triples for example/ the bike seems to be in good shape to cover much more kilometres in our mutual journey. I am beginning to think it was left dormant for a very long time and this is what is killing these bikes mostly.
Cant wait to put it all back together and ride some more while the summer is still here.
One question though - the manual says it differently but I found in the forum the procedure for syncing the throttle bodies and it says I should start with the FIRST air screw out by 1.5 turns and then adjust all of the other screws to #1. In some other place I saw an instruction to start with the screw #3 as this is where the bowden comes to. I managed to get a proper synch with the first method but which one is correct/better? Also the manual just says: get it all in line and that is it. I already know that without a proper reference point this will bring the idle to 1200rpm roughly.
Is the 1.5 turns out on the 1st screw the agreed upon method?
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Regarding throttle balance. I adjust the screw on the last throttle body, the one with the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly bottomed. Then I use my cheap home made balancer to match the other throttle bodies to that one. I get excellent results and it only takes about 15 minutes to do the job.
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I THINK the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator is only a K100 and 75 /maybe/ affair. No such thing on 1100 bricks AFAIK
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The spark plugs don't look all that bad. I change mine every two years and some will have as much as 32,000km on them. As far as the caps being stuck on the spark plugs, that seems to be typical of the caps. I don't worry about it, since a tight cap keeps moisture out.
Crank seals can be had at any shop that sells industrial bearings and seals. As long as you have the part number they can match it. BMW's prices for seals and bearings are pretty close to what you pay at the industrial shop, the industrial place is just a little more convenient.
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I THINK the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator is only a K100 and 75 /maybe/ affair. No such thing on 1100 bricks AFAIK
Correct. 4V Ks do not have a vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.
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The plugs as you see them were almost finger tight with the caps nearly impossible to remove so vulcanised to the stems.
One question though - the manual says it differently but I found in the forum the procedure for syncing the throttle bodies and it says I should start with the FIRST air screw out by 1.5 turns and then adjust all of the other screws to #1. In some other place I saw an instruction to start with the screw #3 as this is where the bowden comes to. I managed to get a proper synch with the first method but which one is correct/better? Also the manual just says: get it all in line and that is it. I already know that without a proper reference point this will bring the idle to 1200rpm roughly.
Is the 1.5 turns out on the 1st screw the agreed upon method?
K bike spark plug leads fit VERY tightly on the spark plugs compared to other vehicles. It is normal for them to be difficult to remove. Make sure that they are that tightly seated when you put them back on. What I do is grab the tang on each cap with one hand with a set of pliers and then hit it with the other hand. Once installed you should try wiggle each one. If the caps wiggle at all on the spark plugs then they are not properly seated.
It doesn't matter which cylinder is the reference cylinder for balancing. Most people start at #1 out of convention more than anything else. The objective is to get them all balanced with each other.
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My mistake on the fuel pressure regulator. My 4v K100RS bikes had the 2v style regulator and I thought that the K1100 did as well. 2v and 4v K100 have same regulator part number and the K1100 part number is different.
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My mistake on the fuel pressure regulator. My 4v K100RS bikes had the 2v style regulator and I thought that the K1100 did as well. 2v and 4v K100 have same regulator part number and the K1100 part number is different.
I thought it was 2V vs 4V but you're correct the K100RS4V & K1 use the same FPR as K75/K100.
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no prob at all guys :D every day is a school day :D
I have learned that one very lately going through the sync procedures between the 2 and 4v versions.
does the number of turns of these brass screws affect the mixture in low/mid revs/loads the way the air screws affect carbs? I THINK my brick is running a tad rich as the exhaust gets a little bit sooty after a while.
I want to pull the water pump while I am at it - going under the timing cover that is. Am I still safe with the oil level or no luck and drain this time???
I want to have everything sealed with Rensosil as I trust this one a lot + see if the weep hole is through and not blocked by the copious amounts of sillycone the previous hammersmith was using.
ordered the timing cover seal /cant be substituted with a generic one I reckon - that is a directional seal for some reason - if someone knows why please shed some light/ and valve cover seal - i prefer to have a proper new seal made of proper rubber instead of bloody RTVing everything around.
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The water pump is also the oil pump and it's down near the bottom of the engine so you do need to drain the oil.
The valve cover gasket is not generic. Part 11121461396.
(https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/thumb_x8.png)
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I want to have everything sealed with Rensosil as I trust this one a lot + see if the weep hole is through and not blocked by the copious amounts of sillycone the previous hammersmith was using.
The big question is: Did the previous hammersmith have eyeglasses and actually wear them while working on the Brick? :laughing4-giggles: The silicone likely came from BMW's manufacturing plant. 44271 Watch this starting at 4:36 and ending around 5:40. 112350
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW6hAj8pgUU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW6hAj8pgUU)
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Hahahaha :) got the one about the glasses RIGHT between my eyes :)
Yeah, Chris is spot on on the stringers. Had many of them in the cam chain cover. Good sign in the end it seems! ;)
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Hi guys - weekend was a resting time for me 112350 but with all the parts ordered at BMW I need to start cracking on the front fork and tyres so as to when the seals arrive I can start putting the old girl together for the coming weekend ride of Czech Republic and Germany.
With a long trip coming end of August -> Poland Wroclaw, Annecy France then Ancona Italy via Stella Alpina site and all of the mountains on my way as much as the time allows, then back to Poland for the annual Africa Twin rally the first week of September ... I wonder what else to look for or what to replace to ensure trouble free journey.
What comes to my mind is the fuel tank now - should I get a new fuel pump? Should I replace all the hoses inside - I have read horror stories of them bursting? Anything else in there?
Certainly need to take the cap off and see inside - but the main fuel line to the fuel rail is clearly marked 1995 - although it is not cracked it needs to go for sure.
Air filter needs to go as well I think and the bottom of the airbox is full of oil - but the bike was overfilled by 0.6l easy when on my back to Poland.
I will open and blow every electrical connector with contact spray and compressed air. The combined sockets under the tank are very well preserved but some TLC will do no harm I think.
The bike has an alarm fitted which seems to be dead - the brain lives in the back of the bike next to the rear lamp with the alarm switch located next to the input/output/charging socket on the left handside of the bike next to the coils. I think I want this thing out of the bike but its harness seems to be entertwined into the electrical system everywhere :( I dont trust these add ons.
As usual - hints and ideas are more then welcome.
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DeoxIT D5 (https://www.micro-tools.de/en/Contact-Enhancer/CAIG-DeoxIT-D5-Spray-142-g.html?isextsearch=alist) is the electrical contact cleaner in which I have the most confidence. I was influenced to use it from reading testimonials by Brick riders here and elsewhere. You should replace the fuel tank's internal lines and the fuel filter, too. Use only SAE J30R10 or its EU equivalent for the lines.
The alarm can be disabled according to this post and a couple of posts that follow it (http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72332&sid=8b75d307aaa5d679c2d39e765f4f9e62#72332). Take a photo of the alarm and the BMW part number stamped on it if you can find one then post the photo here. Removing it is a labyrinthine project but has been done successfully.
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Thank you Laitch!!! :beer
Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line? Appr 6-7mm inside? I could just buy 1m of hose in advance and let the post do their thing in the meantime.
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Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line?
If you've lost your calipers, you need to find them. You will need them eventually and you shouldn't be depending on random nationals with nothing better to do than hang out here. :laughing4-giggles:
If you are referring to hoses outside the tank as "supply line", they differ from hoses inside the tank. Hoses inside the tank must be submersible in fuel without being damaged by it; hoses outside the tank must be ozone resistant. There's no need for one hose to have both characteristics; however, both types must be high pressure fuel injection hoses and should be attached with fuel injection-type hose clamps.
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Thank you Laitch!!! :beer
Before I go into the tank /!/ are the internal hoses the same diameter as the supply line? Appr 6-7mm inside? I could just buy 1m of hose in advance and let the post do their thing in the meantime.
Both internal and external fuel lines are 8mm ID.
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Better to order before diggin into the tank. Thanks Frankenduck.
The submersible thing was obvious. Hope they will not implode due to the latest fashion.
