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MOTOBRICK.COM => Welcome To Motobrick.Com => Topic started by: Jinman on June 28, 2020, 12:41:51 AM
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Hi guys, new here. I've never owned a motorcycle, but now I've got an itch to get on one. Was big into quads growing up, cars, etc. Do lots of wrenching on various old and new Mercedes cars, etc, so I will be doing all maintenance myself. Bike will totally be a "weekend deal" - I have plenty of other forms of transportation for daily use.
Anyways- I found a 1986 BMW K75 locally. 54,xxx miles. I went and looked at it today. Seller seemed super nice and up front about everything, he and his wife both ride older BMW bikes, this one was for her, but she can't comfortably fit on it, so, up for sale it went.
We took it for a quick spin (~20 minutes) and I didn't notice anything strange other than some slightly squeaky brakes when applying them. Engine was started cold, no smoke, good looking oil level, idled out smooth. Shifted through all gears fine.
Tires look decent tread wise, but looked a bit old. Probably would replace.
Fairings- decent. Minor scuffs and scrapes.
Paint- good, no fading, but again, small scuffs and scrapes
No visible fluid leaks, no funny smells.
He purchased from the second owner I believe. The first (and possibly second) owner kept extensive logs on maintenance- parts used, when, where, fuel stops, etc. It seems like all the original books and such come with the bike.
I am going to ask tomorrow about the spline lube- has it been done to his knowledge. Should have asked today.
He's asking $2750, willing to negotiate.
Let's say he goes for $2250, would you guys consider it a good buy? I know, a nearly impossible question to answer via a short post typed up by a stranger online, with only a few pictures to include.
You all know much, much more than I, and may be able to notice a red flag in the photos that I've missed. Very possible considering that 3 weeks ago, I had no clue what a BMW K75 was.
Thanks in advance, I'm sure I've left some details out
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More pictures
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looks like a K75c with some nice extras, Rifle fairing, "S" bellypan, Corbin and a Comfort (?) seats, later style bags. You might want to check the paperwork to see if the splines were lubed, (usually around 40K) but otherwise looks like a decent deal for 2700, even better if you can talk it down some. Speedometers on early Ks tended to be flakey so mileage is always suspect.
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^^^ what 'C' said
K75 'C' with add on K75 'S' belly-pan
looks like after-market Rifle fairing
'RT' long-horn handlebars
on the moto looks like a OE comfort seat, a look at the seat pan will verify, manufactured by 'Fehrer'
on the grass Corbin Dual Touring or Corbin Canyon plank
Generation 3 integral cases with the locks facing out-ward
add-on fork boots, gators, gaiters, covers (whatever you chose to call them) and OE tank pads
looks like a aftermarket shock possibly a Wilbers but it is difficult to see/say clearly.
need to verify with the owner 'is that a after-market or original shocky
You need to check the inside of the petrol tank for any corrosion in the lowest lobes right & left especially under the fuel pump mounting.
A corroded fuel sender unit will be a tell- tale if the moto sat for long period of time.
A fuel pump rubber damper sits under that plastic white ring securing the fuel pump and clips in-to place in the petrol tank fuel pump mount
A disintegrated rubber damper will make a bloody mess inside the petrol tank.
The bottom of the fuel pump should have a plastic pre-filter screen which also can turn into a wonky plastic ...
Need to inspect the rubber bushings/stubs under the throttle-body for age/cracking under that 'BMW' fuel injector cover
General inspect/verify what rubber parts have been changed ie. the Crankcase breather hose, fuel hoses internal & external, what else am I missing...
Looks like a very clean moto. Do to the age (it is 34 yrs old) and rear drum brake model, I think you are spot on for $2250
Good luck with your quest
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-280620012220-3253328.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-280620012210-3252333.jpeg)
a mounted flapper valve on the filler cap will limit internal tank viewing. A goose neck type flashlight will be most useful.
Many owners remove the flapper valve to get like 0.5 litre more in the tank. The negative is petrol can begin to bubble the paint around the filler cap when sloshing around.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-280620012158-32511199.jpeg)
OE Fehrer seat pan
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/5332-280620153801-3259960.jpeg)
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54,000 miles isn't too bad. If maintained, K75's can easily get to 200,000. Look under the seat for a sticker that would be put there if the speedometer was changed under warranty.
Depending on condition, the Corbin seat could be worth as much as $200.
Spline lube is important, failure of the splines can be an expensive repair. I have had 5 K bikes live in my garage, and all of them had brake squeak at low speeds. A little anti-squeal on the back of the pads will help.
+1 on checking the tank. Long term idleness with ethanol fuel in the tank dissolves rubber and allows water to collect and corrode the tank. Tires more than 4-5 years old should be replaced, especially if there is any cracking in the rubber. Check the rubber brake lines for cracking. Hold the line tightly and apply the brakes, does it expand? That may mean they need to be replaced.
