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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Schnellfahrer on July 29, 2020, 11:45:11 AM
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Until now the turn flashers of my 1995 K75 would stop flashing after riding a certain distance, I guess about 50 yards. The flashers still work fine fore and aft but I have to turn them off manually. This is not a major problem as I can get used to it but I sure liked the automatic feature.
I suspect this malfunction has to do with the Flasher Relay. Before I spend $80+ on a new relay I would like to ask the opinion of the other Flying Brick riders.
Many thanks!
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Is your speedometer/odometer working correctly? If it has issues this can affect the cancellation as well.
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Yes, Milq. Both speedometer and odometer are working fine. Also no problems with the emergency flashers when all four are blinking.
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Signal cancel is a function inside the flasher relay. The flasher relay reads the pulses coming from the speedo Pin 21 (Blue/Green). Either the pulses are not being received by the flasher or the flasher relay is defective in that area. Check wiring continuity between the OEM gauge cluster connector and the flasher relay socket. also examine the flasher relay socket to make sure there is positive contact between it and the flasher module.
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You might also disconnect the instrument cluster main plug then clean its sockets and pins, with special attention paid to the lower four pins. One of them is used by the cancellation signal. When you plug it in, be certain the pins are making firm contact.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/1601-290720182914.png)
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Thanks, all you guys for your input. It turns out that, as was suggested, the flasher relay is at fault.
i sort of got used to cancelling with my thumb but there is a flasher relay in my future I'm sure.
Thanks again!
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You might try one more thing before investing in a new-to-you relay. A common failure is a broken or cold solder joint inside the module becoming defective over time due to vibration. You could open the module and reheat the solder joints that secure the pins to the circuit card. These are the ones most likely to go bad. It's worth a try since you've resigned yourself to buying a new one anyway and the fix is essentially free to perform. If it works, great.