MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: wmax351 on December 03, 2011, 09:11:13 PM
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I figured I'd post my list of tasks on my brick this winter. Looking for anything others think I should take care of while at it.
Steering/Suspension:
New Steering head bearings
Relube fluidblock damper with Dow-Corning High vacuum grease
Possibly add a small preload spacer on the front suspension
Potential new rear Shock (Leaning towards YSS)
Other:
New Swingarm Boot (Old one seems torn)
New Tires (BT-45's)
Fix two of the sockets for the cluster
Fix clock on cluster
Possibly Calibrate the speedo, albeit at the risk of riding at an actual 80mph, rather than indicated 80 mph.
Set up a better mount for my running lights
Oil/Water Pump Rebuild
Modifications
I am going to install a O2 sensor bung, and a custom gauge. Give me a better idea of its tune, as it is getting poor mileage (~35-38mpg). I will be doing a normal, narrowband type, for 13.5-15.5 :1 AFR. I may need to adjust the MAF sensor, or just install the Megasquirt system and be done with it.
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lube the clutch cable pivot barrel in the clutch lever. I think I'll do that on mine right now while I'm thinking about it. :rad:
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my winter to-do list includes:
-clean starter
-send injectors in to Mr Injector for cleaning
-clean the headlight switch
-replace the breather hose
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-clean up my headlight relay instilation.
- sand and do body work, sand and do body work, sand and do body work.
- repaint the ol' brick!!!!!
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Can someone elaborate on what "relube fluidblock damper" entails?
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Can someone elaborate on what "relube fluidblock damper" entails?
The fluidblock damper is basically a rubber tube inside another rubber tube. It has a highly viscous (likely silicone) grease inside, which provides the damping.
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fluidbloc.shtml (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fluidbloc.shtml)
I got a bit of this from my chemistry lab:
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/dow.shtml (http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/dow.shtml)
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Heres My list
Fork Seals
Gaiters
LED Cluster upgrade
Mount Driving lights and Switch( OEM Style)
Valve Cover Gasket( might have the Valves checked/adjusted and the Throttlebodies Syn'd) so they would be done at the same time
Change All Fluids
Rear Tire
Optional add on's( if I get Really Bored)
Upgrade the Stereo and Remote Switch
Add some rear Speakers
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How many miles on your brick? Spline lube, throttle body sync, inspect & replace any cracked rubber pieces, adjust all cables, valve adjustment are all good winter tasks if needed.
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92000 km, But I bought it with 82km on it with not service history. Bike looks like its been Loved but its nice to be sure.
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Dear Santa,
Do the handlebar swap for me. The gear needed is right there... And, paint the lid of the topcase to match the bike's color... Leave the rest to me, come March I wake up..;)
Yours,
V.
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I disassembled the front end last night.
Well, new task to add. Seems there is a vacuum leak on the fuel pressure regulator takeoff. Will be fixing that as well.
Also, i think i am going to skip the fuel injection stuff. Going to be a bigger project, and more money than i planned. fixing the FPR should fix the gas mileage issue.
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I had awful fuel economy when I got my K100RS. I replaced the breather hose, fuel filter, all the fuel lines, vacuum lines and those little vaccum caps near the throttle body adjustment screws. (The vacuum caps were split and useless.) Then I synced the throttle bodies. They were way off. Wow -what a difference. Jumped from 30 mpg to around 42 mpg and the power is very smooth. Once you get all that stuff sorted out it really makes a difference.
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I had awful fuel economy when I got my K100RS. I replaced the breather hose, fuel filter, all the fuel lines, vacuum lines and those little vaccum caps near the throttle body adjustment screws. (The vacuum caps were split and useless.) Then I synced the throttle bodies. They were way off. Wow -what a difference. Jumped from 30 mpg to around 42 mpg and the power is very smooth. Once you get all that stuff sorted out it really makes a difference.
I did a breather hose a year or so ago, and the fuel lines/filter are fresh. I put a little bit of thick silicone grease on the caps to improve sealing, and keep the rubber good for longer.