C model bikes seem to be rare compared to the RT and S models, and usually command a higher price. $2750 doesn't sound too bad, $2250 would be a good price IMO, especially if the bike already had the rear shock replaced and there are no other issues.
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As has been observed, the rear shock doesn't look stock. It looks to me like a basic Progressive 416. The exhaust headers seem to have been painted which is something not seen often. It has a custom injector cover and the rear brake master cylinder reservoir is hidden under the battery cover which means it's a later model reservoir made of more durable material. The moto looks like it was appreciated by the previous owners who gave it these custom touches. I'd be surprised if the tank were not clean, too. That cap assembly is held on with only four screws. If the owner will remove it, take a look with a flashlight.
Bargaining points might be the tires and the fuel level sender. The tires are date-stamped so —as Gryph has indicated—f they're over five years old or have cracked sidewalls they should be replaced. If it has the old-style thermistor fuel level sender, that's a bargaining point. Those senders can be unreliable but they carry wiring to the fuel pump. If that sender fails entirely, cobbling something together will be necessary because replacements are rare in the marketplace. Look for a knob on the left underside of the tank with wires entering it This moto's year of manufacture is on the cusp of when the thermistor sender was replaced by the float style.
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Thanks everyone! Already know a lot more to look at next time I check it out.
Bringing someone with me today that has owned a few BMW bikes. Will look closer at the rubbers and such, and the fuel tank. So if I find the knob on the left underside of the tank as described, does that mean it has the newer float style or the older sender?
The exhaust headers are not painted, but they sure do look like it in that picture.
Brake hoses looked excellent. No cracking or dryness
All of the instruments were working 100% when I checked it out, but I suppose that doesn't mean much since I only rode around for <1/2 hr. I have a few older Mercedes cars that love to stop counting miles every so often
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and the rear brake master cylinder reservoir is hidden under the battery cover which means it's a later model reservoir made of more durable material....
Laitch, you've not fully recovered yet, have you? Mechanical drum, rear reservoir hidden not under battery cover but in future dimension. :laughing1:
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Laitch, you've not fully recovered yet, have you? Mechanical drum, rear reservoir hidden not under battery cover but in future dimension. :laughing1:
It must have seemed for a moment like my '59 English Ford woody station wagon but now I'm uncertain if that even had brakes. :laughing4-giggles: That would explain why I totaled it. After that, I got my draft notice.
I think the baby aspirin is killing me.
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Went and looked at it again today. Tank looks very clean, all hoses except this one look excellent. What is this, a crankcase vent hose? I'm taking a stab and saying it is given its location.
Shifter is slightly loose, but it shifts nicely up and down, clutch feels good.
Tires are 0507, so shot.
Going to try and use that, along with this badly cracked hose, plus the cosmetics to knock the price down a little
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Yes, crank case hose. Common problem, cheap and simple fix. Take $5 off the price for it....
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There should not be any noticeable slop in the shifter. Looseness indicates a grub screw in the transmission is starting to loosen up. You can ride it, but keep an eye on it. When the free play gets to be more than an inch at the end it's time to get ready to tighten it up and put some Loctite on it.
Doing the screw isn't that big of a job. A decent wrench can do it in a day, or take a weekend and do the clutch o-ring, lube the clutch splines and check the entire drive train.
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Sweet, that hose looks very easy to change
Glad I mentioned that then on the shifter. It's about an inch. That can be another bartering point.
I sure will be checking splines and such if/when I get it. Changing all fluids, etc. Start at zero. I always feel better doing that with 30+ year old stuff.
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It must have seemed for a moment like my '59 English Ford woody station wagon but now I'm uncertain if that even had brakes. :laughing4-giggles: That would explain why I totaled it. After that, I got my draft notice.
I think the baby aspirin is killing me.
Baby aspirin washed down with sour mash ... :thisplacewhack
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The good news on that grub screw is that it doesn't require any parts, just some gasket goo to seal it back up when you're done.
To give you an idea, I did the screw on my first K bike the first day I had it. I started on it at 10 in the morning and took the bike out for a test ride at 5 that afternoon. I did the splines, changed the transmission and final drive oil, greased the swingarm bearings, replaced the rear brake pads, and torqued & anti-seized everything that came apart.
My only tip is to have a skinny magnet handy to pull the screw out of the transmission when you drop it. I think I dropped mine three times before I got it started.
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Sent you a message.
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Went and made a final offer on the bike and they denied.
The hunt continues...
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Thanks again to all the help
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This - https://ibmwr.org/index.php/ibmwr-marketplace/show-ad/8993/1986-k75-c/brick-k-bikes-1983-2003-bikes-for-sale/ - isn't too far from you, in MS.
It has been listed several times, and slowly dropping in price. I'm torn on the paint job, kind of like it, kind of don't. Paint jobs aren't too much.
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I've been watching that paint job for over a year. I am a fan of the Pichler fairing. IMO it's one of, if not, the nicest looking fairing you can put on a K bike. Without that psychedelic paint job that would be a really good looking bike.
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Without that psychedelic paint job that would be a really good looking bike.