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while replacing the fork seals and oil I have dismantled the whole front of the bike and with the calipers just dangling down there I discovered /not much surprise/ the brake lines are nothing but to be replaced.
as ready made braided lines are worth arm and leg nowadays I am thinking about buying a length of teflon, braided lines and doing them myself with the screwed banjos, etc.
what is your experience with these? in my market they are viewed as greatly inferior and 'dangerous' but they are properly burst resistant up to 900bar.
this will be also a great occasion to open the calipers for a general cleaning job and drain all of the old DOT4. I THINK the right caliper was slightly sticky - by the amount of force I needed to exert to take the wheel out I can only tell the pistons will benefit from a good cleanup!
replacing also all the perished insulation on harnesses and rubber airbox suction lines - cracked.
no Kbike riding this weekend - will have to live with my trusty NTV650 Deauville but the work progresses towards a happy /I hope/ ending.
m
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Braided SS brake lines: https://www.motobins.co.uk/
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. . .in my market they are viewed as greatly inferior and 'dangerous' but they are properly burst resistant up to 900bar.
You don't seem to highly regard the minds in your market, do you? I know; it is lonely at the top. At least I've read that it is. :laughing4-giggles: Regardless, the price Bayermotoradd is asking for a complete set (https://www.bayermotor.de/en/stainless-steel-brake-line-set-front-and-rear-bmw-k1100lt-from-08-93-abs-ii-steel-mesh-is-not-covered#product_info) is probably as good or better than anywhere in the world and that could even include the price of OEM rubber lines which are what I use.
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Cant really see the letters from the top :) almost.
The price at Bayer is good indeed but only slightly better than what I have here before a discount plus shipment from Germany.
Spoke to some guys who run those screw-on braided lines for years. This will be the route I will follow.
Received parts from BMW. Hope to close the engine today.
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Spoke to some guys who run those screw-on braided lines for years.
Keep in mind that braided lines generally don't have good performance if they become the screw-up type. :laughing4-giggles:
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You don't seem to highly regard the minds in your market, do you? I know; it is lonely at the top. At least I've read that it is. :laughing4-giggles: Regardless, the price Bayermotoradd is asking for a complete set (https://www.bayermotor.de/en/stainless-steel-brake-line-set-front-and-rear-bmw-k1100lt-from-08-93-abs-ii-steel-mesh-is-not-covered#product_info) is probably as good or better than anywhere in the world and that could even include the price of OEM rubber lines which are what I use.
Those German companies usually use DHL which tends to be somewhat expensive.
Motobins uses UK Royal Mail and their shipping costs (at least to the US) are reasonable. For heavier stuff they use FedEx which is pricier like DHL.
I've haven't looked for brake lines there but tills.de usually has good prices.
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Those German companies usually use DHL which tends to be somewhat expensive.
DHL out of Europe has been good to me. Contracts with sellers may vary, or maybe it's your location in K-landia that jacks up the price. Commerce is full of mysteries.
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Since UK became more of an island again any kind of purchase from there hits you twice - initial purchase and then the customs plus VAT. We just got a little bit too comfortable with the EU thingy…
Gonna be a while before the supplier comes back from holidays anyway. Then I am starting my summer vacations this Sunday so there will be a break to my boring you with mundane stuff ;)
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Yeah, that VAT makes a difference. Orders to the US pay no VAT and no customs duty under $200 per order.
But I've also bought stuff for over $200 and still didn't have to pay duty.
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You know - my country is still developing ;) and they will take any and every penny they can.
I even paid a salty amount upon receiving my own cylinder I had sent to UK to be nicasil replated - so this was really just service and no goods per se 177381
Times like this I think I am supporting schools or orphanages - it bites less. Screw it.
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Meh, every country and every government tries to rip their citizens off. They have to feed "the beast" that is government.
I've been to Poland. Had a great time and enjoyed the people I met there.
(Except for the cops who blackmailed my bother for $40 for supposedly smoking in the wrong place.)
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You must have been very unlucky with the Polish cops mate :)
Engine closed. Not running yet but almost there.
Question: I need to unplug this FAG :) plug as the insulation has perished and the cables are bare.
Took out the top screw but nope - no go. I see there is still a torx bottom screw but in order to undo this one I might have to take the bloody unit out = major dismantling job I am afraid.
Is this just a holder or really need to take this one out?
Slowly the brick is coming together. If I am lucky I will ride it tomorrow.
