MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: redwolfstudio on December 28, 2021, 12:10:19 PM
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Hello everyone,
Am restoring a 1990 K75 RT, and want to replace the 3 rubber tubes connecting (in the throttle assembly, right behind the injectors) to airbox. Am having a very difficult time locating them in Europe. I am based in Sweden. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am also unsure what they are called!?
Thanx for your help:-)
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The lower part that connects the throttle body to the cylinder head is:
11 61 1 460 408 INTAKE MANIFOLD
The upper part that connects the throttle body to the air box is:
11 61 1 460 755 BUSHING
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51743&rnd=07242017
Go down to "Engine" diagram #11_1776 "AIR COLLECTOR/INLET MANIFOLD"
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Thank you very much for your reply! Really appreciate:-)
Best wishes for 2022:-)
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Good luck with your rebuild! I have a '94 K75RT that I use for touring. It's a really great machine for covering large distances with minimum fuss.
In the 6 years I've toured with mine it has reliably done 70,000km in comfort in weather ranging from 0 C and snow on the Canadian Plains to 50 C in the southwest deserts, from the bottom of Death Valley to the top of Pike's Peak. From the Atlantic to the Pacific and from the Gulf of Mexico to the lakes of Manitoba and the North shore of Lake Superior.
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Am restoring a 1990 K75 RT, and want to replace the 3 rubber tubes connecting (in the throttle assembly, right behind the injectors) to airbox. Am having a very difficult time locating them in Europe.
Try tills.de (https://www.tills.de/11611460755-bushing.html).
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Thank you, will try Tills.de!
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You could also try motoworks.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=FA&SbCt=BA_15_40_FA_50&spPage=2 (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=FA&SbCt=BA_15_40_FA_50&spPage=2)
Even though they are now outside the EU they have fast service and you can alwways write to them if you are unsure of which part you need.
Godt nytår
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Thank you, the more options the better!
Happy New Year:-)
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BYW do you know if I need to remove the cam shafts in order to remove the left engine block?
At first look it would seem I don’t…
Thank you!
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If you are planning on rebuilding the cylinder head you are going to need to remove the cams anyway. Might as well remove them while the head is still on the engine. It makes removing the cams and the head easier.
Also, be aware that the cylinder head bolts are heavy duty Torx fasteners and need a special Torx Plus T50 wrench to remove them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/172636229395?epid=1358551293&hash=item2831ebcf13:g:HXwAAOSwSypY-eec
If you can get one, an impact wrench will make removal a lot easier, and possibly prevent breaking the bolts. They are under a lot of torque, and a little bit of corrosion is all it takes to break them off. I'd rather not talk about how I know this. The memories are too painful. Let's just say that the tool called a breaker bar is appropriately named.
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Now that scares me! I have the torx tools but not on impact. Now I am rethinking this whole thing.
I am tempted to just check my valves clearance and put everything back. Plan for a first start after everything is ready and reassess then.
Thank you for this info! :-)
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How many km on this engine? A decently maintained Brick engine should run at least 200,000 km before it needs any serious mechanical attention beyond routine maintenance.
Run a compression test on the engine before you make any plans about doing a head job. A couple ml of oil in the cylinders and then crank the engine with the throttle wide open and all the spark plugs out. A good engine will run in the vicinity of 9-10 bar or even higher.
I would just check the valve clearances and try to get the exhaust valves as close to the wide end of the gap specification as you can. Intake valves work best at the narrower gaps.
As far as a tune up, make sure the air filter isn't too dirty, put in some new spark plugs(if you use NGK, make sure they have terminal nuts to make good contact with the spark plug wires), check the ignition timing, balance the throttle bodies and run some injector cleaner through the system.
If you can run the engine from time to time, winter is a good opportunity to clean up the injectors. Put some injector cleaner in the tank with fresh fuel. Then once a week during the winter, run the engine at 2000rpm for 5 minutes or until it reaches normal operating temperature. If the injectors are varnished with old fuel, this will clean it out and correct any stickiness in their operation. This is important if the engine has been idle for an extended period of time.
There is a reason these engines are called Bricks beyond the way they look.
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Thank you very much for your answer!
The bike has 95k and was a police bike which I assume means its been maintained properly.
I have new spark plugs, new ignition coils and new injectors on the way.
Once installed I will do a compression test and reassess. Hopefully all will be fine:-)
Thanx again for your explanation, really helpful for me! :-)
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Good news! At 95,000km your engine is finally fully broken in and ready for regular use. I would guess that you have at least 100,000km before the engine might need any work.
Since it was a police bike, did it come with city cases and front and rear crash bars? Those items are getting rare, especially the rear crash bars. You might also have a police speedometer which will be calibrated and accurate. The stock speedometers read about 10% high.
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Thank you for the good news, that’s really great to know:-))
I do have front crash bars and the bmw cases but no rear crash bars.
I will put all these up for sale:-)
Thanks again for this info, really cool!