MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Jackson on August 10, 2020, 09:04:24 PM
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Hello all,
I am new to this forum but have been reading through so many posts all day today and yesterday trying to find something to help me.
I recently bought a 1993 K1100Lt. Yesterday I went riding with a buddy for about 6 hours and nothing was wrong. Went to his house and left late at night but when I got to the top of the neighborhood the bike just stopped on me.
Fuel pump was not priming and gear indicator, neutral light, temp light, etc. were not coming on. Found out that fuse 5 (motronic fuse) was blown so I threw another fuse in and it started right up good as new but it blew again after about 2 or 3 minutes of riding. I have been trying to trace the problem with the wiring diagram and reading through the motronic training book but I can not put my finger on the problem.
It was late last night and I had work this morning so did not want to fool around with it too long. Was talking to a buddy and trying to figure it out but all we could come up with is a faulty Motronic unit or ground fault somewhere.
Is there any genius insight that any of y'all have on where the problem could be? Could it be the relay? I am young (20 year old college kid!) and dumb and this is my first bike so excuse my lack of knowledge but I am hoping to learn a great deal from this forum. Thank you for any help you can offer!
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That is a unusual fuse to blow. Motronic failure is rare in a K1100 and to happen after the continuous hours of use, but anything is possible.
Fuse#5 may have factory accessories like aux. lights, radio, alarm, etc... that maybe causing a short
Lack of knowledge and proficiency is no reason to speak of yourself in that manner. We all started somewhere... don't ever speak of yourself like that again.
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Not familiar with the k1100 but here's an option that might be worth considering.
Unplug the consumers that depend on fuse 5 and replace fuse 5 with your multimeter set to 20 Volts. With the ignition on you should read 0 Volts. If you read 12 Volts, wiggle (or unplug) the different wires till you find the one that drops it from 12 to 0. If not, the short might be in one of the consumers (including its wiring)
Consider especially any circuit to fuse 5 that has had recent work done, or is not original.
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So I checked out the bike today cracked open my boxes of fuses I had. The fuse that I used to replace and see if it would blow again was a spare fuse on fuse 10.
When I put a brand new 15 amp in the bike hasn’t died yet. I rode for about an hour to get it home from where I left it last weekend and it ran well.
I would assume the fuse may have been old and starting to degrade? Either way the bike is running and getting me places. If it happens again I’ll start hooking up my ammeter and multimeter to diagnose.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. Can always use more “tools” in the bag.
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All K1100 fuses are 15A
Factory Service Manual, Torque Specs & Riders Manual download from the world famous Motobrick library (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11014.0.html)
Some links for your K journey
Just bought a 2V (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,370.0.html)
Just bought a 4V (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,465.msg960.html#msg960)
Check parts compatibility with BMW MAX Microfiche, BOBS BMW, REAL OEM
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx
https://parts.maxbmw.com/BMW___BmwMotorradK.html
https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/microfiche/BrowseSeries.aspx
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&arch=1
https://www.ascycles.com/BMW-Motorcycle-Parts-Fiche
Cross reference parts like Bosch pn#'s, etc.... http://partsplusecat.com/
No spaces in the part number
Parts Vendors
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/
https://www.capitalcycle.com/
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/
https://www.tills.de/
Headlight relay stuff if you chose to add one
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4962.msg30932.html
http://culayer.com/product/matchbox-headlight-relay/
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html Eastern Beaver site is a great reference for electrical connectors,plugs, etc...
http://www.k100-forum.com/
http://www.kforum-tech.com/Tech-page.html
http://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm
http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/k100tshoot/K100.Troubleshoot.Start.2018.pdf
http://kbikeparts.com/index.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.new2k.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.tech.toc.htm
http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/
http://www.verrill.com/moto/moto.shtml
this site has a lot of good info and breakdown pictures in the tech and tech resources sections for K1100 alot of the parts are on K75 & K100
http://www.k11og.org/forum/index.php?sid=2df953dde5715fd9001fbe69edec5ad0
https://ibmwr.org/index.php/k-bike-tech-articles/
This site has all kinds of technical specifications on all the BMW models http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/mechanicalpages/kseriesmechanical.htm
http://largiader.com
http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/index.html Toshi ABS site
Good Luck
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When I put a brand new 15 amp in the bike hasn’t died yet. I would assume the fuse may have been old and starting to degrade?
It is accurate to assert that these old motos' fuses can degrade; furthermore, the sockets into which they fit can oxidize so they should be inspected also. The fuses can be replaced by whichever fuse at the hardware or auto parts store has the correct blade width and amperage. They don't need to look exactly like the OEM version.
An important tool for Bricks is a can of DeoxIT D5 electronic contact cleaner. All electrical connections should be cleaned and treated with DeoxIT. Some auto parts stores might have it but I get mine at a musical instrument dealer who has a large stock of electric instruments and electronic equipment. Of course, you can buy it online. You should make it your task to clean connections wherever you find them until you've cleaned all of them.
Good luck with your Brick.
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Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006LVEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
CAIG Laboratories D100L-25C Contact Cleaner Needle Dispenser (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000YH6F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
different versions of DeOxit based on the percentage of the magic elixir
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Well I think I know the culprit. Now every time I start it and pull the clutch in the fuse pops. Any insight on where that could be? Or what I should do to fix it?
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Probably the clutch switch or switch wires causing a short.
Trace the wires from clutch perch to underneath the tank should be a connector to left of the frame center tube.
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Probably the clutch switch or switch wires causing a short.
Trace the wires from clutch perch to underneath the tank should be a connector to left of the frame center tube.
Check the wires from the clutch switch where they pass the steering head.
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G = Green B/G = Black/Green The boxed area indicates the connector. The arrow indicates the wire to the coils. The combined switch, right contains the kill switch.(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-160820141605.png)
The clutch switch, its cable and connector.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-160820142053.jpeg)