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I don't have one of these FAGs but the plug is similar to the 2V Jetronic plug I do have, at least from what I can see on eBay examples and the K1100 manual available at this site. The plug body has a hook at its top that cannot be seen. There is a flat stainless steel latch plate close beneath the bottom of the plug (red arrow in photo). Pushing downward on that latch will allow the plug to be removed if you pull the bottom of the plug to the left approximately 20mm. After that, to remove the plug, pull the bottom of it leftward, swing it outward and upward to decouple it from the pins and unhook it from the controller.
No warranty is expressed or implied concerning the quality of these instructions. :laughing4-giggles:
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thanks for this explanation - I tried to wigglewiggle this latch any direction possible and this is one piece of a persistent latch that is :D no way.
as the bottom screw is a torx type i THINK this is to remain there forever and not to be taken out for disconnecting. I will give it all one more go.
given the 'rails' along the pins the plug neds to go simply OUT - no twisting.
I mean, given the relatively vibeless nature of the brick, I can run it like that for a ride or two but dont want to push my luck too far.
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given the 'rails' along the pins the plug neds to go simply OUT - no twisting.
I tried to wigglewiggle this latch any direction possible
Wrong. There's a word everybody likes to receive. :laughing4-giggles:
The plug cannot just go "out" because its top edge is hooked to that rolled portion of the housing at the top. See the attached diagram of an example of this type of plug. Note the hook at one end. Now if your plug doesn't have a hook it might have a wedge on its end to keep that end coupled with the unit. The plug doesn't get twisted; it gets pivoted to the left and upward.
The latch doesn't get "twisted" or "wiggled."It gets pried or pushed downward. See the attached photo
Try this. Pry the latch downward, keep it held down then pull the bottom of the plug to the left passing over the latch then swing the plug upward with your third hand.
I believe the faith and logic in you will overcome your intuition and you will prevail, maybe. :laughing4-giggles:
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all good comes to an end - holidays are one painful example :D but here I am back.
have collected all the pieces of the brick and some mortar and stuck it together. not too many pieces left off :D
new HEL steel lines all the way around the bike. OFC took some time and DOT4 to have it all bled properly but managed to lock the front on the tarmac today so I reckon it all is doing tits job :D
BUT. there is always this, isnt there?
BLINKERS - have checked the whole machine before going for a 70kms 'checkup' ride as I am planning to do a cross country shot this weekend - all worked purrfectly. BUT - when I press the blinker button it only blinks ONCE or twice. Then once in a while it works as supposed to and then it again just does ONE blink. Completely random. I checked upon arrival at home again - engine off - NO PROB = checked this like a dizen of times and everything is working good. I reckon this must be some time relay or something? I dudnt touch anything in the relay box. I swear :) Is this a known issue?
/added after some searching/ Yes I have ABS, have hazard lights, fuel pump is going ok and the ignition switch gives me no trouble. Seems like /this is to be confirmed/ the trouble appears when the engine is running. There was no trouble whatsoever with blinking when I came back home. The only thing I did was cleaning all of the plugs with deoxit and undoing the main frame ground, cleaned it and retightened all three connectors.
and.... have her run in the garage for something like 30 minutes alltogether, 3 full heat cycles. no prob. after about 60kms fuelled her up and coming back from the cash register I noticed two puddles of oil that just collected somehwere in the fairing... well - by the smell it is motul oil. FECK!
coming back at home I discovered 'tis coming from under the hall wires tunnel. NOT the hall seal - this has been checked.
foind out I could still tighten the M6 nuts in this place by 1/3 of a turn, cleaned all the mess with white spirit to bone dry and left if on the center stand for the night. I will see in the morning if the leak will turn into a 'wee weep' or stays the same.
question is /although I seem to know the answer/ do I have to take the valve cover off as well if need be to have it all resealed?
another question is - WHY on earth BMW didnt use some proper grade thin gasket in there?
I have read somewhere in the forum to use a thin cotton thread to help sealing this summabitch cover. If I need to take this off AGAYN I will use something additional instead of just the RTV.
this really left me in pieces. I really DO hope retightening the screws will do the job. If not... well this is going to be a major teardown again.
on the flipside... the bike is running very well. synchronising the throttles has helped a lot with the buzz, new front tire also has helped to eliminate the slow speed wobble. all in all I am VERY happy how the bike is riding. new front suspension oil, resettled rear tire, regreased head bearings. all ready for the trip but I'd rather not to mark the pavement and make my real tire slip.
