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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: AtLarge on July 11, 2020, 12:36:16 PM
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Got a new problem and looking for some guidance before I dig in. My low and high beam isn't working at all as it normally should. The high beam does light on the flash to pass setting of the switch. The dash high beam indicator does light at that time too but, not in normal driving mode. So, I doubt it's a headlight bulb problem. In my research I find there is no dedicated relay for the headlight? I checked the fuses and none are blown so, don't think its a short in the lighting system as all dash, horn, flashers, etc. work. I am guessing it's not wiring harness under the tank either or there would be other issues. That points me to the left hand switch to check for dirty / broken contacts. The fiche is pretty one dimensional and I can not find any pictures out on the net showing the left hand switch opened up. There's only one screw holding the switch housing together? I open it up and do a cursory electrical check without undoing the cabling for the clutch and enrichener because that is secured by the set screw under the grip right?
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The contacts in the left switch are probably burned. You need to clean them with Deoxit. Then get an Eastern Beaver relay harness to bypass the headlight power around the switch. The flash didn't burn because the power is very seldom going through it.
There are no fuses for the headlight.
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There is no enrichener. It's called a choke for reasons of convenience, not accuracy. It's a starting speed adjuster. It just increases the cold starting speed. The mixture is controlled by the electronic fuel system that is monitoring air and coolant temperature. You probably know all this; I'm just clarifying for uninitiated, impressionable readers and because I like writing during summer rain showers.
There are several instructions on the Web for repairing this component—some are strictly textual and some have illustrations, too.
Here's a link to a breezy and comprehensive description of the process (https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2005/07/18/headlight-switch-cleaning-repair/).
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Right you both are! Now after some fun in the sun I can also say it's somewhat of a rubik's cube disassembling and reassembling. It was bad in there and I could tell I was the first one in since 1993. Interesting too, in that it cannot be completely broken down. There were two contacts that cannot be exposed for thorough cleaning. I think it is for the horn and the gate is pinned but, I did the best I could. Fortunately, I always have Deoxit and Powerwash on hand for my electrical hobbies. I do like the fact that I was able to do everything while it was on the bike and without disturbing the clutch and choke.
(http://i.imgur.com/cmR3OTxm.jpg) (https://imgur.com/cmR3OTx)
Success!
(http://i.imgur.com/ez9UCL6m.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ez9UCL6)
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Now go and get an Eastern Beaver headlight relay harness. The switch contacts will fail again from the damage even though you cleaned them and they're working now. The relays will shunt the high current to the headlight around the handlebar switch, protecting the contacts and increasing the brightness of the headlight.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
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Good suggestion. I just might do that once I get a few other things under control. 112350
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Interesting too, in that it cannot be completely broken down. There were two contacts that cannot be exposed for thorough cleaning. I think it is for the horn and the gate is pinned . . .
Addendum II at the link covers that. Installation of a relay certainly will increase both reliability from the switch and improved light quality from the bulb.
Congratulations on your repair! Enjoy the fruits of your labor. 112350