I mean the plastic bad under the gauge cluster that goes over the handbar blocks.That S-style pad is mounted on L-shaped channel brackets that can be bent slightly forward or rearward to accommodate change in rotation of the handlebar—which you might need to do to get comfortable. Like Chaos mentioned, posting some photos would help us better understand the situation. Photo posting instructions are in the Photo Guidance section.
Im trying to give myself further arm stretch. Sportbike style handles are far more comfortable to me and dont cause nearly as much pain as other more relaxed leaning positions. Another issue is that even though I loosen the switchgears, the right side brake hose gets cinched (pictures to come) and wont allow it to get into proper angle.
Why do you want further arm stretch? Your handlebars should be positioned so that you can bend your elbows and are putting as little upper body weight as possible, ideally none, on your hands. A K75S is not a sport bike, it's a sport-touring bike.
Why do you want further arm stretch? Your handlebars should be positioned so that you can bend your elbows and are putting as little upper body weight as possible, ideally none, on your hands. A K75S is not a sport bike, it's a sport-touring bike.
I am unsure what bolt I should loosen and how much air will get into the system when I do, permitting a future bleed which I am hesitant to do on a motorcycle.You'll probably need to loosen both of them to determine a position suitable for adjusting the switch block. You'll need to learn how to bleed your brakes anyway, if you intend to be a serious rider because brakes should be bled every year. It's a relatively simply taske. If those are the original hoses, they're overdue for replacement.
Also im young and I do all my wrenching so my confidence is slowly building but brakes scare me man, and I can’t exactly afford sending my bike to my local shop all the time as labour is expensive. Im sure you understand where im coming from here.I understand where you're coming from—a confusing place of self-professed experience governed by fear that you're allowing to stop your progress. If you have bled brakes on motorcycles that you have been able to stop by using the brakes after bleeding them, and if you can follow written instructions, you can bleed these. You don't have a choice apparently because money is in short supply. I'm not interested in how old you are. If you have a riders license, insurance and a fair degree of intelligence, you should do it. Because your butt and economic wellbeing are both on the line, I'm sure you'll do a good job with these. :laughing4-giggles:
I understand where you're coming frame—a confusing place of self-professed experience governed by fear that you're allowing to stop your progress. If you have bled brakes on motorcycles that you have been able to stop by using the brakes after bleeding them, and if you can follow written instructions, you can bleed these. You don't have a choice apparently because money is in short supply. I'm not interested in how old you are. If you have a riders license, insurance and a fair degree of intelligence, you should do it. Because your butt and economic wellbeing are both on the line, I'm sure you'll do a good job with these. :laughing4-giggles:
If you haven't taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation basic rider course, register for the next one available. If you already have, get on with the work. Fear shouldn't stop you; it should make you a more careful and methodical worker. You'll get plenty of help here.
I'm a big fan of only using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in these brake systems, instead of ATF, Mr. Clean, maple syrup or some other concoction. It will take a lot of flushing and you'll likely need to remove the pistons and seals, too, for a thorough job. The hose might be collapsing internally too. You'll find out.
You should download the BMW shop manual from this site, the Hayne's manual from here (http://motobavaria.com/docs/bmw_k100_and_k75_haynes_manual.pdf) and get a Clymer manual. Between the three of them, you're likely to get a better understanding of procedures and you can ask for clarity at Motobrick.
To bleed my brakes, I set up a suction / vacuum (for oil changes) that connected directly to the calipers, and let it suck the fluid from the MC down with the shop-vac. A bottle of DOT-4 fluid isn't very expensive, and it'll clean things out nicely.
If you have ABS, you'll want to drain it at the ABS pumps first, then down at the calipers.
Bleeding the ucky gunk out of the brake lines was very satisfying!!
Per the BMW manuals, only use DOT 4 brake fluid.That's true; however, DOT 3 will make a suitable flushing fluid and any minuscule remainder would be compatible with DOT 4.
Usually I do it by hand except once where I used a vac-gun and it was awful.Consider for a moment that you could have misunderstood how to use the system. Regardless, the main thing is to understand what you're doing, to understand why you're doing it, to get underway doing it, and to do it thoroughly with no short cuts or assumptions clouding the process. There are a couple of excellent illustrated threads here about brake system rehabilitation. There is also a guide here for how to search this site effectively.
It does not eat through paint as quickly as the blood of the creature from the movie Alien would.Hahahahaha
I'm a big fan of only using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in these brake systems, instead of ATF, Mr. Clean, maple syrup or some other concoction.Let's not be too hasty here and discount maple syrup... it has a low boiling point but IS acceptable if you have waffles for knee grip pads. :laughing1: :lets-eat: