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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: foliver on December 26, 2020, 04:57:51 AM
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Hello all, long time without posting.
Ok, i want to wake up my K75C 86, after 6 years.
She has been inside, it's clean.
Ok, problems known, are:
Starter Relay: last time used, bad battery, so it sticked, it has been dismantled, sanded and ready to use,
Battery: dead
That's it, since 2015
My plan after buy a new battery is:
1: clean and absorbs fuel ( HOW?) inside the fuel tank.
2: change filter and fuel lines inside the tank
3: Empty refrigeration system, clean ( with what? how?) cooler container ( i remember the mayonaise thing...)
4: clean spark plugs
5 : add fuel, cross the fingers and fire up.
I'm forgetting something?
Is my way to go, ok?
Any tip will be reaaly apreciated, as i love this bike a lot.
Thanks all!!
Here is the beast. [ Invalid Attachment ]
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engine oil and filter
trans oil
flush brake fluid
ez to just pull the fuel tank off and dump the old fuel. or use a siphon or small electric pump to get fuel out.
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Hi K1300S!
yes, i forgot to mention the front brake: empty.........
I'll take a look at the front bakes as a separate big item..
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Tires? From the history they are at least 6 years old ... might be a good idea to check the date codes and consider replacing (even if tread looks ok - which it does in your pic) ..? Other opinions may differ - but I would say replace when 7 or 8 years old, regardless of tread.
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I agree on changing the tires. Even inexpensive tires like Shinko are better than 7-8 year old tires from a fancy brand name company.
BTW, if you can get them, Shinko tires are very good for the price.
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The tank can be cleaned out with cleaning vinegar available in bulk from hardware stores. Stubborn marks or buildup removed with a Scotch pad on a blunt stick in the hard to reach spots.
Regards Martin.
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Hello all, thanks for your replies.
Ok, fuel pump is dead ( i test it in correct and inverse polarity), plastics are falling apart inside, a mess.
I've seen a kit here:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fpk-576edl.htm
with enduralast pump, and advice on this brand? is a good one?
The fuel level system is really dirt, i've cleaned it, but maybe i test an ultrasonic way t do it, i guess, it will be ok with water solution....
or not?, the electric system seems to work, but i need to test it, any advice on how to do it with a multimeter?
Front brake system is empty..........nothing, what can be the best way to put it working again?.
Thanks for the vinegar solution, tires needs to be changed too.
Thanks!!!
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To clean the tank with vinegar you need to put enough vinegar in the tank to cover all the crap and allow it to soak for a few days or longer. If your tank is forming pin holes they could open up.
Regards Martin.
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The fuel level system is really dirt, i've cleaned it, but maybe i test an ultrasonic way t do it, i guess, it will be ok with water solution....
or not?, the electric system seems to work, but i need to test it, any advice on how to do it with a multimeter?
Fuel level sender serves three functions - fuel level, low fuel indication and fuel pump feedthrough. The only important function you'll need is to maintain the fuel pump feedthrough. So, loosing the other two functions will not stop you from reviving the bike. Id recommend cleaning the sender, maybe even using the ultrasonic cleaner. There is a wire-wound resistor inside the sender that may be sensitive to the ultrasonic waves and could get damaged. It's better to disassemble the sender and clean it by hand gently. I've written instructions on the K100-forum "Messing with the In-tank sender".
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Thanks Robmac for the very good info.
I read your post and tomorrow, i'll dismantle the unit. Maybe i can just ultrasonic clean the wiper tip and pivot.
Your post is very informative and preise. Thank you!!
I've found inside the tank, two vertical rubber hoses, each one at the sides of the pump location. They seems to be, stoppers, for gasoline turbulence?????? here's a picture, they seems a bit soft, like in need of change....original part?
Any ideas?
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"Your post is very informative and preise. Thank you!!"
ironic 44271
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I've found inside the tank, two vertical rubber hoses, each one at the sides of the pump location.
Vibration dampers.
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https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fpk-576edl.htm
with enduralast pump, and advice on this brand? is a good one? The fuel level system is really dirt, i've cleaned it, but maybe i test an ultrasonic way t do it, i guess, it will be ok with water solution....
or not?
Euromotoelectrics sell good quality; that pump will work well. EME also sells fuel level senders if you need to replace yours.
Many here have successfully cleaned fuel tank interiors by soaking them with vinegar solution for a few days then rinsing them with it several times. You can flush the cooling system by filling it with distilled water, running the engine then draining it a couple of times before filling it with the correct ration of coolant:distilled water. Instead of distilled water you could use commercial cooling system flush following its instructions
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I would suggest doing the vinegar soak in the fuel tank with the fuel level sending unit in place when you do the soak. The vinegar will do a good job of cleaning up the corrosion on it. It might take 4-5 days or longer to loosen it up so the arm flops around when you tilt the tank. Whatever you do, don't try to move the arm before the vinegar has dissolved all the rust. I destroyed one just trying to remove it from the tank before cleaning all the corrosion off of it. As RBM mentioned, the resistance wires on the unit are VERY fragile.
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Thanks!,
Your post is very informative and preise ( typing mistake, the idea was: "precise").
Where can i buy this damm vertical hoses at the side of the pump location? ( last picture)
Thanks for the Vinegar tip. My pump is soaked in vinegar now, just to test it in few days......
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Where can i buy this damm vertical hoses at the side of the pump location? ( last picture)
Just snip a couple of pieces from some fuel-submersible hose; they are nothing special. They should slide into position snuggly but it's likely many of us have lost those pieces long ago, never replaced them but still are riding around happily.
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I don't think those hoses were part of the pump assembly, but something a previous owner put in there for some reason. I suspect that if you put a new fuel pump and the "official" vibration damper you will find that those chunks of hose aren't needed.
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Hi, i agree is not part of the pump assembly, but is part of the design, or someone has messed up in this tank for an unknown reason??
I can take it off now, if they didn't needed to be there.
Anyone can take a look on his bike to confirm that there's nothing there?
I'll take a look in the exploded parts...
txs!!
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I'll take a look in the exploded parts...
It's unlikely you'll find them in there. They might not have been part of production but they could have been the result of a service bulletin some years after production started. I found mine on the floor of the tank. After having read it described in several posts on the Internet, I decided to see what would happen without it because it could have been on the floor of the tank for thousands of miles. 60,000 miles later I don't know if anything happened without it. The moto still runs ok and the fuel pump mounting platform seems ok.
I think this is a case for free will to handle. Go where your heart leads you.
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Most if not all of my bricks have those rubber bits, like a solid cylinder with a slot to accept the pump support bracket. I also guess they reduce the amount of vibration from the pump to the tank, and removing them might allow vibration to fatigue the support bracket welds over time. Maybe the newer models are different.
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Photo
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My bike was unused for 17 years. All these suggestions are important. I would add that you buy plenty of Electronic Cleaner. Deoxit is the best CRC 05103 is also good. Many problem with ABS, fuel pump , electric fan, etc only because sockets were dirty with oxidation.
Clean ALL ground cables. My bike was catching fire because of a dirty ground cable.
Test thermostat while you clean cooling system. Put it in a pot and boil it . See if it opens at 185F / 85C.
Cleaning of the injectors would be nice. But see if it starts first .
Check all rubbers. Specially vacuum hoses and throttle bodies rubber sleeves. So you discard vacuum leaks.
https://www.k100-forum.com/t1651-leaky-intakes-rough-running
Changing oil on a K bike can be "interesting" the first time. If you ha vent done it . Here is a video
https://youtu.be/FgI1MQ8Y5IA
If you have the original rubber brake hoses , examine then to see if they dint leak brake fluid. They might be dry.
Have a fire extinguisher close by. You never know.
Best of luck !
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Hello Areshan, thanks for your reply.
Funny you mention, bad electrical contacts, i was driving home one hour ago thinking about that, good point the ground! good point the thermostat too.
A friend gives me his ultrasonic cleaner, so i cleaned the injectors, and bought new orings for them.
Tomorrrow i'll flush the cooling system, and the engine oil.
I've bought fuel pump kit, new filter, hoses , oil level glass, and seals for the tank from Euromotoelectrics, it will arrive in two weeks...
I'll ckeck the final drive splines ( i've never done that before), what kind of grease can i use?
thanks!!!!
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Honda molybdenum assembly lube. Used to be Honda Moly 60, but now is Honda Moly 77 which I guess has more of the molybdenum powder in it which is not a bad thing. Honda motorcycle dealers will have it.
I don't know what the previous owners used, but I have been using it on my K75 for about 45,000 miles. The bike has over 94,000 on it now and the splines still look brand new.
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Thanks for the grase tip.
I've finished with the tank.
The Vinegar solution, was very good, i have cleaned it with the fuel level system inside, this doesn't allows to work ok in the floater side.
So after finishing al the other sides, i take it off the level system and floater to be able to work on the floater side and on the back.
A little patiente, but not too mutch, easier than it looks.
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Nice job! icon_cheers
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Hi!, happy new year for everyone!!
today i test the thermostat, but i think it's dead, if i boil it it opens at full position, but at room temp( 22 celcius/ 70 F) it still remains open ( not fully but as on the picture).
I think it should be fully close at room temp, or not?
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It should be fully-closed at room temperature unless your room is hot as hell. Here's one that's fully-closed.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-010121193316.png)
That isn't an easy part to replace without spending plenty of money so try cleaning it by boiling it in a 5 parts distilled water to 1 part vinegar solution then see if that releases debris in it. Maybe it will close fully when the solution cools. Don't scorch the gasket because you won't easily find a replacement.
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Hi Laitch, ok, i've worked on it today.
I boiled it with your relation water-vinegar, and then i put it into the ultrasonic, cleaner, nothing.....
I've prepaired a bowl with ices and water, and othe boiling one, and i've donne some cycles...it continue without closing, so i assume i need a new one.
Another good simple intervention today was the waning switch. It has been stiff from the beginning ( 8 years ago, bought used).
i unsoldered, and dismantle it, i put it in the ultrasonic box with 100% vinegar, and after that it clicks easily and smooth.
I quasy lost a spring that can fly to mars in the dismantle process..
I've empty the oil, and retired the filter, waiting now for parts...
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There are several thermostats available on the market that are suitable replacements for the OEM one. See this thread about the Tridon tt214-180: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5038.0 . There are threads that suggest a Toyota thermostat as a replacement but I never managed to get it to work in my experience. This thread on the other forum has lots of good information : https://www.k100-forum.com/t7589-thermostat-gasket-not-o-ring I would check out Motobins for an OEM replacement.