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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jessezack on September 05, 2021, 07:26:12 PM
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So brickers, maybe this will be good for a couple laughs, though I was shedding tears when it happened. Made some rookie mistakes. I was going to change out the coolant on my 95 k1100rs. So I'm following the manual and I'm on the step where I think that I found the drain plug on the water pump. It's like a 1/2" allen, and it's positioned so that it backs out in a somewhat upward angle?!. No coolant comes out, and I'm thinking, okay, the fluid level must have been REALLY low then. So I unclamp the hose above it and drain copious amounts of coolant. I go to put that drain plug back in, which is finely threaded, and I can't, because there's no clearance for my fat fingers and a long allen wrench would not engage it at the proper angle without damaging the threads. So after a couple hours of not being able to put the drain screw back in, I took the water pump off, which was not too bad, and then had the pump in my hand where I easily put the screw back in. NOW, I put the pump back on (you have a shaft that sticks out of it that connects it with the bike). I put the five short bolts and two long ones back in, and start tightening. I see a 1/4 inch gap between the pump and the bike while tightening the last bolt. I think, this is sweet, I'm going to just lag this pump back on. But the pump housing breaks, and a chunk (the area of the last bolt I'm tightening) flies off. Very tragic. What I think has happened is that I didn't have the pump flush when assembling and maybe had a spacer or something related to that shaft not lined up perfectly. I have a new water pump housing being shipped, but would like any feedback regarding tricks on lining up those gears and also if I need to use some sealant/liquid gasket when putting the pump back on and also the pump cover. Both items I had to knock off with a block of wood and mallet after taking the bolts out. Long day of learning, but worth it.
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So I'm following the manual and I'm on the step where I think that I found the drain plug on the water pump. It's like a 1/2" allen, and it's positioned so that it backs out in a somewhat upward angle?!.
Which manual were you following and which chapter? It's time to prepare legal action to receive monetary compensation for pain and suffering caused by misdirection. :laughing4-giggles: It isn't a drain screw that you removed and replaced so adroitly. It was the oil pressure relief valve assembly's screw plug (at red arrow's tip in photo). The oil drain plug is at the 5 o'clock position on the right side of the pump body as you face it.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-050921234752.png)
Regardless, here's a concise summary of your future:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzxdMe8ICYU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzxdMe8ICYU)
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Note the other red arrow. That button does not work.
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Note the other red arrow. That button does not work.
Try upgrading the Netscape Navigator :popcorm
3-Bond 1184 Service Bulletin (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=13176.0)
Slip-ring seal for water pump Service Bulletin (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4994.0)
Oil Water Pump Seals K-models SB 11 039 89 2352 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=14497.msg129643#msg129643)
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/pumpkit870.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/pumpkit870.htm)
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/pumpkittool628.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/pumpkittool628.htm)
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Note the other red arrow. That button does not work.
How do you know the wi doesn't close when the button is pressed? I doubt that you even could identify a wi even while wearing your glasses. :laughing4-giggles:
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Thank you to all who replied, and the links were super helpful (video of a guy replacing the seals and links to parts and the seal tool). A couple more questions though. Is there any merit in having the broken off piece welded back together? I have a welding background and I think it is at least a possibility. I think the water/oil pump is cast aluminum? I ask this because the pump assembly is already all together, and I would be able to forgo the risk of screwing up the seal replacement and pump rebuild... also the cost of the new pump housing, seals, seal tool, liquid gasket, etc. We're talking about a chunk broken off the size of a crab rangoon.
This may have been a stupid question, but I just want to get the bike back on the road ASAP! In Maine we only get five months...
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Is there any merit in having the broken off piece welded back together? . . . also the cost of the new pump housing, seals, seal tool, liquid gasket, etc. We're talking about a chunk broken off the size of a crab rangoon.
I think a photo would be helpful here; crab rangoon isn't necessarily made in tiny portions. :laughing4-giggles: You stated earlier the pump housing was "on the way." Hadn't you paid for it yet?
It doesn't seem like luck is on your side regardless of which choice you make. Having a welding background should make it easy for you to verify that cast aluminum is what you intend to fool with. I'd prefer the new pump housing to a rangoon-patched housing but that would require a thorough understanding of assembly instructions, increased cost, and patience. Remember though, it isn't about the destination; it's about the journey. 177381
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Do a quick cost/ benefit calculation on this and make your decision. You don't want this repair leaving you stranded somewhere. I'm not quite sure where you went wrong on this but, believe me, if I can do the rebuild so can you. Not sure what your mileage is on the bike but that should factor into it as well. Be gentle with these parts and refer back to the rebuild instructions often. And be thankful that the price you pay for things in the US is cheaper than anywhere else on the planet!
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I've joined the "rebuild water/oil pump seals" club, the special version where the first time putting it all together, one wrecks the water seal. Because even when you think it's "IN", it is NOT IN. I couldn't figure out why I could not get the bolt to torque properly and the pump and gear wouldn't turn freely. It was because the water pump seal was only MOST of the way in.
EME, you have another repeat customer, older and wiser. . .
Or maybe I'll put it all together and see if it leaks or not. Maybe I didn't actually wreck it.
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I watched that video...had trouble following due to the lack of cursing!