It might not be paint. Parts of it look like vinyl graphics that are releasing. It could be just peeled off.
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Went and made a final offer on the bike and they denied.
A final offer? How many offers did you make? If you offered $2250 on the basis of its needing a pair of tires (≤$300), a $10.00 hose and a day's labor on a grub screw, you might have overreached for a discount.
There is always more out there for the patient hunter.
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It might not be paint. Parts of it look like vinyl graphics that are releasing. It could be just peeled off.
An afternoon with a hair dryer resulting in a Dakar Yeller Brick.
That would be pretty sweet if it was true. You could be right, I don't know anyone who would spend the time required to mask that mess.
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Well.... It's mine!
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Congrats, a brick with a round headlight, your off to a good start.
Go on then, be a devil, tell us how much you got it for.
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Mountains rising up from the bayou. I've got to visit Louisiana again. I missed that during my last trip. It seems a little dry there this year. :laughing4-giggles:
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Haha! Well, one important thing I forgot to mention was that I'm actually working in Nevada at the moment, and found it local to me here. I live Louisiana during the "winter"
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Going into the service records some... The trans was apparently replaced in 2003 at 38,000 miles? And all ds/final drive/ etc splines were lubed and checked around that time
54k now, obviously one of the first things I'll do but, it's good to know the first owner did some good things, I suppose.
Bike was repainted in 2001, and looks good. I don't see any alarming signs of a repaint.
So far I'm very happy. My ~20 mile ride back was very nice other than the sun slapping me in the face
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Update your signature with the year and model but first, run the last seven digits of the moto's serial number through this VIN checker (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&arch=1).
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Sweet! Thank you. Just ran my vin.
So far so good, 50 miles in. Only one concern.
Ok, story time. I ended up getting the bike for less than I planned on paying in the first place because after I left empty handed, the owner accidentally knocked the bike over in the garage. Was backing his wife's bike out, and bumped into the K75. It laid over, broke a side mirror, and the turn signal. I already patched the turn signal back together, bent the reflector bowl out, put a new bulb in, and threaded it back on. I've found mirrors on the bay for pretty cheap. It also put a nice split in the windscreen. Didn't seem to do any other damage.
But today when I started it, it smoked pretty decently after sitting on it's sidestand (oil burning). Oil level is good, I'm reading a little more than halfway between the dot and top of the circle when on the center stand. 90% of it went away after riding for 5 minutes or so. Maybe it got some oil puked up in the airbox after it got tipped in the garage? I never saw the slightest bit of smoke before it got tipped. I know I had a quad before that would puke oil into the airbox following long wheelies, so you'd burn off some oil when coming back down. Just unsure of this platform, it's obviously very new to me.
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Chances are it was knocked onto its left side. That allowed oil to creep past the rings and collect in the combustion chamber until fuel combustion ignited it. Then it smoked. It will be burned off.
Some Bricks that are parked on their side stands will smoke for a moment or two until that oil is cleared out. It's nothing to worry about. It still loves you.
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congrats!
nice looking bike
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Good to know.
Just changed the oil earlier today, nice to see clear oil in the sight glass.
P.O. used a BMW filter so maybe that's a good sign
I had to work with what I had locally so I used a Mobil1 filter... Sticker removed of course
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Another question to all you professionals -
https://youtu.be/as7Qg9Uprho
Does this sound like a healthy brick to you guys? This is after about 30 miles/1 hr of riding. Sounds good to me, just wanted some confirmation.
Also I peeked in the fuel tank with the lid off. I see some spots were some sediment is built up and scattered in the low spots, but other than that, does it look pretty in line with a good condition k bike tank? I suppose one day in the near future I will syphon the fuel out and try to vacuum that junk out
Thanks in advance
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Vacuuming fuel tanks can be a bad idea. Fuel vapor can explode in vacuum cleaners ignited by sparks from the brushes. If you do go ahead can you video the attempt.
Regards Martin.
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Another question to all you professionals -
I peeked in the fuel tank with the lid off. I see some spots were some sediment is built up and scattered in the low spots, but other than that, does it look pretty in line with a good condition k bike tank? I suppose one day in the near future I will syphon the fuel out and try to vacuum that junk out
Having this reply in an Introduction is like introducing yourself to someone by saying, Hello, I'm Jinman. Let me show you the boils on my back. :laughing4-giggles: You can now start posting questions and other subjects in their appropriate category—Motobrick Workshop, Projects . . ., Ride Reports, What You Did . . ., etc.
Don't wait to clean that tank. Clean it with white vinegar and dry it.
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It sounds ok.
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Didn't think about that. I've heard of and seen pumping exhaust over into a bulk diesel tank before welding, but, that's also diesel and not gasoline.
I overlooked how small this tank is. A good shake with it off the bike should get most of that out
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I overlooked how small this tank is. A good shake with it off the bike should get most of that out
How small is the tank? Regardless, don't shake the tank with excess vigor because you might damage the fuel level sender.