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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jbeebe on June 28, 2020, 07:06:46 PM
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UPDATE: solved. the rear brake switch wires were sandwiched by the footrest mount, causing them to short.
Here's an interesting one for you guys....
Today I turned the key and the neutral light and gear indicator isn't on. Start button doesn't work. No surprise if it's not getting the "neutral" signal. So I pulled in the clutch and tried.... Still nothing!
Bridged the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and it started right up. After 30sec of running the battery light came on steady and bright. The battery is testing at over 13v with the bike off.
What in tarnation!?!?!
I removed and repositioned the handlebars this morning, but I don't see what I could have pinched or pulled to cause all these problems.
Any ideas?
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Clean your starter. (https://www.k100-forum.com/t2342-starter-motor-cleaning-tutorial) It's often the root of ground problems like that. If it does it again, roll the moto backward and pop the clutch then punch the starter button. If at first you don't succeed, do that a few times.
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Clean your starter. (https://www.k100-forum.com/t2342-starter-motor-cleaning-tutorial) It's often the root of ground problems like that. If it does it again, roll the moto backward and pop the clutch then punch the starter button. If at first you don't succeed, do that a few times.
Thanks Laitch! Wouldn't the fact that the starter functions perfectly when it has 12 volts applied to it while bridging the solenoid rule out its ground from being a problem?
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Was anything else behaving unusually? Headlights, tach, brake lights, turn signals, horn, etc. Did you move the tank? Have you checked all the fuses?
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Yeah fuses are always a quick easy check. Fuse one (top) could be worn out. If it's blown maybe the wire to the start button was crushed when you tightened the dash panel bolts, or handlebar bolts, or handlebar wiring.
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Wouldn't the fact that the starter functions perfectly when it has 12 volts applied to it while bridging the solenoid rule out its ground from being a problem?
Have you remedied the problem?
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Was anything else behaving unusually? Headlights, tach, brake lights, turn signals, horn, etc. Did you move the tank? Have you checked all the fuses?
No other symptoms other than the solid and strong battery light. I did not move the tank either. I didn't check the fuses because I couldn't think of a single fuse that could affect the neutral light/gear indicator and starter circuit
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Have you remedied the problem?
I haven't looked at the bike again yet. Trying to get a game plan...
Could you address my question about cleaning the starter and let me know if I'm missing something?
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...I didn't check the fuses because I couldn't think of a single fuse that could affect the neutral light/gear indicator and starter circuit
Fuse 1.
The load shed relay depends on the starter brushes for earth, but the starter earth is its case. Its good to check that the starter brushes aren't too short, so then clean them while in there.
But anyway, fuses are very quick and easy to check, and replace anyway, even if you think they're good, especially since you don't have the neutral light.
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Fuse 1.
The load shed relay depends on the starter brushes for earth, but the starter earth is its case. Its good to check that the starter brushes aren't too short, so then clean them while in there.
But anyway, fuses are very quick and easy to check, and replace anyway, even if you think they're good, especially since you don't have the neutral light.
112350 i'll get some time a little later this morning to work on it and let you guys know how it works out.
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Does the bike have heated grips?
Fuse #1 supplies them, and when it blows will light the Alternator idiot light. The right grip's heater has a tendency to rub on the end of the handlebar when the throttle is twisted and that wears away the insulation so it can short out to the bar. Had that happen a couple times on my K75RT before I figured out what was causing the problem.
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Does the bike have heated grips?
Fuse #1 supplies them, and when it blows will light the Alternator idiot light. The right grip's heater has a tendency to rub on the end of the handlebar when the throttle is twisted and that wears away the insulation so it can short out to the bar. Had that happen a couple times on my K75RT before I figured out what was causing the problem.
It does have heated grips. However, I ran them and the heated seat pad that I installed independent of the bike's stock wiring to an accessory fuse box I installed under the seat.
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Back to basics, dummy.
Fuse one was blown and there is a short somewhere as the replacement blew immediately. Let's try to track this down...
Think it could still be the starter?
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Since you don't have a neutral light, and fuse one blew, maybe you pinched a wire when you adjusted the handlebar.
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Since you don't have a neutral light, maybe you pinched a wire when you adjusted the handlebar.
Nothing appears pinched or broken, but fuse 1 does not blow with the ignition on if I have the right handlebar switch unplugged in the harness.
So it's got to be something related to the right handlebar switch, correct? I disassembled the switch and all connections within look fine.
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Solved:
(https://i.imgur.com/P9YqOBm.jpg)
I've been chasing a rear brake issue and the last time I attached the right side footrest bracket must have sandwiched the brake switch wires, shorting them out.
Cut out section and reattached the wires, problem solved.
I'm glad it was something simple and wasn't the bike's fault.
On the bright side, I got an opportunity to contact-clean the inside of the right handlebar switch and it's harness connection....so there's that.
Thanks for all your help everyone. I'll keep the starter in mind if I ever have any grounding issues in the future.
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I would seriously consider cleaning the starter and checking the brushes as a preemptive maintenance item. They can fail at an inopportune moment, like in the rain and an hour from home.
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I would seriously consider cleaning the starter and checking the brushes as a preemptive maintenance item. They can fail at an inopportune moment, like in the rain and an hour from home.
Thanks for the suggestion and wisdom. I just had the starter out a few weeks ago doing an input spline lube while getting the whole bike up and running, so i'm pretty sick of working on it for now. Cleaning the starter will be 1st on the list though when I feel like turning wrenches on it again.