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bmp
a little bit of an update. blinkers work as supposed when parked both with engine off and on. I am suspecting this can be related to the the autocancelling function then if it only happens when being on the move??? I think
as to the leak cause this is giving me shakes:
the leak seems to be coming from behind the wiring 'tunne' behind the front cover. so - this could have been coming either directly from between the cover and the engine exactly at this spot /unlikely/ OR this can be coming from the hall seal /fitted new/ BUT - when I took the hall sensor cover off there was just a drop of oil in there - I just dont remember if there was a weep hole in the apparatus that could be draining into the channel and out??? foreseeing from the German engineering that when you have a leak the whole hall unit is not filled with oil???
if the above is true then I have NOT the cover leaking but the teflon seal is not sealing - damaged, improperly seated or IDK.
have everything sprayed in the morning with white spirit and blown with compressed air. had the bike running to full hot for 15 minutes. now - waiting for the first drop to come out.
IF this is the seal I think I will give it a chance and having the whole hall internals out I will try the old offroad trick and will insert a thin PE plastic wedge and run around the seal to have the lip reseated onto the shaft. if this is unsuccessful ... well - tearup time again 177381 177381 177381
side cover left, radio, valve cover, front cover... you know the drill
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I think you're right that the self-cancelling feature is the problem. I think there will be a blue/green wire from the Speedo to the flasher unit. If isolating this from the flasher unit results in the indicators working while in motion, that would varify your guess. Maybe remove the wire or just wrap a slither of paper over its pin to the flasher unit.
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Good News is that the flashers have repaired themselves. Somehow.
The leak from the hall unit I rectified by running a ply of PET bottle around the perimeter and if there was something in there or maybe the lip was not seated properly all is good and dandy now. Not a drop after 2000kms. It is a cool trick for all the inmates if the thing leaks upon reassembly.
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Maybe it was over-filled with blinker fluid and enough of it evaporated.
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Probanbly more of it evaporated on the RIGHT. The left thing is still working not so RIGHT sonetimes :)
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Hi guys
Time to sum up the 2023 riding season.
Managed to clock 16000kms, 10 out of which were done on my brick. I also managed to do IronButt covering 1670kms in 18 hours - also on the brick. This has been a huge accomplishment for me as I wanted to do this for many years.
The bike has been parked in my garage since the beginning of September and lightly betrayed with riding my R80GS :D but only lightly.
Now I have plenty of other motorbike jobs during the winter but I am planning to do the one tight inlet valve and see what could be done about the blinkers blinking just 2-3 times when I press the button. When the bike gets fully hot this symptome goes away.
Also - have a trouble getting new MetzelerLasertec for the rear wheel :( Have a NEW front Lasertec and wanted the same tyre at the back. Seems like I need to think about the RS wheel :( not my favourite route as I want to keep the bike original.
Finally - the front springs seem very saggy to me. When loaded up and with tank full I seem not to have much stroke left :( MAYBE new springs need to be on order or I am thinking about fitting air valves to both legs - this would certainly help.
ANYWAYS - Merry Xmas everyone and hope the NewYear will be better for all of you and for the humanity in general. We need it.
best regards from Poland.
M
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Thought I will post a little update at my second visit into my brick checking up the valves. I remember last time /with some adventures in mixing the imperial and metric feeler gauges :D/ i managed to come to a conclusion that at 45kkm one INTAKE valve was almost too tight. As I had a lot of other stuff to do on my K1100 I decided to leave it as is and ride into the season but make sure I will do another measurement before I go into 2024.
So this is what is looks like now:
1 2 3 4
INTAKE 0,15 0,13 0,20 0,18 0,18 0,20 0,18 0,20
EXHAUST 0,35 0,32 0,27 0,27 0,35 0,35 0,29 0,29
So the valves flow a bit but this being the first proper adjustment I hope it is going to last me a long time. Decided to swap SIX buckets /150USD :( with my usual BMW rebate/ and one of them could be just relocated - this will bring all the clearances right back into the factory upper spec. I think I will not be inclined to go there in another 20-30kkm that could be 4 years so this is money well spent.
I know the valvetrain, chain, rails and valves are all OK.
So people - do check up the valves sometimes :D as they are nothing but eternal.